peteski
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Posts posted by peteski
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I really think this "not painting over chrome" thing is way overblown. It is not like paint will not stick or will flake off. Really! Some of those "chromed" (actually vacuum metalized aluminum, not the real chromium used on 1:1 cars) parts have a clear coat applied on top for protecting that very thin layer of aluminum. Or if the parts are brass colored, there is a layer of clear yellow/amber lacquer applied over metallic surface to make it look like brass. Those clear coats don't come off easily. Paint won't either.
While paint might not adhere as well as it does on bare plastic, the bond will be strong enough to withstand the handling as well as any paint on the other parts of the model. You might want to spray a coat of primer first, or even shoot the color coat directly over the metalized parts. The paint will stick!
I'm not sure where this whole "don't paint over model chrome" started. Maybe because instructions recommend scraping the metal/clear-coat layer off before gluing parts? Someone assumed that paint wont' stick either? I don't know, but is it false.
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I don't see any visible bricks in that photo. I would go with some sort of smooth plastic sheets and other shapes (styrene, acrylic, etc.). In the end you'll likely paint everything anyway. If the surfaces should be rough, you can use textured paint, if smooth you use semigloss (glossy painted building would not look right).
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4 minutes ago, Ace-Garageguy said:
Anything's fixable, within reason, but at this point I need to stay focused on paying work and just get a cheapo for the interim.
Yup.
R.I.P. Bill's microwave.
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1 hour ago, milo1303s said:
why easy off it's toxic use the purple power concentrate much more environmentally friendly plus you don't need to where gloves lol
Both Easy Off oven cleaner and Purple Power contain Lye (Sodium Hydroxide) as one of the active ingredients. It will mess up your skin. Not sure why you would call Lye "not environmentally friendly". But either way either of those home-brewed paint strippers are about equally dangerous. If you can safely soak your hands in Purple Power, you must have rhino skin.
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You have my condolences Bill. The new appliances sold today are not very well made, and often too "feature-rich" for me.
If the magnetron and transformer are good, what kicked the bucket? Relay? The controller board? Not fixable?
My microwave developed a display problem few years back (during a really humid summer). I determined that the problem was a flat plastic ribbon connecting the display to the main board. It was a very thin plastic ribbon with carbon-based traces. It was "connected" the traces on the controller board by pressure sensitive adhesive. I ended up removing it and making my own ribbon cable using actual wires soldering each wire to the pad on the display and on the controller board.
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On 4/14/2024 at 7:18 AM, iamcokekid said:
Supply problem Testors. Yes, because testors is bankrupt. As for model kits, yes, sadly they are no longer carrying kits at all.
Since this is your first post, welcome to the forum. Really?! Where exactly did you read that? What is your reputable sources for this information? Testors is just a brand name under the Rustoleum brand, which in turn is owned by a giant chemical manufacturer named RPM. Testors would not just go bankrupt.
Besides, Michaels didn't just carry Testors paint products. Kits they sold were made by other manufacturers (Testors never actually produced any of their own kits, and they were all reboxings of other manufacturer's kits anyway).
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There is lots of (mis)information out on the Interwebs. We have to realize this and remember to trust, but verify whether what we read or see online is factual or someone's (incorrect) opinion.
Here, if you actually read past the scary title of this thread you will see posts like this one (also back from 2021).
Over on the Spotlight board this same rumor cam up last week. So, Dave Darby actually went to the source, Testors, and got a response. The Testors line is NOT GOING AWAY!!! They are in the process of dropping all the sub-lines like they announced last year. But the rumor that the entire Testors line is going away appears to be perpetuated by modelers and even hobby shops and distributors playing a bad game of "telephone". Not saying anyone is doing it purposely, but the misinformation is rampant.
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And then there was the infamous Revell '57 Chevy Bel Air (that was in the early '60s?) with all body panels functional.
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2 minutes ago, Bucket T said:
Thanks for the replies. I was just curious if one could get a decent build without painting.
I think "decent" is a very relative term. We all have different modeling standards. Even on this forum I see a wide range of model build quality. My models are better than some and nowhere as good as others. It is really your decision to what level you want to build your models.
As for visual quality of "paintless" model bodies, it mainly depends on the plastic itself, and the color of the plastic. I have seen some polished bare plastic white or black cars that look like they were painted. As I mentioned earlier, major factor is how opaque the plastic is. If it is not fully opaque, it will not look "right". You really need to consider things on a model-by-model basis. Or if a somewhat translucent polished plastic body looks ok to you, then just use that technique for your models. After all, you are building for your own pleasure (at least I hope).
Painting the car body pretty much assures that it will be opaque, but of course painting introduces another set of possible issues.
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28 minutes ago, Tabbysdaddy said:
Decal included. Singular.
Yes, typical Japanese->English translation. Just think of it as "decal sheet". Doesn't have to be plural. And yes, I know you are just being humorous.
If you think about it, there are other Engrish phrases. Like "gull wing doors and rear cover can be opened and closed". Isn't that a bit silly? If they can be opened, they can certainly be closed. It would have made more sense to state "opening doors and rear hatch" That implies that they can also be closed.
That will be one sweet kit!
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Yes, I was hoping for a pedestrian street version (short nose no air dam).
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11 hours ago, bobss396 said:
Classic Plastic in NH uses an Elks Lodge and it is perfect, with a bonus of food being available. My advice is getting a similar venue, almost any fraternal organization rents out hall space.
Actually CPMC is based in Massachusetts (meetings and contest venue), but they are both stone's-throw from NH border.
As far as food goes, first few years we used the Elks hall, they had their kitchen open ans serving lunch, but that stopped. We were lucky to find a really good roach-coach to provide food for our show (he is hired by the club, bot by the venue). Everybody loves his food.
