StevenGuthmiller

My biggest pet peeve doesn't bother a lot of people, but it's metallic paint that has metallic in it that is way too big, or far too heavy for 1/25th scale. In my opinion, the little things like mold lines in radiators or tires might not be immediately evident on a model, but there's no hiding "the bass boat syndrome". It's an instant turn off for me. Steve

Amazon. That's where I have bought mine in the past. I use the very thin stuff along with thin music type wire for telescopic antennas. Amazon has this variety pack of 12 inch long stainless steel hypodermic tubing for $20.00. Steve

My suggestions would be Testors "Wimbledon White", (a Ford color, but sort of a creamy ivory color) and Testors "Italian Red". In their lacquer line if you can still get them. I'm not certain if they're available. I haven't bought any Testors spray lacquer for quite some time. Steve

If you're talking about the stuff in the red tube, that's the stuff that I was talking about. The old tube cement is not particularly easy to work with in comparison to some other glues. The Testors tube cement is messy to work with and takes quite some time to set. A liquid cement works by capillary action. You can hold or clamp your parts together, apply a little if the liquid cement to the joint and it will seep between the parts and bond in the matter of a few seconds if the joint is tight. Of course, in my experience, Liquid cement works best on preliminary assemblies before paint. After painting, I prefer CA glue or epoxy. Steve

No I haven't, but I am nearly certain that one of the '65, '66, '67 Chevelle kits would be identical underneath. Steve

I suppose that there is likely the same kind of paint available here as well David, But I have had good luck just spraying paint from a distance to get a slightly textured finish. I really don't have space for any more paint variants in my shop anyway. Steve

I guess that clinches it. That is what I have found to be the case as well. Black it will be! Steve

Thanks Keith. I was confident on the engine color being a copper color. The air cleaner on the other hand, is only red if it is not the W-30 dual snorkel article. Those are a black base with a chrome lid. At least that is what all of the information I have found points to. Steve

Just a suggestion as you round up supplies. Get yourself some liquid cement such as Plastistruct "Plastic Weld". You can eliminate the "glue blob" issue, and this stuff will cement your parts together almost instantly. No waiting for glue to dry. It does require both surfaces to be bare plastic, but then again, so does regular model cement. Some other glues that you might want to investigate include some CA glue like "Plasti-Zap", a 2 part epoxy like JB Weld "Clear Weld" and possibly a UV setting glue like "Laser Bond". All of these are extremely useful in varying circumstances. Then of course, every modeler should have some Elmer's glue and possibly some clear parts glue like "Testors Clear Parts Cement" on hand. Just a few suggestions to help you get started on supplies. Steve

I'm not really seeing a heck of a lot wrong with it! Looks great to me! Steve

I focused my attention this afternoon on masking and spraying the fender stripes. This sort of operation is always a little nerve wracking for me as the last thing I want to do is ruin a very nice paint job. Getting everything straight and guarding against bleed under are my largest concerns. But, thanks to my trusty Tamiya tape and several very light coats of Duplicolor sandable black primer, everything came out as well, or even better than I had hoped. This is were it starts getting quite exciting for me! Now there will be several steps during the clear coating process. First a coat or two of clear, followed by foiling and detailing the emblems and marker lights. Then another coat or two of clear after which I will remove the masking on the engine bay area before applying the final coat of clear. Then I will be able to unmask the top for finishing, followed by plenty of polishing. Steve

Thanks everyone! Good information all around. The consensus seems to be that a brown top was unlikely on a '68 442, so I guess that means that I'll be choosing black. I like white tops, but not so much on a muscle car. In my opinion, a white top takes a little of the "tough" persona away. And being as the top will be black with a saddle interior, I believe a black fender stripe would also be the best option. Thanks all! Greatly appreciated! Steve

Terrific! I guess that I misunderstood your original post and was thinking that you were planning on the same color to finish. I do the same thing and will usually use a Duplicolor rattle can base coat, but for different reasons. I've found that a couple of light coats of a Duplicolor lacquer in a like color to the finish coat, will not only help create an impervious base for heavier finish coats of Scale Finishes or MCW paints, it will also save a great deal on those precious colors. Steve

The only thing thatI have been able to find so far is from this color chip chart. On the far left bottom of the sheet it lists "painted molding colors" and states that they are "matched" to vinyl top colors. Listed are parchment, dark teal, black, buckskin, medium gold and dark blue. No dark brown. If anyone has more definitive information, please let me know. Steve

Started watching it tonight. Very good! Steve

Looking good so far. My only suggestion would be to find a better silver paint. The heavy and large metallic particles in the paint you have started with is way over the top. Steve

Does anybody have any information as to what color options were available for a vinyl top on a 1968 Olds 442? I'm considering dark brown for my "Cinnamon Bronze" Olds, but I'm not certain if it was available. Any information would be greatly appreciated! Thanks! Steve

Thanks Keith. Since your recommendation, I'm seriously considering a dark brown top. I haven't yet been able to verify if it was an option in '68, but I'm looking into it. If I do the top in black, I feel like the stripe should also be black, but white would be a nice option if I use brown for the top. Steve

Thanks guys! The first coat of color is on and so far, I like it a lot! Steve

I finally am at the point where I can begin throwing some color around, and being as we are smack dab in the middle of a major snow storm here in west central Minnesota, it's a perfect opportunity to spend some time at the bench! I got the saddle color and a coat of clear on the interior parts, as well as some medium brown on the front half of the dash and rear package shelf. I also got some black shot on the engine bay area. That will get one coat of clear during the course of clear coating the body to give it more of a matte finish. The top will get masked off and painted later when all of the painting is done on the body. I still have not made a hard determination as to what color the top and fender stripe will be. White was a consideration, but being as I decided to go with a saddle interior, I think black would be more appropriate. Steve

I think you're on your way my friend. It sounds to me like you know exactly where you're heading and are definitely beginning with the right approach. Personally, I think one of the absolute best tools at your disposal is free, and one that you mentioned in your post. Putting your build in "on the work bench" will help immensely with your first foray back into the hobby. Cruise around the forum, look for information, and ask lots of questions during your build. You'll be surprised at what you can learn. Good luck Logan! Welcome, and I for one will be happy to help in any way that I possibly can! Steve

I didn't realize that this kit was that difficult to find. Guess it's a good thing that I got one when I did. It's a nice kit by the way. Steve

The only thing that I ever get to do for my wife that requires any sort of modeling skills is to use my lighted magnifier to thread needles and repair jewelry for her. Steve

All that I know is that in his website "FAQ" section, he states that his paints are "professional grade solvent based automotive paints". I assumed that meant that they were acrylic lacquers. I'm no chemist, but when I crack open a jar of Scale Finishes "base coat", it smells exactly the same as the MCW lacquers that I have. I have not used the "gloss enamels" that he offers, but I assume it is different from the "base coat" or he would not offer 2 different types of paint. His "base coats" also spray, level, dry and cure in exactly the same way as MCW. For this reason I assumed it was basically the same stuff. For my purposes, it is. I only differentiate between the "base coat" and "gloss enamel" because I have heard from reliable sources that the enamel has drying issues. Steve

Pretty cool! How come I never see any of these on I-94? Steve