Snake45

Here's a whole buttload of oddballs, weirdos, and the just plain strange. There should be something here to delight and nauseate everyone: http://www.darkroastedblend.com/2008/04/worlds-strangest-vehicles-part-4.html

What difference or advantage does the Flintstone resin body have over the AMT kit body? Oh, nice model BTW.

The AMT kit body has its problems, too. They're easily enough fixed once you know what they are and what to do. I'm sending you a PM with some pics and information you might find helpful.

There is or used to be a cool street Bantam running around my area. As to a tubbed street T, the challenge will be seating. Not a problem in an altered with a centered single bucket. Might be more of a challenge to put seats for two AND tubs in a little T bucket. But hey, if you think you can do it, go for it!

Ah, I didn't see the Revell T hiding over there on the right. It's a street OR competition body. The AMT PP T body is clearly a competition. At least I've never seen a street T with the rear wheel "mini-tubs" like the AMT PP body.

That '57 Del Rio wagon looks very interesting. But now I'm thinking of kitbashing it on an AMT '56, even if the resultant model would be a "phantom"....

Yeah, you can just cut the stuff out, put tape on the underside of the chassis and fill in from the top with J-B Weld or another cheap epoxy, and then clean up to your satisfaction with sanding. In this particular case, you also might want to consider substituting the complete chassis from another '55-'57 Chevy kit. The cost might be minimal compared to your time and effort in removing the exhaust. Something to think about, anyway.

Any silver, black, or blue should work, followed by a light gray primer and then white primer or your white paint. And again, the pigments in red styrene do not "bleed" out of the plastic and into the white paint (and I can prove it). The problem here is insufficiently opaque white paint, and it possibly also has something to do with the wavelength of red/orange color/light being able to penetrate white/light paints better than the wavelengths of other colors. You almost never hear anyone worried or complaining about blue, green, gray, or black plastic "bleeding" through white paint.

The M&B certainly, but I believe the Revell could be built as a streeter too, couldn't it? (And the parts pack body certainly could.) Besides, have the Fad Ts emulated the look of race cars, or was it the other way around? Discuss.

That was just a special issue of the regular '25T with sand tires and most of the other parts missing. I know, I just restored one. Two others I didn't see here: MPC Marcellus & Borsch Winged Express Altered. Revell double kit T. They also had a Parts Pack T body.

There is one but it's the '68-'69 type hubcaps. '67 was different. I'm pretty sure Modelhaus has the '67s.

Great post, Mark.

You must have been reading my mind. I've been wanting to start a project on "fad Ts" from about 1960 to the mid-'70s or so, and the various kits of them.

Hey, it's not really that big a deal. If there's something you've always wanted available in resin, at a price that's not too dear to you, go ahead and go for it! If you can do a good job on styrene, you shouldn't have any problems with a GOOD resin kit. (There are poor ones, too.) Ask here about specific resin kits you're interested in. Chances are one or more of us can give you good advice on specific examples.

Well if I'd seen the pics of it with those goofy-ass fake exhausts on it, I'd have known it was a Barris job. Puhl in Chicago was doing some similar things about the same time, though with a little more taste. Come to think of it, so was Starbird.

The more I think about it, the more I think the best route to a base '67 Camaro is the AMT kit. *Correct hood. *Correct grille, and more accurate and better shaped one, too. *More accurate body in the rear end. *Kit's 302 engine could easily represent a base 327. *Rally wheels are correct options for a base Camaro if you want (though I think that would be rare). Other possibilities are discussed above. *The kit's "Custom" interior is a correct option for a base Camaro. *Dual exhaust would probably have to be converted to single, though I think dual is also a correct option. Conversion to single, if desired, would also be necessary with the Revell kit. I'll try to check out a Corvair kit's stock wheels. The original Corvair kits had correct 13" wheels but I think the more recent reissues might have come with 14" wheels and small tires. I'll see what I can find. ETA: Just looked at two different reissues of the Corvair. Wrong type of wheel cover, AND I think they're too small. So that's a non-starter.

I think that's just the AMX show car--or a Dave Puhl-modified AMX--with some extra cardboard pop-riveted onto it. BTW, I remember that episode of Banacek very well. I solved the case about a half-hour before Banacek did.

Yeah, there ya go, just as a ferinstance. I think he also wrote at least one of the American Idol finalist songs--and one that actually sold a few records, too. I'd have to look it up.

