peteski

To me this Lark seems to have the same "features" St least to me, it looks a bit too stubby. Like it was compressed from front and back. But it sure is an interesting build to follow. Ken, as far as the back seat goes, couldn't you have made casting of the front seat? Then you could make narrower by slicing some of it off. The seat pattern would match.

Very good! Worth noting is that you are successfully using a very basic, external mix airbrush. No fancy airbrush required. I'm curious why you are using Royal Blue (which is an regular opaque color) rather than transparent blue?

Yo, Casey, this has*NOTHING* to do with socialism. Look up the definition. You are just using buzzwords which seem to be convenient for you at the moment. Even the entire U.S. government itself is nowhere close to being socialist. I could expand on who runs our government, but that would get me banned from the forum. Also, the USPS is not actually run by U.S. government. What you seeing here could be related to badly designed routing algorithms (since everything is done by computers), and of course by the incompetence of the employees (which is rampant in today's world, all around us, regardless of the political association, not just at the post office). Incompetent people are everywhere, all over the world, regardless of which country or political regime they reside in.

Exactly. You don't want to end up with a frosted windshield And, yes it makes sense to do the tinting on the inside surface.

Hmm, I believe that those "as seen on TV" UV-cured adhesives are related to Bondic resin (which stinks as a glue), and not a UV-cured CA glue. So yes, they would be vasts inferior to the J-B Weld or the "Krazy" glue mentioned here.

That's all folks . . .

Oh well, that's an interesting attitude. This is likely a 1-man operation. If he is unaware there is a problem on the website, how can he fix it? Is he supposed to go and browse his website ever day looking for problems? I guess this "not my problem" attitude is widespread nowadays.

But, but, but, I used to get excited about my toaster (and even have a model of it). It was a great li'l car (I owned it for 13 years), and I still miss it.

The problem with pined threads is that one: there are already plenty on the first page of this section, and two: it seems that most members somehow fail to look at them, and start a new thread about the subject already covered in a pinned thread.

You found a source of no-name UV curable CA glue?! I like to know more. That is what we are specifically discussing here.

If he can make and sell wire wheels which are properly designed (ie. the hub protrudes past the outside of the rim), I would be all over them. In his current wire wheels, the hub is actually recessed. To me the spinners are also a bit too thin.

BTW, that is Gomer Pyle, not Homer Pyle. Probably auto-correct error.

J-B Weld also has a similar glue - looks like more companies age getting on the UV-cure adhesives bandwagon. Not that it is a bad thing. I have been using CA and (liquid) accelerator for decades, now it looks like we have "light accelerator" available. This might be just the thing for gluing on clear parts, then setting the glue instantly, without CA fogging issue. And as far as Bondic goes, yes, it stinks as an adhesive.

With modelers using so many brands and types of paints (some made specifically for models, others not), there really aren't any hard set rules which one can follow 100% of the time. Also the vague (or sometimes incorrect) naming conventions used by both the paint manufacturers, and modelers, things are even more confusing. Years ago, when water-based solvent paints became popular, modelers just started calling all paints that aren't orgainc-solvent based (aka stinky) paints "acrylics". While true that water-based paints are acrylic enamels (I never heard of water-based acrylic lacquers), on the other hand, there are also lots of both enamels and lacquers based on acrylic resin binder (which in this case is dissolved in organic [stinky] solvent). All of this causes confusion, so it really makes sense for a modeler to try (on a test surface like old body, plastic spoon, or a plastic soda pop bottle) the combination of paints they are planning on using. Edit: And before someone jumps all over me saying that the test surfaces (like spoons) are not the same plastic that the kit is made of, but still, it is better than not even trying the compatibility of multiple coats of various coatings.

Good job on the detail painting, but to me the finish looks too glossy. IMO, clothing and skin will look much more realistic when the finish is flat. Maybe spray with Dullcote, or some other water-based acrylic clear flat. Leather would look realistic in satin finish.

Awesome! This model really belongs in the Under Glass -> All the Rest section. It is a model. Imaginative concept, and very well executed.

Yes, I use about half a dozen of different adhesives - each best suited for some specific task. Doing that results in best quality of model assembly (and best quality models).

I have been using the straw-in-the-nozzle method of decanting paint for years. In fact that is the only method I use (I never puncture cans). This is my stash of nozzles and straws. I have accumulated it over the years. As I throw away empty cans (including household sprays) I usually keep the nozzles. That gives me several sizes and types of nozzles. They will fit a wide variety of spray valves. For Tamiya nozzles, I have 2 versions shown in the above photo: For one of them I drilled a small hole in the blue orifice plug to press fit a small clear tube, while for the other one, I removed the blue orifice plug and found a larger tube which snugly fits into the opening. The only problem with this is that when the paint comes out of the tube, the propellant gas dissolved in the paint expands back into gas. That causes foaming, and also cools down the liquid. Since I know it will foam up, I decant the paint into a larger container, so that is not a problem. But the cooling effect will cause moisture in the ambient air to condense as water on the container during humid summer months. Fortunately this is mostly on the outside of the container (as the inside is mostly filled with the expanded dry propellant gas). As with other decanting methods, not all the propellant dissolved in the pain escapes right away (especially if the decanted liquid is really cool). So, I leave the lid of the decanted paint jar paint not fully tight, so the gas can escape. After about a day in that state, the lid can be tightened, but even then if I don't use the paint right away, when I shake the jar to mix the paint after few months, some pressure still builds up, so I open the sealed jar carefully, not to have the paint make a mess. You will also notice a pipette in my stash. By luck I found a nylon (not glass) pipette where its tip can snugly fit into Tamiya nozzle's valve stem opening, and for the nozzles with a stem, it snugly slides onto the nozzle's stem. It is perfect for cleaning out the nozzles. I pour some lacquer thinner into a small container (a shot glass) then install the pipette onto the nozzle. and put the end of the decanting tube into the lacquer thinner. Then I repeatedly pump the pipette's bulb to flush the remaining fresh paint leftover from the decanting nozzle./tube. That way I have the setup perfectly clean ready for next decanting.

