StevenGuthmiller

Some more progress on the Bonneville. I believe that I've pretty much finished up the firewall. Got the wiring finished up on the engine. And finished up the 3 piece removable air cleaner. Getting very close to finishing up the engine, and moving on to the chassis. Steve

If you happen to have any automotive polish sitting in your garage, try some of that. I use Turtle Wax “Scratch and Swirl Romover” as my finishing step when polishing bodies. It gives me a very brilliant, reflective finish. Steve

I’m not buying it. I’m not familiar with these clears either, but if they’re taking that long to cure, there’s no question that I’d be looking for a different clear. As far as how long it takes lacquer to “cure”, I can’t tell you any of the science behind it, but I can tell you that the clear lacquer that I use, (Duplicolor) dries enough to be handled within a couple of hours, and is fully ready for cutting and polishing within a few days, to one week. I can attest to this fact because I do it on every build. I don’t own a dehydrator, and at this point, at least for me, I really have no reason to buy one. Steve

Probably no need to sand if it’s just residue. The polish should be all that’s needed. just apply it as you you would polish to your car. If one application doesn’t do it, hit it a second time with a little more muscle. Steve

I must have missed this thread. looks like a great idea to play around with! Steve

My guess is that this has little to do with water streaks, and is more likely diluted glue smeared on the surface as Bainford said. Any fine abrasive polishing compound should restore the finish. If it were mine, I would give it a quick once over with Novus 2 “Fine Scratch Remover”, but that’s just what I happen to have on hand. Any fine polishing compound should work. Steve

You can use WD-40 to take off BMF or tape residue. Takes it right off in seconds, and it won’t harm your paint, regardless of the type. Contrary to the fears, soapy water will remove any residual WD left if you’re worried about it. Don’t know what WD will do to Molotow, but knowing how fragile it is, and knowing that it’s ink, and not paint, chances are it will remove it to some extent as well. Steve

I’ve been using this technique, or something similar for many years now. Usually I just drill them out completely and replace the buckets entirely, but at any rate, it’s become standard practice for me on any project that requires it, and I believe it’s a relatively common modification within our hobby. If I may suggest as well, if you plan on sending out your parts for re-plating, it’s advantageous to complete this modification before doing so, (up until the clear lenses of course) ? Oh, by the way, the ‘63 Bonneville pictured above also utilized resin cast lenses. These can be made pretty easily with some mold putty for creating a mold, and then casting with either clear resin, clear 2-part epoxy, or one of the UV light setting glues like Laser Bond or Bondic. Steve

Correct, and I have used those wheels on other builds, but the OP’s question was what we’d like to see in a parts pack. You can never have enough Kelsey Hayes wires if you build a lot of 50s and early 60s Mopars. ? Steve

I really had good intentions of trying this technique on my current project, but like a stubborn old mule, I reverted back to old habits and made a couple out of styrene sheet. Steve

I had to contact then several years ago to ask for a replacement body for a '61 Ventura with a crushed roof. If I remember correctly, everything went smoothly. Of course, they're only going to replace them if you show them proof that they're defective in some fashion. Steve

You know, it’s funny, but a lot of early AMT/SMP kits had custom option hubcaps that closely resembled the lancer wheels. Pegasus also makes a very nice 4 bar spinner wheel that’s also close to lancer wheels. Steve

Wow! Talk about unexpected! Just another example of why we should all live our lives like today could be our last. Roger was a truly talented builder, and his presence will be missed greatly on this forum. I for one was always interested in, and following along with whatever project he was working on. I would have never guessed in a million years that something like this was coming, especially at such an early age. Being 4 years older than Roger, it really gets you thinking about your own mortality. Rest in peace Roger. We’re really going to miss you around here! Steve

I have no doubt that you like your technique. I just objected to the “much, much better” exclamation. As I said, there are many different ways to achieve your objective, and do it well. Everybody has different experiences. “Much, much better” is pretty subjective. Steve

The only issue that I have with these is the size. Fine for full sized cars, even though they can appear a little too large in diameter even then, but they can certainly look too large for intermediate cars where a 14 inch wheel would have been the standard. As Steve Andrews stated, "Modehaus Tires" has some that are probably a little better in the size department. I just love the old Satco tires for wide whites! They are a perfect diameter for most larger cars, and the whitewall insert is molded in such a way that it has a recess around the bead that the wheel can settle down into, eliminating the obligatory "wheel sticking out further than the tire" phenomenon. Modelhaus makes a narrow whitewall adaptation of the Satco tire that looks like it would be a good option, but I have never had a set for inspection. By the way, they also carry a red line version of the Satco tires as well. Steve

I guess that you could say that I use a "damp" sanding approach. Like the OP, I don't feel like I can adequately see my progress as I sand with wet sanding, so I'll generally start with a lightly damp sanding pad, (I use Micro-Mesh pads) and then throughout the sanding process, I'll periodically wipe the pad on a cloth, followed by swiping the portion of the pad that I'm using over my tongue to keep it lightly damp. Probably not the most hygienic method, but it works well for me. I do agree that wet sanding will preserve your sand paper longer, but the pads that I use seem to wear about the same no matter if they're wet or dry, so I prefer them "almost" dry. I seem to get pretty good results. Steve

That's a subjective statement. White glue will give you perfect results if you do it right. I'll give you that there's more than one way to skin a cat, but that doesn't necessarily equate with "better". Steve

These are from the Moebius '65 Plymouth and Mercury kits. Model Roundup used to sell sets of them, but I don't believe that they carry them anymore. Now I guess you'd have to steal them from the kits. Great looking and nicely sized tires. Too bad they're not available anymore. Steve

Thanks fellas! Continuing on with some of the fine engine details. So far today, I've added the throttle cable and return spring, as well as a temperature sending unit on the intake. Working on fuel lines now. Steve

I agree. part of the success of the method for me is the contrast in color between the blue painters tape and the foil and blade, making it easier to see your knife position more easily in relation to the edge of the trim. Steve

M.A.D. (Morgan Automotive Detail) makes some of the absolute best pre-wired distributors available. With separate wired caps, bases, and boot material, they come in all variations of cap and wire colors. Beautiful stuff! Steve

I concur. Steve

Steve

I just use cheap acrylic craft paint for a grimy or oily wash for engine and chassis detailing. No worries about what’s compatible with what. Just mix the color you want and thin it with water. You can use it over anything, whether it’s lacquer, enamel, or whatever, and it’s cheap, easy, and no mess. Steve

If it’s not a metallic color, you probably don’t even have to re-coat. Just sand out the dust with very fine sand paper and polish. That is of course unless you need more color, in which case, a light sanding, followed by another coat of paint. Steve