peteski

Sniff, sniff.

Well ok, but it is much more fun mixing your own.

Well, even the, this thing is a size of a lentil, and there is an extra ridge on the inside of the outer ridge. I still think that even as smooth as you could make it, the resulting mirror will still be like a fun-house mirror. If one wants to go the paint route then make a template like I mentioned, then make a filler piece using some 0.010" or 0.015" flat styrene. Glue that in (using a non-solvent glue, like JB-Weld or other epoxy, so not to distort the thin styrene). then put a coat of chrome paint. But Mylar film will be more "mirrory". Yes, I do "sweat the small stuff" while modeling.

Maybe those adhesives are too expensive? EDIT: Since Ace found this post confusing, let me clarify: It was a joke based on the notion that many car modelers are a thrifty.

In order for the chrome paint to look like a mirror, the surface has to be mirror glass smooth. Surface or JB Weld is nowhere as smooth. Call me anal . . .

Exactly. This person does not have to make molds or cast resin (both messy and time consuming tasks). They have much more time to provide better communications. Plus eBay has the framework all set up to make selling and shipping easier.

True, and it seems that push-button transmission gear selectors are coming back in vogue. Except they are now electronic, not mechanical. That Caddy XLR is on the same platform as the Corvette, so you can say that is is a Corvette.

Yes, but on that one they don't tout the fact that it is "no clear needed" paper. It still needs a clear overspray to protect the ink from dissolving in water.

Well,if you fast forward far enough, a Caddy did become a Vette. The XLR does have a center console.

You think that's bad? You should see how she drives!

If the mirror side has a lip around it then take piece of the "invisible" matte Scotch tape and glue it on the mirror (but don't press it hard - let it just adhere to the lip. Then take an old fashioned pencil and gently rub it over the lip. Like making old-school rubbing on paper. That will produce an outline of the lip. You can then remove that tape, and stick it on a piece of paper. Then trim around the pencil line (trim it on the inside of the line). You can now use that as a template to cut your mirror (from whatever material you choose).

5-minute epoxy? Interesting. What brand did you use?

Well ok. I was of course talking about injection-molded lenses that are included in kits.

Here is a direct link to that paper's page. The description states that it is a real waterside paper. This is a great development for home-brewed decals. Yes, it is only white, but printing ink jet decal on clear only really works when they are applied over a white surface anyway

In the ideal world it would be nice to have the vendor give us all sorts of updates, but it is not mandatory. Hey, Norm from RMCoM announced that he no longer accepts credit cards. Personal checks and money orders via snail-mail only. Does that mean I'll stop buying his excellent castings? No! Yes, there are ways to automate a lot of the order processing and updates, but that all takes time and money. Some of those small manufacturers are just one guy making products in his spare time (still working a full time job, and taking care of the family). They rather be casting products than trying to figure out how to automate updates for customers. We are really spoiled. Remember when you had to request a catalog in the mail, rip out and fill the order form, send a check and money order, then hope the letter got there, and that they send your order (in 4-8 weeks)? Some mail order hobby vendors accepted C.O.D.s. Then you had to wait in your house for the UPS driver, so you could pay for your package? We are spoiled. EDIT: always, always remember to check your SPAM folder. You can thank all those Spammers out there for the overly aggressive automatic SPAM filtering.

Bill, regardless of whether the fluting is on the inside, outside or no fluting at all, a 2-part mold is required to make the lens. I'm not really sure why the fluting is often placed on the outside of the lens. It should be just as easy to engrave the other part of the mold to place the fluting on the inner surface. As far as yellowing 5-minute epoxy goes, it yellows even in dark environment. I used that epoxy to adhere some items in a sealed ligth-tight enclosure, and after several years, I fund that it yellowed. I suspect tit is a purely chemical change. But you are correct - there are resins out there unaffected by UV light (which often causes plastics and resin to yellow).

That looks great now, but in few years epoxy will turn amber/yellow. making the headlights look like footlights. I got burned by this more than once. I tried about half a dozen of 5-minute epoxy brands, and they all yellow in time. I finally learned my lesson and no longer use it when I was a clear part. This yellowing is pretty much exclusive to the 5-minute epoxy. Longer cure epoxies do not yellow (or yellow less drastically, and it likely takes longer time). I highly discourage anybody from using 5-minute epoxy for parts which are to remain colorless clear. BTW, I'm really surprised how realistic those parking lights look. I would never have guessed that it is just a thin coating of epoxy over an opaque chromed domed lens molding. The way lights reflects in them looks like there is concave reflector behind the lens.

Hey, I like SPAM, and prunes dried plums too. I also don't like beer (but a fine Cognac is welcome) We all have different tastes.

Or if you like paint-solvent-flavored, dry both together at the same time.

Looking at the info in Joe's links "direct to metal" primer makes no sense as the explanation is that the direct-to-metal finishes can be applied directly to bare metal, without a need for a primer. So how can a primer be rated directly-to-metal? Aren't most rattle can automotive primers made to be applied directly to metal? I guess self-etching primer is just another marketing term (as this primer, along with others, can be applied directly to bare metal). Are we thoroughly confused yet?

Yes, there are techniques for that. For example with side view (door) mirrors I drill a hole for the pin in the mirror's stem, then I insert piece of brass rod (the "marking pin") into the hole until it bottoms out, then using nippers I cut it to just protrude about 0.020" (or about 1/32") from the mirror's stem. That pin remains not glued. I sometimes take out that piece of the pin and sharpen the end, but sometimes the cutting process leaves a sharp end already. So when that short pin is in the mirror's stem, I then hold the mirror in its desired mounting place on the door's surface, and I press the sharp pin into the paint. That gives me a mark where to drill. I then remove the "marking pin" from the mirror stem, and permanently glue in a longer pin. It can be then glued into the hole you drill in the door. If the angle of the hole in the door is at a slightly wrong angle, the pin in the mirror's stem can be bent slightly until desired placement is achieved. Once everything is lined up, the mirror with its pin can be glued to the door. If you are worried about messing up the paint while marking and drilling, this process can be done before the bare plastic body is painted. Actually I usually do it this way.

Does anybody have any info about Hermann Kersten from Netherlands? He had a WIP thread about his incredible scratchbuilt Fuso Airport catering truck He has not visited the forum since late 2020. I hope he is still ok and will eventually finish that masterpiece. @Hermann Kersten, are you still around?

Have you visited the Alclad II website? Sounds like you mean "candy colors" (at least that is what transparent tinted clears are called on the other side of the pond). https://alclad2.com/finishes/candy/

Wow! That looks great! The price also seems very reasonable for what you get. Do they have online presence other than FB? I would love to order this transkit but FB is no-go for me. Email address maybe? It really stinks that many small manufacturers chose not to have website. FB is not for everybody, and even a simple website with just contacct info would be really handy. After all, even FB has a website.

Funny, when that kit came out in the '90s it was my club's "club challenge" kit for that year. I painted the body with PPG Chameleon color-shifting paint, and finished the wheels, but haven't touched it since. I need to get inspired again. The wheels are nice!