Now that is a chemical name I have not heard in years. I thought it was banned worldwide long time ago. The "safer" replacement for it is I believe Dichloromethane.

Hmm, it is the same "RJ" type design, and should be made form the same material. The only difference is the number of contacts (thus their physical size). The telephone ones 4 or 6 positions (usually with 2 or 4 contacts), and the Ethernet ones are larger, usually with 8 positions and 8 contacts. I suppose different manufacturers use slightly different (cheaper, crappier) quality plastic to make them. Not sure why Ethernet RJ connectors would not be as robust.

Typical issue with Google Photos not showing up attached when linked to posts. I can't see it either, even thought I'm logged into Google. There are ways to get this to work, but I don't know it. Best to directly upload to the forum. Here is the link to Steve's photo extracted from his post (a bit weird, eh?): https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/fife/APg5EOabsErMV3k7gKkun4RAh-mi2-a0r6rqN_iilBlY7HEC5DDbUSzrbIumMyx0MkiImvUUyezA-z6OU66Cx6Lu26patyEVJEmifQZm16ZQPVGIjRP1vQXHYTpJtN87nG--U2zBpEp-Cex50otHXa-jxheyYz21XuR9fMZFNXEzCpyutI9aRajHiFM0_VO6U-p7n9ECIy3aDEqbq56qkyV52lZG5iflpwTty1VI3HNNHPs3r3larPIL8y2azCXWhBOHv3zgTMJr_jf_eJ5fw125O7Nx8rVxbO14ipL19upmp6Y-p0fmybWusbGfU_w_zF-kJH49YQIncZeMOdTXaCCG7K_8oxIMXR7LvgV6uuD95304coYFOAy0eRu3C5DnzNiqVveuv1y0xnUxTw8bg0zC5z0bQXG7gzNEds42r4KvFqRLWqfiGU7QxYF-qKkixBb0MJZIxYp86Tx06zylZRX9KqhPe0e8njO-JIB_a71_AhhnG3S_fnZT7N3s4ejFgqmX2OjrB_rYB7XGx5Qa_GsBwC9uMazreevk2c7ZnPn6__lbhNEdDOB-XSa8rOO7sjIBuz6RzaduvcXUrDGDVNQWQy1bfblSgKPmWUiDuw7jspvhYqgltTZMFa06I7w7UFTDsQGhLmvL_mXGL1ImjE3dW5FQcZtt_zX8Xlmdw2zZD7lzGSicRDdebtkNzie1PsvxayJPUz4HQIi5x2dThn0rG7ZBis5NpUBs1s8lGc6iKKmN6TbqF4oTTjozsvBwD1h5mTkAHFgg0umDGZOpaYTsKwEyn1QbNdB7fIZWojvcbMElMNxZXKu2dY8qWdQoQBDW_e1kNGgTOz_mVhW6s1OcTlaMSxkRvo-fC0WoF5TgYB9ckj0efS4ndwYFuYE3fe3xy6v70XtxYHqKVdAE-dxLDOS1jmltob_IsXeV42tv9KFLvloKhJfSa6LwG2KHfkbib_tNaHpNLPWXR8U4ocqhPvSsMstWTe_GVfMeMLefumiewrcdBQ0cXsIvQG1gXTuCB14fRn_G7ZJEG1w8yC0K2GxHSyIZ1aSGJKQ8JAikRU7wBbRD5cIW6uGAupcXjcY-E0JGHaRJuGUkrwXnQhwfTTwdugd791c0gSJ0kT8xok7fwR_LrcbXJ0SjiZWElYsafclcApb60K0uN_cvvdq6zmRTLZ4Ctxts1t1LLlO21EVYJBxRAj3RVA27M2VdaBvDhD0wpwLrZVYKEBR_oEfMfTD8-4FjxbA4QhoWh-ICjxeU1-52BH1VVpAf6yxJEuOU9MuVZs7sDwE4a6foxLOODudd3VMwWXrPCofaJLoZ6YOSkZh8_okdvXdBFzcjns0gvD8Zp3sbMCVRHOAc1sVy1-vdaxWi659eODpNxozEQqWeeeh73j7AMpJrLQnbm7uZU54fU7UjghmqZ40HRvx-z9Flev3EtGqkOTNrqyLQdhYJ4AY8EMUAcsLbkIFHnk9lL2PIhqjEOBifzNHCL1-wbOfy2FmlBt8ZB_1uYQ-VHwiNgIGL1J3Xqkss4aXfVj4Tx8CjTcdMneU8Qfhi14MRv1wRxNrhXYDzPoI=s1239-w1239-h929-s-no?authuser=0

Same kid that put them on all the telephone modular connectors.

Hans, look at the 11th post before yours in this thread. The answer, and even the model is mentioned.

Well done!

His profile shows that he visited the forum just 20 hours ago, but yes, the solution tot he quiz seems a bit late.