StevenGuthmiller

Depending on what you're looking for, you could paint the "flange" area on the body black. Steve

I'll have to give this a try. There always seems to be a little spot here & there that could use it. Up until now, I've been fixing all of my imperfections with foil. Steve

Looks like a nice start Ron! Steve

Thank you very much Mike! Steve

There are a few guys from the central & Northern part of my state, but I've yet to see anyone posting on this forum from South East Minnesota. But hey, you never know! Steve

For the most part, I would agree with you Steve. But there are a few cars that I think look nice with skirts even though there is a "flare". Late 50s Chevies come to mind. Steve

Thank you guys! I agree Frank. Unfortunately, I can only handle one hobby at a time! Photography is not very high on my list for a second one. I guess I'll just make due with what I can handle. Steve

I hear ya Bill! Honestly Bill, I'm not really nuts about the look of the stainless skirts either. I just thought it might separate it a little from all of the other '62 Fords. I am still leaning that way Richard. Sometimes you have to go against the grain a little & be different. I agree under some circumstances Kevin. But there are a lot of cars that look just "wrong" without them. A lot of cars had them integrated right into the body design. Picture almost any '60s Cadillac without them. Steve

Thanks John. I'm thinking the '57 dagmars are probably way too big. By the time I whittled them down to size, I could probably scratch make one & resin cast it. Problem is, I'd have to do 2. Front & rear. Most likely I'll just skip the bumper guards. They're not that important to me & would probably be a lot of work. Steve

Thank you Andy! Steve

"Model Car World". Check them out! Steve http://mcwautomotivefinishes.com

Thanks for the input guys. I'll have to think about it. I'm pretty sure I wouldn't like a painted skirt on this one Charlie. Mainly because of the fact that there is a chrome wheel well molding. The chrome strip running between the fender & skirt would look a little odd in my opinion. I think it will be either stainless, or nothing. Steve

They are surely not everyone's cup of tea. Steve

That's the main thing I like about MCW paint. The metallic is in scale. Yes, it's an automotive lacquer ready to use for airbrushing. Steve

I got to thinking about it, & I remembered that my friend's dad's car had a set of what I assume were stainless steel skirts on it. I'm usually not a huge skirt guy, but for some reason I do like the look on the '62 Ford convertible. I just happened to remember that I had a set of skirts from a '61 Chrysler New Yorker laying around & discovered that with a minimal shave, they fit perfectly What do you guys think? Unfortunately, the chrome is not in great shape, so they'll have to be foiled or painted with Alclad. I'm also trying to think of something close that could be easily fashioned into a set of bumper guards. Any ideas? I figure, why not give this one the "full dress" treatment. Steve

Actually Tom, I don't even know any other modelers in my area. I'm sure they exist, but I don't know any of them. I guess at some point, I'll just have to make my own. Steve

Ah!.....But then it wouldn't be a bubble top! If it were a convertible, it wouldn't have had the stripes on the seat inserts. Many hardtops had cloth seat upholstery. Convertibles always had vinyl or leather seats for obvious "moisture" reasons. This particular pattern was exclusive to the Invicta hardtop in '61. The inserts would have been a solid color surrounded by the white stripe in the convertible. Thank you Curtis! Steve

I've heard of guys doing that but never tried it. Thought it might come in handy for things like copying a script from a body panel to something like a continental kit. I will need to give it a shot sometime. I think in your case Jon, I would just use the "foil under paint" technique & then at the very end of the build just color your foiled scripts with red & black Sharpies. Just make sure you do it at the end. You don't want to clear coat over Sharpie marker. It'll bleed on you. Steve

Thanks Guys! I'll be sticking with the stock wheel covers on this one John. Not really sure if this one would fit into the high performance category anyway. It's not an XL model & it has the 390 badge on the side, so no 406 here. Now, whether or not the tri-carb 390 would have boosted it up into that category or not......well, I'm no expert. Interestingly, a good friend of mine's father had a '62 XL hardtop with the tri-power 390, but I have no idea what it had for original wheel covers. His dad immediately discarded them right after he bought it in '62 in favor of a set of American mags. Steve

Thanks Pacen! It's MCW 1969 GM "Azure Turquoise". Same color my 1:1 '69 Grand Prix is. Called "Crystal Turquoise" in the Pontiac line. Steve

Thanks Marty! It's a Cool Pix 100 if that tells you anything. Thank you Mike! Thanks Tom! Yeah, I keep telling myself that I have to put together at least some sort of "backdrop" for taking pics. Unfortunately, it eats into my build time, & that I can not abide! Steve

If you're planning on primer, paint & clear, I'm not sure you're going to have any luck saving the detail that's already there on the scripts. Probably going to be too many coats to be able to mask it and have it turn out. You'll most likely end up with a groove around everything you mask because of the thickness of the paint. And that quite possibly may be the best case scenario. Chances are you may have to suck it up & re-detail them after paint. Unless anyone else has an idea. Steve

The closest I've come to baking paint is setting freshly painted parts in front of my gas fireplace for a while in the winter time. Works great for some things, but even that can have it's problems. Never, ever put any heat to anything that has masking tape on it for any significant time. Not unless you want the tape permanently fused to the part! Steve

Thanks Frank, but I don't think I can adjust any of that on my camera. All I have is a 15 year old Nikon "Cool Pix". Steve

Depends on how much "body" you're painting. If you're doing a curbside type build where you're only painting the body surfaces, paint usage is minimal. If you're painting the underside of the hood, the engine bay, maybe the dashboard & steering wheel etc, you'll use much more. You also have to take into consideration how many coats you'll be using. On a typical stock build, with the body, hood, firewall & possibly the dash & steering wheel, I usually use about half of a one ounce jar...... airbrushing of course. That allows for about 3 fairly light color coats for everything. Steve