peteski
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Posts posted by peteski
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The reflective property only really shows up when a light is shined directly onto the stickers from the direction of the viewer. When viewed during the day those stickers don't show any reflectivity, so to me using regular colors would suffice.
Yes, Alps printers do have metallic inks available, and you can also overprint them with other colors. For example printing yellow over met. magenta produced metallic red, and yellow over met. cyan produces metallic green.
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1 hour ago, MeatMan said:
Well, his pattern is what I had on my 76 TA I had back in the 80's. This whole post is surreal because I'm planning a a tribute to my 76 with the very tire/wheel combo he's offering.
I bought those tires for my Camaro in the mid-80s. Maybe they were old stock tires? The lettering is the same. In any case, it would be a bonus if different tread patterns were available. Not something most people notice, but it would be nice to have options available. this whole 3-D CAD design and printing thing makes it easier to have many options available.
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Welcome to the forum Alex!
The tires and wheels look superb! But one thing that jumped at me was the tire tread pattern. But before I called it out I figured that I should check it out, and you got the pattern just right for the contemporary Radial T/As. The reason it didn't look right to me was because the tires I had on my car had a different tread pattern, but that was over 30 years ago.
So here is a modern wheel's tread pattern (just like you modeled).
Here are the tires from my car. Notice the pattern is quite different.
Any chance you could also design and sell the tires with the older tread pattern? Many of us model older cars with those wheels and tires.
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There are many different 3-D resin formulations, that I would be cautious, regardless of which stripper we try.
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On 5/28/2024 at 11:56 AM, Jiml0001 said:
Here is wire on EBay I use for standard plug wire. It has an outside diameter of .28 mm which is almost exactly a quarter inch in 1/24 scale...Five dollars for 10 meters and many different colors available
Is that really outside diameter of the insulation, or the diameter of the metal wire itself? I ask because wire specifications are usually for the metal conductor, not the diameter of the insulation. If the insulation diameter is really 0.28mm or 0.011" then this wire will be quite handy for models.
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Looks good Marcus!
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The mangled kit is not really USPS' fault. Sender used inadequate packaging materials. Putting soft cardboard box with a model in a bag is not cool and dumb.
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That line shows how the liquid plastic flowed during the injection process (from gates on both sides of the hood, and met in the middle. The problem is that your primer/paint combo is "hot" enough to have the solvents affect the plastic, exposing the joint line. Similar to what happens when you sand down scripts on a car body, then paint it, and the ghosts of the scripts show up. This was never a problem when using mild hobby paints. Not sure how to guarantee that it will not show up after sanding and repainting. Maybe spray a barrier coat of the Killz shellac-based clear?
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It is back to being really sluggish this morning, but intermittently.
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22 hours ago, Dave G. said:
That said, even a full can of paint has head room at the top, they aren't 100% filled with liquid. So if you set a can down for a few minutes the paint will settle and you can poke your hole near the top of the can. You won't get soaked in paint.
I would be *VERY* cautious doing that. Yes, the can is not full, but at that point most of the propellant gas (usually propane) is still in a liquid state, dissolved in the paint. The already gaseous propane under pressure in the can keeps the rest the gas dissolved. Rapid depressurization of the gas will cause the paint/propane mixture to start boiling and it will start spraying out of the vent hole. I would never attempt this process.
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One way to dull the shiny appearance is to roll the wire with your finger over 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper sheet. It will take a while since the fingertip area is not very large, but it should nicely dull the wire's surface.
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Easy way to check if the can is pressurized is to squeeze it. It is made from thin metal and if it still has full pressure it will be hard to squeeze, but if the gas is gone (or almost gone), you will be able to dent the can with your fingers (and it will not spring back). That also tells you whether the paint is not coming out due to lack of pressure or due to clogged valve/nozzle.
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How do you know the foil's thickness? Is that mentioned on the packaging, or you measured it (off the backing paper of course)?
I'm asking because 0.1mm (0.004") is *AWFULY* thick! Much much thicker than even heavy-duty household aluminum foil. Maybe you meant 0.01mm (0.0004"). That would be more like what I would expect.
