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peteski

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Posts posted by peteski

  1. I am a not a programmer, but I am an "advanced user" as some would consider it. My home PC is completely up to date at all times, and I use a good browser. But I cannot run PB with any sort of ad-blocking program otherwise it is impossible to get the necessary PB links to show. So I always feel like I'm going into PB "naked" as it were. And it is their ads and scripting that is the issue. Like I said, not a programmer, but I know a faulty, buggy site when I find myself on it.

    I've not looked for other sites over the years out of shear laziness and the fact that I've been on Photobucket almost from the week they opened shop. And really, until I joined up here my pic sharing had dwindled. But I am fed up enough I may spend some time looking.

    As for some comments along the lines of "it works fine for me", all I can say is look at the several posts in this thread and others saying essentially the same thing I am. P-bucket is on it's last legs with me. When PB went from the "hover your mouse over this blank space to make your link pop up", lots of users were confounded. I was not. I can figure out stuff like that. But when the basic process of loading pictures causes my browser to crash, and this is the only site to cause that, please don't blame ME because PB screwed the pooch.

    While I really don't like the PB user interface (including the fact that they use Flash to provide links to the photos), I have no problems with the site or with getting the links to the photos.

    I am still using Win XP, SeaMonkey (an oddball browser based on Mozilla, like Firefox), Older Java 1.7U51, Shockwave Flash 11.3 r300, NoScript AddOn, and my AdBlocker is active (as you can see by the sad puppy picture on the right side).

     

    PB1_zps36zd6577.png

  2. I am a not a programmer, but I am an "advanced user" as some would consider it. My home PC is completely up to date at all times, and I use a good browser. But I cannot run PB with any sort of ad-blocking program otherwise it is impossible to get the necessary PB links to show. So I always feel like I'm going into PB "naked" as it were. And it is their ads and scripting that is the issue. Like I said, not a programmer, but I know a faulty, buggy site when I find myself on it.

    I've not looked for other sites over the years out of shear laziness and the fact that I've been on Photobucket almost from the week they opened shop. And really, until I joined up here my pic sharing had dwindled. But I am fed up enough I may spend some time looking.

    As for some comments along the lines of "it works fine for me", all I can say is look at the several posts in this thread and others saying essentially the same thing I am. P-bucket is on it's last legs with me. When PB went from the "hover your mouse over this blank space to make your link pop up", lots of users were confounded. I was not. I can figure out stuff like that. But when the basic process of loading pictures causes my browser to crash, and this is the only site to cause that, please don't blame ME because PB screwed the pooch.

    While I really don't like the PB user interface (including the fact that they use Flash to provide links to the photos), I have no problems with the site or with getting the links to the photos.

    I am still using Win XP, Seamonkey (an oddball browser based on Mozilla, like Firefox), Older Java 1.7U51, Shockwave Flash 11.3 r300, NoScript AddOn, and my AdBlocker is active (as you can see by the sad puppy picture on the right side).

     

  3. As it has been said, Tamiya paints in litle glass jars are colloquially known as water-based acrylic enamels.  But in reality the solvent is not water but isopropyl alcohol, which is a mild solvent.   Those paints in my opinion they are more like a lacquer than enamel. Spray cans OTOH contain "hotter" lacquers based on stronger solvents like acetone.  Because of that, the hotter paint applied over the milder paint will most likely cause problems (as you witnessed) because the hotter paint's solvent can re-dissolve the milder paint.

    As far as what brands of paints I use, I have been in the hobby for decades so I accumulated a large stash of paints.  Testors and Model Master, Humbrol, Pactra, Floquil, Polly-S, Accu Paint, Tru Color Paint, Tamiya, Gunze Sangyo, Alclad, Metalizer, and several other brands I can't think of right now. I also have cans of household spray paints like Rustoleum. I have hundreds of bottles/tins and dozens of spray cans.  I prefer airbrushing so most of the spray can paint gets decanted for airbrushing.

    Here is my paint cabinet. All the drawers are full of paint bottles and the larger lower drawers hold spray cans.

     

    obj266geo190pg15p9.jpg

  4. Cling wraps have some sort of substance on the surface (plasticizer maybe) which gives them the clinginess. Sounds like it affected the paint surface.  If the paint is not completely dry, fuzzy toilet paper can also leave paper fibers adhering to paint.  I use Parafilm to cover larger areas. But if the paint is not fully hardened/cured, any type of mask or clingy covering can leave marks. In my experience Scale Finishes paint never fully hardens (it is dry, but soft) and it is prone to ghosting if not clear coated.  I think that Scale Finishes paint is a 2-part automotive paint sold without hardener.  Unless you get the hardener, the paint will not fully cure.

