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Posts posted by peteski
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"M L"? That is 150 in Arabic numerals. 51 is "L I" - get you Roman math straight!
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Plain clear-film decal paper is for decals made by either hand-painting the images over the film, or printing using dry or wax inks/toners (laser printers, Alps MicroDry, or Xerox solid ink printers).
For ink jet printers (which use liquid inks) you have to use decal paper specifically designed to work with liquid inks. That type of paper has the clear film, but on top of that film it also has a special ink-absorbing coating. That layer absorbs and retains the ink where it was printed. If you try to use the plain clear-film with an ink jet printers the ink will just bead up on the paper surface.
As far as sealing the image after printing goes, that is required for ink-jet-printed decals. That ink is water-soluble and if not sealed it will run when immersed in water.
Laser-printed decals also benefit from sealing after printing because the toner deposited on the clear film will often flake off when flexed.
Alps MicroDry printers use wax ink which is waterproof and won't flake off, so no sealing is needed. By sealing Alps-printed decals all you are doing is adding more thickness to the clear film. But the Alps-printed decals should be coated with clear after being applied to the model (because the wax ink can be scratched off easily). The clear coat (after the decal is applied to a model) will also hide the clear decal film.
I've been printing decals on Alps printed for over 10 years and I have never found a need to apply clear sealer to the printed sheet - only after the decal is applied to a model.
Also a word of warning: Never use the ink-jet paper in Alps printers. That ink-absorbing layer is not compatible with the Alps printer - it can cause broken ribbons or even worse, damage to the print head. Alps used to include a pink-colored sheet with the new printers warning users not to use ink-jet print media. That warning sheet is usually lost when buying a 2nd hand printer.
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Yes, Micro-Mark sells "Same Stuff", but like I mentioned few posts above yours, you can get the same type of cement much cheaper from a hardware store.
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I concur: Quality products, easy ordering, and excellent customer support.
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Holly carp! I have no idea - that thing is just weird!
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When I was a teen building my models I used to brush-paint small parts on the tree. Now that my modeling skills have greatly improved, I remove all the small parts off the tree, prep them, pin them (or otherwise fasten them to some temporary holder), then airbrush them.
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The original EasyOff, Bleche White, and Purple Stuff all work well because . . . they all contain lye as an active ingredient. That is the stuff which can remove paint and eats aluminum (which is really what that "chrome" is). Doing this in a warm area also makes the lye work better.
Bleach and ammonia (Windex) might work but not as well.
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My reply is in the duplicate thread you posted.
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I have not run into Faller CA (super) glue. But I have used their solvent cement for styrene. Like others said, thhat glue dows not use an accelerator and only works on styrene and similar plastic. And as far as accelerators go, all accelerators for CA glues work with all brands of CA glue.
If you aren't sure, give the glue a sniff test. CA has a very specific odor - If you even smelled CA glue you'll know what it is.
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I found those 1/43 Monogram '67 Corvette and 427 Cobra a major disappointment when they came out. They were a pain in the you know what to build. And I would not buy them again if they ever reissued. But, 1/24 scale kits originally talked about in this thread, I'd love to see them come back.
Scott
I found the Monogram Ultimates to be wicked awesome models. They were molded very well with lots of details, vinyl tires, chrome parts and even a set of photoetched parts. Even the packaging was well done. For the price it was a bargain. The problem is that U.S. modelers aren't into small scale models - they all want 1:24/25 scale cars. Too bad that they didn;t sell well and more weren't made. Here is one after many hours of enjoyable modeling.
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I asked a young co-worker, who must use the word "awesome" at least three dozen times a day, "If everything even halfway cool is 'awesome,' then what do you say about something that's REALLY impressive and amazing and maybe at least a little bit scary?"
"Oh," she said, with no hesitation whatsoever, "that's 'epic.'"
So there's your free preview of the next word that will be overused into complete meaninglessness....
If you lived in New England (especially in the Boston area) you would hear people use the word "wicked", as in "wicked good" or "wicked awesome!"
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That have to be Lexan, normal plexi-glass or Acrylic sheet even at that thickness wouldn't last long enough even in a Briggs engine! What really surprises me is the plug location, it fire better if it was more centered over the piston!
True, but I suspect that a center hole for the spark plug would have weakened the clear head.
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Nice, but to get a baby-butt-smooth chrome finish they will have to be sanded/primed better.
