peteski
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Posts posted by peteski
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Could you expand on your question? I never used UV lamp for photoetching. Just for developing the photo-resist.
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The easiest way to remove any CA from any of those tips is to hold it in the flame of a Bic lighter or candle for 5 seconds. Burns right off cleanly then wipe with a bit of tissue to get the carbon residue off. No fumes, acetone or mess. Ready for more work.
I enjoy scraping - seriously. Besides, burning CA glue does create a nasty odor.
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We all learned something new here.
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I use both - hobby knife with #11 blade about 90% of the time (sometimes with other blades) and a scalpel the other 10%. At some point hobby mail order companies (like Hobby Expo and Micro Mark) used to carry scalpel handles and blades. I'm not sure if they still do. Yes scalpel handles are smaller and thinner (they don't have a cylindrical-shape handle). The shape of the handle makes it easier to judge the angle of the blade. Their #11 blades are a bit smaller than hobby version and have finely honed blade. I also took a disposable scalpel (a #11 blade permanently attached to a plastic handle), trimmed the handle to about 1/2 length, and made it into a replaceable blade scalpel. That is my BMF tool: the short and very light handle gives me much finer control while trimming BMF. I use stainless blades and paint the tip with black Sharpie to make it easier to see.
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Here's my arsenal of CA aplicators. They are made from sawing needles and acrylic rod. It was not my original idea - I read about these decades ago in a magazine (probably FineScale Modeler). Also disposable Micro-Brushes as applicators for CA accelerator. When the needles get crusted up with hardened CA I use a hobby knife (with an older blade) to scrape the glue off. It doesn't take long and I like the ability to precisely apply just a tiny bit of glue where needed.
I'm not sure how well a calligraphy pen will work. Thicker CA might not flow easily out of it and the thin stuff will probably start crusting up in it (especially if the ambient air is humid).
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I thought your question was interesting so I looked it up. This is my understanding. The symbol # has always been known as a hash. It's also called the pound sign, number sign and an octothorpe (how 'bout that one) . Now it is used in social media applications like Twitter and Instagram to "tag" terms that are being searched in order to find them easier hence the term "hashtag". So technically I just removed the hash when I searched 1117. Sometimes you have to search several different ways but in the end Google knows everything. I'll count this as having learned something new today.
Yes, that is true - "#" has been used long before computers and "hash" is one of its names. It was (and still is) even used on the TouchTone telephone keypad along with the "splat" or asterisk. But like I mentioned, when I see it, the first thing that comes to my mind is that it indicates that the following number is some sort of part number. Or from my Unix background a hash symbol indicates that the rest of the line in a script is a comment (ignored). The "tag"meaning for me is far, far behind those. But I don't use Twitter or Instagram, so that's my excuse. I do know what hash tags are - they're just no something that first pops into my mind.
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#1117 is a hash tag?! That made me smile - thanks. I guess the world is changing - a character we used in the past as a prefix for a part number has become a hash tag.
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That's not been my experience, Peter. I did some clear "lenses" over molded-in-place chrome headlights on a couple of grilles about 9 months ago, they are still water-clear.
Art
Place a small puddle (about 1/4" diameter) on a piece of white paper (ink jet or laser printer paper). Don't make it too thin ( around 1/16" or a bit less). When in its liquid state it is perfectly colorless. Set it with the UV light. After it is set you can see that it picked up very slight amber tint. Very slight, but noticeable sitting on the white paper. At least that has been my experience.
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Has anyone tried using bondic on a painted surface?
Has anybody noticed the name of the Bondic website: Not a Glue! They have a nifty chart of what tasks Bondic can handle at Bondic-vs-glue . They also have an extensive FAQ page. I recommend reading it. Here are few examples:
If applied to smooth surfaces it seems to come off in one piece or chipped off easily but what if the surface is rough?
The rougher the surface the better! Bondic® isn’t a glue, it has some adhesive properties but it sticks to smooth areas using a lot of surface tension rather than stickiness. If you can let the liquid Bondic® get into cracks and crevices then it will hold incredibly well.Can Bondic® bond dissimilar materials. Specifically high impact polystyrene and sand paper?
