StevenGuthmiller

If you really want the machined surfaces of the rotor to look used, my suggestion would be to scuff some BMF with a fairly fine sand paper in whatever pattern you would like while it’s still on the backing and then apply the foil to the rotor surface. I’ve used this technique for the brushed stainless steel panels on the roof of a ‘60 Chrysler Imperial and it worked quite well. Steve

And while I’m at it, I just as well add a few shots of the 389 4 barrel going into my current ‘64 Pontiac Bonneville convertible project. Steve

Well, as long as we’re adding new stuff to old threads, I can’t pass this one up without posting a few shots of the Hemi in my ‘68 Coronet. My favorite engine and engine compartment to date. Steve

Sometimes yes. But over time for me it has become evident that it’s better not to paint everything before hand when there’s any possibility whatsoever that there my be more modifications required in order for everything to fit together correctly. It saves me a great deal of time and hassle in the long run. Steve

I think what all of the responses so far demonstrate is that in the end, the actual color used isn’t really of much consequence. A brand new brake rotor is basically silver on the machined portion and usually either black or dark gray in the un-machined areas. The realism will be accomplished by whatever technique you use to give it some life after paint. One thing that I’ve learned in the short time that I’ve been doing any weathering at all is that it’s really hard to screw up. So paint them whatever shade of silver looks good initially, and then have some fun with it. Steve

I don't know exactly what affect you're looking for, but personally, I would use one of the many different metal finishes that Alclad offers if I were looking for a color to paint rotors. If they don't offer an exact shade that you desire, it's very easy to buy several different colors and mix a shade that's acceptable to you. I don't know how you're painting your parts, but in these kinds of situations, you'll almost always get a much better representation of what you want by air brushing rather than brush painting. Another suggestion to add some realism to simulated metal parts is to add some detail in the form of a wash or some other technique to add depth to the parts. Something like the wash and dry brushing added to the transmission on this Pontiac engine. It can go a long way to making a part look more realistic. You probably don't want a brake rotor to look this well used, but it gives you an idea of what I'm talking about. Steve

Of course, it’s always good to improve whenever possible, but if the finished product is satisfactory for you, changing the technique is meaningless. That’s what I meant by the “minutiae of the technique”. How you get there means nothing. The question is are you happy when you do get there. As has been said a million times on this forum, whatever works for you is the correct way to do it. Steve

Alternating the direction that you sand is probably the best approach, although it’s not always possible depending on the shape of the surface that you’re working on. If you’re getting good results sanding in one direction, there’s no reason to change it. I do it that way very often. Some times we have a tendency to get caught up in the minutiae of the suggested technique rather than the end result. If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it. Steve

Now that the engine is done, I can move on to the chassis. First, I needed to move the transmission cross member forward a ways. The lengthening of the chassis and the shorter transmission than the Moebius transmission made it necessary to readjust. Next, the hollow front frame rails have a tendency to really bother me, so I began "boxing" them in. And finally, as I replaced all of the wiring detail on the firewall, so I will do the same for the inner fender wells. Got a start on that by removing most of the molded in detail, and began making a new relay for the fender well. Steve

I don't think it's so much that some of us are "haters". More like "non-believers". If I don't believe in something, I don't promote it, and in some cases, (such as Molotow) I'll go so far as to try to point out it's downfalls and recommend, based on my own experience, that people avoid it's use for those reasons. Now, in the case of Future, I have no personal experience with it, so I have to rely on tidbits of information gained from other people who do. My biggest problem with Future, or any of these other "floor care" products, is that you can't polish them. I'm a strong believer that polishing gives me the best finish that I can produce, and quite frankly, I've not been thoroughly impressed with a good number of the Future finishes that I've seen. Not to say that I have not seen good results that some get when using it, but let's just say that some people's idea of "good" is not always all that great. Kind of like the response I often get when discussing the use of Molotow ink on external chrome trim when I ask people to please produce an example where Molotow has produced a better result than BMF normally does. Honestly, I don't believe that I've ever gotten a real response to that question. Usually just crickets. And if I did, I would definitely consider it more of an anomaly than the norm, because believe me, I've seen hundreds of Molotow jobs that the builder thinks looks good that don't.......to say the least. All that said, I don't have anything against Future per-say, I just don't necessarily believe that it's a good substitute for a clear coat and polish. To be honest, I've always had the mindset that the use of products such as Molotow and Future were basically acceptable "short cuts", and I don't believe that when you're trying to achieve the absolute best results that you possibly can, that short cuts are necessarily a good thing. All of this just my opinion of course, which I'm sure I will catch some heat for. Steve

