peteski
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Posts posted by peteski
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INFO NEEDED , does any body know what kind of engine is in this kind of truck? i am having a hard time find this out
Joe, Revell made a kit of that truck - maybe you could buy one and use it for reference when building your large-scale version?
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How did you manage to duplicate this post 4 times? Are you a serial-poster?!
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I've been shooting Polly S since 1976 and have found the strainer to be necessary. As they say, YMMV!
Polly S is a water-based acrylic enamel. In time it will form a crust around the inside of the bottle neck. Pieces of that semi-hard paint will often chip off and fall into the liquid paint. Unlike lacquer paints which when hardened will eventually redissolve when placed in liquid lacquer solution, hardened enamel will never redissolve in liquid enamel. Those crusty bits are the stuff which contaminates liquid enamels.
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That looks really good. I agree that the bumper is too close to the headlights. The other thing that jumped out at me is the gap around the fuel door. It seems awfully wide and deep. The door lines seem much more subtle (which to me looks better).
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Thanks guys!
The model is a Gunze Sangyo 1:32 '57 Chevy Hardtop (curbside). Yes, a 1:32 scale kit. It is part of a series depicting cars of the '50s. The kits are really well done and seem to have good proportion and very nice detailing (especially for the smaller scale). I have few more built and few still waiting their turn on my workshop bench. The '59 Ford Skyliner was also featured in few BMF ads. Here are some rear views.
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Excellent idea but the headlight still looks a bit dull. Headlights in 1:1 cars are sparkly like cut diamonds. I wonder if you could use a mirrored rhinestone (as a reflector) behind the resin lens? That might brighten it up.
As far as Bondic goes, I bought mine at a local Target store. They have a while end-cap of one of the isles dedicated to "as seen on TV" items.
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For developing the photoresist I have built an UV light chamber using UV fluorescent tubes I bought at a local electronic supply store. But that cost me quite a bit more than $15. Before that I uses an antique sun-tanning lamp (from the '70s).
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Nice! Very realistic modeling - you are a scenery artist!
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Some nice (and advanced) modeling guys!
Mike what happened to all those Nn3 models? Do you still have them or did you sell them? Did (or do) you have a train layout?
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I asked one of the aftermarket resin casters if they would make those wheels (since the '77 Pacer was just released and it includes different kind of wheels). He didn't say "no" so I figured that would try to gauge interest in those wheels. But It seems that there isn't much interest (probably not enough for the resin caster to make it worthwhile for him). It makes sense that '77 Hornet used the same wheels (those were actually wheel covers for steel wheels, correct)?
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Yesterday's dashboards were very simple with 12 or less buttons, knobs, levers, etc. Some of today's new vehicles have 40+ buttons, knobs, levers, etc. Modern technology is destroying our simple quality of life.
Don't forget touch screens and integration with your "smart" devices.
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Another voice against the Ultra-Bright foil. Actually it was the reason my model ended up on the BMF packaging.
It was in the 1990s when BMF started having competition. Detail Master started producing their own foil and the sales pitch was that it was much shinier and brighter than BMFs. I bought some of the Detail Master foil and it stunk! Yes, it was brighter and shinier than BMF chrome foil, but it was also much thicker, less stretchy and didn't adhere well. I only tried to use it once and ended up peeling it off and using the BMF chrome foil.
After that BMF introduced their new Ultra Chrome foil. They also touted it as being more like real chrome. I suspect that was their answer to the competition. So I bought a sheet of BMF Ultra Chrome. It was almost as crappy as the Detail master. Same problems as I described above. I still have the unused sheet (I should chuck it).
Seeing BMF producing the Ultra Chrome foil made me worry that they will discontinue their regular Chrome foil (which while not as shiny was a pleasure to work with) and I wrote them a letter including couple of photos of my models. I asked for them to continue producing the regular Chrome foil and showing them that it looked great on my models. I received a reply (all by snail mail back then) stating that they had no intention of discontinuing the regular Chrome foil. El (the BMF proprietor) also asked me if he could use the photos of my models in BMF ads and packaging. Of course I agreed and the rest is history. As a "payment" I received several sheets of BMF foils, but the best payment is seeing my model on every BMF envelope!
