peteski

I agree with the earlier comment that windows make or break the model's realism, I have to add that IMO same goes for other clear lenses on the model. It would be nice to have those molded out of clear/amber/red, but I can also see that one has to draw the line somewhere. I suppose a simple open mold could be made of those taillights, then cast them using clear red resin (or clear and painted with transparent red), but that would really extend and complicate this build.

How about these (no need to buy a full model kit).

What can brown do for you? Remember that ad campaign few years back? Incompetence!

Yes, in her example you do have a point Bill.

The cynic in me sometimes wonders how many of those "cool chick" that are into mechanical things like cars are just acting, while the real mechanics are "behind the curtain"?

I avoid gluing painted parts by: 1 - Pinning parts (I install the pin and drill the hole before painting. f the smaller pinned part is to be painted I mask the pin with liquid mask before painting the part. 2 - Mask the glued area with liquid mask before painting. 3 - Scrape the paint off before gluing. I rarely use number 3 since I test fit and prep parts before painting.

I also found dealing with Revell of Germany parts support hassle-free, and no charge. Last time I needed a new body and decals for the recently released Jaguar XK-E.

Thank you for you thorough analysis of me, which BTW is not very accurate. If you look at my post history, you will notice that I'm not only commenting on your posts (actually I seem to recall that only commented on your posts only few times before deciding that it is not worth it). Also in this thread *YOU* attacked my post. BTW, while you didn't like some of my earlier comments to you about the 3D printed grilles, you did follow my advice and printed the headlight lenses as a separate clear pieces. As for the terminology, it might not be the correct jargon, but it gets its meaning across. Plus show me anybody else on this forum (besides you) who comments on 3D technology using terms like Voxel. Striations , layering and faceting are terms which get the point across to the general forum membership (modelers not directly involved in 3D printing) even better than "voxels". Also neither of those terms is specifically a geological term (check the dictionary definitions I linked to). I get that you don't like me, but let it go dude, before I start treating this as personal attacks.

Dude, why are you bustin' my chops?! What "word" am I throwing around? I'm not stupid, but I don't own a 3D printer and I describe things I see using terminology generally used by non-experts. I call them as I see them. "Voxels"? "Voxel artifacts"? "Rock layering caused by crystals twinning"? If anything, you are throwing "those" words around. I ended my post with "Hey, we all have our own standards and requirements". Is that so difficult to comprehend?

While not CAD, I use Corel Draw, which is a vector-based drawing program to do my measuring for me. It sure is easier than to do it manually. Actually Corel Draw could be considered as a 2D CAD program.

Charles, the photos of 3D printed bodies you posted don't convince me. Actually in some of the photos (which with a gray resin don't really show the surface very well) do show some striations and stepped curves. Evaluating the surface of 3D prints is best done viewed in-person. I'm not disputing the fact that 3D printing has already revolutionized scale modeling. I agree that it is a game changer. But not (yet) for everything. Hey, we all have our own standards and requirements.

I agree that for things like engines and similar mechanical parts contemporary 3D printing beats resin, but I have yet to see a 3D printed car body which would have as smooth of a surface finish as resin cast bodies from good resin casters (like RMCoM or Modelhaus, or few others). Say what you will, the layering i still present on the 3D printed bodies. And if you haven't guessed, I do not sand/prime/sand/prime/sand my model bodies. I think for te best of both worlds it would be nice to have someone 3D print a model car body, and then prep it to be as smooth as styrene bodies, then cast good quality resin copies. As for the plating service, the only one I know of is Little Motor Kar Company, but who knows how long Dale will keep the business open. I don't have contact info handy, but it has been posted many times on the forum. Dale is not good responding to emails. Best to call him on the phone.

There is a very recent thread in the FAQ forum about scale spark plug wires. There were also many similar threads here in thee past (and I posted links to them in that thread). Like Bill said, using properly scaled diameter wires makes or breaks the realism of your model. Sometimes it pays to spend more money for smaller (properly sized) wire than being thrifty, and having garden-hose-sized wires in your model. But it all depends what you find acceptable on your models. v

That's is an awesome news! I was hoping someone would eventually 3D print those wheels.

Those are in fact modeled after the '73-'76 wheel covers. The ones used in the '80s (like pictured by Earl, and like the ones I have on my 1:1 '85 Eldorado) are different, but as you mentioned, these are probably the closest one you can find.

Since it is a UV-cure resin I'm not surprised that sunlight solidified it. After all Sun can also give your skin pretty nasty skin sunburn (caused by strong UV light). Resin in the vat has to be protected form any stray UV light.

This BMF trimming method is is very useful, and it is covered in a sticky thread in the Tips section of the forum. Personally I use it in reverse (I put the masking tape on the body first. then BMF over that. Either way, it works well.

It's likely top heavy. Probably sits in the water way higher than its waterline. You would need to add some ballast on the bottom until its waterline is even with the surface of the water..

Thank you Mark! I understand, and it makes sense.

Sure, but building a model using more conventional methods would not get very many views online. "Building" a model basically free-hand, using a pen dispensing a liquid plastic is more of an art than a skill of building a model using what I would call "conventional engineering" methods and materials. I would almost compare this to free-hand paining a picture vs. doing one of those paint-by-numbers paintings. Which would get more interest from an average person watching the video? I suspect that this video is not just done to show off skills, but to make some money. As I see it, the Internet (and ability to share videos with the world has created this phenomenon of showing one's talent to make some dough.

That looks similar to my experience Raoul. Not really sure why some plastic parts were softened more than others. Maybe it has something to do with what paint was on those parts? Not sure. Bit if only the inner part of the roof was painted but both top and inner surfaces are softened, then that theory would not hold. But the line on the body at where the body was submersed is also proof that the stripper does affect the plastic. Seems that plastic absorbs the stripper.

Both models look great! I do like the unusual (but pretty) blue paint. I didn't know that Italeri made a model of that car. Was it Italeri's original, or is this the same kit as the old AMT kit?

TJ, the general type of wire lacing info in that thread, even if incomplete could be useful, but in this specific case I'm curious how Mark approached it on this model. Like I mentioned, I looked through the thread you linked to (and noticed that I even commented there with a similar sentiment as I did here). Why can't I be honest with my opinion?

Usually all the kit's parts that are molded in the same color plastic are all laid out on a large tree which can often be divided before boxing it up. The body is also usually molded from the same plastic (if the body has the same color as the other parts). Were all the stripped parts and the body all immersed for the same period of time? If you smell the stripped parts can you also smell the odor of the stripping solution? Like I mentioned, I placed them in a warm spot, and after few days the plastic got hard again. But that is just not what I would expect from a plastic safe stripping solution.

I read (and even commented in) the thread you pointed to. Interesting method but the info/instructions in that thread is incomplete, and some photos are missing. Also, the lacing method would not work for this model (here the spokes are hooked into large center hub).