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On 4/9/2024 at 8:17 AM, Chuck Most said:
All I'm going to say is...
Hey ... Lockheed? Might be an opportunity to get back into the airliner business. Jeez, tap into the retro zeitgeist and make a new L-1011.
I think this idea will never fly.
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I wonder if they will eventually make a standard factory-stock version with LHD?
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In my experience some formulas of the red plastic used for molding model bodies are somewhat translucent. If you shine a light trough it, you can tell if that is the case. That translucent plastic will not look realistic when polished. Red needs to be opaque to look like painted metal car body.
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7 hours ago, WorldOfCarModelsCraft said:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/152095262654
Hi, thank You for replay, I can't find it in USA sites but this is in general used in dentistry for copying.
I think that is the older mold making material to make impressions of the mouth, to make plaster casts. Since Agar mix contains a lot of water, it will shrink and dry up if not used immediately. I don't think dentists in USA use it anymore. I had multiple crowns and implant done in the last 10 years, and the dentist uses some sort of 2-part RTV rubber for taking those impressions.
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9 hours ago, bobss396 said:
Who sells those? I just may shrink some black sleeve over a pair to see how well it works.
I just slipped short pieces of wire insulation onto the tips of my tweezers. Not as pretty as those factory-dipped tips, but they do the job.
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Years ago a friend of mine who used to work at a medical supplies distributor used to bring expired supplies (like rubber gloves and other items that were being discarded) to our model club. He gave me several disposable scalpels with plastic handles. The handles were full length, but I noticed that they were much lighter than the standard metal handles. That to me seemed ideal for some very delicate work where light pressure and precision was needed (like trimming BMF on the model). I ended up shortening the handle, and I also modified it for the blade to be replaceable. I do use if for trimming BMF, and it works really well.
That's a nice find. Like you mentioned, these seem like they would also be good for this type of a task.
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2 hours ago, Richard Bartrop said:
I have my own opinions on the intelligence and mental stability of people who camp out to buy game stuff.
I suppose I could camp out on the guy's front door, but a trip to Maryland does seem a little excessive, and he might not be all that pleased by finding some stranger sitting on his front porch waiting for parts.
Maybe that was not the best example, but I was basically trying to say that if you want something bad enough (especially if it is very desired or top quality), you might have to go through some of those proverbial extra hoops to get it.
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15 hours ago, Richard Bartrop said:
I sent an email query in February, and still no reply. The parts do look very nice, but if he really doesn't want to do business with me, what can I do?
Since you yourself communicate trough email, you likely know how unreliable that type of communication can be. While the email process itself is reliable, Spam filters often "eat" legitimate emails or send them to a Spam folder full of real unwanted emails.
Having said that, and realizing that you're dealing with a very small one-man (plus wife and maybe sometimes a helper?) operation, super-busy casting superb quality parts the old-fashioned way (not just plugging in a 3D printer and spewing dozens of parts at a time). I would not give up so quickly. I suspect some legit order or info request emails get lost in the shuffle. Norm focuses on the production, rather than sifting through Spam emails. It would be different if he could hire a dedicated person just for customer relations, but that is not realistic in his business model
If you really want those parts (and from personal experience with Norm's product I know they worth the extra effort), I would try emailing Norm couple more times (possibly from different email addresses if you have them). Clearly state your purpose in the subject line (something like "RMCoM info request"), and give some time for the response. Not sure if a phone call would be feasible for you, but that would be another avenue to explore.
To put it bluntly, Norm doesn't need any more business - he is already super busy filling his orders already. That is why the customer that really wants Norm's products, might have to go through extra hoops to get it. Think about this like what people do to get the newly released Xbox video game console. People camp out at the store the nigth before to get a chance to get it. Same here: you have to be persistent trying to get what you want. If not, oh well . . .
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On 4/6/2024 at 1:43 PM, Mike Slapattack said:
I love that Camaro!
Thanks! Here is another photo.
I was in my early 20s and had lots of fun with that car. Back then the Night Rider series was on TV and I designed and built my own computer for my car. If you look behind the grille, there are 5 lights there. When I turned them on, they scanned back and forth just like the red lights in the series KITT car. I could select different flashing patterns too. The tinted headlight covers were removable (attached with Velcro (working 2nd shift I did a lot of nighttime driving, and cops also would also not be fond of them whenever they pulled me over).
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On 4/6/2024 at 1:45 PM, Mike Slapattack said:
Cadillac is beautiful too. There's a gentleman in my area with one of the ASC converted convertible versions.
Yes, those are sharp looking cars and fun to drive around topless. My neighbor down the street owns one of those convertibles. As a bit of a trivia, one of those was used in the Hart to Hart TV series.
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7 hours ago, Leica007 said:
I would stay away from using alcohol on the chrome, it does strip the chrome off. I use acrylics and use windshield washer fluid (winter formula) for thinning all my acrylics, especially for airbrushing.
But Lei, windshield washed fluid actually has alcohol in it. Especially in the winter blend (where it is uses as antifreeze agent). Go figure.
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My mom owned one of those back in the '90s. It was metallic gray with very plush gray velour interior. Very comfy car to drive, but watch out for static electricity when getting out of it in the winter! ZAP! It was very painful. It was so bad that I eventually I figured out a way to drain the static from my body before getting out.
That elegant body style was similar on many GM cars from the first half of the '80s. My '85 Caddy Eldorado has a similar body style, and those Centerline wheels look like they just came off my '76 Camaro (I drove in the '80s and '90s).
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Removing canopy glue
in Model Building Questions and Answers
Posted
The sad thing is that if someone actually clicked on the link Joe posted in the first reply to the question, that was the the exact answer there. Alcohol.