peteski
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Posts posted by peteski
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Thanks again for the demonstration. Now I see that the supports are not right on the thin edge of the slats, but a bit higher on the wide surface. I'm learning all sorts of things without owning the printer, or using the slicer or CAD software.
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Very interesting and educational Rob - thanks!
Also interesting that few of the louver supports appear that they aren't attached to the back edge of the louver, but in other places. Or maybe they are still attached to the rear edge but at a different angle?
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Very nice. Could you post a rendering of the successful grille with the supports on it? While I don't do any 3D printing, I'm always open to learning how others succeed in printing some amazing objects. There is a lot of science and even maybe art (and multiple tries) involved in successful 3D printing.
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Nice! Looks like that method will work quite well.
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5 hours ago, Bugatti Fan said:
Don't dismiss tube cement as a childhood thing !
Although I use it both infrequently and sparingly, there is always the odd time when it can the best thing available to use, so I keep a tube handy along with the plethora of other various adhesives I use.
I still have one, but it is dried up/hardened, and I never bought a fresh tube as I really don't find any applications for it. But we all use different techniques, so if someone finds it useful - the more power to them.
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Jeff, while I don't know about this specific kit, model kits often have wrong engines in them. Especially older kits. They would use the same engine in several kits. It might be accurate in some kits, and not in others.
As for the decal, Monogram probably replicated actual car's decals even if the kit has a wrong engine in it.
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I'm enjoying this thread. As for those brass rings, they seem too loose on the plastic rod. If they weren't so floppy on the rod, they would stay in place for you to glue them.
I was thinking of maybe wrapping the rod with some typing paper, but that would probably make it too thick. How about "painting" some CA over the rod and letting it harden. That would increase the diameter slightly, hopefully enough to steady those rings. Depending on the CA's viscosity, you might have to apply more than 1 layer.
I'm also assuming that you are gluing one ring at a time, not trying to glue them all at once. That way each ring can be aligned separately.
You should also be able to reuse the rings from failed attempts. Acetone dissolves CA glue (and also styrene), but you can likely find replacement styrene rod.
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2 hours ago, stavanzer said:
Yeah, but you never 'own' an electronic mag. Whole point of magazines to to have something to hold.
I'd rather just pay for a real subscription.
If the publisher allows for downloading the electronic copy (maybe in a PDF format) to you computer then you do own it. That used to be the case in the past, but nowadays they probably don't offer that.
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6 hours ago, Bainford said:
A polish and buff should do the trick.
I think that a coat of 2K clear would result in an award-winning skull.
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9 minutes ago, Rodent said:
Best unsolicited advice I ever received was from my neighbor. He told me to stop using bar soap and I would have a lot less soap scum in the shower. He was right!
LOL. Yes, I have heard that too and I believe it is true, but I still like my bar soap! We all have our idiosyncrasies.
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Because times they are changin'. Most hard type floors today (which in the past would need to be rejuvenated) are made from vinyl, and often have satin or flat finish to begin with. You don't want to put glossy clear over that - it would ruin the look. And the glossy vinyl floors have very durable finish which does not need to be clear coated.
So there isn't much market for floor coatings or waxes. If it doesn't sell, well, the stores don't carry it.
Some thing is happening with bars of soap - the younger generations are all into liquid body wash. Look at the variety of body washes vs. bar soap variety. And even nuttier is that now shampoos are being phased out by 2-in-one body-wash/shampoo. I like my bar soap and shampoo separate, thank you. And just plain shampoo. I don't want that stinking conditioner in it. Plain shampoo (not the shampoo/conditioner combo) variety is also shrinking.
We sure live in strange times. Rant over!
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What is my favorite adhesive? Well, whichever glue is the best suited for the joined material. I don't play favorites. I have about half a dozen of different adhesives. Epoxies, Cyanoacrylates, Contact Cement, Hypo-Cement (for watch crystals), and solvent-type glues (MEK, Methylene Chloride) for styrene, ABS, and acrylic. However I often favor the CA glue and accelerator. I however don't use the typical hobby tube-type cements (like Testors orange-tube). I have left those behind with my childhood.
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29 minutes ago, BDSchindler said:
I have a battery powered hand drill that I got from Micromark. It uses 2 AAA battery's and I outfitted it with twist type chuck that will allow for even the tiniest of drill bits.
