peteski

I also come from that same time, but unfortunately the world around us has drastically changed (and not for the better). We may have the "old world" morals, but large portion of current population does not. Same goes for the work ethics or even common sense. Just ask Ace.

Love it!

Another unusual subject. I like unusual subjects (especially with lights)!

Looks darn good to me! Is that a real or fantasy paint scheme? I remember "dazzle" camo on ships, but I believe it was all grayscale.

We are taking about Postal Service employee, or restaurant staff. Even if they got canned, with the way today's world is, they could find you and kill you. In today's world killing someone is not a big deal. But they would likely not get canned, so they would continue to provide the sub-par service to you. Yes, I'm exaggerating a bit, but you get my point.

Jason, contact Jason at Jack Modeling, He accepts requests (these wheels and tires started as a request on this forum). Since he already has a CAD design for the 250GTO wheels, it should be easy to change the rim depth or other dimensions. The tires will be a bit more involved, but doable.

Hm, I thought the priceless caps were introduced later in the '90s (to present) so they would not have to remake the caps using the new, constantly growing price. Generic cap solved that problem. EDIT: On second thought, I seem to recall that the little square bottles had different diameter necks too, using different caps. Larger and smaller. I think the small caps didn't have prices and were used in paint sets. But my memory is fuzzy, I think I still have a paint set from the '80s. Would have to dig it out and check the cap.

That is the dilemma nowadays. We experience some really poor service from an individual on whom we depend on, but we are afraid to report it worrying about possible repercussions.

What's the price shown on the cap?

40 cent Testors paints are likely from the late '80s. I bought paints in the early '80s for 30 cents. Here are some from my collection (the 15 cent ones were given to me by a friend). Funny how the logo looks similar to Tesla car logo.

Thinning kit's entire windshield (or any "glass") is pretty much impossible because you woudl have to be able to reduce the thickness of the inner surface by exactly even amount. I just don't see that being possible (especially on a windshield with complex curves). If you don't have it done evenly, it will cause optical distortion. Plus all the smoothing and polishing would take a lot of time. Also, even if very thin, the kit's windshields are out-of-scale thick anyway. Best solution is to use the windshield as a buck for forming a new windshield from thin clear material (such as PET). Vacu-forming or similar heat-forming method should produce a scale-thin clear windshield.

Yes, that looks quite useful. But laser pointers or cat toys emit a single narrow laser beam which results in a point of light. It seems that what you are using is one of the lasers which projects a line (like a laser level).

Sure, I understand. But for the relatively small items we cast (even as large as a full 1:25 scale car body), I don't believe that runaway reaction is even something that could happen. I know that with all the small parts I cast, I never had the molds get more than lukewarm using urethane, and even less so using epoxy. You are looking at this through the eyes of someone who has done casting on a very large scale. I actually have more of this issue with CA glue and accelerator (which also sets through an exothermic reaction). I have had it get hot and even bubble up.

Since we have learned that it is just unpainted blue plastic, I doubt the manufacturer mixed the color to match any specific hobby paint.

Most resins used for casting are usually polyurethane-based. But both 2-part Urethane and Epoxy generate heat when they are curing (the exothermic reaction). Also, since (2-part) polyester resin was mentioned, that also cures by an exothermic reaction. AFAIK, all 2-part chemically-cured resins are exothermic (they generate heat while curing).

Regardless of where we live, what I stated is accurate. Northeast USA (New England) is Vermont, New Hampshire, Maine, Massachusetts, Connecticut, and Rhode Island. I was just making a point that spraying paint cools it down. If this is done in a hot and humid environment, that cooling spray effect will condense water from the air onto the object being painted, ruining the paint job. If the ambient air is cool and much drier, there is not enough moisture in the air to condense, so no damage is done. I have experienced this enough so I know not to spray paint during hot and humid days. Reviewing this discussion now, this specific problem could be humidity related after all. 85% RH seems quite high, but we also don't know the air temperature of when the painting took place.

Some browsers automatically translate text on web-pages (It might be Chrome). My browser doesn't.

We had few of them back when they were popular. They communicate with each-other through IR communication (like a TV remote control), so they can have conversion and learn things. There was even an app for PalmPilot (remember those personal assistants before smart phones took over?) which allowed you to control and communicate with the Furbies. We still have couple stashed away (for when they become prized collectibles). Then the same company came out with a Shelby - similar toy but it looked like an oyster. It was slightly more advanced, and they also communicated using IR, but the silly thing was that the communication protocol was not compatible with Furby! Go figure.

I live in the Northeast USA and we are currently entering the winter months. The cold air is much more drier and holds much less moisture than warm summer humid air. Easy way to observe that (other than looking at the hygrometer) is getting static electric zaps everywhere I touch. That is because dry air does not allow the static electricity to dissipate. That is why I prefer casting and painting in the cooler months. No worries about moisture absorbed into urethane resin causing bubbles, or paint blushing due to ambient moisture condensation. But colder ambient temperature does usually increase the viscosity of liquids (like paint), so the temperature alone could be contributing to this paint issue.

This is an easy one! It is Pocher 1:8 scale 1934 Mercedes 500 K built over 30 years ago. With over 1,000 ill fitting parts and its large size, it was a very difficult build.

Decals are not all made the same. Different brands might use different decal film chemistries, and different types of inks. Different brands/types of clears will affect different types/brands of decals. Only safe clear to use on all decals would be water-based acrylic clears.

Isn't Tyvek rather slippery plastic? Will paint stick to it well. or will it rub off during handling?

We sure live in some strange times. This is a 3rd decade of the 21st Century and the amount of censorship or being offended is so much more prevalent than in the past 5 or 6 decades.

While at first I didn't think I have heard of that make, I now realize that I have. 1924 model was featured in one of the original episodes of the Twilight Zone. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mr._Bevis

One features impossible to do with photoetched spokes is accurately model the interlaced spokes. 3-D printing is capable of that, which dramatically improves the realism of those wheels. The tires are also superbly rendered, and they have asymmetrical shape sidewalls - a feature I was not aware of until Jason designed those. Even the tread pattern is rendered correctly. We live in some exciting times for modeling.