peteski

Yes, that's what I was going to suggest. Works really well for larger scale models, but even with the weave and overall thickness being a bit out of scale for 1:24/25 models, I think it will look good.

Is that a pedal car for adults, or does it have an engine in it? Or maybe just bunch of hamsters running it? If there is an engine, it must be in the rear because the driver's legs are probably taking up most of the under hood space.

How about the Gunze Sangyo kit? I read it had some problems too.

Excellent job. Love the spoke wheels add very realistic coloring. I'm pretty sure if it was photographed against a natural background, it would easily pass for 1:1 bike.

Sure, it is underground in your development, but that is just last several hundred feet. Outside of your development the utilities come back up to regular utility poles and subjected to a typical damage by the weather or careless drivers.

Exactly. I was simply amused by the phrase Indie Pail (as in "bucket") Ale. I had no idea that there are beverages called "pail ale".

I like Pail even better! While I have never had to strip paint from resin body, I would think that glycols (which are ingredients of brake fluid, and some paint strippers like ELO and Tamiya), would attack resin. Also keep in mind that not all resins are the same. There are different brands and formulations used by different resin casters. Some might be unaffected by certain strippers, while other might get damaged. It would be wise to be careful while stripping any sort of resin item (and not fully depend on anecdotal information provided by well-intentioned forum members). Over the years I read many horror stories about resin bodies getting damaged by various strippers.

That is guaranteed, but the sky might be overcast.

Unfortunately this is quite common in the world we currently live in. While not too dangerous in this instance, but the same thing happens with political views, and there the problem is much more severe. People seem to live in their own little world of their "facts", and no matter how much proof you feed them showing that their facts are not correct, they just don't accept of believe your proof. I hope some day we can break out of this cycle (but it doesn't look too good).

"Should be" is the key phrase. In some states (like California) it is banned as a hazardous chemical, so paint stores do not carry it. Unfortunately.

Excellent model, and the display base is also very well done!

That brings up another item left in the past. Remember when dealerships had printed brochures describing a new car? Many mid-price car ones ones had actual paint chips in them for color selection. Not some printed representation of the colors (which is never really "close enough", especially with metallic color), but actual pain chips! That way you could get a good idea what the color of your car would be. Now all you have is virtual previews of the vehicles on the Interwebs. Not quite the same.

Some new SUVs have 2-tone paint. Usually the body is one color and roof is black (not a full glass panel roof either - painted black). I have seen some Kia Souls which were black/red.

I mentioned 1:24 for the 1:25 scale purists. And yes, in the past, there were scale variations you mentioned, but most modern kits (where CAD and often actual factory drawings were used to make the molds), are usually quite close to their specified scale. Scale doesn't bother me. I build vehicle models anywhere from 1:6 to 1:160 scale.

No Calvin, that will not work. Well, if you have a factory "chromed" plastic part and you just need to touch up a small area (like where you cut off the gate that held the part to the parts tree), then you could dab some Alclad II Chrome to that area using a very fine brush. But not if you want to brush paint the entire part. You shouldn't tack on questions in a thread which is covering different subject. Just start a new thread/topic. I know you are new here, that is why I'm trying to give you a hint.

Topher, you're new here, but this is a model car forum full of plastic addicts. You should know better to ask such a loaded question. Size of your stash threads are started here quite regularly. Some members have thousand kits or more. Here is such thread I found in a quick search for "stash". And this one is one is not ll that over-the-top.

As I see it, if you really think that Tamiya will produce a (1:24 scale of course) model of '32 Ford, you will have to wait for a very, very, very long time. As in "past your life span". Like Tom wrote "don't hold your breath". The odds are more likely that one of the Eastern European model companies would make such models. Some of companies make some excellent quality models (almost in Tamiya's league).

There was also Tamiya Isuzu Vehicross.

Each tool has its own specific uses. Razor saw is for heavier jobs, photoetched saws are very delicate precision saws. Just like what Ace mentioned. I have both kinds of saws and use them for their appropriate tasks.

Many of you probably don't remember inkwells in your school desks. I do (and the mess we used to make back in the 1st grade). Based on that idea, just drill a hole in your workbench to hold the glue bottle. Unless you flip the bench over, there is no chance of spilling the glue!

Do you have the chipped piece of paint by chance? Something similar happened to me on one or my models (on the A-pillar) and I simply glued the chipped paint back in place. A tiny bit of clear lacquer can be used as adhesive. If not then your idea sounds usable. Make sure the decanted paint thickens enough to stay in the chipped area and fill it. Don't add any thinner. You can dab the paint on some surface other than the model to get the hang of applying it. To be honest I'm not even really sure where in the photos the chipped paint is.

I find it interesting that I'm getting plenty of likes at my earlier suggestion to add your location to your signature, but except for me nobody seems to be actually doing that. See my signature. It is easy.

The ineptitude is rampant all around us!

If up to me, I would finish it and build it as stock (not low rider), just like Harry intended. In his memory (and also because I'm not a big fan of the slammed looks in general). If this really is one of the first "crew cabs" then the model would also have automotive historical value.

Thanks, I'm not on FB, but this is for a friend and I think he is on FB. My friend is also not a very advanced modeler. You probably don't offer a more complete kit?