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I had a tamiya ford mustang which the tyres seem to have dried out and split around the edges, and also the imax caddy I just built the tyres seemed to be covered in a mould, I washed it off in dish soap and dried them and within a day they were mouldy again. Bit annoying cos I wanted to use them on the rear of a hot rod
I doubt it is mold. Most likely some plasticizer leaching out. You could try to scrub them using 91% isopropyl alcohol or even naphtha (Ronsonol lighter fluid). That might take care of the problem.
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I've heard/read they are very good kits, too, but perhaps, like me, most people just don't find the subject matter appealing. The Cord is about the only kit which piques my interest, and the box art may be mostly to blame for that.
I think it is more than the box art - that car was way ahead of its time and had very pleasing contours. Auburn Boattail Speedster (from the same time period) is also a a very nice looking automobile.
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I tried contacting the seller through the "ask seller a question" when I hit send I was greeted with the message in red that said the seller doesn't offer combined shipping. Figuring that was the case I paid the invoice. Normally if I win a single auction I pay immediately, multiples I request a combined shipping and pay as soon as the seller replies. Since seller used eBay to automatically reply I paid the invoice. A buyer shouldn't have to go searching for email addresses elsewhere to contact the seller.
I think I see what happened. Again, it is eBay interfering with communications (not the seller). You most likely selected "ask question" then you were presented with a nifty list of various topics. One was probably "combined shipping" which you probably chose and was immediately told "no". I went through all of this too. I then tried again and chose "other" as the reason for contacting the seller and that allowed me to ask anything. So I simply composed a message which asked the seller about combined shipping and got a prompt response.
Again, it is eBay not the seller messing things up. I suspect that no-combined-shipping is the default selection whel listing on eBay and seller probably has to find a way to disable that.
I agree that buyer shouldn't have to go through hoops in order to contact the seller but again it is eBay which makes this harder. I too have been buying and selling on eBay since 1999 and I remember when you could freely and openly view and contact any user on eBay. Or view full eBay history of users who were bidding against you. That ability is long gone.
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Cool! I'm also surprised with how long the clear plastic (Lexan?) head lasted being burned by exploding fuel.
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Skip, you never answered my original question: Was your combined shipping invoice request rejected when you tried that at the checkout time? Did you contact the seller through "ask seller a question" in one of the listings of the items you won? Like I said, eBay is doing some funny things and sometimes sellers aren't even aware of that.
As far as what packing material is used, IMO that should not even be considered as long as it was packaged well and arrived undamaged.
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This is an interesting thread! I live here in Finland and I definitely speak American even though sometimes I'm mixing things up with a British word. But, since I've mostly learnt this vocabulary in the internet or books and during my whole life we've had US cars in our family, most of the words I've learnt are US. Actually many of those British words are something I've never heard before.
But the word learnt you are using repeatedly is more common in British English. https://en.oxforddictionaries.com/usage/learnt-vs-learned
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Bituminous Concrete and Tarmac are exactly the same thing--just two different names. Ask any civil engineer.
Correct, but I don't recall the last time (other than yours) anybody mention Bituminous Concrete in any sentence. In a casual U.S. conversation the stuff used on the roads is called asphalt or pavement. But I suspect that Brits use the word Tarmac in casual conversations.
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Peter, all you have to do is go to Sweden. I'm sure Charles would let you stay in his shed while you light up his dio. That way you'd save on the motel
That would be nice. Yeah, I could "work" for room and board.
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3 feet (or 36 inches) away? And you were able to get some paint on the part you were painting?
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I had Sharpie ink attack (craze) clear styrene.
As far as plated backup lights go, I used some 5-minute epoxy with talcum powder mixed in (which makes it a milky translucent color) applied over the chrome. Like I'm making a lens over the chromed one. But some 5-minute epoxies will yellow after few years making the lights look yellowish. If I ever have to do that again, I will mix talcum powder with Bondic and apply that over the chrome lens.
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I'm pretty sure it is IMAI/IMEX (Japanese) kit. Nice build!
Super Bowl 51
in The Off-Topic Lounge
Posted · Edited by peteski
You are correct guys - I had a late-night brain fart.
I just noticed that the thread title was changed to "MI" That is 1001 in Arabic numerals, and still wrong.
To be honest using Roman numerals is silly. They should just stick to the Arabic numerals (that is the ones we use in English speaking nations). Or if they really want to be different then use some of the pretty numerals like they use in Thailand or Malaysia.