It will work great in and on sandpaper and if you create some rough areas on the polystyrene that will allow the Bondic® to grip and you can get the LED UV light onto both, your good to go.How well does Bondic® work PVC tubing, Kevlar, or polypropylene?
Bondic® works very well PVC tubing, Kevlar, and polypropylene, you just need to follow our principles. The principle of sealing or attaching things with Bondic® is based on how the surface is prepared and generally you want to make a ring around the item to create strength. Sometimes you even drill holes in both surfaces to create extra strength -
Bondic is water-clear.
Art
It actually gets very slight amber tint after it sets, but still passable for clear resin.
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Modern technology is destroying our simple quality of life.
That's what every generation says (but I agree that this time around the change seems to be more severe than in the past).
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I've been drivin' for over fifty years, so I really don't need any voice in my vehicle tellin' me anything at all.
Today's cars won't talk to you, but will hit the brakes, turn the steering wheel and even parallel park your car for you. Actually some cars with speech recognition capability will also have a 2-way conversation with you. How's that for progress?
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And for people who found this car worthy of being modeled Tamiya produced a model of it (including the IRONMAN decals(.
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I want to repeat what has already been stated few times, yet the gauge is mentioned again as a valid diameter measurement.
WIRE GAUGE (AWG) IS THE SPECIFICATION FOR THE DIAMETER OF THE METAL CONDUCTOR. It does not include the insulation diameter (which is what we really need for our use in models). Insulation thickness is not standardized or universal. It will vary depending on the manufacturer, type of plastic used and on the voltage rating of the wire. The overall diameter of the wire and insulation is usually not specified by the manufacturers (or extremely hard to find). So while knowing the gauge of the wire only gives a rough idea about the relative thickness of the overall diameter.
Then by the same token when using non-insulated or enameled craft wire then the AWG size is a useful measurement. But in my experience I very seldom use that type of wire for modeling rubber tubing, hoses or insulated wires.
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ummm, not necessarily true.
The way I interpreted Harry's comment was that on your model the the decal goes right over the door line and it is solid red, even in the gap between the door and the fender. On the real car that is not done - the gap shows up as a dark line. If you were to take a a fine dark color marker and ran it in the door line, or apply a dark wash, the model would look more realistic.
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Joseph those pictures look excellent. Peter, I assure you if your molds and methods are done "right" a pressure pot is not necessary to achieve bubble free castings. Although I can see them being very useful depending on the materials and items your working with.
For simple molds, if the resin is fresh, and the ambient air is dry then yes, you can cast in open air. But other than that pressure pot is really required to produce quality bubble-free casting's.
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Excellent points all, and worth repeating.
Sure, repeat all you want but nothing will change . . .
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My answer would be to get an airbrush, but that is not what you are looking for. Did you try to warm up the spray can in lukewarm water before spraying?
As far as paint removal goes, is it the color layer or the primer layer which is not coming off?
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Using a pressure pot helps a lot in getting bubble-free castings.
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I agree with Pete - experiment on spoons. That is always good thing to do when you change paints or their formulation.
When I don't use lacquer thinner (I use the SCL brand) with hobby enamels, I use the thinner specifically made for that brand enamels. Like Pete said, thinners are mixture of chemical compounds. Odorless thinner might not be fully compatible with whatever paint you're thinning.
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I actually like that one (not sure why). Even have (still unbuilt) model of it.
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"Sto Lat"
Yeah, what he said!
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The longer we use the Internet, the more problems we will encounter. The more complex the websites get, the more bugs will show up. Also since the security is sorely lacing on most sites, hackers will eventually break in and create more problems. Then there are the DoS attacks which happen, causing more problems. It is just part of the online experience.
Isn't Flicker part of Yahoo (which recently admitted to a large data bread after they were hacked)? Give it some time and Flicker will have problems too.
Best way to handle photos relating to forum posts would be to host the photos locally on the forum. But that requires server space which most forums don't want to manage or can't afford. So we are at the mercy of the free photo hosting sites which will from time to time go offline.
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0.0075" wire can be used for spark plug wire in . . . 1:43 scale models.
Styling Snafus
in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
Posted
Speaking of Japanese car names, I've heard that the Mitsubishi Starion was actually supposed to be Stallion, but the Japanese had have a problem pronouncing el's and ahr's.