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peteski

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Posts posted by peteski

  1. I have been using their paints for model RR subjects and they are excellent. But I do thin them further for airbrushing.

    I'll eventually be looking at their new automotive model paints too.  I have never tried their masking system (I use the old tried-n-true Tamiya masking tape, other masking tapes, liquid masking agents, and Parafilm.

     

    I wonder if the masking paper is similar to Frisket film used by artists.

  2. We all have our techniques - it doesn't mean that what others do is or isn't correct. I just describe what works for me.  If we start going by what wins contests then I have taken first place awards at contests with models painted with no primer.  ;)

    Snake 45. Pigments are solid (like in a powder form). Pigmented plastic is opaque. But many yellow or red plastics are semi-translucent and I suspect that they use dyes (not pigments) to tint those plastic. .As far as dyes leaching out of plastic, that is not a myth. It has happened to me and to other modelers I know (or read about in the forums). As I see it, the solvents in paint cause the dye leaching.  But those solvents are also mildly destructive to the plastic itself. If you tried to remove all the dye for the plastic using that solvent, the plastic itself would be destroyed.  That is my best explanation.

     

     

  3. To You and your Friend - EXCELLENT execution!! So........... when are the Bumper Cars going to be placed in Motion??? :P

    Thanks everybody!

     

    I was asked about making the cars actually move. One possibility would have been to use some sort of vibrating floor to make the cars randomly dance around; like the old football game table. Another possibility was to use magnets on the cars and on a set of moving gears under the floor.  But where they are located (and with the roof over the track) the cars aren't very easily visible to spectators. So it wasn't really worth the effort. Plus this is a portable setup, so there would be a good chance that the cars would fail out during moves and transport.  We ended up modeling the time when people are getting on for the next ride.

  4. If painting using hobby paints I try to avoid primer as much as possible (to minimize paint thickness).  If using hotter paints, primer is needed to act as a barrier to prevent the hot solvent in the paint from crazing the styrene body.

     

    Of course if the plastic body is bright red and I want to paint it white, I will use primer, or even additional barrier coats, even when using hobby paints (to prevent the red plastic dye from bleeding into the white paint).

  5. For many years a friend of mine and I were collaborating on his model of a carnival in N-scale (that is a model train scale of 1:160).  He built the models and I animated and illuminated them.  The scene resides on a pair of NTRAK modules which we display at the local model train shows.  Here is an older video showing the original midway.

     

    Couple of years ago my friend wanted to expand the midway by adding another couple of feet to the module set. One of the rides was going to be bumper cars. Since there are no commercially available models of N-scale bumper cars I offered to make them for him. I decided to make a master and cast them out of resin.

    The carnival is set in late 1960s or early 1970s. I first gathered some photos of bumper cars. I then got some rough dimensions.  These are the prototype on which I loosely based my model.

    N_BumperCars15.jpg

    I started with a piece of acrylic (Plexiglas) which I cut to the scale length and width of the car.  The scribed mark denotes how high the car needs to be.

     

    N_BumperCars01.jpg

    Then I planned on how to get to the shape I needed.

     

    N_BumperCars16.jpg

    Next, using a saw, files, and dental grinding bits in a Dremel tool, I removed all the material which was not the bumper car's body.    I then scribed the front grille and a trim line around the body.  Finally, I polished the body using an 4-grit fingernail polishing stick.

    N_BumperCars02.jpg


    The steps which I didn't photograph (I should have) were milling machine operations: Using a 0.025" mill bit I made a hole for the electric pickup pole in the rear and holes for 0.025" styrene rod I would use for the headlight pods.  Then I glued in the styrene rod and trimmed it  to represent the headlight pods.  I then separated the car body from the rest of the acrylic piece.

     

    N_BumperCars03.jpg

    Then, using a piece of 0.032" acrylic sheet, I made the "rubber bumper" base for the car.

     

    N_BumperCars04.jpg

    Base glued to the car body (using a methylene chloride based liquid cement).

     

    N_BumperCars05.jpg

    I then glued the master pattern to a flat acrylic base.

     

    N_BumperCars06.jpg

    Using masking tape, I created a dam to hold the RTV rubber and ...

     

    N_BumperCars07.jpg

    ...poured the liquid rubber into the cavity.  Once the rubber hardens, I remove the tape and pull the rubber mold off the master.

     

    N_BumperCars08.jpg

    It is a simple 1-piece open mold. I just poured the resin until the cavity was full. Here is the first molding popped out of the mold.

    N_BumperCars09.jpg

    I also went a little nuts: I photoetched the steering wheels.  Then I soldered them to a steering column made from a 0.010" brass rod.

     

    N_BumperCars10.jpg

     

    Steering wheels ready to be painted black.

     

    N_BumperCars11.jpg

    A finished bumper car.  The body and the bumper areas were airbrushed with Scalecoat II paint and the seat and grille/headlights were brush painted (under a microscope).

     

    N_BumperCars12.jpg

    Here is a couple on a Nickel ....

     

    N_BumperCars13.jpg

    And a whole gaggle of finished models.  :)  Before you ask, yes, I had to cut off the feet of the figures before I plopped them in the cars.

