peteski

There is some more useful info for DIY dippers: https://dipdoctr.com/water-transfer-printing-at-home/

You're right Steve. I didn't go back and re-read this entire thread going back to year 2020. Sorry. https://dipdoctr.com/what-is-hydro-dipping/ I doubt there are any films designed for 1:25 scale car bodies, but maybe some smaller patterns designed for larger surfaces could work for our models.

The hydrodipping we were discussing here uses multiple colors of liquid paint swirled while floating on water surface. That results in random color swirls. Thar rim's patterns are anything but random. Even if water is used in the process, it seems like some sort of film with a printed repeating pattern is applied to the rim's surface. Seems more like a large waterslide decal application rather than what we call hydrodipping.

Tamiya makes multiple lines of paints. The old standby X- series is what most modelers call "water based" acrylic paint. It is low odor (alcohol based) and it can be thinned with water, but isopropyl alcohol works too. I suppose any polar solvent (like lacquer thinner) will also work. Never tried that though. Of course it is always best to use the dedicated thinner made by Tamiya. Tru-Color paints are whole different thing. The are organic-solvent-based (acetone and few other solvents). What I call "stinky" paint. Totally different chemistry than the Tamiya X- paints. I would never think of using either water or alcohol to thin it. Acetone can be used, but it makes the paint dry too quickly. As mentioned, dedicated Tru-Color thinner is the best choice to use. It is always good idea to use dedicated thinners, which are usually a specific blend of different solvents, unless the manufacturer themselves specifies another solvent (like water). Following manufacturer's directions saves a lot of incompatibility headaches.

True, but while driving forward mode EVs only emit fairly quiet whine or a howling sound. Reminds me of the noise my GF's Segway makes. I think the sound is a gear whine. It does sound a bit like the UFO sound in some old Sci-Fi movies. I think that the goal is to make the noise a bit louder and more apparent.

I think it's kind of cool. Don't worry, government will likely mandate manufacturers to add some sort of noise makers (sound system) to them to better warn pedestrians to the EV presence).

I don't see any problems here - has been working well for very long time.

If you look at the photo in the first post of this thread it shows the frame engraved with "Birmingham Mich." Here is that photo again:

Bob, looks like you missed the "Copyright by A.M.T. ..." engraved on the right frame rail on one of the photos.

Show is this weekend - I hope you decide to attend.

Yes, those are unusual creations. But to me the front looks like it has a big frown, and the roof line (at least from this angle) has a VW Karmann-Ghia look (not surprisingly). Not ugly, but not beautiful either. Well, that nose just doesn't work for me.

While I don't have this problem (viewing forum on Windows 7 and Seamonkey browser) I think that what others feel frustrating is that the problem is intermittent. Sometimes it works for them, other times doesn't. Problem is that the computer coding has become way too complex and unwieldy (to add more and more features which most people don't use or don't even know about, and of course continuous security fixes). Quality Control of the software products seems to have became a thing of the past. There is no way any company can thoroughly test their code to be sure everything works for all. Sad state of affairs (but we have a plethora features up the wazoo).

Interesting.

I suspect it is

Are we talking about 1:25 scale? 0.016" ignition wire would scale up to 0.4" in 1:1. That's rather thick for spark plug wires. Maybe some specialized high-performance wires?

Thanks Urs, that is (and will be) very informative. I never thought of using black reflective surface, but it makes perfect sense with white backdrop illuminated by an umbrella light. You have some professional photographic equipment at your disposal.

FYI: Natural sunlight is an excellent (and free) source of wide-spectrum UV light. Of course it is not available 24 hours a day, and also depends on the weather conditions. Best is direct outdoor exposure since some glass could filter out some UV rays.

I was not talking about the entire model being 3D printed, but just some of the model's small detail parts. But I also see your point, and we will never know anyway.

Excellent model and superb photography! Looks like you have the model placed on a front-surface mirror, which is a nice effect. But how did you achieve the nice seamless neutral background and very even lighting? Is there some Photoshop trick to it? Maybe you could take some photos of you photo setup and post them in the Tips and Techniques section? I would love to see what it looks like.

I would think that if MR. Wingrove was around and building models today, he would surely embrace and utilize CAD and 3D printing in his scratchbuilt models. Actually he was already using CAD for in his model making. People, it is just another tool in your scratchbuilding tool arsenal. You need to get over this aversion of using computer as a modeling tool. Back in the day handheld calculators were banned from the classroom. Nowadays, calculator is built into every electronic gadget and nobody even notices when it is being used. I really think that at this point this thread has ran its course.

If you are building a model of that specific car then yes. But if you are asking if blue interior, or blue interior in a silver/black exterior color is correct for a factory stock color, then I don't know. Someone knowledgeable on Corvettes will likely chime in and tell us. I assume (by the colors) that it was silver convertible car with blue interior and black roof). Silver car with blue interior doesn't seem like an odd combination, but I would think the roof would be blue too.

I would not leave it (perpetually sticky) under decals or under another layer of paint. You can try using paint thinner (like Testors or even hardware store brand) to remove it. If that doesn't do it, try 91% or stronger Isopropyl alcohol. Neither should attack the rubber or vinyl tire. If that wont' do it, try lacquer thinner (but first test it on the back side of the tire).

Here is a source of some photoetched mesh sheets. http://www.planomodelproducts.com/scratch_scq.html

I was surprised because you seem to be a regular reader of the forum, and the Revell Chrome thread is quite active. Latest post was on Friday (2 days ago), and before that few more posts were made last Wednesday, and Tuesday. So it shows up on the first page of the topics list, or in unread posts. But I guess I really don't know how you read this forum. So yes, I posted a link to let you know that the topic is being extensively discussed.