I am still using those decades-old sheets (I'm a slow builder) and til recently I didn't even know that BMF introduced "new and improved" foil. But from what I see, the new foil is just as good as the original Chrome.
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Nevermind - just figured it out. Click on the black dot in front of the Subject line.
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In the past, before I logged out of the forum I would mark the site as read. When I returned and logged in again, The forums containing new posts show green "UNREAD" labels. Then within each forum the threads which contained added contents since I logged out would also have similar green tags. If I clicked on the green tag it would get me to the oldest "new" contents posted in that thread. It was very handy to catch up on the new posts.
Sometime last week the "UNREAD" tags have disappeared from the individual posts. They are still there for each forum which has new contents, but not the threads themselves. So there is no good way I know to get to the oldest New contents of the individual threads. Nothign has changed on my end (same browser, no updates, etc.) I have the same problem on 2 different computer using different browsers. I suspect the change was done on the forum website.
Anybody else noticed this? Any viable alternative for viewing new messages in a thread?
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I believe that these are the factory-stock wheels (and wheel covers) for that year Pacer.
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Frustrated that this very enjoyable thread is devolving into racist and bigoted bullsquirt.
More photoshops please.
Oh my! Someone making something out of nothing. My goodness. I'm a Pollack and d-a-m-n proud of it. I also enjoy good Polish jokes. Self-deprecating? Maybe. Not a bigot. If you can't take my joke (and see it as racist or bigoted, then you are seeing something that isn't there). If we all have to turn into humorless touchy-feely drones then I might as well hide in my workshop and stay of the Interwebs.
I do agree with you on one thing - more Photoshops lease.
PS. You probably won't find http://www.engrish.com/ amusing either - I do. I even submitted some entries from when I visited Japan. None of it was racially motivated or bigoted.
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What size tires were used on Paces? What other kit tires could be used to replace the crappy hard-plastic 2-piece kit tires?
There might be a chance that the wheels in this photo could be resin-cast. Maybe even tires too. Would there be any interest in these items?
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I have some N scale buildings to share, maybe I'll put together a post...
There are probably more model railroaders here than we realize. I'm also one - N-scale too.
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The $100,000 per year (each) car-naming team got one letter in the name wrong.
It shoulda been either Puke or Joke.
Speaking of Japanese car names, I've heard that the Mitsubishi Starion was actually supposed to be Stallion, but the Japanese had have a problem pronouncing el's and ahr's.
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Could you expand on your question? I never used UV lamp for photoetching. Just for developing the photo-resist.
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The easiest way to remove any CA from any of those tips is to hold it in the flame of a Bic lighter or candle for 5 seconds. Burns right off cleanly then wipe with a bit of tissue to get the carbon residue off. No fumes, acetone or mess. Ready for more work.
I enjoy scraping - seriously. Besides, burning CA glue does create a nasty odor.
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We all learned something new here.
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I use both - hobby knife with #11 blade about 90% of the time (sometimes with other blades) and a scalpel the other 10%. At some point hobby mail order companies (like Hobby Expo and Micro Mark) used to carry scalpel handles and blades. I'm not sure if they still do. Yes scalpel handles are smaller and thinner (they don't have a cylindrical-shape handle). The shape of the handle makes it easier to judge the angle of the blade. Their #11 blades are a bit smaller than hobby version and have finely honed blade. I also took a disposable scalpel (a #11 blade permanently attached to a plastic handle), trimmed the handle to about 1/2 length, and made it into a replaceable blade scalpel. That is my BMF tool: the short and very light handle gives me much finer control while trimming BMF. I use stainless blades and paint the tip with black Sharpie to make it easier to see.
How to strain small quanities of paint
in Model Building Questions and Answers
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Does it rub off the model when handled?