The AMT '67-'68 hood IS a base model hood. I'm just not sure how well it fits the Revell body opening or lines up with the cowl vents. That's what I meant about "adapted."

There are many kinds of resin. Some are very much like working with styrene; others are like trying to work Styrofoam. Regular model cements won't work on any of them. You'll have to use superglues or epoxies to glue or fill them. Resin sanding dust is considered to be very hazardous to your health, unlike styrene. Be very careful not to breathe the stuff in. Wear a mask or respirator if at all possible. The good news is that most resins stand up to "hot" paints better than styrene.

Now THAT one, if I'm not mistaken, was a rebodied Fiat altered (much like the Psycho fastback) and was never close to being FX legal.

Hood: It might be possible to file a base hood out of the SS hood. I'd have to check how thick the kit plastic is. If it's not thick enough, the underside could be filled with J-B Weld or something of the sort and then the two big "grooves" could be filed in. Or the hood from any AMT '67 or '68 could be adapted, one way or another. I think the base grille (inaccurate as it is) is what's in the kit, so you're good to go on that. ETA: WHOOPS, was looking at the grille from an AMT when I wrote that. The Revell kit has the SS molded in. You could take the grille from an AMT '67 (which is more accurately shaped anyway) for a base model. Trumpeter '63 Nova has the Chevy 6. I think it's available aftermarket, too. Would be much easier to go with a base V8, though (lo-po 327). As to hubcaps/wheel covers, Chevy offered several different types. I believe the original AMT '67 annual kit had dog dish hubcaps and Modelhaus has them repopped. I'd have to research what other wheel covers are correct for '67 Camaro but some might be available somewhere. For example, I'm doing a '68 with wheel covers and I'm using the ones from the AMT '63 Impala, which are almost identical. The wheel covers from a late Corvair kit MIGHT be good, if they're the right diameter. I'd have to check. I see that the fake mag wheel covers as seen on '65 and '66 Chevelles are listed on the Chevy option list, but I don't recall ever seeing many if ANY '67 Camaros actually wearing those. I do have a photo of them on a '68, though. ETA: Come to think of it, if you want a base model '67, the AMT '67 kit might be a better starting point anyway for several reasons, including better overall shape in a couple areas.

I think that was his only "hit" but he's been involved in music all this time. He's been involved in either writing or producing quite a few tunes you've probably heard, though his name's not associated with them.

I think my local FM station played quite a few Asia songs--maybe the whole album. Yeah, I remember they were supposed to be the New Supergoup. And they weren't too bad, either, IMHO.

The frame didn't have to be built on THAT car's stock frame, but it had to be built on SOME stock frame. That's WHY the Malco Mustang was built on the Willys frame. Dunno what year things were changed but the Malco Mustang was, I believe, instrumental in changing them. I'm now looking at the 1971 NHRA rulebook. Gas class says frame "must be stock automotive type frame." HOWEVER, all supercharged cars, A/G, B/G, A/SR, B/SR, and "all cars employing unibody construction [which would include Mustang, Camaro, etc] are allowed the use of rectangular or square steel tubing in frame construction...minimum size 2" x 3" rectangular or equivalent in square configuration." I was just reading an old R&C magazine from '65 or '66 with an article about an "outlaw" AA/GS '33 Willys someone was building. They'd bent the hell out of two stock Willys frames and had had enough of it. They were building a new, SAFER rectangular tubing frame for the thing and NHRA legality be damned. I guess they either match raced it or ran it as an Altered until the frame rule was changed, whenever that was exactly. As to FX, you're right as far as it goes. I think the FX (Factory Experimental) class started in '62 and it was just as you say. It was a legit class in '62 and '63 and into '64, and then people started grossly altering the wheelbase, setting the engine back and using injectors, blowers, nitro, etc. In '65 the racers took it even further and by '66 there was very little "factory" about the funny cars. Either 1965 or 66 was the last year NHRA even recognized an FX class with rules but my point was that many or most of those iconic and seminal funny cars of 1965 and '66 weren't "FX legal" even though the A/FX designation was often hung on them. They were built and campaigned as match racers, not NHRA-legal FXers in most cases. When they ran in NHRA competition, they had to run as Altereds or Competition Coupes or even /D (dragsters), depending on exactly what was involved. It was a VERY interesting and colorful period in drag racing, and one of my very favorites.