StevenGuthmiller

Thanks Gabriel! I've had this color in my arsenal for a long time & have just been waiting for the right project to try it on. I'm glad I picked this one! I really like it too. Steve

Thanks Custom Mike. I have absolutely no experience with urethanes & I really don't have any interest in getting into mixing paints, but I do thank you for the suggestion. I just like to keep things as simple as possible. Maybe some time in the future I'll try giving something like you suggest a shot. Steve

Nice work Richard! White is one of those colors I always fall back on. It looks good on everything. Especially cars from the 50s. Never really liked dark colors on 50s cars. Steve

Close but no cigar Chris, but thank you for helping. If I can't come up with originals, Modelhaus has them. Steve

Very nice Rob! Although I will say it makes my heart ache a little not to see a beautiful, shiny 300! But when it's done this well.......what can I say! Looks terrific! Steve

I'm no big fan of wagons, but that's quite a transformation Grzegorz! Excellent work!! Steve

24 hours in Super Clean. Steve

Didn't get this today. Just wanted to show what a 24 hour bath in Super Clean can do. I was a bit concerned about removing this paint, but the purple stuff came through again!

But, would the liquid mask act in the same way as the tape or foil & pull up the Metallizer? It takes very little "tackiness" to mess it up. If I would have been using Alclad at the time, I surely would have used that instead. Problem solved! Steve

Those old 60s Buicks were sure some boats! Nice one Tommy! Steve

The only problem is, if you have any trim around your aluminum panel that requires foiling, the foil will do the same thing as the tape. I used metallizer on a '61 Plymouth & it turned out fine, but I had to cut my foil with a straight edge & carefully lay it on so as not to have any overlap onto the metallizer. Luckily it was all straight pieces of trim! Steve

I use acrylic craft paint. Ceramcoat to be exact. It's water based so you never have to worry about ruining your chrome. Just paint it over your entire grille, let it dry to the touch & then just wipe it off of the high points with a lightly dampened cloth. I usually just let it dry for a half hour & then just rub it off of the grille bars with a tooth pick. Easiest method I've found. I use the same method for door & trunk panel lines, wheels, cowl vents, etc. Here's a couple of examples. Steve

I used to use Testors Metalizers for this sort of thing & I always liked the look of it. My only problem is, the Metalizer sealer destroys the "metal" affect IMO & if you don't seal it, don't even try to mask over it for any reason. The tape will pull half of the surface finish off leaving a mottled look that can't be rubbed back out. Steve

I've had much better luck using Alclad aluminum paint for this sort of application. To me there's not enough difference in appearance between the matte aluminum BMF & the regular. Steve

Picked this '67 Bonneville up on ebay today for $50.00. Seems to be in great condition although it does have one of those "flat" paint jobs that can sometimes be problematic to remove. Only thing missing is the drivers seat. Anybody happen to have one? Steve

Sorry to tell you Steve, but the black chrome & matte aluminum BMF are basically no better than the Ultra Bright! Their too thick, don't stick well & are just generally hard to work with. Keep in mind also that the black finish on the black & the gold on the gold are just a coating over the foil. Any hard rubbing or any kind of solvent will take that finish right off. Steve

That would be your problem. BMF does have a shelf life. I never have that problem. I usually use up a sheet about every three months or so. One thing I've heard is to store it in your freezer if you don't use too much of it. Don't know if that works or not. Never tried it myself. steve

Would work perfectly with a yellow paint job! Steve

It is nice! What is the color? Is it the correct "Gauguin Red"? Looks pretty close. I've always loved that color! Sort of a very bright coral. Steve

I usually don't get a whole lot either, & yes, it can just be rubbed off, but sometimes it takes a little elbow grease. The more you burnish the foil, the more the adhesive gets "spread" around. The WD is just an easy & safe way, (for the finish) to get it taken off quickly. Steve

That makes sense. I've found, at least with automotive lacquer, that the super clean has little to no affect on the paint itself. It dissolves the primer & the paint comes off in sheets. So breaking the surface would help get the ball rolling I would think. Steve

Ah!! I thought I was the only one who used WD40 for that purpose! I mentioned that in a different thread some time back & got flack for it because it will cause paint adhesion problems if you get it on a surface yet to be painted. I just squirt a little in a jar & keep it around for this purpose. A little bit on a Q-tip will take that residue right off. Just don't plan on painting over it & don't go spraying it around your shop like room deodorizer. Steve

Which type are you using Allen? the "Ultra Bright" stuff is really hard to work with IMO. I use mainly the original stuff, now called "New Improved". I cannot think of a time when I've ever had adhesion problems. as a matter of fact, I have more problems getting it back off if I have to remove a piece. Steve

Absolutely nothing about it intimidates me! As a matter of fact, it's become one of my favorite processes in building. I guess I've gained enough experience with it over the years that it's just become routine. In my opinion nothing "transforms" the look of the model more than a good BMF job. I will admit, it can be tedious & time consuming, but the transformation from before to after is amazing to me. I would rather not build than be without it! Steve

Thanks Richard. Can't quite put my finger on it, but it seems there's a hint of purple or something in there that makes it unique. Steve