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StevenGuthmiller

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Everything posted by StevenGuthmiller

  1. It's funny, I see a lot of guys seem to have trouble with animals & models. I've had a myriad of pets over the years & have never had a dog or cat show the slightest interest in my hobby.........sort of like the rest of my family! I do keep my shop door closed though to keep out our current cat who sheds heavily! I don't need her hair in my paint jobs!! Steve
  2. Depends on how old the kit is. The newer kits, like the '53 Ford "Vicky", the '61 Impala & the '64 Plymouth are every bit as good as the other companies offerings. They also did kits like the '67 Olds 442 & the '66 Chevelle SS. Older kits?........Your guess is as good as mine. Steve
  3. Looking good Michael! Looks like you got the color on nicely. Now I would just avoid sanding the color coats & go directly to your clear coats. After a few coats of clear, you can polish out any orange peel then. Steve
  4. I hold the sprue close to the base of the flame where there's little chance of getting too much soot. My biggest issue was with the sprue catching fire before it was melted enough to mold. I'm also toying with the idea of placing the silicon mold in the oven with a small piece of clear plastic in each mold & see what happens. Steve
  5. I was thinking the same. probably 1960 for me. Especially for GM. Ford & Mopar were a little on the funky side that year, but the GM cars were beautiful. I've always been very partial to the '61s myself. I even liked the far out styling of the Chrysler cars that year. But then again, I have what most would probably consider strange taste in cars. Steve
  6. Thanks Charlie! I've pretty much decided on the stripe being Chestnut. I thought about doing the outer wheel in Chestnut too, but the kit wheels don't have very good rim detail. I'm not sure I want to draw attention to them. Steve
  7. It is a very nice kit Bruce. Although, when I built mine, there were a few "fit" issues. Most notably, the rear bumper fits like BLAH_BLAH_BLAH_BLAH! Very nice job Bruce! Steve
  8. My '67 Chrysler 300 did.......because I put them there! I guess they were red, not orange. Steve
  9. Thanks guys! As some others on this forum have mentioned, I do my builds like each component is an individual model. That explains why the interior & body are nearly finished & the engine & chassis have not even been started. Plus I always hate to think of putting a bunch of work into an engine, chassis & interior only to have issues with a body that ultimately make me set it aside. That & the fact that I really have no love for building engines! But, I hope to get going on those "mundane" tasks soon. I would really like to have the body & interior finished sometime this week. Steve
  10. Shouldn't be too hard to mix your own if not. Grabber Blue is just a non metallic bright medium blue. Should be relatively simple to get a very close match. Steve
  11. Horrible! I'd be lucky to get 10%! Steve
  12. I got a 96% on the first one. The '52, '54 Mercurys got me. Got a 98% on the tail fin one. I'm not exactly sure which one I got wrong, but I think it was a "clicking" error. I knew them all so I must have flubbed some other way. Steve
  13. For scripts & small pieces like door locks, I use the "foil under paint" technique. That's how the scripts on the rear fenders & the badges on the front quarters were done. The badge on the hood was done after paint, but before clear to seal in the colors in the badge. The rest of the trim I leave until all of the paint & clear are finished. Steve
  14. Been making a little progress on the foiling, so I thought it was finally appropriate to post a couple of photos of the body. I do like the look of a black paint job, but I sure hate working with it! Steve
  15. Welcome Jonathan! As far as parts go, google is your friend. Just start looking around. There's a ton of aftermarket suppliers out there. Steve
  16. Welcome Brian! Steve
  17. I love it! The only Mustangs I ever really liked. '67 & '68 fast backs. Steve
  18. One at a time for me. I've found that working on more than one at a time gets too confusing & I never seem to get anything done. If I feel like I'm not getting anything accomplished, I loose interest & start sitting on my butt. Steve
  19. Ditto. Any basic dish washing detergent will do the trick. Just stay away from the stuff with the "skin softeners" in it. Steve
  20. Especially if you're new to the process. BMF will be a much better "spring board" than just jumping into the "deep end" of using kitchen foil. You can always move on to that later if you feel the need. Steve
  21. Welcome Boie! Old and American, just like me.......Perfect!! Steve
  22. Does anybody have information on what colors were available for a 1962 Ford Galaxie convertible top? I saw a photo of a '62 Sunliner with a Chestnut color top & was wondering if it was an actual option, or if it was just an after market thing. Steve
  23. I love those Mopar "High Impact" color names! Dodge had "Sublime", "Go-Mango", & of course, "Plum Crazy". Plymouth used names like "Vitamin C" & "Lemon Twist", & the purple was "In Violet". I read something once where Chrysler had toyed with the name "Statutory Grape" for the purple, but as you could guess, better judgement prevailed. Steve
  24. Unfortunately, Mercury was extremely boring with their interiors at this time & most every convertible I've ever seen had a "monochromatic" interior. I did a 2-tone on mine when I built it. One solid color just doesn't cut it on these late 50s cars! Steve
  25. According to paint charts I've seen, the code for this bright yellow was "Y-1", also known as "Top Banana". The only other yellow in '72 was a pale yellow, "Y-2", called "Yellow". Steve
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