peteski

One features impossible to do with photoetched spokes is accurately model the interlaced spokes. 3-D printing is capable of that, which dramatically improves the realism of those wheels. The tires are also superbly rendered, and they have asymmetrical shape sidewalls - a feature I was not aware of until Jason designed those. Even the tread pattern is rendered correctly. We live in some exciting times for modeling.

Pierre, the model and its new wheels look really good! You are doing an excellent job on this kit.

Glad to offer ideas. If you can nickel plate it, that sounds like an excellent solution.

So it is bare plastic? Well then you will either have to some custom mixing of paints, or find one that is close in color (like some of the ones mentioned above). Since the painted wheels are separated from the body, a slight color mismatch will not be very apparent. If you were to paint the cab, then you would have to come up with almost perfect match for things to look good (since the cab touches the fenders, and color mismatch would be very noticeable).

Another alternative would be to simply tin the brass tube. Solder tin/lead alloy has silver color and can be polished. I would take a length of brass tube plug up one end (so the solder does nto get into it., then generously coat it with flux (paste), and pull it almost vertically through a blob of melted solder on a large tip of a soldering iron. The flux should assure good coverage and that only thin layer of solder remains on the tube. As far as soldering hypodermic (stainless) tubing, I have done it in the past. It is not as easy as soldering brass, but with some acid-based flux should be possible. I seem to recall that I dialed the iron's temperature down form the usual 700 deg .F I normally use.

I get my adhesive vinyl material (scraps) from a local sign shop.

Good job Mike! It is always nice to see smaller scale models featured on the forum.

Couldn't you use hypodermic tubing for the hinges, instead of brass? Tubing is stainless steel and it is nice and shiny. It can also be easily polished to give it more chrome-like look. It is available in a wide range of ODs and wall thickness. I used to get mine from Small Parts Inc. but since amazon absorbed them I have been using http://www.componentsupplycompany.com/ .

Duplicated post - deleted.

Ewwww. While not quite as homely as PT-Cruiser convertible, or the new Mini Cooper roadster, it is up there with them. Its lightly redeeming quality is that the nose is cute! It just needs a big grinning mouth decal.

Yes, I see the difference. Interesting.

Yes hobby paint chemistry and its descriptions are as clear as mud.

Yes, primer can be decanted just like any other paint in aerosol cans. There are several paint decanting methods out there (some more crazy or dangerous than others). But it is doable.

If it is not metallic, it might be Testors Colors by Boyd's Pacific Blue which I believe I used on this model.

Probably, if you could find someone with large enough vacu-forming machine. Probably use 1/8" Lexan.

That sounds like a good idea. Yes, this stuff is used for permanent graphic wraps or other stickers applied to 1:1 vehicles. The plastic film and the adhesive are designed for long term use.

In my experience all the masking tapes I have ever used, have adhesive which is not designed for long term use. After some time (it might take few years) the adhesive either dries up and loses adhesive quality, or gets gooey and sort of melts, spreading out from under the tape. I would not use any of those as a permanent part of my model. I have not done any testing (or long term real-use examples) of any of the Washi-type tapes (like Tamiya masking tape).

Alclad II sells multiple ranges of paints. See: https://alclad2.com/finishes/regular/ for a list of their metallic finishes. While there, check out their other ranges of paint products. They are listed under the Finishes drop-down on https://alclad2.com/

Thanks for showing details of the new BMF packaging Luke. I should have mentioned that when you decide to use Naphtha, test it first. I'm sure you would have done that anyway.

That's really too bad! From reading comments ere for the last few years, the quality seems to have really taken a dive in the last few years (of course around the time COVID-12 pandemic started). At first they were using different (stiffer) metal for the foil, and the adhesive is not the same as it used to be. That is a shame. What is the printed info on now? It used to be on the paper envelope. Is it now on just a sheet of paper? If you use lacquers, the residue should remove easily using a soft cloth moistened with Naphtha (like Ronsonol lighter fluid). Naphtha evaporates fast and leaves no residue.

Wow! That is a good way to attract attention to the Pawn Shop! I wonder if that landing gear just fell out of the sky? There seems to be a piece of paper stuck to the tire. I wonder what it has written on it.

Those are probably enamels. I wonder for what specific reason Monte is looking specifically for enamel paints?

Assuming that you want Englis traanslation (the user's location is no longer shown in their profile), Jason's listings are also available on American eBay. https://www.ebay.com/str/jackmodelling Edit: just realized what you mean - the descriptions are in French. I looked at one of the Ferrari wheel listings and it seems that some negative reviews were posted for Jason. Strange as I haven't had problems with him.

Mine came as small and large pair, but I think you can ask Jason to sell you 4 of the same size if that is what you need. Here are some photos Jason posted in a PM (I hope he doesn't mind).

Looks great! Nice replica. Is the model from a kit, resin or 3-D printed?