peteski

Yeah, we have a very similar active discussion is just few threads under this one.

That doesn't change the question some are asking; What is included? Waterslide Transfers, or Waterslide Transfer?

Molotow is spelled with a "w".

What does that mean? Your photos show painted seats and a blurry thumb.

Looks good. Never seen orange or black tape.. For masking models Tamiya tape can't be beat. It is basically "washi tape" which nowadays you can likely find cheaper than the Tamiya brand if you look for it in arts/crafts stores.

Eat some potato chips before the next test.

Might be funny, but as a kit you likely weren't even using a clear coat, spray-bombed or maybe even brush-painted your models with basic Testors PLA enamels or Pactra paints, no airbrush, and likely didn't use aftermarket parts, etc., etc. All of the adult modelers can pretty much relate to what you mentioned, but it is not a good comparison. If you want to be on a budget, go pick up some glue and paints from a dollar store, and find some inexpensive kits. That way you can model on a budget, like when you were a kid. We can't go back to the good ol' times. That ship has sailed, never to return. But is it fun to remember those good ol' times.

If used after final paint polishing silicone will not cause problems. It is absolutely safe for plastic and for hardened/dry paint. But generally I would avoid silicone anywhere near my hobby workshop or paint booth, because even the smallest amount on the surface of items being painted will cause fish-eyes. So from that angle I would stay away from any silicone-containign products on my hobby workbench.

Thanks for the chuckle Carl! But if you tip over the orange juice container, you will have an even bigger mess. Orange juice *AND* Loctite mix!

That is the problem with how things work in our culture. We seem to give all the praises only after the individual has passed on. Not very useful for the person being praised, but makes the still-alive people feel better.

Yes, the body and interior shapes look a bit cartoonish (if that is a good description), but you did a great job on the finish. Nicely done!

There are other celebrities who are model railroaders. To bring up couple which come to mind are: Rod Steward - he has a large H0 layout at his home. It was featured in the Model Railroader magazine some years back. Sally Jessy Raphael (talk show host from the '80s) used to model in N and Z scales. There is some more info about this on https://www.smarttinc.com/who-plays-with-model-trains/

Wow! I have never seen these before. Were the entire bodies molded from fiberglass, or were the flares add-ons, just blended into regular steel bodies?

No problems linking to external photos/websites or uploading photos to your posts. Fire away! Unless new members maybe have some restriction for uploading photos. I don't think so.

Exactly! No blingy, shiny chrome - just sating black. Testors likely first created that particular color around the time this "sporty" look started being popular on 1:1 cars.

Thank you for that David. That is exactly what I remember being called black chrome (or blackout chrome). Not the shiny dark metallic color which is apparently also called black chrome. Back around the same time I did the this with my '76 Camaro. I painted the window trim, etc with satin black paint. Black chrome baby!

You shouldn't even have to make a decal. Just print it out on paper, cut it out and attach it to the model. If you use photo quality paper, it will even have glossy surface.

I realize that Bill, but as long as I remember, Testors black chrome implied satin black (just like Trevor's photos show).

As I remember, this is simply a satin black paint which is often used in moldings which would otherwise be chrome (or shiny silver). Not flat, and not glossy. BMF black chrome is also to be applied to trim pieces which should be black instead of metallic chrome, but it doesn't produce as good of a result at the paint. Foil remains shiny, and the black color doesn't look like the black trim should look like. Not sure why the name is suddenly being questioned. Both BMF and Testors have used that name/description for many years.

Wow! Thank you!

I'm not questioning your experience, but you just arbitrarily stated that it the clear coating does not yellow, without providing much detail. Comparing your differing experience to mine (I'm also like you, not a young or inexperienced idiot), I simply asked for more details. I will trust but verify, especially when it comes to things I read on the Interwebs (which is *FULL* of young, inexperienced, and/or clueless people). Just ask @Ace-Garageguy . To be honest, with 68 posts under your belt, I just don't know how much experience you have, or how reliable your info is. So don't get in a huff when someone asks you for more details about some product you tried and touting to others. When you, like me, have been around this forum for quite a while, you'll learn to question new product or technique someone touts here.

So it's a rather small logo (like 1")? Your theory that it might have came off some box (like a watch, jewelry or perfume) might actually be on target.

What color is your project? White or some very light color? If it is was a darker color, the yellowing would not be very apparent.

You might think twice before clear coating any lighter colors with Minwax Urethane anything in general. In my experience it the Minwax urethanes (from a can, not sprays) will turn greenish amber as they age.

Is this specifically model related (since you posted it in a model specific Q & A section). If not, then the best plaice for this would likely be in the off-topic section. No I'm not playing a backseat moderator - just stating my personal opinion. In any case, if you revealed where that log came from might help others to identify it.