peteski

That's what I thought too. Bondic is just some cheap UV cure resin. It sucks as a glue. That's why I was very skeptical but I gave it a try. The JB Weld stuff is a real dual cure Cyano-Acrylate (super glue). Just like I mentioned.

You should be able to buy several colors of powder then blend them (before application) to get a close match. it will not be a solid color, but the mix will likely look pretty realistic, like carpeting.

Oh, ok. None of the CA glues I have ever tried will set without the accelerator when gluing parts with a small footprint, especially to a painted surface. As you said, CA starts dissolving the paint, and that makes it even harder to set up. There is a magical cure, but you will need 3 hands. JB Weld makes a UV cured glue. it is basically a dual-cure CA glue. it can harden like standard CA glues, but it will also sent instantly, even in open air, under UV light. I mentioned you need 3 hands because you have to hold the model, the part, and the UV light. I'm sure you could improvise. I was skeptical, but that stuff really works!

I think in USA every passenger vehicle (car, SUV) made in the last 10 years has a backup camera. I think it is a federally mandated equipment.

Let me introduce you to Mr. Accelerator. I would have quit modeling long time ago if not for this miracle liquid! There are no alternatives. And never ever spray it! Get yourself some Micro-Brush applicators.

Nice find! It would cool if somone modeled some of those unique advertising vehicles

That's my experience too. I have parts of a sheet still left that is over 20 years old, and it still works. The adhesive is still good. And I do work around the wrinkles (as long as the foil is not cracked). Since in most applications (like thin window trim) is very small thin area, even if the wrinkle cannot be smoothed out completely,, it will be pretty much invisible. And yes, in the past there have been some bad batches (most recent during the COVID pandemic), the current production run of the New improved Chrome is really good. I also steer clear from Ultra Bright Chrome. That is just thin aluminum foil (not a special soft pliable alloy used for the Chrome BMF) and it is very stiff. Will not conform to complex model surfaces. The Ultra Bright Chrome was BMF's answer to Detail Master's foil, when they started making that back in the '90s. Detail Master bragged that their foil was much brighter and shinier than BMF, so BMF produced their version. Both Detail Master and BMF versions of the bright foil are pretty much unusable to me. To me the ultimate compliment was when BMF started using my models for advertising.

That is correct. Nowadays this type of decorating of book covers or product packaging on commercial scale is done using hot foil stamping method, while embossing powders are used more in the hobby field. At least that's how I understand things.

Well, simulating carpet is not the intended use for embossing powder. It's original use was for scrapbook craft, but modelers discovered that it makes a great looking carpet in 1:25 scale.

Diecasts often have their plastic "chrome" parts electroplated with real chromium (not the typical fragile vacuum metalized aluminum used for most model car kits). This process results in the same very tough plating that is used on 1:1 scale chromed parts. Basically the part is coated with electrically conductive paint, then copper plated, then chrome plated. Chromium is a very hard and durable metal, resistant to most chemicals. Maybe some very strong acid could eat away at the chrome. If you could sandblast the chrome layer, you could then remove the copper with Ferric Chloride. I wonder if you could just try peeling off the metal, since the base coat that is under the plating is conductive paint (which is probably the weakest link of the bond with plastic.

Dale is not very responsive via email - call him for info.

Sounds like freehand painting the "glass", not parts fitment, was the main issue. I have feeling that if the window masks were included in this kit, the build description would be more positive. Personally, while I have been known to brush-paint some small parts, I never attempt anything like what Conrad did. I mask and airbrush pretty much everything.

Wow, it's been a wile since you worked on this baby! I'm curious why didn't you just foil-cast the emblems/logos instead of yanking them out, leaving holes the body? EDIT: I went back and read some earlier posts, so I know your reasons. When I built mine, I masked the "bertone" logos before painting the body. Then after the body color was applied, I removed the masking and painted the bare plastic logos. That way there was no paint buildup on the lettering. I seem to recall that I then dry-brushed the scripts on the rear panel. Nowadays I would scan the rear panel then trace the scripts in Corel Draw and print black decals to cover the raised lettering.

Yes, the model looks pretty good. As for masking windows, I thought that kit (and many other Tamiya kits) includes masks for the glass to make painting easier.

Ok, I'll bite too. My large scale Hemi. And on the opposite end of the scale spectrum is one of my small engines. 1:43 scale 289 Ford engine in a Cobra. One thing I should have done different would be to reshape the bottom of the distributor (it was molded together with the intake manifold). It doesn't look bad viewed in-person when the car body ins installed, but it does pop put in s closeup shot like this.

I agree with Bill - beautiful model John! As for the convertible top, the windows look flush because the entire top is molded out of clear plastic. You mask the windows and paint the fabric areas. Tamiya convertibles also utilize the same design of using clear plastic for the roof. Clever!

I'm wondering if the different thermal expansion rates of styrene and aluminum will cause any problems. I suspect it would not be a problem with small pieces, but the roof is rather large.

Well, they make other wire wheel and tyre sets where the tyre is printed as a separate item. I wish they did the same for the Jaguar wheels. I send my wheels to be vacuum metalized (I don't spray paint them), and I have not problem using hard resin wheels.

I believe that Finescale metal kits are cast out of pewter, which is a very soft metal which can be carved/trimmed with a knife. White metal (Zamak is one of its trade names) is a zinc and aluminum based alloy, which is much harder than pewter. It is the same metal diecast model companies use for their finished models. Yes, you will needed to use files and rotary tools like Proxxon or Dremel when working on Zamak. And the original Hubley model kits were also made of Zamak.

I like that one too. Yes it is weird, but good. Came out in the '80s and I bought the CD - still have it and you just reminded me to listen to it again. One of not many albums where I like every song.

I also bought couple sets last week. One thing that I noticed in the photos in the eBay listing is that the offset could be more accurate. What I mean is that the Jaguar XK-E wheel hubs stick out of the wheel further than what the 3D printed wheels depict. But maybe it is just the photos. One thing for sure is that the spokes look amazing!

Yup. That's where I bought mine.

Alclad II steel or stainless steel look pretty good as cast iron color to me. I used one of those colors (don't remember which) on this bike's rotor.

That is some impressive modeling! I'm curious about that Volvo model. Who makes that kit? There aren't many models of Volvos available as kits.

My 2005 Scion xB (aka. Toyota bB) or "the box" or "toaster" was something different among its contemporary run-of-the mill vehicles. It would still fit that description today. Whether it was considered attractive or not, that is another subject, but its looks grew on me. I didnt' see it as ugly - just different. And like the GEO Metro, in a cute sort of a way. My current 2019 Kia Soul also fits that category. Different, but in a cute sort of a way. If I was driving in the '70s, I would have enjoyed owing AMC Gremlin or Pacer (just the looks only, not for reliability).