     

    N_BumperCars14.jpg

    I'll try a 2-tone paint job on the next batch I'll make. I am totally nuts for making them this detailed, since they will be placed  inside a covered arena, viewed from about 2 feet.  But I just couldn't help myself...


    Here are the bumper cars placed on the track.

     

    N_BumperCars18.jpg

    N_BumperCars20.jpg

    And a night shot.

     

     

    N_BumperCars19.jpg

    Here is an overall view of the new part of the midway. This is an early photo, before the people figures and final detailing was done.

     

     

    N_BumperCars21.jpg

     

    This is a newer video showing the entire midway.

     

  6. I just mentioned this on another thread: used cars are now called certified pre-owned vehicles!  That also means the price is higher. :wacko:

     

    I also work for a large corporation and sometimes have to communicate with Indians (dot, not feather). :D  I often have to "do the needful" and "revert back" "urgently".   That drives me u[p the wall!

     

    And now for some more fun reading I'll bring you few gems from The Oatmeal grammar comics (I highly recommend visiting that site for some amusing grammar instructions)

     

     

    definitely.png

     

    then.png

    how.png

  7. I used to love TV dinners! :lol:

    Speaking of which... when was the last time you heard them called that? :P

    Only when discussing them with old farts like us!  Ask any 20- or 30-somethign and they will give you a blank stare.  They are now called "frozen entreé". Just like used cars are now "certified pre-owned vehicles". :wacko:

    Going back to TV dinners, they came on aluminum trays.  You had to peel off the aluminum foil cover over the brownie or the apple pie. Couldn't heat them up in a Radarange...

     

    800px-1971rr4.jpg

  8. While I have seen some amazing-looking models with unpainted (polished) bodies, you have to make sure that the plastic is not slightly translucent. If it is, even polished, it will look plasticky. In my experience bright red or yellow plastic is often translucent. Easy test: look at a light source (like a table lamp) through the body. you'll be able to easily see whether the plastic is opaque or translucent.

  9.  

    Another more readily available alternative might be to simply tin the bolt heads with a soldering iron and electrical solder.

     

    Using electroless plating you can dump 100 bolts in the plating solution and do them all at the same time.  Tinning using a soldering iron woudl have to be done one-at-a-time. Also, plating results in a nice even satin finish. Not so when using soldering iron.  But yes, it is an alternative.

  10. That is some really great modeling Brandon!

    One thing that looks a bit odd to me is all the brass bolts. real car would not have those in brass color (unless someone painted or plated them). They to me would look more realistic if they were silver.  When I use brass hardware in this type of application I always tin plate them. That gives them a dull silver finish which to me better.  You can pickup the plating kit from http://www.caswellplating.com/electroplating-anodizing/tin-plating-kits/electroless-tin-plating-kits.html or also from electronic supply companies.  Sometimes it also comes in powder form (to be dissolved by the user) which is easier to ship.

    Another alternative would be to blacken the brass bolts using one of the chemicals from https://www.jaxchemical.com/products.html

    I can't wait to see that car in white!

  11. I read somewhere a while ago that the Scions were rebadged Dihatsu's. Anyone know if that is true or not ?

    Nope.

    It is pure Toyota (made in Japan).  All the parts have Toyota markings on it and the xB was sold as Toyota bB in Japan. I read that it shares its drivetrain with Toyota Echo.

    We had a 09 XB...ran and drove great but got very poor gas mileage (geared too low and poor areo) and while it was trouble free it wasn't as well built as our previous Toyotas.

    I agree 100%. The first generation xB was cuter and better than the second generation (2008 and up) xB. I usually get mid-30 MPGs in my 2006.

  12. Thank you Scott, I´ll do my best :rolleyes:

    Petski, I have read the “link”, but apparently not good enough. I missed the part about Sweden. I order from Amazon. But I will check if the “Future” is available in our stores.
    Thank you for the information. 

     

     

    You're Welcome Bo.

    That website has this info about Sweden: Some members of IPMS Stockholm have been using a product from S.C. Johnson Sweden, called Pledge Klar Polish. It can be bought in ICA and COOP Supermarkets. Dan the Droid Building Viking reported this information for our use - thanks Dan.

  13. I know a pilot that will be retiring in the next couple years, the bankruptsy killed his pension, but are they going to do anything to correct this with their pilots, probably not.

     

    Not sure what that has to do with low oil prices and airlines making record profits.  Sounds like that airline wasn't very healthy to begin with, or maybe it declared bankruptcy to get rid of debts (like pensions).

  14. I tried decanting with drilling a hole in the top about 3 years ago and that was a disaster. Now I have set up the cans with glueing round styrene tubing into the nozzle and get just enough to airbrush the parts I am working on.

     

    I decant paint using spray nozzles with a small tube (like the one in WD40).  Only after the can is empty (by leaving the nozzle open until all the propellant is gone) I use a pair of dikes to puncture a hole on the bottom of the side wall and drain the remaining paint. Then I again use a pair of dikes  to pry around the top cap which holds the valve. Next, I pull that cap off giving me full access to the interior of can. I then remove the marbles and the siphon tube. Both can be useful for hobbies.  Last thing is to put the completely drained and open can in recycling.

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