StevenGuthmiller

My only question is, whatever happened to shows about actual "history" on the History channel. These stupid, so called "reality" shows have little to do with reality, and zero to do with history in almost every case. Almost every network on television is taking advantage of the fact that they can produce these idiotic reality shows for next to nothing when compared to the cost of producing programing that actual requires some innovation and thought, and every dunce on the planet will tune in to watch other dunces dysfunctional lives. It's the return of the brainless daytime talk show, like the Jerry Springer and Jenny Jones shows. Snack food for the vacuous mind. Steve

Thank you David! Steve

Thanks fellas! Steve, I've really began to focus a lot of my attention on interior upgrades in the past couple of years. The vast majority of these old kits have pretty scant interior detailing, and I've begun to find it very rewarding to try to get them a little closer to a modern kit detail level. Once you get past the fear of cutting up a vintage kit interior, it really starts becoming quite a fun experience! Steve

I am always more than happy to help in any way that I can. Good methods should be shared with every hobbyist. And believe me, these techniques are not my own. Nearly everything I have learned in my modeling career has been learned from someone else. My job is just to pass them along to anybody who wishes to know them. Steve

I appreciate that guys! I wasn't really sure how this build was going to turn out, or whether or not I was going to really like it when finished, but now, I'm seriously considering ditching the '68 Coronet build that I had planned, in favor of a '64 Pontiac Bonneville convertible that I have waiting in the wings! Steve

I likely won't be making too many alterations to this body, except for possibly the most glaring inconsistency, which strangely enough, Ed neglected to mention. This would be the crease, or ridge evident on the door panels just above the door handles. This doesn't exist on the 1:1 and needs to be removed. Other than that, the rest is close enough for me. Steve

That's just plain inexcusable!! This just puts the cherry on the sundae for me! Send me crappy recasts of the original parts that I sent you for replating and I'll personally drive to your house and stomp on your throat! You can count me out! Steve

Looks pretty good to me! In my opinion, this is really the only way to do small scripts and badges if you want them to look really nice. With many kits, especially vintage kits, there is not, and probably never will be, the option of using PE scripts and there's only so much you can do with paint, especially with the very small and delicate scripts. I use both methods on the same script with great results. I use the conical swabs first. This loosens the paint and takes it off of the high points. Then I come in with the sharpened tooth pick dipped in lacquer thinner to clean up the edges of the already loosened paint. This step will give you more "relief" around the perimeter of the script making it look more like it's sitting on top of the surface rather than embedded in the paint. The secret is to be very stingy with the lacquer thinner to prevent any "bleed" onto the other body surfaces. Take your time and repeat if necessary and you'll get great looking scripts every time. Also, the less paint that you need to remove from the script the better, so applying the foil just before the final color coat and removing it right after, will be the easiest approach requiring a lot less effort than trying to remove multiple coats of primer and paint. Once you get the hang of it, it's relatively easy to get nearly perfect results, even on the faintest and tiniest scripts. My latest attempt on the old AMT 1964 Pontiac Grand Prix had me a bit worried because it's so faint and small, but with caution it went just as well as any other script that I've attempted regardless of size. Another good tip is to detail any scripts containing color with a small brush after cleaning the paint off initially and then repeating the same technique for the added color. I then spray my clear coats on after this process to seal and protect the scripts and badges. Steve

I've used this method a few times for smaller items such as interior carpet protectors, but nothing as large as seat or door panel upholstery. I would imagine that it might work for tuck and roll, but you might have to apply more than one coat to the mold as the acrylic paint shrinks considerably when dry. It will be flexible when dry, but it can also be quite fragile and fairly easily cracked. Steve

Terrific Russ! Apparently, there was a model contest in past years at the Spud Valley Hobby Show, (Plastic on the Prairie) sponsored by the local IPMS chapter, (Red River Scale Modelers) but I have not been able to verify that anything of the like will be taking place this year. See what you can find out. I would be interested in making an appearance if I'm not the only guy who shows up with a few model cars! Steve

Yeah, I noticed that, but that's really not worth freaking out over IMO. Way too minuscule of a detail to justify messing around with it. I'll be far too focused on removing the convertible "well" detail and replicating the rear door panel trim to mess with something that inconsequential. Steve

I'm quite happy with the paint on my '64 Pontiac Grand Prix. Steve

Thank you Bart! I pretty much do all of my models the same now. They are all painted with automotive lacquers and polished using successively finer grits of "Micro-Mesh" polishing pads, usually starting at about 3600 and working my way down to the finest 12000 grit. I follow that with some Novus #2 "Fine Scratch Remover", followed by a little Turtle Wax "Scratch and Swirl Remover" to finish, both applied and polished with soft cotton cloth, usually just reclaimed T-shirt material. As a rule, I will give the entire model, including the glass and chrome, a quick once over with Novus #1 "Clean and Shine" near the end of construction. This helps remove and smudges or finger prints and also guards against dust accumulated from static electricity. Then it's into a display case as quickly as possible to keep it clean. Steve

Thank you for the kind comments Russell! I'm relatively new to the area, so I have never heard of the "Spud Valley Show". I would be interested in attending, and any information that you could provide would be welcome. I understand from a quick web search that it is apparently still a go for this October and it appears that it is primarily a model rail road show. Is there a model car contingent to the show? And if so, is it a display only affair, or is there some sort of contest? Just any information that you could share would be great! Could be a fun local diversion from an otherwise very depressing model show year. Thanks! Steve

Thank you so much folks! I was quite surprised to come home from an anniversary weekend with my wife and find so many kind responses on this thread! I appreciate every last one of them! Thank you!! Steve

I wasn't aware of any issue with the '68 Grille, Craig. I know the '69 was kind of a disaster, but as far as I can tell the '68 looks pretty good. I did drill out the head lights for replacing, but I thought the rest looked okay. Something I'm missing? Steve

Thanks all! Unfortunately for the Landy fans, you'll be disappointed. This will be another factory stock build. Steve

Are you sure that they're not the dog dish caps from The Revell '68 Charger? Steve

I do them as Roger and others have described. I started experimenting with the painted tape technique once some time ago, but abandoned it. I wasn't convinced that it would hold up indefinitely, and at least to my eye, the texture looked too heavy. The paint technique is relatively easy, gives a nice scale finish, and should last the life of the model without any worries of it peeling. Just a few that I've done recently. Steve

Makes everything else in life completely irrelevant! My thoughts are with you and yours. Steve

I was never much of a reader and I'm still not, but I remember being pretty into the some of the S.E. Hinton books in high school. "The Outsiders", "That Was Then, This Is Now", and "Rumble Fish" were the ones that I remember. Steve

Thank you so much guys! Your kind comments are greatly appreciated! I have no problem with that. All of my builds are for public consumption. I am. I would have most likely been disappointed with everything else turning out so well and knowing that the paint wasn't up to my standards. Steve

Very nicely done!! Steve

A Torino? Phhhh. Piece a cake! Steve

Sorry, I don't take requests. Steve