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peteski

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Posts posted by peteski

  1. Nice score Dave!  I do hope you keep it original as much as you can.  I'm not big into resto-mod stuff.  Only 6,000 miles? That is like new (well, except for things aged more than quarter of a century). Hopefully not too much rust.  Will you have to repaint it?  If yes, hopefuly there are reproduction graphics available.

    I remember back in the '80s I build a model of this car (I think it was MPC), but I painted mine white instead of silver.

    • Like 1
  2. Trevor, I don't think the forum ever had a capability to resize photos during upload (to make the file size smaller).  You have to do that before you upload them.

    Or if you mean that you want to display them smaller size, that feature is still available, but that doesn't make the file size smaller, just the way they are displayed in the browser viewing the thread.

    Check this post. Is this what you want?

     

  3. 3 hours ago, Beans said:

    1/35 aint too bad.  It's when you get down to 1/76 or 1/87 for the HO train stuff that it gets sketchy.

    Meh!  You need to try 1:160 scale!  Parts count is not too high (for most models) but they are very small. High magnification is required.

    FedExCoin.jpg

    This one has custom printed decals, photoetched side mirrors and working lights.  The antenna over the windshield is a piece of 0.002" wire.

    Drag_lineQ.jpg

    15_FordT_01_800.jpg

    14KnoxCoin.jpg

    There are many custom made parts in this one.

     

    I also fully service N scale (1:160) locomotives.   This just the loco (I disassembled the tender too). And yes, when I reassembled it there were no parts leftover. ;)

    DSCN9316.JPG

     

    • Like 2
  4. 6 hours ago, Bill Anderson said:

    I should have added in my original post.....  I'm currently working on a Ford 427 Cobra, and this Ford GT is next in line. 

    Have to say, the kit components (i.e. many body shell parts, suspension and motor) are different from what I'm used to in the typical Revell/AMT/Monogram American car kits. 

    Relax Bill, I think you'll do just fine.  And even if something goes wrong, it is only a toy car. ;)

    1 hour ago, Chris V said:

    Not in over my head, but I’m still working up the courage to start building the McLaren Can Am racers from Accurate Miniatures…

    Funny that you mentioned that kit.  I read all the horror stories and I actually bought one on eBay to see what the buzz is all about. I like a challenge!

    I expected to have a hard time finding that kit since it has been out of production for some years, yet when I first looked on eBay there were several available and they didn't have outrageous prices. I chose a sealed example.  I did open it and looked over the parts and instructions.  It is a complex kit but the instructions seem pretty thorough with very helpful hints about handling more difficult assembly steps.

  5. 5 hours ago, ranma said:

    No I haven't nor do really care to! The more they add to a cars/pickups and SUV's the more junk to go wrong, and the way some of it is designed makes it even worse when those things fail!  And for what ever its worth They also stop a car at Cemeteries as they can detect people or animals that aren't see able by us Human's! Can you say Spirits or souls??? And yes I know it's a concept idea, But then so was the Cyber truck!

    Not that I disagree with you (I also think that modern vehicles are over-bloated with unnecessary electronic junk), but unfortunately the large majority of the car buying population loves all those gadgets.

  6. On 4/12/2025 at 1:28 PM, ranma said:

    It's a strong No for me! GM -Corvette learned that the split window in the rear wasn't that good of an Idea, that's why it was a one year design.... Before '63 and after never had that  rear split for a good reason. It made a blind spot and not in a good way!

    RIck,
    Have you driven any modern cars lately?  With a 360 degree camera view around the car nobody looks a the rear view mirror. There are no blind spots. Some rear view mirrors are even computer displays showing the rear camera's view.  That split rear window is basically decorative element.  I think it looks cool. As for blind spots, that car is chock full of them, and again the modern technology takes care of that problem.

    But the front and rear treatments look just weird. Seems that the designers are just going to the extremes (just to outdo each other).  Tone it down a bit!  But as with the outrageous concept cars from the '50s, the production version (if it is produced) will like not look as ridiculous.

  7. 1 hour ago, rattle can man said:

    But what does one use now that Pledge with Future is no longer available? I would think products from other MFG might have different formulas, different levels of gloss, etc.

