peteski

Exactly! No blingy, shiny chrome - just sating black. Testors likely first created that particular color around the time this "sporty" look started being popular on 1:1 cars.

Thank you for that David. That is exactly what I remember being called black chrome (or blackout chrome). Not the shiny dark metallic color which is apparently also called black chrome. Back around the same time I did the this with my '76 Camaro. I painted the window trim, etc with satin black paint. Black chrome baby!

You shouldn't even have to make a decal. Just print it out on paper, cut it out and attach it to the model. If you use photo quality paper, it will even have glossy surface.

I realize that Bill, but as long as I remember, Testors black chrome implied satin black (just like Trevor's photos show).

As I remember, this is simply a satin black paint which is often used in moldings which would otherwise be chrome (or shiny silver). Not flat, and not glossy. BMF black chrome is also to be applied to trim pieces which should be black instead of metallic chrome, but it doesn't produce as good of a result at the paint. Foil remains shiny, and the black color doesn't look like the black trim should look like. Not sure why the name is suddenly being questioned. Both BMF and Testors have used that name/description for many years.

Wow! Thank you!

I'm not questioning your experience, but you just arbitrarily stated that it the clear coating does not yellow, without providing much detail. Comparing your differing experience to mine (I'm also like you, not a young or inexperienced idiot), I simply asked for more details. I will trust but verify, especially when it comes to things I read on the Interwebs (which is *FULL* of young, inexperienced, and/or clueless people). Just ask @Ace-Garageguy . To be honest, with 68 posts under your belt, I just don't know how much experience you have, or how reliable your info is. So don't get in a huff when someone asks you for more details about some product you tried and touting to others. When you, like me, have been around this forum for quite a while, you'll learn to question new product or technique someone touts here.

So it's a rather small logo (like 1")? Your theory that it might have came off some box (like a watch, jewelry or perfume) might actually be on target.

What color is your project? White or some very light color? If it is was a darker color, the yellowing would not be very apparent.

You might think twice before clear coating any lighter colors with Minwax Urethane anything in general. In my experience it the Minwax urethanes (from a can, not sprays) will turn greenish amber as they age.

Is this specifically model related (since you posted it in a model specific Q & A section). If not, then the best plaice for this would likely be in the off-topic section. No I'm not playing a backseat moderator - just stating my personal opinion. In any case, if you revealed where that log came from might help others to identify it.

Yes, while not popular, they do exist. Just like White LEDs are actually blue LED die with a phosphor coating which converts most of the blue light to other colors (resulting in apparent white light), purple (or pink) LEDs are also blue LEDs with another type pf phosphor coating, resulting in purple/pinkish) light. I scored some of the small surface mount (SMD) LEDs from a surplus outfit called Electronic Goldmine. They are not the same as grow light LEDs. Here is a link to them: https://theelectronicgoldmine.com/products/g25733?_pos=4&_sid=880bae79b&_ss=r Unfortunately they recently made the minimum order $35, but if you browse theough the site you might find enough items to satisfy that. You could also search for purple LED on eBay or amazon.

Few months ago I've seen a similar display in the middle of an isle of a Walmart in Manchester, NH.

Interesting and unusual creation. I have been attending car shows in Massachusetts and New Hampshire for years and I never ran into this one.

WOW!

I did a quick search, and here's one of the threads about Alsa Chrome system. To me the $140 price doesn't seem all that outrageous considering how much a rattle can of Revell Chrome sells, and knowing that Alsa will be more durable without any extra clear coats. Like Steve mentioned in that thread, just sending the kit's parts to be "chromed" (when that service was still available) could cost $80. $140 doesn't seem that outrageous, considering that you will be able to do multiple kits.

That's all well and good, but as you said, more often then not those Darwin Award Recipients also take some some innocent lives along with theirs.Or better yet, they survive the crash while others perish. It is just not cool!

If you are using a "real" computer (not a phone or tablet) then I can offer a hint. When I post URL links I first click on the chain link symbols on the top pf the message compose window. That opens up a dialog box asking to enter the URL. I past the link into there (usually leaving the "text" field blank), and click "Insert into post" button. I don't just past the URL link directly into the compose window. Like this https://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/191128-can’t-paste-links/#comment-2869491 EDIT: I wonder if you are asking why when you paste the URL to another thread in this forum into the compose window, it doesn't automatically expand into a small image of the thread? If that is the question then I don't know why it would not do that automatically.

If you search the forum (not using the native search engine) for Alsa chrome, you will see several discussion. Some here use it and are quite happy with it.

While not the greatest option nowadays, of possible take the train.

That sounds like the cheap plastic was not polystyrene (or ABS). While I'm not familiar with Revell cement, I suspect ti is a typical solvent-based cement. If it is polystyrene (or ABS, which is a variant of polystyrene) should all be gluable using hobby glues for styrene, and even CA glue.

Most quick-set epoxies while they harden clear (or slightly amber in color), will become darker yellow with age (after several years). But if you use epoxy in a way that it is not visible outside the model, that is not a problem.

I did not mention polypropylene as I have never seen it available in thin clear sheets. It is usually used to for making Tupperware or similar food containers, and it is usually not crystal clear. As you said, adhesives do not stick well to it. Probably best to use something else.

No, that's fine Bill. Thank you. Good to know that acetate is still alive and well, and available, but I just haven't seen any acetate clear sheets for sale at any hobby shops I have been using in the last 30 years. And while I agree that the materials are usually labeled correctly by the manufacturers, I still believe that majority of modelers actually use different materials, while generically calling them "acetate". At least in my experience.

Acetate? Kind of like calling all water-based paints "acrylics" is a misnomer, acetate is inaccurate. I don't think anybody has actually used clear acetate for model windows for many decades. I don't even know where one would get a sheet of real acetate. Sorry, had to get this off my chest. Clear plastic we use for models is usually polystyrene, PET, PETG (like Vivak), acrylic, polycarbonate, polyester, or vinyl. For glue you can use canopy cement, epoxy, odorless CA glue (it doesn't fog the plastic). I often use standard CA glue with BSI brand accelerator. The glue sets before it has a chance to fog, and that accelerator brand does no harm plastic in general.