peteski

For some reason Trumpeter instead of the typical vacuum metalizing using aluminum (like most model manufacturers), actually used electroplating process to cover the plastic with relatively thick layer of metal. I don't think it is actual chrome but it will be very though to remove. There have been threads here about this in the past. Just have to find one. EDIT: I looked and no luck. Looks like nobody found any simple or easy way to remove it.

Not quite. As you found out, there are different ways to "plate". The chrome electroplating process of things like vintage car bumpers requires a lot of nasty chemicals. Things like headlight buckets are likely vacuum metalized (just like it is done for plastic kit's "chrome" metal parts). The metal is usually aluminum, not chrome and no nasty chemicals are involved. Besides, most new cars usually use some sort of projection headlights which do not have the typical reflector you would see in conventional halogen headlights. But if chrome electroplating is banned, how will people be able to restore vintage cars? I think this planet is getting out of control as far as the environmental craziness goes.

Model? The price seems to indicate that it is 1:1 scale.

I also had one of those acrylic resin temp. crowns break on my several years ago on my back molar. I just cleaned it really well in 99% IPA and glued it back together using CA glue. Then I put it back in and the temporary cement was still on the tooth stump. It held until my permanent crown arrived. Of course I was not chewing on that side.

Exactly. While it was not specifically mentioned in the initial post I could only assume that the reason for removing "without destroying them" for re-using.

Yes, decals can be removed using various methods, but the OP asked specifically "without destroying them".

It might be a great idea, but in today's world someone would complain and kill it. After all, you can buy a gun and ammo without taking any training, so why would you need it to drive a hot car? Both guns and cars can be deadly. It is not about being a good driver - it is about being silly macho guy, and not thinking of consequences. You know? Like begin responsible for your actions. It's just people being stupid. You can't fix stupid. Those muscle cars can be driven gently. Nobody (but someone's dumb brain) forces them to step hard on the gas pedal.

Not that I know of. The decal film is much thinner than human hair and very fragile. If decal setting solution was also used, then the film pretty much melted into the paint.

Blow the lint off using compressed air. If you have a compressor make sure that oil/water trap is installed so the air is clean. Or maybe use those "blow-off" aerosol duster cans. If the lint is really stuck on, use one of those (again clean) makeup brushes while blowing the model clean.

Not always. Some brands of rubbing alcohol also contain other (lubricating) additives for easier rub-downs. Better to just go for the bottles labeled "Isopropyl alcohol". And yes, I'm aware that (likely distilled) water is added to dilute the IPA to whatever strength it is sold at.

I wonder if those are fisheyes? Those are often caused by traces of silicone contamination. Did the primer pull away in those spots, down to bare plastic? The body might need a wash in something stronger than Dawn. You could try 91% Isopropyl alcohol. But stay away from Rubbing Alcohol - it has additives. I assume you will strip the primer. That process itself might be enough to wash away any contamination. I'm also wondering if there is something in your nitrile gloves causing this?

Growing up in Poland I also build several paper models. There was actually a periodical with paper models in each issue. It was called Młody Modelarz (Young Modeler). Some larger kits took up more than one issue. I remember being impatient waiting for the next issue to complete the model. I remember building a helicopter (fairly large, probably 1:48 scale), and a WWII era destroyer. That one was split into multiple issues, and it was quite long (probably around 24"). Unfortunately both models are long gone.

If you look at the other photos it actually looks good, but too rich for me.

Nice, and it was from the Boston area. WBZ radio station is still around.

Different plastic formulations? When using paints not made to be polystyrene-safe, we always play Russian Roulette with our paint jobs.

Very nice Eric! I'm into N scale (1:160) model trains and I have also built few of miniature cars. These are smaller than a typical 1:25 scale V8 engine.

Not sure why the hate. Most contests have this class for modelers who simply want to build a model as it came from the kit's manufacturer, without any aftermarket items added. Some modelers just want to keep their builds simple, or they don't feel they have the skills to come up with a model will fairly compete in standard classes. Since it is a judged class, the rules are there so someone doesn't sneak in a model with extra details added. Here are the rules my club uses for that class: BOX STOCK: Finishing materials such as paint, metal foil, flocking and/or aftermarket decals are allowed. No other modifications or added details are permitted except as follows: Putty may be used to fill seams and/or to correct manufacturing flaws such as sink marks. Removal of details such as door handles, chrome trim or incorrect/extraneous underbody details are also allowed. Kit instructions MUST accompany the entry.

Interesting. Here is my model. Yellow plastic body airbrushed with Tamiya fine white primer, nail polish metallic blue, and Testors Wet Look Clear top coat. It want on smoothly and glossy. No rubbing, no polishing. Maybe it was humid when you clear coated and it "blushed"?

I have never seen (Testors) Model Master paints attack or etch polystyrene or ABS plastic kits. Even applied without a primer. I have painted many kits over bare plastic using Testors and Model Master paints. Those paints are mild, specifically formulated for plastic compatibility. Unless of course something changed in the last few years. Still, these hobby paints are sold as such. Are you sure it is not the primer that is etching the plastic?

That is not something you'll likely find in a supermarket of a pharmacy. They usuaklly carry 91% IPA. Look for it in the paint thinners isle of your hardware store. Ive seen it called 99 IPA or Isopropanol 99. Will probably be about $30/Gal. The price got jacked up during the COVID pandemic and has not dropped.

Thanks. I am well aware that not all diodes have glass envelopes - that is why I specifically selected 1N914. 1N4148 is a similar diode. I've been involved in electronics for over 45 years (both professionally as an electronics technician, and as a hobby). And I also agree that all sorts of items unrelated to plastic model car kits are used for detailing. Just recently we had a thread about this (and I also use non-modeling items for detailing my models). Many aftermarket parts companies repackage various non-model-related items for use in modeling.

I believe they were diodes, not resistors. Diodes have glass envelope while resistors are not see-through. The small diodes actually do make good fuel filters. But yes, the point is that electronic components can be used in our hobby. Just like some use wire wrapping wire for scale ignition wires. Here is a 1N914 diode, They can be had for few cents a piece from electronic parts distributors like Digikey or Mouser electronics.

Aren't computers fun?

The K&S sheets were very handy but it looks like they are discontinued. https://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/k+s/k+s1307.htm https://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/k+s/k+s1308.htm Looking at the K&S website it appears they no longer offer any plastic for sale - just metal.

While more sad than irked, I'm bummed out that Little Motor Kar Company has shut down. The last company that was re-plating model car parts. But I'm also irked at myself for having bunch of parts I wanted to send out to them and procrastinating! I still prefer vacuum metalized parts than painting them with one of the several available "chrome" paints.