    There is a mega-thread sticky on the forum about this floor finish, and if you look at the most recent pages there should be some alternatives mentioned.

     

  8. Nope.

    I believe a kit with highest part count was my Pocher 1936 Mercedes 500 K/AK. It had over 2000 parts (individual spokes and nipples are included in the parts count) but it also had seats with springs and which had to be upholstered, windows which roll up and down, operational convertible top made of cloth, working suspension and steering, and working lights.  The parts fit wasn't all that good either.  It took a long time to build but to me it was just another kit.

    MB340AK.JPG

    Like others have mentioned, Tamiya kits basically fall together (parts fit is as good as any manufacturer can get it) and to me the most frustrating part of building a kit are fit issues.  That is why it is best to test-fit all the parts before painting it or using permanent adhesive. Basically building a full mock-up of the parts before actually building it.

     

    What about that Ford GT kits makes you worried that it is too much for you?  Remember, each subassembly of a complex model is like a kit in itself. If you look at it that way, it might look less scary.

    • Like 2
  9. Yes, nothing specific but there are some clues.  Copyright 2000. Made/Printed in USA.  I think that in the year 2000 many domestic kits manufacturers had their kits molded in China. But this one is fully produced in USA.  Which model companies were still manufacturing kits in USA at that time?

    Another possibility (if no other manufacturer ever sold these kits under their name) that these kits might have been contracted out to some domestic plastic injection molding company for mold design and parts molding.  That would (despite what is said about Testors) mean they actually produced their own plastic kits.

    I also wonder if anybody on this forum knows the noted model kit designer Dave Carlock or the box art model builder Carl Thurow. Maybe they could recall some info about these kits origins.

    @Tom Geiger and @tim boyd do you guys know the above mentioned modelers or even some history of these kits? 

  10. I guess the question would then be: does anybody know under what other name the kits mentioned here were ever sold?  I suppose they could have been made by another company exclusively for Testors.  Are there any clues in the way the kits are designed, parts laid out or in the way they are molded? Some companies for example use certain way (or specific lettering style) of molding part number tags on the trees.

    Does the box state where the parts were made?

  11. 4 hours ago, jagxjr15 said:

    A "styling" model, on the other hand would be a model without any opening body panels and without an interior, with the windows painted over (opaque).

    . . . and without any details on the underside (a piece of flat plastic with wheels glued to it is ok).  I never heard it being described as a "styling  model". In this part of the country we call these models "slammers".

  12. 1 hour ago, stavanzer said:

    I've had a set of similar tires in a Testor's Repop of a Johan AMX with special Cast Metal rims.

    The tires started to crumble after it had been in my stash a few years.  I eventually traded the kit, so I don't know how the issues was  resolved.

    I do know that I do not trust Testor's Tires.

    This beings out a question:  I have seen multiple mentions in online forums (so it must be true :D ) That Testors as a company never made molds or prduced any kits on their own.  They are all supposed to be repackaging of other company's kits (like Fujimi, Otaki, Italeri or others).  If that's true, who made the kits we are discussing here for Testors?

  13. Glass, chrome trim . . . I should have been  more specific. The front roof area (which consists of the roof itself, chrome trim, and the glass) is not well modeled.  We have discussed this in depth on this forum when the kit was first released.  I own the kit and I'm planning on building it some day, but I still don't like they way Revell handled that area.

    If you don't recall, the "real" discussion about the kit's accuracy starts with the following post:

     

  14. On 4/8/2025 at 8:06 PM, Radretireddad said:

    I’ll grant that the kit body roofline isn’t quite right especially in the area of the top edge of the windshield

    Actually your photos show just how drastically wrong it is.  The front edge of the roof seems to extend way too far forward and it is also flat where your car's windshield curves up into the roofline. 

    Since your car is black, it is also very difficult to compare the shape of the wheel openings on your car with the ones on the model.

  15. 4 hours ago, robdebie said:

    Building on Peteski's comments, maybe you can scrape the resin parts, to release the original smell.

    Rob

    In my example the resin stinks without need to scrape it. Some of the items I haven't used (or painted over) still stink after 30+ years!

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