Can you provide a link to it, or at least a Micro-Mark catalog number?
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1 hour ago, Can-Con said:
, and one asking a "BIN" of $185.00 😲🤣
And worth every penny! Welcome to the crazy world of eBay!
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Use a hot knife or even a fine-tip soldering iron to melt the plastic mesh instead of cutting. That might actually be beneficial to stabilize the edges.
But I agree with others that seeing the actual shape might be helpful in providing ideas.
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Ron, how can a 3-jaw lathe chuck be a precision drilling tool (like a pin vise)? That was the original question here
The chuck itself is bulky and probably weights couple pounds. Even if the chuck could hold small drill bits (#60-80), I can't see having good control or gentle touch while drilling a #80 hole in a some part of a plastic model. The chuck also has individually adjusted jaws, which means for every size drill bit you would have to go through a centering routine, or the drill bit would wobble.
This chuck would probably be good to turn down model rims and such, but not for precision drilling! What will you use it for?
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You know, there is a sticky thread about this topic in the Tips and Tricks section of the forum. Hard to miss. If you look at few of the recent posts in there, you'll find some alternatives.
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I'm curious if the yellowing is also present on the clear plastic that connects the windshield with the rear window, or is it just in the exposed window areas?
Once you pry the "glass" out of the model, If the entire piece is yellowed, scrape some plastic from both surfaces of the connecting piece to see if the yellowing is just on the surface, or through the entire thickness of the plastic.
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If we are now playing "spot the difference", the license plate is missing and each taillight is different, or is mounted differenly.
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4 hours ago, Mike 1017 said:
I agree with the evolution of technology, but it takes the human brain to advance technology and inventions. My point is: Why the ancients could not develop modern technology. The Polio Vaccine was invented in 1952 what took so long?
Thank you for your comments.
Mike
It is the same reason Les mentioned: lack of technology. Ancients did not know diseases were caused by bacteria or viruses (they have not yet invented microscopes), so they could not develop vaccines. Back in the day, people thought Earth was the center of the universe and was flat.
Human brain is just a biological organ. It has very little information when we are born, and it learns as we age. I'm pretty certain if we could somehow bring a baby from ancient times and have it grow up in today's world, it would function just like the rest of us. It might even invent something new. The learned knowledge makes the difference in shaping the human brain.
And don't forget that ancient Egyptians built all those pyramids, and we still haven't really figured out how they did it using their basic tools.
Leonardo Da Vinci had some interesting ideas for flying machines, but the technology hasn't yet evolved to allow him to actually build working examples.
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I spotted this one last week in the morning traffic. It's been years since last time I've seen one of them, and this one seemed to be in pristine condition. Not bad for 30+ year old vehicle. As a side note, it also had the older style license plate. Those are also rare nowadays. Current plates have red numbers on white background. Sorry for the spotted photo - my windshield was covered with sticky stuff coming off the trees this time of the year.
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3 minutes ago, Daddyfink said:
Huh, where does it say Pre Order?
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It is not about the amount of metallic flakes in the paint. Most Testors metallic spray paints from that time had what many modelers perceive as overly large metallic flakes. The paint would look fine on a 1:1 vehicle, but for small model it is basically out-of-scale. Flakes have size which could pass for the glitter-finish on a scale bass boat. It is not super noticeable viewed in-person, but taking photos of the model, the out-of-scale size of metallic flakes is readily apparent (to some of us).
Actually looking at the photo of your Charger, the metallic flakes which show up look too large to me. Again, it is all in the eye of the beholder. In 1:25 scale, metallic flakes should be barely perceivable. The paint should have more homogeneous metallic look.
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1 hour ago, Daddyfink said:
Tower Hobbies shows it available, yet everyone else says coming soon.
https://www.towerhobbies.com/product/124-nissan-fairlady-240z-street-custom/TAM24367.html
When I visit that link it shows it as"'Pre Order'. That's not the same as in stock. The price seems reasonable compared to Japanese online vendors considering the shipping cost from Japan.
Keeping the "fuzzies" off the paint.
in Tips, Tricks, and Tutorials
Posted
Sounds like that when we paint we should wear those disposable Tyvek full body suits used during hazardous substance decontamination, on in clean room manufacturing facilities.