StevenGuthmiller

I couldn't tell you for sure if or not it will seal out colored plastic, but this is my go-to primer for every project. I use it all of the time, and yes, it sprays on very smooth. Steve

Parchment and white was a pretty common combination on 60s Pontiacs. I have a 1:1 1969 Pontiac Grand Prix in "Crystal Turquoise" with a Parchment interior. I'm not sure about the '66, but in '69, Parchment was a pearl, slightly off white color, and the general combination for most Pontiacs was parchment on the seats and door panels, with a black dash, steering wheel, carpet and console. Sun visors and head liner matched the seats. Steve

My favorite spinach salad with bacon, blue cheese, red onion, sunflower seeds and a homemade Asian sesame dressing. And “Tequila Shrimp”, with shallots, garlic, tomato, white wine, tequila, cilantro and cream, served with buttered white rice. Steve

Can you flip the tires and use the other side? Steve

This just occurred to me. Can you imagine what would happen with this thing in a roll over? Steve

Thanks everyone! Back in the saddle again after a long needed vacation, I'm continuing with the engine and engine bay work. The firewall from the Moebius '61 Ventura is not entirely accurate for a '64 Bonneville, So I began adding a few things that were absent. My initial thought was to start going through kits to see if I could find a wiper motor that resembled what I needed for the '64, but then I thought it might be a fun exercise to try to make one, so I scratch built one from sheet styrene, strips and rod. A few other details that I worked on over the past couple of days were a throttle cable bracket, radiator hose neck, and dip stick tube. I also fashioned a new breather/oil filler cap for the valve cover. Steve

Looks like a set of rudimentary hood hinges. Steve

I concur. But before you dive in, be absolutely certain that what you have is a styrene "kit" and not an acetate promo. Many of the solutions that are commonly used to strip paint will make short work of an acetate body. I only bring this up because of the "warped" comment, which of course is a common hallmark of early promos. And if you can and do use a degreaser/cleaner to strip the paint, do yourself a big favor and use the real deal, Super Clean, and not one of the cheaper and far less effective knock offs. Steve

No, I really can't. It was some time ago, and just a "one off" thing. I just mixed until the color looked about right. Steve

I'm kind of glad I don't. It would just remind me of all of the other things that I "should" be doing! Steve

I look at it this way. I tend to trust a mechanic with greasy hands, or a chef with a dirty apron more than ones that are spotlessly clean. Indicates to me that they know what they’re doing. ? Steve

I agree. One at a time is definitely all that I can handle. As it is, I’ve got so many little parts scattered all over my bench for one project, that I can barely keep track of what is for what! Steve

I could only wish that mine looked that clean!! Steve

Sometimes you just have to keep your eyes peeled for ever day items that can double as parts. I recently found that the "thumb wheel" from the bottom of a lip balm tube makes a pretty good air cleaner element once you hollow out the center and add a seal to each side. Steve

I’ve mixed my own in the past, but MCW carries all kinds of engine enamels in little 1/2 oz jars, premixed and ready to air brush. This example was a custom mix. Steve

2.5 ounces is actually a lot of paint. I generally don't have any difficulty painting a 1/25th scale body, (inside and out) with around 1/2 ounce, unless I'm painting chassis, interior and engine bay parts with the body color, then 3/4 of an ounce will usually suffice. That's not to say that prep is not important. It of course is. But the paint itself, and what you're spraying it over, is usually more of a barometer of how much will be required than how the model was prepped. A more transparent color is likely to require more coats than a very opaque one, and even then, the number of coats that will be needed to achieve the depth of color that you're looking for will determine the amount of paint that will be used. I could get by with less paint as a rule, but will usually err on the side of caution and spray a coat or two more than I might actually need to be certain that the color is where I want it to be. How much paint I use on a particular model is only limited by how much of it I have on hand. I never concern myself with conserving paint because, A: I almost never paint 2 models the same color, and B: There's always more paint. My last 1968 Coronet project took exactly 1 oz. of paint, as the entire engine compartment, wheels and chassis over spray also used the body color. Steve

Sometimes you have to do some modifications to get things to fit correctly. That’s what we call “modeling”. Steve

Thanks so much for the latest info guys! Out of the country on vacation at the moment, but I will definitely scrutinize the photos when I can look at them on a larger format than my phone. See you in a couple of weeks! ? Steve

I think that there might have been a good chance of seeing a ‘68 until AMT folded. But, now that Round-2 has started to reverse engineer and bring back some old kits, I wouldn’t count out a ‘68 Impala. Steve

And if you’re using enamel for the primary color, be certain that it is completely cured before masking. Enamel takes much longer to cure completely than other paints. Also, be sure that your primer, or under coats are something that the color sticks well to. Most of the adhesion problems that I’ve had have been enamels sprayed over a base that doesn’t promote good adhesion. Steve

That might explain why I didn’t know who she was. Haven’t seen an episode of Star Trek since I was about 12. Steve

Who’s the chick in the chrome diaper? ? Steve

'cause people buy 'em. Steve

Okay, I’ll be the first to admit that I’m a “scale hater”. But I have been attending a 12 step program. I haven’t made it past step 1. Steve

A company called X-EL re-popped them back in the 80s, so they’re probably not as hard to find as some of the other Johan kits, but yeah, still not easy.....or cheap. Steve