426-Hemi

Joe, you got a collectors kit then! '66 was and still is a collectors HHUG kit! There were less of them with the '66 Cuda then the one with the '68-9 model made! I too would like to get my hands on a '68' or '69 Cuda, but NOT to have the Hurst Hemi Under Glass decals on it.... Just to make a "street" version, not a race car.

-it is a good point, great direction and advice. please don't get me wrong here. BUT I'm simply to damned hard headed to listen to/for reason, I gotta do everything the hard way..... LOL ask my wife LOL All joking aside, the skill 2 kits well, one I don't have any, and 2, I for the condition my hands were/are in, don't think I did to bad on my '68 Roadrunner build...... NOW however, I'm about to embark in getting my air brush out and see, on scrap what I can do with it and CLEANING it (cleaning it is gonna be the hard part I think), so, we'll see...... Till then I'm building "other" stuff thats gonna be used in up coming builds, engines and such..... As well as machining out parts/details! -I'm just not happy, if I'm not doing something and however fast, moving forward!

NICE!!!!!!!! LOL

I gotta ask ya Joe, is this a TRUE '66 Cuda? I had one of the so-called Hurst Hemi Under Glass kits, and upon opening it, a DEVISTATING surprise, it WASN'T a '66 at all..... they at AMT used the '68-'69 Cuda in place of........... BUT then I heard that the first offerings were the true '66 Cuda, the ones sold from AMT in the 1990's were the '68-9 models......... I just gotta know! LOL I was disappointed when I seen that in my first HHUG kit, Sadly enough I traded one a year ago to another member here, BEFORE I was a member here (I knew him from another site)

Thanks guys! I'm still at the design stage on a few (A LOT of shapes to figure out how to machine), and turn, BUT with that the ole Unimat gets run time (I ENJOY it) plus it keeps the mind sharp all in the while, PLUS those master copies, well, will deserve to be molded and seen hundreds if not thousands of each made over time! Not the first time, and sure won't be the last, thats forsure! Outside of working on the roadrunner, this is what I been up too "machine work" in between times! My next attempt, is machining out HEADS....... I got a V-16 Hemi to build for molding, including, the block, heads, valve covers, oil pan, and intake. (SAME Hemi V-16 seen in my Rat Finkelstein build ) THEN I have to finish up the head work on a Hemi-6 (hint, hint ) And some others I got planned but time...... Its really hard to believe when you sit down and get "hands on" just how much time it takes to do one sit up, chuck up, put in, all thats needed for what seems to be a simply machine skill action, to see the finished "cut" NOT finished product..... as certain things make a "head" for instance, you have to get angles right, 2 different angles per side, and then ANY angles on each end (both matching) and then before all that, when the "block" is 100% square, the thickness cuts BEFORE any angle cuts are made........ It really does get interesting, and needless to say, time consuming. measure 50 times, cut twice. I say this is you cut once, thats the "hog" cut (removes the most stock), and then a 2nd cut as a "finish" cut to get a clean smooth surface! Fun no less, I'm not complaining, not by a long shot I actually enjoy it, as it at times tests what I'm able to do, and how sharp my mind set is to do it, if its complicated...... ALSO, theres NO "programming" with this, I simply make the CAD drawing as a guide/blue print, and then I literally make the part from that "sketch" with the controls of my hands directing the machine!

So with the engine in place........ I had my work cut out for me, the whole engine has A LOT of wires going to and from it. Alternator wires, to the coil, and onto the surrounding places. I also got the windshield wiper "sprayer" tank, in place, painted one color as I had to go back and paint the cap. Then the little hose from it to the wipers themself in place with there rightful "mounts". I had decided to run the alternator wire (blue one) to the coil and then onto the firewall. The other wire from the alternator runs onto the inner fender well to the core support and across to the battery side and through it again. This then goes to the battery terminal. (NOT in place yet) Master cylinder in place, and has its brake lines in place running to the valve manifold below (seen in other posts of the build) and yes........ they ARE connected! Not that it should be here from the factory, BUT I couldn't get much more to go across the firewall with the way my hands are, so here is the battery wire from the alternator going through the radiator core support to run across it, to the other side, near the battery and through it again. -Left "loose" as it needs to go to the battery once in place, and then a second wire off that same battery terminal to the firewall electrical details. More of a shot of that side of the engine compartment. Battery painted, and in place, the wires spoken about in place on it as well. Wiper sprayer tank with "cap" painted! A few other small details seen here too! Alternator wire (black) seen with the horn wire (blue) running to the battery side of the car, to then go to there rightful places, (horn wire directly into the firewall) Something to note here, the Alternator! It was a chrome part that I dipped into Dullcote to get that look, and once dry, applied "copper" color paint to the openings that a real one would have to show the copper wire "windings" in side seen through those openings, which are meant for cooling of it when running. Engine compartment is now Complete, (I may go back and have a look at a detailing part thats just not quite right, BUT will see what I can do about it. Thanks guys!

