Jump to content
Model Cars Magazine Forum
We have a major announcement about the forum, please read.

StevenGuthmiller

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    15,071

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by StevenGuthmiller

  1. StevenGuthmiller
    I was going to suggest painting the hood with white primer & then laying out the rays for the rising sun in red. White would be very easy to cover with light coats of red minimizing the "edges". Plus it would have given you a true rising sun flag look. Then a couple of clear coats to shine it up & help cover the edges between colors. Not sure if the "red, white & blue" color scheme would have been what you were looking for though. Anyway, I guess I'm a little late with paint suggestions at this point. Steve
  2. StevenGuthmiller
    You just missed it Mike! I just traded this '60 Olds kit to another member a few weeks ago. I had another that I already built. Sorry, no before pics of mine, but it was a glue bomb when I got it. Steve
  3. StevenGuthmiller
    Those are sweet Mike!! Especially the '59 Olds! Now you have me salivating to get going on mine. Not a glue bomb, but a very nice unpainted built kit. Steve
  4. StevenGuthmiller
    Perfect! In all reality, I'll bet that best describes most of our "build orders"! Steve
  5. StevenGuthmiller
    Nice Smelly! There's one that they don't just give away! Especially in that kind of condition! Steve
  6. StevenGuthmiller
    Being as there is not a lot of fine detail, I would just prime it & then shoot it with several fairly heavy coats of Testors gloss black enamel for your base. Everyone always talks about how enamel paints hide too much detail, well, this would be a good instance to make that work "for you". The enamel takes a long time to dry & will level well so it should fill in that "roughness" that you're talking about & give you a smooth shiney black finish. Exactly what you need for Alclad. Steve
  7. StevenGuthmiller
    Looks like whoever originally built it did a pretty decent job! Looks pretty good as is! Steve
  8. StevenGuthmiller
    I've had pretty good luck with members that I've dealt with on this forum. The ones that I'm a little leery about dealing with are people who just show up out of the blue looking for something. Once they get what they need, they kind of disappear until the next time they want something. All of the people I've dealt with here are "regulars" & you kind of get that "I know where you live" attitude with each other & tend to acknowledge each others efforts a bit more. Steve
  9. StevenGuthmiller
    Honey, I'm running to the liquor store to pick up a case of paint cups! Steve
  10. StevenGuthmiller
    Never followed the box art in my life. Probably never will. Steve
  11. StevenGuthmiller
    That's pretty wild! Did you make the "cow hide" yourself? I know "Scale Motorsports" makes some very cool upholstery decals in patterns like giraffe & elephant hide, as well as some stock patterns & "southwestern" blanket motifs. Wasn't sure if they had cow hide or not. Steve
  12. StevenGuthmiller
    Transmission would be a metal color of some sort. Aluminum is usually a good choice. The starter, (in the photo on the side of the block) would be black. You can use your imagination for things like the oil filter. They came in all sorts of colors. Steve
  13. StevenGuthmiller
    That's actually a very nice starting point. filling holes is not a huge problem, & having no paint is a giant advantage! Nice find. Steve
  14. StevenGuthmiller
    I start with the body, then interior, then engine & chassis. I figure why go through all of the work of building an engine chassis & interior if something unforeseen happens to the body or paint that prompts you to put it back into the box. Engines & chassis, as well as interiors are much more forgiving for me anyway. Mistakes are more easily dealt with than a body that winds up with major paint issues, or the like, after you've already finished everything else. My bodies are sitting painted, polished, foiled & at least partially detailed before I even start anything else. Steve
  15. StevenGuthmiller
    I've done quite a few, but didn't think to take a lot of "before" pictures. Here are a few though. As you can see, most of these are not what I would call "true" glue bombs. I'm extremely careful when I buy built kits to make sure I'm getting a good canvas to start with. I don't need any basket cases to spend months & months trying to salvage. I have enough "good" kits to build as it is! Steve
  16. StevenGuthmiller
    I mix my own engine colors all the time, but I airbrush them. You can buy little paint cups in the craft paint department of Hobby Lobby for mixing & storing very small amounts of paint for brush painting. They hold 1/5th oz. & cost about $2.00 for I believe a dozen of them. When I'm done using them, I just toss them out. Steve
  17. StevenGuthmiller
    Here's my '62 Bonneville. Not really a muscle car or all that rare, but it is in absolute mint condition. Steve
  18. StevenGuthmiller
    I'd go this way all day long! But then again, I've always loved this combo in almost any car! Steve
  19. StevenGuthmiller
    Boy, you must have done some diggin' to find this one! 2009! She is a beauty though! Steve
  20. StevenGuthmiller
    That's why I like your style Bill! The rarer mint kits that I have waiting right now are a '65 Plymouth Fury, '66 Plymouth Fury convertible, '67 Plymouth Fury, '67 Ford Galaxie, '66 Pontiac Bonneville, '62 Pontiac Bonneville, '67 Chrysler 300 & a '60 Chrysler Imperial, as well as few less rare Johan "USA Oldies" kits. All of them will be built. Steve
  21. StevenGuthmiller
    Thanks guys! Of all of the old annual "tub" type interiors I've done, this was my favorite. Steve
  22. StevenGuthmiller
    Just about any good hobby shop will carry it James. If you're like me & no longer have access to a hobby shop, almost any "on line" hobby shop will have it. I buy most of mine from "modelroundup.com" but there are endless options there. Or, you can always order directly from the source. Do yourself a favor though James. Get the original, or "new improved" foil for chrome. Stay away from the "ultra bright" chrome. Steve http://www.modelroundup.com http://www.bare-metal.com
  23. StevenGuthmiller
    I didn't necessarily suggest "modifying" anything Mark. I'm just curious as to whether or not anyone who has an old MIB kit has actually built it. I bought this '61 Fury kit a few years ago. It was perfect in every way. The only thing I did to it was have the chrome parts re-plated & add a set of after market tires. I didn't even paint it. Just polished out the plastic. Not a muscle car by any stretch, but it was a very rare MIB kit. Steve
  24. StevenGuthmiller
    Instead of just listing them, maybe we should see them. How about it? Anybody have the intestinal fortitude to destroy the future value of one of these "pristine" kits that Ace originally spoke of & build it? I've built one & have a few others in the wings waiting, but none of them would most likely be considered "muscle cars". Steve
  25. StevenGuthmiller
    You could always try masking with BMF. Works great for those curved areas that are too "tight" to mask with tape. Yes, you surely can paint over the white with another color. I painted this '61 Buick interior by starting with white. I then masked off the seat inserts & spray painted the overall turquoise. Then I came back, re-masked the white area, & started to lay down the stripes with strips of tape & progressively darker shades of turquoise. It's all labor intensive, but with patience, it will give you a nice result. By the way, I masked the curved corners of the seat inserts with BMF. Steve
×
×
  • Create New...