peteski
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Posts posted by peteski
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1 hour ago, Milo said:
I did do some brush touch ups and they dried fine
You used the same exact paint mixture, and brush-painted it dried smooth and glossy? Was it the same exact mix (including the thinner) as what was in the airbrush? You did mention that when the paint is still wet after airbrushing, ,it looks smooth and glossy until it dries That doesn't seem to make sense, but I would then think it has to be your airbrushing technique.
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I seem to recall a mention that Archer Transfers closed shop not too long ago. It is good to see that they are still open for business.
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1 hour ago, Milo said:
I use the little 1 ounce glass testors, mixed different colors. It dried with the texture it was looking fine when wet. I do have a really bad janky air brush that isn’t even adjustable
I have never seen a 1oz. Testors glass bottle. The little square bottles are 1/4 oz. and the larger round ones (usually Model Master) are 1/2 oz. If you ever seen Floquil paint, that usually came in 1oz. round bottles (much larger than Testors). I was asking mainly to see if you were mixing different kinds of paints (which can be problematic).
If the freshly sprayed paint surface looks smooth and shiny like glass, then I wonder if there is a problem with the paint itself. Like I said, before laying a coat on the model, try it on a plastic spoon and empty plastic soda bottle to see what results you get. Plastic spoons are quite inexpensive.
On the other hand, maybe try to brush-paint a spoon using the same paint you are airbrushing with and see if it dries smooth.
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I assume the photos showing the WIX box and Bldg. 19 price are of the truck's box? So yes, it seems that either the model manufacturer, or even Bldg. 19 had the WIX models custom repainted into their current paint job.
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We need more details. What specific type paint did you use? From the little glass square bottles (PLA enamel), or round bottles (Model Master)? Or a spray can? I assume it is the stinky (not water-based) paint. You said you mixed. You mean you stirred/shook the paint, or mixed multiple colors (using the same type of paint of course).
When you are spraying 3" from the surface, is the paint smooth and wet right after it laid down, or does it already have that texture while wet? I have brush-painted and airbrushed Testors paints for decades and they seemed to always work fine for me. But I have also heard that some new batches of Testors paint can be problematic. I have not bought any for some time.
Another example where test spraying a plastic spoon could prevent possible stripping of the body, or very tedious sanding and polishing. It makes sense to learn on spoons (or plastic soda bottles) before dealing with the actual model.
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8 minutes ago, Monty said:
See the post above yours. Years of being online and this is the first time anything like this has happened (to the best of my knowledge).
LOL, yes. I don't know why but I thought you wrote "Believe it or not, it's not the first time it has happened to me, so I was clueless. "
Looking at it now, the statement as I thought I saw it made no sense. but my brain was obviously not fully engaged. -
This is the exact definition the club I belong to uses for their model contest rules (other clubs and contests rules might be different).
BOX STOCK (additional requirement for Class 11 and 12 only): Finishing materials such as paint, metal foil, flocking and/or
aftermarket decals are allowed. No other modifications or added details are permitted except as follows: Putty may be used to fill
seams and/or to correct manufacturing flaws such as sink marks. Removal of details such as door handles, chrome trim or
incorrect/extraneous underbody details are also allowed. Kit instructions MUST accompany the entry. -
Yeah, the Super Kings trucks are around 1:64 scale
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Never knew this existed. It reminds me of the Matchbox Super Kings Shell Tanker which I have in my collection.
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OK, so what did you do the last time this happened to you?
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4 hours ago, BlackSheep214 said:
I'll never waste my hard earned dollar renting an EV for a day. I have zero interest in EVs.
Well, whatever dude. You'll never know what you didn't try. I'm not really interested in buying one either, but I was curious how they work. Now I know, and I feel educated.
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Why not just put the decal in a ziploc bag and tape it to a window exposed to sun? That is the strongest source of wide-spectrum UV light. MegaWatts! I used natural sunlight to bleach decals in the past.
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44 minutes ago, NOBLNG said:
Can Model Master or Testors enamels that have thickened up a bit (but not dried up) be revitalized with a bit of lacquer thinner? And will they keep for long after being thinned? Thx.
Might not be the best idea. It adding thinner to a paint, best is to use the same brand of thinner as the paint. Testors enamels use petroleum distillates which are chemically different than lacquer thinner. You might your your paint gelled after few months.
And once enamel paint gels or partially solidifies (unlike lacquers), nothing will redissolve it.
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Funny that this discussion was about other model-related forums, but it turned into free-speech gripe session. If one wants to discuss politics or religion, t here are places for that out there (liek FB or other non-modeling forums). To me modeling-themed forum is for modeling. Sure, many modeling forums have OT section, but many of the members don't even look at it, and the ones who participate usually post silly or entertaining things there (or obits).
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12 hours ago, slusher said:
You can use them over enamels because they are not hot..