With the rear differential being in place, meaning all the pipe work on the rear half of the frame is done, fuel lines, brake lines, and exhaust pipe. The drive shaft being made, NOT in place, this means the engine was ready to be installed! SO, having said that, it goes IN! A few things here, 1, notice the engine is FINALLY in place, 2, the trannsmission is completely painted, AND has a distinct transmission "pan", 3, front "larger" diameter drive shaft section is in-place, BUT "setting" (its NOT glued!) UNPAINTED..... This is what I was speaking about a few posts ago. Then: Smaller diameter drive shaft, in-place, now, once "spread" apart, and in place on each end to the transmission, and to the rear differential, a small drop of CA glue applied to the slip joint will hold it in place, but allow the whole "unit to spin freely, to paint ALL sides of it. Painted, and glued solid in place! NOT to shabby! Now that the engine is in place, A BUNCHA detailing is coming! ENJOY, more to follow!

Thanks guys, BUT in my parts kit, I too thought the wiper motor was on the chrome tree, NOTHING at all, and then I seen that it has 2 "normally looking" type horns..... The kit instructions point to that what you both say as the "Beep, Beep" horn as the wiper motor..... This again,. goes to say, its a model, not always clear, and what I have researched, NO it doesn't look nothing like what I have for parts, SO taking what the kit supplied and doing with it what I could, well..... Yeah, the Super Bee kit comes with a SINGLE horn, and a chrome wiper motor, NOT sure WTH the guys molding these kits are seeing/looking at but..... I had assumed the part I used was what they were referring too. -I'm not done with detailing it, BUT, its a bit to late now...... The whole engine compartment is together, I COULD however add a bit of detail to the existing part, to make it look like the one my friend has in his Roadrunner a bit better. (Too much wiring work to go and try to remove it. We'll see what I can do with it, to make it look a bit like the one on my friends car......

This the '41 Dodge COE from Jimmie Flintstone? I've always wondered about that cab, and a way to getthe hood to open (what there is of a hood anyway....)

This has been a trying model but healing me helping me, and most of all will have a "story" behind it as to why I choose this one! SO, moving on with it (I'm posting EVERYTHING new so having said that these picswere taken as I was working, as difficult as it was, I wanted to be able to have something to show for my "healing model" and this is just that! Next up as far as the build, Well continue on with the frame.... I also had to get the drive shaft ready too (different length as the engine is different) so..... The rear having issues being assembled, looks pretty good tho! (I'm surprised it came out as good as it did) Closest line to you in the pic thats the rear brake line supply, seen just in from of the axle going across, nearest the well well you can see the mount that was a white block painted semi-gloss black and had to have a few fittings added to it as the line then goes from a "hard line" to hose for movement of the axle up and down in motion. This is also represented in a painted line in Testors "rubber" paint. One of the things I don't normally do, that I HAD to do on this model was add the wheel backs to the axle. This was due to the axle getting melted from the glue and having a new "end" made to fit the existing part. Because of its design and the new added section to replace the bad area, I had to get the length and mount right to hold the wheel back. SO I could have done just one side, BUT when the time came to add the tires and rims, it would have made that difficult with the circumstances my hands were in during the build. So, while that was drying, I got to looking at the drive shaft, WHAT THE.......? Some detail part, I guess, BUT, WASN'T about to allow it on the model (like a lot of times of other parts) to enhance its looks was in order! I took it off the parts tree, and simply clipped it in half! It then got to take a ride on the Unimat Lathe, to have the ends where I cut it, trued (to be round) and made to fit within the inside diameter of a section of aluminum tubing, that was one end, on a larger diameter piece of aluminum. Then too and did the same to the other end, only difference between the 2 was that this end was made smaller, to fit inside of a smaller "telescopic" piece of aluminum tube, to be able to slide it into the larger one to span the distance from the transmission, to the pumpkin on the rear differential. NOW a short quick lesson, they're made this way in real life. WHY? Well as the car is run, goes over differences in the road up or down hill, crosses a speed bump the rear axle moves, up and down, IF the drive shaft was one piece, and did not extend telescopically, It snap a U-joint! They have to extend and contract to work. SO, this gives making a model version a plus! You can use ANY motor, ANY transmission, and ANY rear differential, NO MATTER what distance apart, you can make the drive shaft fluctuate length to fit, ONCE thats done, add it, (largest end goes to the transmission) have the telescopic aluminum tube at its very shortest length, get it in place and then spread the telescopic tubing larger diameter to the transmission, smaller diameter tubing to the differential, then add a small tooth pick drop of CA to the drive shafts slip joint, allow to dry, and then paint, DO NOT add glue to the joints to the transmission, or the differential, WHY? Cuz, you can "spin" it and paint it in place, just as I will. Once paint is dry, you can then add a VERY SMALL drop of glue to both ends of the drive shaft! More to follow! Stay tuned, and thanks for looking!

