peteski
-
Posts
8,343 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Posts posted by peteski
-
-
Paint decanted from an aerosol can has a lot of propellant (usually liquid propane) dissolved in the paint. It takes quite a while do degas.I usually leave the lid on the jar with decanted paint not fully tightened for few days. I occasionally swirl the paint and see it bubbling up.
-
OK, I read on eBay how those live auctions work............must be something relatively new as I've not seen that before.
I'm gonna tune in just to see how this goes!
Well, at least couple of years old. I participated in one of those live auctions (remotely through eBay) few years ago and won an item I was interested in. The entire experience is a bit awkward, but it worked for me. You actually get to see a live video and audio of the auction venue while you bid. But like others said, there is a buyer-s premium and you will have to arrange the shipping from the auction house (they usually have a contract with a shipper, so that part is fairly smooth, but I still had to make few phone calls). If it wasn't for the item I was really interested in, I would not have bothered using the live auction.
-
When I built the '55, dimmable LEDs were not available...I needed the dimmable property for high/low beams, taillight vs brake light/turn signals.
I understand. But the question asked was about the current trends. You did a very good job with what was available at the time.
-
Lightbulbs are so 20th Century - most lighting affects nowadays are done using Light Emitting Diodes (LEDs).
Same techniques and components used by model railroaders and SciFi modelers can be applied to automobile models. -
I went onto Fotki as I know of no one else who does this 3rd party hosting, and got 3 years for $120. That's good for me as a pensioner! I've since found out from another modeller that he has gone to Imgur for free! Hey Ho, at least I'm back on and have been able to refresh at least my latest posts!
As it has been said, if you only post here (don't need to link to the same photos on multiple forums), then just uploads them directly to your posts here. It is free, and guaranteed to be there for as long as the Model Cars forum is active.
-
Model airplane builders use mostly CA glue and accelerator for balsa, and like it has been said, the balsa (not the glue) will be the point of failure. And CA glue is instant - no waiting. :-)
-
Go to the General section of the forum and check out several threads about this. Or just Google for Photobucket image hosting problem.
-
Stay away from Imageshack, they did the same thing a few years ago that Photobucket is currently doing.
Yes, I used to have a free account there and they did the same thing that PB is doing, except they gave an ample warning period. They also purged all the photos when I chose not to get a paid account. But at least their price was more reasonable that what PB wants. The funny thing is that after I dumped Imageshack I joined PB and now I'm in the same boat again.
I only post to few online forums and now they all offer local storage for photos, so I'm all set.
-
Doesn't the spray booth contain all the overspray by design? I wouldn't worry about that (assuming that the spray booth is vented outside). Besides, those machines are made mostly out of metal with some engineering plastic - they are pretty robust. Or are you worried that metal chips or cutting oils will contaminate the spray booth?
-
Because this isnt the only forum that I post photo's on, silly huh ?
Photo's?
I wonder if you could upload the photos here and then link to them on other forums? But the admins here would most likely not appreciate the additional traffic that would generate. Never mind.
-
We're looking at doing that. If we can download the pictures from the links, we can probably write a program to update Harry's posts. Unfortunately the P'tak at Photobucket haven't made it easy.
I wonder if his children (Amy?) could provide Harry's username/password to Photobucket. Assuming that they even have that info. That way the albums could be downloaded easier than clicking each link to a photo in a post.
-
Since the admins here graciously opened up the ability to freely upload photos here, directly to the posts (without limits), why are we looking for a 3rd party photo hosts? The best way to make sure the photos stay with the thread for as long as the thread (and the forum) are up and online is to have the photos hosted locally on the forum.
-
Photobucket is disabling 3rd part hosting (which is what we do when we link to Photobucket images in our posts here) on free account in waves, so not everybody will see the problem at the same time. They disabled mine already. They will re-enable the functionality, but it will cost you $500/year.
Forum Admins: disabling quotas and allowing us all to upload our photos directly to this forum is an awesome news! I always preferred forums which allowed this. That way the photos will always be available, even in older threads, for as long as the forum is online.
Now if someone (with admin rights) would download all of Harry P's photos and upload them to the appropriate threads, that would be really good. That way we could preserve his legacy.
-
Peter, still though--it's the glass bottle that is the most expensive piece of the equation. Go check on the price of the smaller glass paint storage bottles that are out there for sale. Even if you take 45% off that retail price, at say, Hobby Lobby (which will result in approximately what those bottles cost FOB the glass bottle factory's loading dock, they are still costly. Even the likes of Paasche buy them by the thousands. By contrast, my pint 16 fl oz.) of MEK, in a metal can, set me back a whole $8 back in 2006.
