peteski
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Posts posted by peteski
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Digital photos come in many (pixel dimension) sizes and resolutions. I access te forum from my PC and when uploading my own photos I aways edit them (cropping and resizing). My goal is to make sure my photos have have 1200 pixels or less horizontally. That is plenty for still showing enough details in the photo, while keeping the file size down to less than 1MB.
Yes, the admins tell us there is plenty of image storage space available, but with everybody hosting their photos here to me it is common courtesy to minimize the space usage. Yes, we have lots of space but how about 10 years from now? Plus it makes no sense to upload huge images (like 4000x3000 pixels which are several MB in size). It is like too much information.
So yes, some effort is involved is one wants to be a responsible forum member. I use Corel Draw Suite's PhotoPaint to manipulate my photos, but there are lots of free graphic image editors out there. Some very complex, others simple. Even the Microsoft Paint can be used for this, but I find it awkward. Friend of mine uses https://www.irfanview.com/ and to me this one is more powerful than MS Paint but not complicated. Like I mentioned, cropping and resampling (changing the photos pixel dimensions) are the only things needed.
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I feel the opposite. That car doesn't do anything for me. I find its lines awkward. But I think that 1954 Guilietta Sprint is a very good looking car.
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2 hours ago, Bugatti Fan said:
Veteran cars have been very under represented in kit form over the years. The only ones I can think of were made by Airfix, Revell and Gowland way back when in 1/32nd scale mainly. Aurora did a few in 1/16th scale plus one of two other kits of Japanese origin who I cannot remember. The very latest kit is of a vintage Mercedes in 1/24th scale by ICM that has photo etched wire wheels that I can think of. Not much market for them I guess.
True. There are also other models of the early 20th Century vehicles in smaller scales. Micron Art (no longer in business) produced several photoetched brass models of such vehicles in N scale (1:160). I built their Knox Fire Engine. See https://nscalevehicles.org/galleries/2/knox_fire_pumper.php for photos, and https://nscalevehicles.org/tips_n_tricks/micronart_knox_fire_truck.php for construction details.
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1 hour ago, superbike-shaun said:
Please be aware that I have spoken to Chris ( upscale hobbies) and are working to get the problems associated with my New Belkits Ralleye car Being lost squared away.anyone whom is interested please shoot me a msg I'll be happy to share thank you shaun
Good to know that the problem is being addressed by Upscale Hobbies. Shaun, since your problem has been discussed openly in this thread since the beginning, why not post the info here?I guess we don't really need to get all the details of how things are being addressed, but once the problem is resolved, you could update this thread with some additional details as to what was the problem, the final results, and whether you are satisfied with the answers you got, and with the final resolution.
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That is a very unusual and interesting subject. Is the model designed in CAD and 3D printed?
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That is really cool! The "gold" finish using Tamiya clear yellow came out surprisingly well (better than I would have expected).
One thing you might consider doing is painting the exhaust tips flat black, so they don't look like they are closed off.
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It looks really good to a non-aircraft buff like me. Nice model of a corporate jet. What scale? 1:48?
As for the cabin interior, that would come in really handy if one decoded to do a cutaway model (like I used to see sometimes in travel agencies decades ago).
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Every time I see this thread pop to the top of the topics list I have a chuckle seeing it in the "Welcome! Introduce yourself"" section of the forum. No complaints - I just think it is funny.
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Oh, just blame it on lasting effects of COVID, or on the widespread ineptitude of employees and management of the Postal Services. Those are the most frequently given excuses for all sorts of issues. I still see all sorts of spotty supply problems for many unrelated items I am looking for. The world is different than it was let's say 10 years ago,. And it is not for the better.
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2 hours ago, espo said:
Funny how the meaning can change as we get older.
Oh, I had it checked over the years. In the past it was the gloved hand, but last couple of times it was a blood test. I don't remember what it is called (obviously it is PSA). Neither test is perfect, so there is always some possibilities of false positives or negatives.
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And here I thought that PSA meant Public Service Announcement.
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4 hours ago, espo said:
Just need to sit down and tune out whatever is going on around you and just close your eyes and listen.
Listening through good quality headphones (not the tiny earbuds of today) brings out some cool stereo effects.
I have a similar video "Making of The Dark Side of The Moon" from the "classic albums" series by Eagle Rock Entertainment on a DVD.
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6 hours ago, Bills72sj said:
I have not done any pining yet. In this case there is no body surface to mount a pin. It is all "edge".
True, since the entire nose (including bumper) just butts against the body, your method seems the best. I mostly use CA glue and accelerator, so there would be no need to hold it until glue dried. But elastics would come in handy for keeping the pieces aligned while applying CA from the inside.
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True. Could be related to the "How about a laugh" thread in the off-topic forum.