-I beg to differ! Said kit, AMT's (Round 2) came with 2 horns, and this so-called "horn" in the instructions, its to be the wiper motor. WHICH, for '68 would have been correct. The wiper motor from say the AMT or MPC '70 Coronet Super bee has the one your thinking of! -Which now, I'll point out with pictures of the REAL car. One of which belongs to a friend of mine, locally. Granted, this is NOT a '68 Roadrunner, BUT shows the same "close looking" part as the kit had, as its wiper motor. Granted, its a model and the parts don't always look as they should so its close. REMEMBER, this kit was to have a 426 Hemi in it, I changed it. SO, your thinking of this wiper motor: This would be the one found in ALL the '70 Dodge Cornet Super Bee kits from AMT-Ertl, AND MPC, ALL of them if I remember correctly are plated chrome! (I have several of those kits) Then I have a friend locally, restoring a '68 Roadrunner...... Heres a build pic I got because of the model I'm building!!!!!!! Turns out, BOTH years of the car, 1968 and 1969 had this type wiper motor. Wasn't till 1970 that it changed and Plymouth used the one your thinking of. IN the kit however, the chrome wiper motor was not present, as was it anywhere else. AND thats when I looked up parts numbers on the instructions as it pointed me to this part, AND I too even questioned the part in the kit! Thats when I went on a hunt to see what was "real" and just happened to notice it on my friends REAL car!

Yeah Tom, you can say that.... I can't even see pieces of cardboard anymore........-Nevermind the pics that might be printed on it!!!!!!

LOVE IT! I want a "street" Demon so bad I ache LOL I wanna do up a car, thats painted similar to this, just regular ole Pro-Street for a local friends REAL car...... (Has a 340 in it the real one I know......)

Thanks Tony, Yes, this is a model of memories.... (Reason I did it) PLUS if I mess it up, not something, I was real concerned with as I just "HAD" to see, to be able to do something..... And meedless to say in the beginning, I had a rough go at it, BUT I kept going, which has actually greatly helped both my hands doing it...... -Plus of it? Look at the model! Thats what I'll have in the end to show for all of it!

That the latest offering from MPC/Round 2 for the '82 Dodge Ram Van? I like it! You done it well outside of the crazy "business" LOL NICE job! I gotta ask tho, (I want one of these 2 if I can get away with it) BUT, whats the engine and stuff like as far as detailing?

-LOVE the added "stuff" in the bed, GREAT detail for a truck! NICELY done over all tho............ I WILL one of these fine days, FIND me an old Dodge Ram 50... yet!

Just the hood pins on hangers............... and the engine WOWZA!!!!!!!

Thanks Carl, thanks Joe! Its GREAT to be back to some extent..... I've got more to add, but because I'm thoroughly enjoying myself, its hard for me to sit and type out long updates (LOL) when I can be getting (trying to make up for lost time) at the bench! -NOT to say being able to somewhat type again is a nice additive too! Joe, you think this is a come back, go look at some of the other things I've posted! I finally figured out where I could put up a thread on all those machined out parts I'm making! Both in plastic, AND Aluminum! Some however, I still have to get pictures of!