  5. ABS (Acrylonitrile butadiene styrene) is a type of styrene-based plastic fairly similar to Polystyrene (which modelers coloquialy call "Styrene").  ABS is also sometimes used for more recent plastic model kits. Both types of plastic can be welded using solvent cements used by modelers (even though the instructions on the bottle do not specifically say that).  If you want a specific solvent which mentions that it can bond both ABS and Polystyrene then use Plastic Weld from Plastruct.

    Of course CA glue will also work well on both of those types of styrene.

  6. Have you tried it. I have and it works, Using does not affect the Alclad.

    Ammonia applied to Alclad?  No I have not, but I know ammonia is a caustic chemical, and  that is why I stated that it "might" and not "will" affect the metallic paint.  The "might" part is a clue that I'm speculating and not speaking from personal experience.

  7. There are many photo hosting sites out there.  I originally started on Imageshack.us. It was free, then they went subscription-only and I declined, so I lost access to my photos and moved on.  I went with Photobucket.

    One thing that bugs me about all the websites is the fancy coding on the webpages.  I miss the really simple Web interface with just plain HTML. No fancy flash pull-down menus and other silly BLAH_BLAH_BLAH_BLAH which makes it slower to navigate the pages and extract links for the photos. I don't need all that bloat - just give me a simple page with bunch of thumbnails and links to the photos.

  8. In order for a model to be a 100% accurate replica of the real vehicle, you would have to take the real vehicle and shrink it at the atomic level. At this time this is impossible.   The model would be made out of metal (not plastic) and would have everything which 1:1 vehicle has (like a working engine and electric system, hydraulic brakes, climate control, etc.).

    As you can see, this to me seems like a silly question. :)  A plastic model of a real vehicle can only be an approximation of the real thing.

  9. By now all (or most) RFID cards have been taken out of circulation.  New cards either don't have the RFID circuit  (plain cards) or they have the new "smart" chip on them (with the matal contacts visible on the front of the card.  Those new cards cannot be read remotely - they have to be physically inserted in the smart card reader.  Those metal card wallets are no longer needed or useful.  it ssme that banks realided how easy was to skim the info from RFID cards so they dumped them.

    RFID card will have this symbol on it (and won't have any metal contacts on the card):

    rfid-credit-card.jpg

    The smart chip cards will have metal contacts on the front like this:

     

     

     

    LabeledSmartCard.png

    Both types of cards usually still have the old-fashioned magnetic strip on the back which also cannot be read remotely.

  10. Future (or whatever it is called nowadays) should not dull Alclad Chrome (or maybe only very slightly).  But if you apply Future, I would not recommend removing it afterwards.  Not only that the Future removal process (rubbing it with a Q-tip or similar) might damage the Alclad, the ammonia will probably do something nasty to the shiny metallic finish.

    I think that Cato was thinking of foiling over the Alclad areas. Foil is more durable than Alclad.

  11. The problem with flat clear coat is the same as with the flat new car paints (Not sure if those are still the cool thing): Flat requires very special care. If you aren't careful it can be easily scratched or repeated washing will polish the flatness out of the finish. Of course you can't wax it either.  If you want to see what I man, take some Dullcoted part and rub it with a towel. It'll loose the flat finish and will polish out.

  12. I'm not a subscriber, but I have to say that it was a great idea!  Thanks! :D

     

    But seriously, I do subscribe to couple of magazines which are delivered in poly-bags and they arrive in my mailbox perfect condition all the time (which cannot be said about the other magazines I subscribe to).

  13. Sounds like "a lot of work." It would be a big undertaking and would probably take awhile to get  the business going "full steam," especially if Don & Carol aren't willing to train anyone either.

    Even if they were willing to train someone, that doesn't guarantee that the product quality will remain the same.  It takes someone who is very fastidious, dedicated and also has talent for this type of work. Not everybody is cut out for this type of work.  Even if someone is an experienced resin-caster, their definition of quality might be much lower than Don's. They might for example cut corners and the products will be inferior quality.  It seems that nowadays more and more people don't have the dedication or drive to constantly do high-quality work.

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