Art
Art, here is the bottle Ambroid was sold in:
Cost per bottle (in quantity of 240-4200 is 52 cents a piece. More than 4200 is 39 cents a piece). Didn't look at the shipping cost, but I don't think it will be that significant when broken down to per-bottle cost. That is a fraction of the price charged by the bottle of glue.
But I do agree that buying industrial chemicals in larger quantities (like you or I do) is much less expensive than buying a bottle of hobby cement.
-
Well done Carl! I also like the color - you didn't see many blue TRANS AMs when these were new. One thing that bugs me is the lack of any separation line between the fenders and the nose. The plastic nose is a separate piece and on the 1:1 car there is a clearly visible seam.
You mention that those parts didn't fit well and you had to fill/sand them. But then you left that area smooth like the fenders and nose are single piece. I would have scribed in the separation line to make that area more realistic. Same goes for the rear bumper skin. There is a clear separation line there too. The taillight lens is heavily tinted on the real car, so I wouldn't have painted it red. This photo also shows the rear bumper seam.
I'm also not fan of whitewalls on a TRANS AM, but that is just a personal preference. Just like on real cars, I would have used the black-wall side of the tire or, removed the whitewall paint.
I hope that you don't think that I'm putting down your modelling efforts - I'm not. I do like your model. I just mentioned few things that I would have done differently.
-
I'm not a fan of black wheels in general, but the ones you found have a silver rim so they not bad. As far as the NT-03 wheels go, I'm not too crazy about the extra web inside the rim.
Hey man, it is your model, do whatever you like.
-
I don't know the original wheel specs but when I googled for "aoshima s parts wheel tire set" and looked at the images, I ran onto set #149. Looks pretty close.
-
Aoshima sells dozens of wheel/tire combos. They might have something similar. Fujimi also has some wheel/tire sets.
-
Looking good Wayne!
When I was growing up in Poland in the '70s there was a paper model periodical called "Mały Modelarz" or "Junior Modeler". I have built several of those models. I built a helicopter, a destroyer and few others. This brings back some memories.
-
Awesome modeling!
-
Others have recommended using a "real" paint stripper (which is correct) but nobody warned you about *NOT* using the purple stuff. The purple degreaser contains Lye which is caustic and will react with the metal. Don't use it on any metal parts! Especially aluminum (which is usually used in the alloy used for die-cast models)..
-
I disagree Art. At the quantities they buy their bottles (they buy them by the thousands), they are relatively inexpensive. So are the chemicals they pour into the bottles. The most "expensive" part of those cements in little glass bottles is the profit made by the company producing them. Same goes for hobby paints.
-
If you have an old transformer or electric motor for a slot car or model train, you have plenty of really thin copper (magnet) wire for free. Or even a single strand taken for a stranded copper wire. I doubt Michael's carries 0.005" wire. I kept telling you that bread-tie wire is way too thick.
-
Another vote for Tamiya tape - pricey but it works really well. It is more pliable and has a smoother adhesive surface than regular masking tapes. Well worth it.
If I have large areas to mask, I only use Tamiya tape on the perimeter of the masked area, and regular painter's blue tape to fill the remaining masked areas.
As far as the green Frog tape goes (at least the stuff I bought about 10 years ago to try), it is designed to work with water-based latex or acrylic paints (house paints). The edges are treated with special adhesive which is supposed to swell up when exposed to water to create a tight seal on the edge. That is what is supposed to prevent paint from seeping under it. That special adhesive does nothing for the organic-solvent based hobby enamels or lacquers we usually use for model cars.
I have never tired the yellow Frog tape so I don't know its special properties. As others mentioned, thoroughly burnishing the edge is important with all tapes. Also do not spray a wet coat of paint right away and don't spray against the tape's edge. Either spray perpendicular to the models surface or even slightly from the masked side.
Same techniques and components used by model railroaders and SciFi modelers can be applied to automobile models.
1988 - 1991 Ford LTD Crown Victoria Scratchbuild
in Car Aftermarket / Resin / 3D Printed
Posted
That '77 2-door LTD looks so much like the '77 T-Bird! I would be in for a '77 T-Bird as I owned one for a while (bought it from my mom). Plus, I think it is a really good (and unusual) looking car. How about a Merc. Cougar from the same era? Those were cool too.