peteski

In my experience actual polycarbonate bends instead of snapping. Acrylic (Plexiglas) will snap. Sometimes those two can be confused as they are similar visually. If it is only 0.010" thick, polycarbonate it can easily be cut with scissors. Acrylic might crack when cut with scissors.

You can also use clear plastic, then once the taillight is shaped paint it with one of the transparent red hobby paints. Like we have to do when kit's taillights are molded in clear plastic.

It cures by chemical reaction similar to 2-part epoxy resin adhesives or even urethane resins used to make resin models, or even the 2-part polyester putties (like Bondo). If you leave some 2K paint in the airbrush, it will harden sold. Not dry, but harden.

I agree in general, but in this specific instance it doesn't really matter since both black and sliver are very opaque. Ether can fully cover the other. But even then, to me it makes sense to paint the silver first, mask it, then spray the black. Now I'm wondering in what order the 1:1 cars were painted.

You are correct of course. My goal was to point out that in the household bleach it is lye (sodium hydroxide) that reacts with aluminum in the "chromed" plastic parts. The chlorine (in the form of sodium hypochlorite) does the actual bleaching of laundered fabrics. At least that is how I understand this.

Not aware of any companies offering to use Alsa system on your parts. But Alsa does sell small kits of their product for individuals to use.

Ken, Trumpeter "chrome" is *NOT* a typical aluminum coating used in other kits. It is some different metal electroplated (much thicker layer) onto the plastic. But I'm glad that whatever you came up with worked for you. Be very careful with such strong solution of sodium hydroxide. Best to use glass container. BTW, most household bleach contains a blend of both, chlorine (sodium hypochlorite) and lye (sodium hydroxide).

You might get lucky at your local beauty supply shop. Or at a nail polish sections of a pharmacy, supermarket, or even dollar store. Beauty supply story would likely have the largest selection.

Well, just because someone took the mandatory education and know how to handle the vehicle, there is no guarantee that they still won't make a dumb choice and go wild. Some people can't help themselves. They just don't think of consequences. Call me cynical.

The text on that page states We offer a complete headlamp re-silvering service and we can restore all types of headlamps even sealed beam units! But we can only do them if they are metal and not plastic and we can remove the metal part from its surroundings.

I don't believe that specific glass silvering process works with plastic. They did it on plastic?

Oh, I don't blame Dale or hold it against him. But it is sad that this leaves the more advanced modelers with nowhere to get their parts "chromed". The spray on chrome paints out there simply do not match the reflectivity or durability if the vacuum metalizing process.

Photos uploaded to the forum are freely accessible to anybody out there. Anybody can "save image as" to their local computer, then do whatever they want. I guess if you want to protect them, add some sort of watermark. I see some members here do that.

For some reason Trumpeter instead of the typical vacuum metalizing using aluminum (like most model manufacturers), actually used electroplating process to cover the plastic with relatively thick layer of metal. I don't think it is actual chrome but it will be very though to remove. There have been threads here about this in the past. Just have to find one. EDIT: I looked and no luck. Looks like nobody found any simple or easy way to remove it.

Not quite. As you found out, there are different ways to "plate". The chrome electroplating process of things like vintage car bumpers requires a lot of nasty chemicals. Things like headlight buckets are likely vacuum metalized (just like it is done for plastic kit's "chrome" metal parts). The metal is usually aluminum, not chrome and no nasty chemicals are involved. Besides, most new cars usually use some sort of projection headlights which do not have the typical reflector you would see in conventional halogen headlights. But if chrome electroplating is banned, how will people be able to restore vintage cars? I think this planet is getting out of control as far as the environmental craziness goes.

Model? The price seems to indicate that it is 1:1 scale.

I also had one of those acrylic resin temp. crowns break on my several years ago on my back molar. I just cleaned it really well in 99% IPA and glued it back together using CA glue. Then I put it back in and the temporary cement was still on the tooth stump. It held until my permanent crown arrived. Of course I was not chewing on that side.

Exactly. While it was not specifically mentioned in the initial post I could only assume that the reason for removing "without destroying them" for re-using.

Yes, decals can be removed using various methods, but the OP asked specifically "without destroying them".

It might be a great idea, but in today's world someone would complain and kill it. After all, you can buy a gun and ammo without taking any training, so why would you need it to drive a hot car? Both guns and cars can be deadly. It is not about being a good driver - it is about being silly macho guy, and not thinking of consequences. You know? Like begin responsible for your actions. It's just people being stupid. You can't fix stupid. Those muscle cars can be driven gently. Nobody (but someone's dumb brain) forces them to step hard on the gas pedal.

Not that I know of. The decal film is much thinner than human hair and very fragile. If decal setting solution was also used, then the film pretty much melted into the paint.

Blow the lint off using compressed air. If you have a compressor make sure that oil/water trap is installed so the air is clean. Or maybe use those "blow-off" aerosol duster cans. If the lint is really stuck on, use one of those (again clean) makeup brushes while blowing the model clean.

Not always. Some brands of rubbing alcohol also contain other (lubricating) additives for easier rub-downs. Better to just go for the bottles labeled "Isopropyl alcohol". And yes, I'm aware that (likely distilled) water is added to dilute the IPA to whatever strength it is sold at.

I wonder if those are fisheyes? Those are often caused by traces of silicone contamination. Did the primer pull away in those spots, down to bare plastic? The body might need a wash in something stronger than Dawn. You could try 91% Isopropyl alcohol. But stay away from Rubbing Alcohol - it has additives. I assume you will strip the primer. That process itself might be enough to wash away any contamination. I'm also wondering if there is something in your nitrile gloves causing this?

Growing up in Poland I also build several paper models. There was actually a periodical with paper models in each issue. It was called Młody Modelarz (Young Modeler). Some larger kits took up more than one issue. I remember being impatient waiting for the next issue to complete the model. I remember building a helicopter (fairly large, probably 1:48 scale), and a WWII era destroyer. That one was split into multiple issues, and it was quite long (probably around 24"). Unfortunately both models are long gone.