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That is a clever and inexpensive way to get very believable l results, but to me the embossing process using an eraser seems a bit tedious. I wonder if a sandwich could be made of the plastic treadplate, foil and some semi-soft rubber material could be placed between 2 stiff metal or wood plates, placed in a vise, then tighten the jaws to "stamp" the aluminum onto the plastic treadplate? I have a sheet of EDPM rubber material leftover from a rubber roof installation. It is a sheet of rubber about 1/16" thick. I think that would work really well in this application.
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Interesting and clever technique but I much prefer pinning parts which have no clear locating points.
Yes, a bit more work, but it works well. I don't mind the extra work. I actually enjoy it.
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That is weird!
Clear lacquer dries glossy by default. Flat clear is achieved by adding a flattening agent to gloss clear. Can't be done the other way around. If your had your clear lacquer in a glass container, it it was glossy, the liquid would be water-clear. If the lacquer was a clear flat (or any non glossy finish like semi-gloss or satin), the liquid would be cloudy, and in a day or two the flattening agent would settle to the bottom of the bottle with the rest of liquid appearing clear. Just like what you see when looking at bottles of Testors Glosscote and Dullcote.
If yours is a spray can and it dries flat, I think it is mislabeled. I just can't see any excessive humidity causing a clear lacquer to dry totally and evenly flat. But does Duplicolor does even make a similar lacquer in flat finish?
Also just using relative humidify (RH) as a sole determination of whether it will affect the painting is not really useful. 58% humidity when the ambient air temperature is in the 60's Fahrenheit is perfectly safe for spray painting. But if the ambient air is in the 90s, then 58% humidity will likely cause issues like blushing.
The dew point temperature is what you need to consider. That is a combination of RH and the ambient air temperature. Dew point of 50 or lower should be safe to spray paint, but higher than 50's should be avoided. If you local weather does not provide dew point temperature there are online calculators which will give you dew point based on RH and ambient temperature.
Can you decant some of that clear into a glass container and see if it is cloudy or clear? That should answer the question of whether it is a mislabeled flat clear, or there is something else strange going on.
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Building Gundam kits has become a popular hobby. Enterprising businesses are taking advantage of that by making handy tool sets and packaging them as Gundam-specific. As I see it, it's simply a marketing strategy. I'm pretty sure the tools are low-quality because like others said, they are used on soft plastic. You will get what you paid for.
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The old-fashion "stinky" (not water-based) contact cement should not wrinkle cardboard or paper. Also any spray adhesives that are not water-based should not wrinkle cardboard or paper - they are designed to be compatible with paper. If you are worried, try it on some similar type of cardboard or even paper.
As far as carpet tape goes, unlike masking or duct tapes it has a very strong and permanent (read long-lasting) adhesive. Should be permanent.
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On 1/26/2018 at 1:46 PM, Jantrix said:
Great tutorial. Bondic maybe?
In my experience Bondic hardens to slightly rubbery hardness (never as hard as plastic or urethane resins). it also has very poor adhesion to anything smooth (like plastic).
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Regular users cannot delete posts or threads. It is an "admin" thing, but it is not done often.
Theoretically you have the ability to edit your post for few days, delete its contents, and replace it with the word "deleted" to let everybody know why the blank post. But after few days the editing is disabled.
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Looks great, but as you said, the dark interior color hides all the details.
Thanks for the "lessons learned". I have this kit and those are very helpful. You confirmed what I was afraid of - that the separate chrome trim will be a pain to deal with. I also bought the transkit with full engine detail and the 3D-pritned door panels, so mine will be even more complicated (when I eventually got to building it). I'm thinking of painting mine light metallic blue with tan interior.
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3 hours ago, deuces wild said:
I had a pinto wagon...🫣
I had two (red and green ones, with woody sides).
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38 minutes ago, ColonelKrypton said:
That is interesting. However I can't seem to find any at any of my usual sources for JB Weld products. I do recall this some years ago, perhaps it has passed out of interest and is not or soon will not be available anymore, at least here in Canada.
cheers, Graham
I had a hard time finding it too. Found it on eBay. I believe this is newly released product (not discontinued).
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Rebuilds or New Kit
in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
Posted · Edited by peteski
When I build models I try to get the as close to perfect as I can.
I don't have much time to spend on hobbies. I rather have pristine kit to start with, and fix any problems it already has, or fix my own mistakes than "wasting" hours trying to deconstruct someone else's work, fix their mistakes, and strip paint. Unless there is a extremely important reason to rebuild a model (mine or someone else's), only new kits for me.
Yet, I enjoy spending time fixing old or non working mechanical or electronic devices. I like to take them apart, figure out the problem and repair it (even if I have to fabricate some piece that can't be purchased). I'm "Mr. Fix-it" to my family and friends.