StevenGuthmiller

Many times, when sanding metallic paints, you will actually begin to "smear" the metallic in the paint, ruining it's appearance. If you sand through the clear into the color coats, chances are you'll wind up with this problem. As Bill said, I would go as lightly as possible to avoid sanding through. A couple of more coats of clear may help level some of the remaining orange peel. Although, it sounds as if your clear may be a problem. Steve

This is one of my favorites in my collection. Nothing too fancy. No PE parts or a bunch of scratch building. Just a little detailing on a 50 year old kit engine. Steve

This car looks very nice in red! Honestly, I don't recall ever seeing a Roadrunner of this vintage in person in a bright red. Must not have been a hugely popular color in '68-'69. I seem to see a lot of green ones. Steve

It's funny, I see a lot of guys seem to have trouble with animals & models. I've had a myriad of pets over the years & have never had a dog or cat show the slightest interest in my hobby.........sort of like the rest of my family! I do keep my shop door closed though to keep out our current cat who sheds heavily! I don't need her hair in my paint jobs!! Steve

Depends on how old the kit is. The newer kits, like the '53 Ford "Vicky", the '61 Impala & the '64 Plymouth are every bit as good as the other companies offerings. They also did kits like the '67 Olds 442 & the '66 Chevelle SS. Older kits?........Your guess is as good as mine. Steve

Looking good Michael! Looks like you got the color on nicely. Now I would just avoid sanding the color coats & go directly to your clear coats. After a few coats of clear, you can polish out any orange peel then. Steve

I hold the sprue close to the base of the flame where there's little chance of getting too much soot. My biggest issue was with the sprue catching fire before it was melted enough to mold. I'm also toying with the idea of placing the silicon mold in the oven with a small piece of clear plastic in each mold & see what happens. Steve

I was thinking the same. probably 1960 for me. Especially for GM. Ford & Mopar were a little on the funky side that year, but the GM cars were beautiful. I've always been very partial to the '61s myself. I even liked the far out styling of the Chrysler cars that year. But then again, I have what most would probably consider strange taste in cars. Steve

Thanks Charlie! I've pretty much decided on the stripe being Chestnut. I thought about doing the outer wheel in Chestnut too, but the kit wheels don't have very good rim detail. I'm not sure I want to draw attention to them. Steve

It is a very nice kit Bruce. Although, when I built mine, there were a few "fit" issues. Most notably, the rear bumper fits like BLAH_BLAH_BLAH_BLAH! Very nice job Bruce! Steve

My '67 Chrysler 300 did.......because I put them there! I guess they were red, not orange. Steve

Thanks guys! As some others on this forum have mentioned, I do my builds like each component is an individual model. That explains why the interior & body are nearly finished & the engine & chassis have not even been started. Plus I always hate to think of putting a bunch of work into an engine, chassis & interior only to have issues with a body that ultimately make me set it aside. That & the fact that I really have no love for building engines! But, I hope to get going on those "mundane" tasks soon. I would really like to have the body & interior finished sometime this week. Steve

Shouldn't be too hard to mix your own if not. Grabber Blue is just a non metallic bright medium blue. Should be relatively simple to get a very close match. Steve

Horrible! I'd be lucky to get 10%! Steve

I got a 96% on the first one. The '52, '54 Mercurys got me. Got a 98% on the tail fin one. I'm not exactly sure which one I got wrong, but I think it was a "clicking" error. I knew them all so I must have flubbed some other way. Steve

For scripts & small pieces like door locks, I use the "foil under paint" technique. That's how the scripts on the rear fenders & the badges on the front quarters were done. The badge on the hood was done after paint, but before clear to seal in the colors in the badge. The rest of the trim I leave until all of the paint & clear are finished. Steve

Been making a little progress on the foiling, so I thought it was finally appropriate to post a couple of photos of the body. I do like the look of a black paint job, but I sure hate working with it! Steve

Welcome Jonathan! As far as parts go, google is your friend. Just start looking around. There's a ton of aftermarket suppliers out there. Steve

Welcome Brian! Steve

I love it! The only Mustangs I ever really liked. '67 & '68 fast backs. Steve

One at a time for me. I've found that working on more than one at a time gets too confusing & I never seem to get anything done. If I feel like I'm not getting anything accomplished, I loose interest & start sitting on my butt. Steve

Ditto. Any basic dish washing detergent will do the trick. Just stay away from the stuff with the "skin softeners" in it. Steve

Especially if you're new to the process. BMF will be a much better "spring board" than just jumping into the "deep end" of using kitchen foil. You can always move on to that later if you feel the need. Steve

Welcome Boie! Old and American, just like me.......Perfect!! Steve

Does anybody have information on what colors were available for a 1962 Ford Galaxie convertible top? I saw a photo of a '62 Sunliner with a Chestnut color top & was wondering if it was an actual option, or if it was just an after market thing. Steve