My machined master copy parts for molding in resin. Well I guess this is where I'd put this. I'm unsure if it gets moved, someone direct me to where this topic goes in PM! Anyway, while I've been healing, one of the things I found I was able to do with little trouble or hurting myself was run my Unimat Machine center, whether set up as the mill or the lathe didn't matter, I was able to use it endlessly, without any trouble, or hurting myself because of my accident with my hands. SO, Once I learned this, I sat out to use up some scrap plastic I had laying around..... I made up the following: Distributors with drive stems Oil Filters Did not get pics of these once made, BUT I still can as I have a pretty good supply of them now! Then once I seen I could do this with no issues, I tried aluminum, THEN things got interesting! I began turning out the following in Aluminum: Valve cover breathers Magnetos (DIFFERENT from the distributors listed above) Then I found that I had some larger stock, to use for machining. Mostly plastic, BUT...... I turned that and made the following: Lenco 4 Speed transmission: Now as you all know, and know me, I'm a Mopar kinda guy, but this transmission was made to couple to a 440 or a 426 Hemi (respectively) I made it in such a way that it could be used on ANYTHING with little modification, have a look: Seen here in TWO pieces, it will be molded in TWO pieces as well, as this allows the transmission bell housing to be positioned at any side for the "starter buldge" to be placed where needed with little to no modification to the transmission! I have yet to work out if I'm going to offer the shifters with it or not or let that up to the consumer to do, how they see fit. THEN....... I've been doing research, A LOT. Found some interesting things. One of such said things was an intake that Mopar was working on in the early 60's..... BEFORE the 426 Hemi came along! It caught my modelers eye..... A Cross-Ram, (Not so interesting, right? WRONG!) This one, wasn't just "any" cross-ram, it was a quad 4 barrel Carter intake! It had four, 4 barrel carter AFB carburetors on it, 2 on each side of its twin carburetor plane! INSANE, a "16 pack" anyone? WELL, I'm gonna mold this beast! I have extras for the design of, BUT "HAD" to see what troubles I could get into with molding it, as there a lot of "open" ares, as well as some under-cuts so............ I had to play a bit to see where I had to fill in, and what might take to make it so...... Basic Cross-Ram, intake with the tops machined off..... YES I did load this into the Unimat Milling Machine set up and cut the single carb pads off each of the planes! (where the little mount hole is for a carburetor) BUT, then I SEEN something...... What do I have before my very eyes? WELL have a look for yourself, THIS is what I SEEN! What the..........................? Can it be? DON'T rub your eyes! Your NOT seeing things! I seen the space to sit 2, YES TWO (thats no typo) 6 pack set ups! On a SINGLE Cross-Ram intake! SO, NOW, this is 2 completely DIFFERENT intakes, out of one casting, but, it doesn't end there...... OHHH NO..... Heres the REAL four 4 barrel Carter Cross-Ram: Something isn't it? Yeah you bet it would have been! There wasn't many of them made! These were made BEFORE the 426 Hemi came along, BUT was fitted to the same engine! See, Mopar had the 426 Wedge going and was a VERY strong engine for its time! BUT it was getting to the end of its usefulness! Thats when they began trying different carburetor set ups on it. Then it came down to have the 426 Hemi take over. BUT, before that happen, the got to the point of trying a wild cross-ram on it with the four 4 barrel carter AFB carburetors on it. The "orange" one, is the "standard" issue cross-ram. 2 Carter 4 barrel AFB carburetors, then its WILD version beside it, unpainted, four carter 4 barrel AFB carburetors! Then I think they got to the point that it was "over Carburetion" and dropped it after this: This guy was part or something to take the standard version 2 carter 4 barrels, and add a plate that bolted in place of the carbs, to be a span to make a normal cross-ram except 4 carburetors at once! I don't think it lasted long as I have yet to have seen this. Its been said that this set up is nearly impossible to get working correctly!!!! NOW......... Back to the model building for a bit. I plan to take and make not only the twin 6 pack version, BUT a single 6 pack version, as well as the four 4 barrel version, and then an add-on kit to take a standard cross-ram and add four 4 barrels to it, with the plate like seen in the guys hand! I've got a ways to go on all this as my hands aren't permitting me to make any molds, BUT, what I am able to do is physically sit down and make the master copies for when the time comes! Granted this is a load of parts coming from me in a time well...... All I have is time at this point, All in the while moving forward in my part making and offering them! Let me know what you guys think..... A little input is always good! Thanks for looking!

WOW that looks SWHAAAAAAWEEEEEEEET! I love the what looks to be GOLD BMF. is it? or is that a reflection from the color making it look that way!? I gotta ask, these kits pricey? (I wouldn't mind locating one if I can afford it!)

