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RDean58

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Everything posted by RDean58

  1. After 12 years, I finally got this one off the bench! Using the intake and exhaust from the 69 Nova kit, and the Air cleaner assembly from (I think) the MPC 69 Camaro kit, I present to you a stock Z/28 RS!
  2. Many years ago I got some from Detail Master. This is my leftover. I did not any of the connections left so I just kind of used pressure to hold it in. I had to use that because I lost the original plastic hose.
  3. Thanks for looking, all comments welcomed.
  4. Finally finished after starting in in June of 1998.
  5. The front marker lights are there on the convertible, just really faint and hid by paint.
  6. So here is one that I started back in 2002. I want to get it finished because I have decided to do the same kit for the 13th Annual 24 hour build. I figured if I'm going to get one done in 24 hours, then I should get this one done first! Here is where I'm at right now. I did the wheel well trim, seat trim, dash trim, tail light trim, and hood chrome all with a Molotow 2mm chrome pen. I love it! How did I ever get by without it? (By using BMF that's how! PIA it is!) Body is painted with Auto touch up "ultra marine blue with a clear coat (I think) or else I polished it out. It has been too long for me to remember, but I think I just clear coated it. Ken's fuzzy fur carpet. I still need to do more on the dash, like instrument decals and some finer painting of the chrome. Door trim is BMF while seat trim is Molotow pen. I have a decal for the back as well, I just could not resist doing the pen on it though. Outside of tail light bezels are the pen while the inside is Testors Chrome paint. Valve covers and intake are from the AMT 62 BelAir while the block is from the kit. Thanks for looking! All comments welcomed.
  7. Nope, I did not do a thing to the marker lights on either body.
  8. They are the same tires, wheels, and backing plates on each side. It is the way the frame sits in the body that makes it look wrong.
  9. I really like the color of this one, Tamiya Pearl green, but I don't like how the frame fits into the body. I think this one will be regulated to the get rid of pile once Revell releases their 69 Chevelle kit (it's coming, I'm sure of it). In the meantime, you can see what frustrates me about these AMT 69 kits. The wheels don't look the same on either side of the model. Playing around here a bit, will that Revell frame fit the AMT 69 Chevelle convertible body? I think the answer is yes :-) Thanks for looking, all comments welcomed.
  10. Maybe I felt in the Christmas Spirit eh? Thanks
  11. I had no clue as to what color I originally wanted to paint this one since it had been so long since I started it, (2014) but finally decided on Testor's Italian Red. Not too bad. I'll get rid of that finger print! Thanks for looking, all comments welcomed.
  12. The original plan was to paint this Tamiya Metallic green, but something happened on the way to the painting station. I decided to paint it Fathom Green Metallic instead. Here's some pics Thanks for looking! All comments welcomed.
  13. Hey, that would be something good to know! Sure, share pics when you do the wheels again.
  14. With my copies of this kit (I have the convertible and the B/M green Camaro) I have found that you need to have everything exactly perfect for the body to set in the frame straight enough that the tires fit in the wheel wells correctly. I even trimmed off some of the outside of the fender wells to get the frame to fit into the body easier. I finally did get this one to set in properly but it is still a big pain. Good luck with yours! Oh, I gave up on the one copy of the convertible, lost the decals etc. so I ordered another one plus the Yenko version that is being marketed as the Fast and Furious one. I have all the movies and like them, but I did not get the kit to replicate the movie car, even though I will be painting my copy blue. I love that color on a Camaro.
  15. Some more pics of the Camaro. Yes, I messed up the fender while I was test fitting the frame and interior in. I'm not going to repaint, just try and fill in the gouges with some Humbrol Metallic silver. I still need to do some more painting on the grille to get it to look right. Thanks for looking, comments welcomed.
  16. Nope, not the ZL-1. This one is going to be a small block 302 with the single intake manifold from the 69 Nova kit and the Nova stock exhaust. I know, something different than the cross-ram with chambered exhaust that this kit comes with.
  17. 1st gen information for camaros Camaro Farm Philippines
  18. I got some new paint on this Camaro this morning. I shot a few coats of Tamiya TS-79 Mica Silver and Testors' "wet Look" clear over it. It's nice and shiny now :-) I also did some work on the interior. Tamiya TS-29 semi gloss black with some Ken's fuzzy fur #102, I think it is gun metal but not sure. I have to get some newer BMF to attempt the door panels thought. Thanks for looking!
