peteski

Duplicate post - deleted.

The assumption here is that Gary has and uses an airbrush.

You don't understand. I have spend close to a year on some of my builds. It is about time management. To me it is a waste of time to sand. rub, polish, or wax a paint job. It would be waste of time trying to rescue a glue bomb. I just dislike those tasks, and find them unnecessary. I rather use that time I save on not doing those things for building another model. My paint jobs will not be like yours, and I'm ok with that. But on the other hand, would you be able to design and build an electronic circuits to illuminate your model? Not just a a simple LED/resistor light, but a complex electronic circuit? Our modeling goals are quite different, but yet we both enjoy our hobby. After all, we build models for our own pleasure and satisfaction. I doubt that you'll ever understand me, but I'm ok with that. For a selection of my models you can visit http://classicplastic.org/pete-w.html . I remember that you do not generally click on links to any external contents, but if you do want to see some examples of my models, click on the link.

So it was rear-engined. Makes sense with the driver's feet and pedals way up in the car's nose.

Awesome news!

You hit the nail on the head: The time consuming part is what I avoid. To me that is a waste of time, in the same category as restoring glue-bombs. I'm also quite happy with my unpolished and unwaxed paint jobs. I rather spend my time on other aspects of model building. Since the my first model kit I built as a kid, to where I am now, I have never polished or waxed a model. Well, I take it back. One time I had a piece of debris stuck in paint of a trunk lid, and I sanded and polished it. No waxing. I'm not saying Call it a short cut, or maybe not, but a quick lesson on how to cut and polish is light years easier and far less intimidating than telling a novice just to “paint it good”. All I'm saying is that it is possible to get from mediocre to quite good without the need to rub, polish and wax. That is based on my experience. One just hast to gain the experience over time. And it will not always be perfect either, even when one learns to lay down good paint jobs. Like you mentioned, to each his own.

Of course not all of my paint-jobs come out perfect, but I just never polish or wax. My first models were brush-painted using Testors PLA enamels in the little glass bottles.

Since Joe is not going to mention it, I believe he is talking about https://alsacorp.com/product/easy-chrome/ . Rather pricey, but if it works as a 1:1 car finish, it will be durable on a model.

The original formula uses Lye (sodium hydroxide) as its active ingredient. Lye is what dissolves the thin aluminum "chrome" layer, and also softens the clear lacquer base coat. The no-fumes formula I believe uses another chemical.

I'm just the opposite. If I had to spend hours polishing out a paint job, I would quit the hobby. I learned to lay down the paint wet and heavy enough that it dries smooth enough for me without any polishing or waxing.

Yes, that's what I was going to suggest. Works really well for larger scale models, but even with the weave and overall thickness being a bit out of scale for 1:24/25 models, I think it will look good.

Is that a pedal car for adults, or does it have an engine in it? Or maybe just bunch of hamsters running it? If there is an engine, it must be in the rear because the driver's legs are probably taking up most of the under hood space.

How about the Gunze Sangyo kit? I read it had some problems too.

Excellent job. Love the spoke wheels add very realistic coloring. I'm pretty sure if it was photographed against a natural background, it would easily pass for 1:1 bike.

Sure, it is underground in your development, but that is just last several hundred feet. Outside of your development the utilities come back up to regular utility poles and subjected to a typical damage by the weather or careless drivers.

Exactly. I was simply amused by the phrase Indie Pail (as in "bucket") Ale. I had no idea that there are beverages called "pail ale".

I like Pail even better! While I have never had to strip paint from resin body, I would think that glycols (which are ingredients of brake fluid, and some paint strippers like ELO and Tamiya), would attack resin. Also keep in mind that not all resins are the same. There are different brands and formulations used by different resin casters. Some might be unaffected by certain strippers, while other might get damaged. It would be wise to be careful while stripping any sort of resin item (and not fully depend on anecdotal information provided by well-intentioned forum members). Over the years I read many horror stories about resin bodies getting damaged by various strippers.

That is guaranteed, but the sky might be overcast.

Unfortunately this is quite common in the world we currently live in. While not too dangerous in this instance, but the same thing happens with political views, and there the problem is much more severe. People seem to live in their own little world of their "facts", and no matter how much proof you feed them showing that their facts are not correct, they just don't accept of believe your proof. I hope some day we can break out of this cycle (but it doesn't look too good).

"Should be" is the key phrase. In some states (like California) it is banned as a hazardous chemical, so paint stores do not carry it. Unfortunately.

Excellent model, and the display base is also very well done!

That brings up another item left in the past. Remember when dealerships had printed brochures describing a new car? Many mid-price car ones ones had actual paint chips in them for color selection. Not some printed representation of the colors (which is never really "close enough", especially with metallic color), but actual pain chips! That way you could get a good idea what the color of your car would be. Now all you have is virtual previews of the vehicles on the Interwebs. Not quite the same.

Some new SUVs have 2-tone paint. Usually the body is one color and roof is black (not a full glass panel roof either - painted black). I have seen some Kia Souls which were black/red.

I mentioned 1:24 for the 1:25 scale purists. And yes, in the past, there were scale variations you mentioned, but most modern kits (where CAD and often actual factory drawings were used to make the molds), are usually quite close to their specified scale. Scale doesn't bother me. I build vehicle models anywhere from 1:6 to 1:160 scale.

No Calvin, that will not work. Well, if you have a factory "chromed" plastic part and you just need to touch up a small area (like where you cut off the gate that held the part to the parts tree), then you could dab some Alclad II Chrome to that area using a very fine brush. But not if you want to brush paint the entire part. You shouldn't tack on questions in a thread which is covering different subject. Just start a new thread/topic. I know you are new here, that is why I'm trying to give you a hint.