Thank ya Vince, MUCH appreciated, needless to say sitting around not being able to do much for over a month, well was driving to CRAZY (I know I KNOW, thats a short drive) BUT. I just couldn't take it no more and really, I'm glad I pushed myself, as this is turning out well as well as the work its done to my hands with therapy.... I don't need near as much as they had first proposed. BUT the thing with the model building thats really helped is dexterity, AND desensitization, the feeling in my hands is a bit strange, I guess would be the best way to say it, not exactly painful or anything but, odd to say the least. I do have moments where they do hurt from over doing things, and it took a few "tries" to know the signs that I'm gonna be sore for a day or so..... BUT I pushed through it all and I'm getting there. Like I've mentioned, I can't use my air brush just yet,and certain things are a bit of a trial, BUT I'm getting it, the worse part is the missing finger tip on my left hand, its a bit strange to see, never mind try to use! Its still a bit "touchy"...... I'll be sending you a PM in a bit. Got a few thoughts!

Just an added tid-bit, but did you ALL know that Testors Enamels, are in fact made at the same paint laboratory as Rustoelum paints? Rustoelum, Testors, Boyd, Floquil, and quite a FEW "Finger nail polishes" ALL come from that one single paint lab! Granted, each are slightly different "bases", Lacquer, Spirits, and even Xylene. BUT ALL are "compatible" enamels...... I use all of them, and can and do spray them with my air brush. Sadly, I'm not a big fan of Acrylics..... I just don't get the outcome from them as I do enamels, BUT, acrylics make a GREAT weathering type paint for dry brushing, highlights, and or to go over chrome, and what fins to come out "chrome but the rest of the part a different color. I've argued the point of "mixing" paint types, and if done right, you won't have any issues! You spray, enamels first ALLOW to cure, NOT just "dry" it must be cured fully. THEN you can apply anything over it. As long as the paint going over it isn't got a stronger solvent base! I have painted things with enamels, allow to cure, and then use water-based craft paint to weather, allow again to cure, and then spray a lacquer clear cote over it! -The finish? AMAZING! Just a little food for thought!

Well being happy with what I've accomplished on the engine, I wanted to sit it aside for a bit, to take a break, (quite intense work on it to say the least) So, that I could put it down and simply pick up another "area" of the model not yet touched...... The surrounding engine compartment! SO, this is where trouble starts. I had to pick a color for the car. Remembering that if I am to finish this car, I'd have to pick a color that I could spray paint on with a spray can, NOT my air brush! First color that came to mind was some sort of red...... SO, red it was, BUT what "shade" of "red" was I to use....... I did a couple days of research online to see what colors of red these cars came in, in '68...... Plymouth Roadrunners were very basic, standard colors as the '68 model year, was thee first year for the Roadrunner. Wasn't a lot of options to choose from to say the least, Plymouth "Tor-Red" (Same as Dodge "Hemi Orange"), a bright red, Plymouths "Matador Red" (same as Dodges "red"), and then Chryslers Red was "Scorch Red", as well as Imperials "Flame Red". SO this color was my best choice, and Testors red 1103 in the 1/4th ounce bottle, OR Testors red Spray paint 1203. SO thats what it was gonna be, it was close (NOT exact) but close enough for me. NOW that I had a color for the body, how was I to spray it? I got lucky! I had the 1203 Testors red in a spray can! (Chalk one up on John's paint inventory!) So, I got the engine compartment made, the firewall, the inner fender wells, and the radiator core support all assembled, NOT detailed and began spraying much the same way I did the frame, with a bit smaller of a can so it was just a tad easier to do! Once painted, and dried good, (sat about 2 days) I gave it a light coat of clear lacquer gloss to make it shine as well as the body will when I get that far, ALSO in a spray can! Once that had all dried, and sat for 2 days to all dry to be handled for detailing, I began working on other aspects to fill in the time. As your about to see.... So having said that it was time to think about wheels. What rims was I to pick for this car? My first thought was steelies, with dog dish hub caps, BUT I didn't have the correct ones, and so, I wasn't about to use my Rallye rims on this car, (I have others getting those rims! As I favor the Mopar Rallye rims!) So yet again, back to the parts organizer I went... I wanted something, but what? I really wanted to use Steelies but, I didn't have the right hub caps to fit and the tires I had are on another model so I had to pass and come up with another idea. So as it stands, I'll be putting Mopar "Magnum 500" rims on this one! (Not my choice of rims), BUT will look good and they're from another model kit that I want the Mopar Rallye's on ANYWAY So, they won't need to be stored in an organizer! SO..... Heres what they look like from what I did! I took a paint stick I use to hold things to paint, added tape to hold the rims and brush painted the center parts semi-gloss black, and allowed to dry, once dry, went back and drilled holes to add valve stems to them, which can be seen from the lower edge of the stick, on the rim, super glued from the INSIDE of the rim, to not have the chrome fog up with the white stuff the fumes create! After a day worth of that, and picking details (took a bit to pick out rims and make sure they fit the tires as well as the wheel backs). I then checked to see if the engine compartment was ready for detailing, and it WAS. SO, off we go.............. SO, the first thing done was painting all the electrical boxes on the firewall semi-gloss black, and then to get it all right, a bit of online research to make sure. Painted the wiper motor gloss black, and then it was off to the races with wiring and plumbing, so the first plumbing done was the front brake cross-over line, that will couple to the valve manifold on the frame, and run across both ways to be plumbed into the frame with a brass fitting on both ends, and mounted to the firewall just as if it was a real car! Wiring is NEXT..... The holes drilled for the battery cables, the starter, the coil, and alternator..... I used ALL wire scraps from previous model builds to lesson the amount I had laying around for the short stuff! I try to use up as much as I possibly can to not have so much laying around and have to store all the scraps..... Stay tuned! More to come!