  19. Got the frame and engine done on this bad boy. I am using the chambered exhaust from a Revell 69 Camaaro kit along with the headers. I needed to shorting the carb a bit to get the air cleaner to fit below the hood and I need to fix one of the pipes coming out of the mufflers. The chambered exhaust did not fit very well and needed some modifications to get it to fit. Thanks for looking.
  20. I started this one I don't know how long ago, probably around 2015 or so. Anyway, playing with the Yenko Nova and 68 Chevelle I thought I'd get Chevy's other heavy hitter back. What is funny is I compared this body to the AMT 68 Camaro, and I think the AMT version looks a little smaller than it should be. What do you guys think?
  21. Started back in 1995 or so. I painted it with some auto touch up GM green. I like the color combo but just ran out of steam wile dealing with the angle of the steering column. I think I should get back to this before I do a full detail build of the Revell 70 snapper! I had mags on it and have decided to go with the factory SS wheels, which need to be detail painted for them to look their best. I put the deals on then shot a clear over them. I don't like how they raised themselves along the hood scoop. I have some cracking of the decals going on in the rear as well. That ridge is smooth to the touch so I thought I had fixed it. Too late to go back now as I have no clue as to what this paint color is now. Thanks for looking.
  22. I picked up the snap Revell 70 Chevelle yesterday just to check it out and see how well the 68 frame and floor pan fits. What do you all think? There were no modifications done to either the body or the floor pan for this fitting. So this conversion of the snap kit is thoroughly doable, except for one thing. The cost. In order to do this right, someone would need to get two of the snap kits in order to cut the hood out. (unless of course the hood from the AMT kit would fit, which by looking at it I don't think it would. Too short.) In order to get a nice fitting hood a person would need to first cut out the hood from the donor kit along the fender side, leaving room between the cut and the hood edge of the hood for final sanding. The body you are using to build your 70 Chevelle, you would cut the hood out between the hood edge and the fender on the hood side, that way you could sand it even with the fender. Once you do that the hood will fit with the clearance of the grove that is already cut into the body. Basically you would cut on either side of the hood groove and then sand down for fit. The other thing a person would need to get is the 68 Chevelle kit for the running gear. Of course, you could always use the 68 frame and floor pan and mate that to the unmodified snap body for a nice curbside with good frame detail, that way you only need to buy one kit. At the cost of kits now-a-days, we are talking around $60, seems pretty expensive to me. While I do agree the Revell body is way more accurate than the AMT version, perhaps I could live with just a snapper for the 70 version, of build one of the three AMT ones I have! Thanks for looking!
  23. Both Revell ^ AMT got the door panels wrong. Here is a picture of a real one first, for an El Camino. Next, the picture of the door panels from the AMT kit. As you can see on the real one, the line running along the top of the armrest sets out a bit, and the twin vertical chrome strips come down to meet it. The AMT's panel shows the vertical lines not meeting the flat horizontal line and instead stopping at a panel line that angles up. Also, the AMT line is indented, not setting out like a chrome strip would. AMT kind of gets the arm rest right, with the chrome trim protruding from the base, however, the padded top is wrong and there is no panel line going under the arm rest, it just goes straight through like on a Chevelle. Next, here is a real shot of the Chevelle Interior. Revell's door panel though, gets the lines right, they just miss the medallion on the panel. The arm rest does not look correct though, it's line is indented whereas the real life arm rest detail is raised. I'll give Revell a point and a half for getting the panel lines and chrome trim right, the medallion is easy to replicate if someone so desires. Redoing the door lines on the AMT panels on the other hand, would be hard. For those talented enough, they could scratch build a new one.
  24. The Revell engine does have this hose molded into the top of the water pump. I painted that flat black. The AMT engine does not have anything remotely resembling that hose so I could not paint it. To be honest, Revell has done this hose much better on other big block engines. The black mark on top of the water pump is the hose. AMT engine does not have a marking for it. This is the big block from the 65 Impala kit, notice the hose?
  25. Revell Engine, except for the deal with the fan and pulley I mentioned above, it all went together great. I would need to bend the belts down in order to get the alternator bracket to line up with the head, I can live with that small of a distance.
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