Yes, most of the metal parts on the engine are painted in various shades of Alclad paints. Steve

Agreed. Regular super glue will not only fog kit glass, but it will fog chrome parts, and even paint in some instances. Steve

Thanks fellas! Well, the 4-speed, 4 barrel, 389 is finally finished and ready to install, (once the chassis is complete) Since the last engine update, I've installed the exhaust manifolds, transmission, fan belt, fan, breather cap and dip stick. I also added a little alternator wiring and some more road grime to the lower half of the engine. Chassis modifications have begun. Steve

Very simple. Put a small dab of clear 2 part epoxy on the roof or glass where you’re putting the mirror and then walk away. Set a timer for about 15 minutes, (for the 5 minute epoxy I use anyway) and then come back and check the tackiness of the glue on your mixing card. If the glue is still semi-liquid, let it set for a while longer, until it’s sticky, but really doesn’t create any strands when you stick in and pull away an instrument. Once it’s at this “just tacky” stage, place your mirror with a tweezers. You should get no glue squeeze out, and the mirror will stick and stay exactly where you put it. It will still take a little while for the glue to set completely, so you’ll still have time to make minor adjustments. I use this technique for a lot of "sensitive" assemblies. As an example, as we speak, I'm installing a piece of wire for a fan belt on my '64 Bonneville project. Rather than try to do it all in one shot and making a mess with CA glue, I'm gluing basically one pulley at a time using this tacky glue technique, letting it set up hard for a couple of hours, and then going around the next pulley. This helps me keep the belt taught, and prevents a glue mess. Steve

I was thinking more along the lines of a tint for the entire glass. Steve

Anybody ever try tinting their Future, or whatever, with transparent green or blue acrylic paint to see how it would work for tinted glass? I've never had much use for Future, but if it could be very lightly tinted, I thought it might work well for this application. Steve

Steve

I believe that I have the firing order correct. Don't quote me on that because as the eyes get older, it starts to become a little harder to keep the wires sorted correctly. I've always been an advocate for correct firing orders. It's really no harder to do them correctly than it is incorrectly. Plus they don't run worth a darn if they're not! Steve

Some more progress on the Bonneville. I believe that I've pretty much finished up the firewall. Got the wiring finished up on the engine. And finished up the 3 piece removable air cleaner. Getting very close to finishing up the engine, and moving on to the chassis. Steve

If you happen to have any automotive polish sitting in your garage, try some of that. I use Turtle Wax “Scratch and Swirl Romover” as my finishing step when polishing bodies. It gives me a very brilliant, reflective finish. Steve

I’m not buying it. I’m not familiar with these clears either, but if they’re taking that long to cure, there’s no question that I’d be looking for a different clear. As far as how long it takes lacquer to “cure”, I can’t tell you any of the science behind it, but I can tell you that the clear lacquer that I use, (Duplicolor) dries enough to be handled within a couple of hours, and is fully ready for cutting and polishing within a few days, to one week. I can attest to this fact because I do it on every build. I don’t own a dehydrator, and at this point, at least for me, I really have no reason to buy one. Steve

Probably no need to sand if it’s just residue. The polish should be all that’s needed. just apply it as you you would polish to your car. If one application doesn’t do it, hit it a second time with a little more muscle. Steve

I must have missed this thread. looks like a great idea to play around with! Steve

My guess is that this has little to do with water streaks, and is more likely diluted glue smeared on the surface as Bainford said. Any fine abrasive polishing compound should restore the finish. If it were mine, I would give it a quick once over with Novus 2 “Fine Scratch Remover”, but that’s just what I happen to have on hand. Any fine polishing compound should work. Steve

You can use WD-40 to take off BMF or tape residue. Takes it right off in seconds, and it won’t harm your paint, regardless of the type. Contrary to the fears, soapy water will remove any residual WD left if you’re worried about it. Don’t know what WD will do to Molotow, but knowing how fragile it is, and knowing that it’s ink, and not paint, chances are it will remove it to some extent as well. Steve