That's correct. Just because they are lacquers, that doesn't automatically make them hot (unlike the lacquers designed to paint 1:1 metal-body cars, but which modelers used to paint plastic kits). Glosscote and Dullcote have been around for decades and are specifically designed for the hobby market.
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The black coating on BMF can wear off, and it is too shiny for representing typical rubber gasket or even satin black painted trim. The silver edge will also be visible. Annd as others have said, it is not as pliable as the original or new chrome BMF.
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7 hours ago, jaftygas said:
I see what you’re saying. It’s just when you get to being 25 times smaller on anything it starts getting lost in translation. I would never measure a wheel by the outer lip.
But that is the visible diameter of the 1:1 rims. Rims of majority of the models are not accurate replicas of the 1:1 tire and rim. Model rims do not have lip. So visual diameter is what we use for models. The diagram afx posted is correct. If you were to use the diameter of the 1:1 tire bead, your model would not have accurately scaled wheels..
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21 hours ago, Odeman said:
I remasked the window trim and painted. The damn tape again left a residue and I used all Tamiya tape. I clear coated the car and let it sit for two days but still got tape residue that would only come off by sanding with 2000 grit paper. I tried goo gone, WD-40 and the residue would not come off... The sanding worked and putting on another coat of clear rendered a great result. Tape residue!!! any remedies or methods anyone can suggest? Appreciate it.
If none of those liquids removed tape residue, and only sanding took care of the problem, that to me indicates that it is not adhesive residue but the solvent in the paint you used permeated the tape and actually softened the plastic, so the tape's adhesive imprinted into the plastic. Either change the type of paint used, spray lighter layers, and remove the tape as soon as the paint flashes over.
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I bought an Optivisor (good quality magnifier often seen used by jewelers) back in my 30's when my eyes were still excellent. I tried using it for some modeling tasks and found it very awkward. My naked eyes were quite up to the task without any magnification. fast forward few decades and now I couldn't do any modeling without that Optivisor. I'm addicted to it. Mine has a #7 lens plate which is fairly strong. When I don't need such high magnification, I just cheap reading glasses from a dollar store. I have 2.00 and 2.50 and those work well for me. In the meantime I also went to optometrist and got fitted for real reading glasses. Of course those work well too. I usually wear the glasses under my Optivisor. Optivisor's design is to me better than many other inexpensive ones because it shields the ambient light. I don't care for the magnifiers which just hang the lenses in front of your face. Plus the Oprivisor has removable lens plates, so you can easily switch between different magnification factors.
Don't forget good illumination for your workbench - it is as important as good magnification.
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17 hours ago, 1972coronet said:
followed up with Testors enamel gloss cote
Actually John, Testors Glosscote and Dullcote are lacquers, not enamels. They have always been lacquers. That is why they dry so fast.
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On 8/30/2023 at 12:28 PM, StevenGuthmiller said:
However, having over did it, and joining way too many groups to start off with, (I just checked, and I belong to 49 model car groups!
) it's impossible to keep up with what's going on with all of them consistently.
But it is fun to check out as much of the stuff as I have time for, (which is very often limited)
Yeah, with all the FB groups you belong to, then here and possibly other online forums, even just skimming the contents, how the heck you still find time to build all those beautiful models? You must be retired or independently wealthy!
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I don't think that vintage of Miata/Eunos was made as a (non-removable) hard top. It was roadster-only sports car. It did have removable hard top which could be installed.
Yes, this vehicle is known as Mazda MX-5 Miata in the States. My GF owned one before I met her. It was the "M-Edition" and she said it was lots of fun to drive. I wish I met her earlier.
Like Jason mentioned, Tamiya released both versions as separate kits. Both have the hard top option (molded in clear plastic, on the same tree as rest of the clear parts. I have both kits.
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8 minutes ago, bobthehobbyguy said:
Ironically when the first automobile became more prevalent I'm sure that there were similar conversions. When wagons were pulled by horses and mules it was simple to get food for them. There no real gas stations and roads were pretty minimal. What was adequate for a wagon wasn't necessarily the best for a car.
In the early days of the horseless carriage wasn't there a law that a person with a flag was supposed to walk some distance in front of the vehicle to warn people of the incoming vehicle? That tells you of the breakneck speed those vehicles could achieve.
Same thing happened when first railroads were built - people were afraid that traveling faster than 25 MPH would do something nasty to the human body. Plus those contraptions spooked the horses used as a main means of transportation.
We seem to have adapted to and embraced all those weird contraptions. Well, except maybe for Amish (and some wild tribes in Africa and South America).
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I agree that when a full conversion to EVs (or hydrogen cell vehicles,or to some other mode of propulsion) takes place, most of people commenting here will be pushing up the daisies.
The Bathtub Buggy...
in Model Cars
Posted
Yes, very well built model!
It must have been reissued after the 1969 initial run because I picked up one of them at a hobby shop probably 10 years ago. I don't have it handy to check, but I'm sure it was not the original release.