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On 5/20/2024 at 6:23 PM, StevenGuthmiller said:
Not to mention the fact that you have to learn how to use your left foot!! 😮
Steve
Sometimes I ride behind drivers using both feet in their automatic cars. They are easy to spot because their left foot must be tired, as they are constantly riding the brakes (they brake lights are on most of the time). I never understood that. In emergency braking situation your reflex likely will be to stomp on both pedals! Plus the automatics aren't designed to comfortable place and keep both feet on the pedals.
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Them's some *BIG* shoes!
Probably for those giant dump trucks used in strip mining. Each one probably costs as much as a passenger car.
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18 hours ago, Keef said:
I also purchased some of the micro brushes at HL and during my Saturday morning coffee/piddling session I did as you suggested and I was amazed at how much better the results were. So thank you again for the advice
You're welcome Keith.
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55 minutes ago, Ace-Garageguy said:
Your item was returned to the sender on May 17, 2024 at 5:01 pm in MXXXXXXX, GA XXXXX because the address was vacant or the business was no longer operating at the location and no further information was available.
Hmm, I wonder if this not-so-swift mail carrier misread your address and the place where he delivered the package was actually vacant? That doesn't excuse them, but how stupid can someone be not to realize that your place is not vacant (even if you aren't at home). Or maybe he was using a GPS and is misrouted him to some abandoned house or vacant lot? I don't know your neighborhood, so I'm not sure it is even feasible.
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8 hours ago, bobss396 said:
The carbide drills are fragile over HSS drills. They mainly break when they break through or when they bind up with chips. They are best for starting a new hole as they don't tend to wander off.
They are very hard and brittle (especially the small sizes), with split point which as you mentioned does not wonder and will quickly bite into most materials. They cut plastic like butter.
The fragility is why I like to get mine in larger quantities. I had some really good deals for boxes of 50 bits. Also whenever I can, I used them in a drill press., but I also often just drill by hand if I can't easily use a drill press. The 1/8" shaft makes hand drilling easy. You do need steady hands. I still do use standard HSS bits, but only as a last resort for some specific jobs.
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3 hours ago, James2 said:
Perhaps if you would do a little research you would be more informed...
Did you comprehend what I wrote in my last post?
Well informed? About what? That new members are moderated for their first 25 posts? I know that.
You are making me even more confused. Vette_lover already had 48 posts to their credit (way over the moderation threshold), back in February, and he hasn't been around since February 15. So even back in February Vette_lover was no longer moderated.
Now you come in now (on May 5th) asking for some unobtainable help in posting for the Vette_lover? How the heck do you explain that?!
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I know on a "real" computer I can edit that quoted text, or if I select some part of the text in the post I am responding to, I can quote just the text I selected (instead of the entire post). Not sure if you can do that on the smart phone, but I don't see why not. You can also quote multiple posts (or portions of them) in your reply.
Some members do that when thanking multiple members for their praises by using multiple quotes with a "thank you" response. Makes for a much cleaner thread.
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I don't understand James2's plea.
First of all i don't understand how a full fledged member can help another newbie member to increase their post count. It is up to the newbie to read existing threads/posts on this forum and comment on them, or create their own new threads (therefore increasing their post count).
Second, it appears that Vette_lover2004 has left the building. He has not visited here since February 10 (and it is now May 15). Why did James2 posted his plea on May 5th when Vette_lover has not been visiting here for months.
Third, Vette_lover2004's post count (according to their profile) is already 48! Way past moderation.
This whole thing makes absolutely no sense! Weird!
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Amazing realism! You are a very fastidious modeler. It looks exactly like a 1:1 engine!
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On 5/13/2024 at 6:07 AM, NOBLNG said:
Micro Mark apparently has good quality drill bits and a variety of pin vises and push drills. I have a set of Vallejo #60-81 drill bits that are very good. I also have some Godhand drill bits that are very good quality.
https://www.micromark.com/search?keywords=Pin%20vise
I recommend reading the following threads for some good drill bit discussions (as that is a whole another subject). As it will become apparent there, whenever possible I highly prefer using the PC Board Tungsten Carbide drill bits with 1/8" shanks.
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Oh yeah, in today's world you have to be ever vigilant to keep the bad guys away. Thanks for keeping the forum running smoothly!
To prime, or not to prime, that is the question
in Model Building Questions and Answers
Posted
This question comes up here repeatedly, but since you only have 8 posts under your belt (and probably didn't do any forum searches) you wouldn't know that.
Here is one such thread from coupe of years ago. Same info will likely be repeated here.