Now that the frame is to the point its at. I was sort of "stuck" I had a buncha little stuff to do on the engine, and a lot to do else where...... THEN the night I was last working on the frame, the following day I had an appointment to see the doctor for a check up (follow up) from having the pins removed, and they had opened up the use for yet one more finger! my right hands "middle finger", which with that I learned that the middle finger of everyone's hand is the hands source of strength! (I did not know this!) as its centered, and has thee largest tendon to it. Mine originally was in-tact, working but sore, and I didn't know why till they opened up its use, it was slightly cut, down between my fingers, the ring and the middle. Not cut loose, but "nicked" and had to heal. ALL of the little webs between each of my fingers on my right hand got nicked, and had stitches in them! Because my hands were all wrapped up in the casts and such, I did not know all of this! SO, this gave me some more use, and at that time, I felt as tho, my right hand was able to carry on with detailing the engine, SO...... I tried, heres how that turned out! So you see that the plug wires are in place, neatly tucked as they should be, with wire loom wraps, as well as the carburetor fuel line and filter in place, followed by the coil and its wire in place! The fuel filter is difficult to see in this shot, but it is there in behind the distributor, kinda right behind that, and the draped plug wires in the front. -I even went as far as to try and add "boots" to the plug wires and the coil, and now that my dexterity was better, I was able..... SO, the plug boots are on the wires, as seen on the coil as well. What fun it was, but it was exciting to see that I finally could get just that step closer to my normal detailing self! Now ya can see the fuel filter, not well, but you can see it, as well as the draped wires from the distributor off the other side of the engine too! Side view, showing the wire looms in place, as well as the insert PCV boot in the valve cover. Also pictured, the engine WAS a MPC 440, that had a standard transmission on it, JUST the bell housing. I removed that and replaced it with one of my own 727 Torqueflite transmissions, just to be different. This seen transmission is one of my resin parts! I'm glad I had extra's of them made up, as mold making, and mold pouring right now are near impossible without more waste then good usable parts! Now you see the PCV valve in place, with its connecting hose to the carburetor, from the valve cover. Also seen here was a VERY fun part to make, the little danged oil dip stick! I had a terrible time making that even with my hands being better, but, I fought through and there ya see it! -I'm impressed over the fact that I could do what you all see here, it was trying, to say the least, BUT all of this aided my healing and helped with the dexterity of my hands while healing, and not "hurt" or hurt myself, doing it! Having said that, I also went as far as to adding the carburetor linkage, AND return spring! Also all seen here! side view showing the throttle linkage and spring a bit better. As well as the throttle cable going behind the engine that will lead into the firewall once in place! I also painted a bit onto the transmission as the other side got the transmission dip stick because its and automatic transmission! I left the end unpainted, to have a place to hold onto it without marring the paint as the paint seen, is the first light coat, it will get a complete coat, and then once dry a light second coat to even it all out. This shot, rear of the engine furthermost corner away you can see a gloss black wire, thats the trans fluid dip stick "handle" or pull. Very basic engine, but serves a purpose, not over complicated, and looks good all in the while. Thats what the '68 Roadrunners were about! Simple, powerful and effective, at a good cost, NO wonder they sold so many of them! More to follow, stay tuned!

Thanks David! I enjoy it..... Very much appreciated, and please, keep in mind, this is lacking in some areas too...... I began this build, right after a bad firework accident I was in, this is my "healing model" to show what I was able to do, starting out on it with only the use of 2 fingers on my right hand, and the left hand was not usable at all! More to come.....