426-Hemi

Lindberg? What ya think of that kit? (I been pondering getting one), BUT I know its a snap-tite kit, BUT I got the means to dump a Mopar 318 Magnum in mine (if I get one!) Looks like a half ways decent kit for a snap-tite kit. The truck on the box, that I've seen doesn't show itto be 4x4 or 2x4 drive, which is it? -Sorry for all the questions, but I had to ask, as this kit has my interest, I just don't know yet. a lot depends on what kinda truck its to be! A Durango, now theres an idea!

I took a WHOLE engine and chromed it with Alclad paint..... A Dodge "Red Ram" Hemi going into a Dodge Deora pick-up that I'm further customizing. From box stock (I wanted the kit for the Slant 6 engine), to start with BUT got to lookin' at it and thought a little "Baby Hemi" supercharged be a perfect fit....... Granted, this whole engine was brush painted gloss black from Testors, and then when dry, I dipped a cleaned brush into the Alclad chrome and basically, "blotted" the Alclad over the black. I found brushing it, the swipe of the bristles doesn't go over well, blotting however well, you can see! -I think it looks pretty good! BE SURE when you use Alclad tho, that the gloss black is ENAMEL, nothing else, it won't stick, OR "shine".... -Flat black base will make the chrome look "Aluminum". I also brush paint the Testors Metalizer paints too! -These MUST BE painted over bare plastic........ as they don't work otherwise!

So while I was adding the fuel lines, I totally spaced the radius rod for the steering! I got the fuel lines done, and right to making and adding that steering rod to the frame!!!! VERY DIFFICULT, to do and to see in the pic. BUT I managed to get it on there!!!! I had to test fit the engine a few times to make sure placement of things was right and noticed the engine didn't quite sit right. SO, I had to modify the mounts just a little, wasn't to bad to do! So once that was done, back to where I left off on the steering details! I also had yet to add the actual steering shaft, leading from the firewall to the steering gearbox! SO, off to the parts bins I went to see what I had suitable for the detail.... a small shaft of some sort (has a U-joint sort of in it) so, thats what it was gonna begin from! Its built, and in place, to stay, but needed painted which I did as you see it! Painted, to stay, and now everything looks pretty good! I am getting ready to install the 318 engine..... More to come as progress happens, ENJOY!!!!!

So a bit more to add..... I left off with adding the brake line to the rear axle, NOW its time I get the fuel lines in place. Dads truck, had the fuel tank behind the bench seat, in the cab! SO, having said that, (a bit different for me) I had to come up with what needed done to get them in place.... I had to locate where they would pass through the floor panels, and follow the frame rails to the front, (or towards it anyway) to the "T" that has the return line. Seen above is the "T" in brass, with mounting pad, as well as the dual lines headed back to the tank through the floor! Seen here is the front line out of the "T" to the engine's mechanical fuel pump. It goes over the top of the engine mount, to a bracket that has 2 fittings, one to hold the "hard" line and on the other side, a fitting to couple a hose top it from the mechanical fuel pump thats on the engine. Short post, More to come after these short messages!

OUCH. that hurts to look at AND the wallet I have, and I didn't even pay for it! DANG......

-I didn't even know it existed till I read your message here!!!!!!

Thats not Pam by a LONG shot!!!!!

The magic of 1/87th........ -No trains tho..............

LOVE IT!!!!! I myself, would LOVE to find one of these, and hack that hood right open and dump a B 400 block under the hood (big block Mopar made/offered starting in '72) and then keeping it a somewhat "sleeper" too......... I got to say the headlight work you did was MUCH better then what it shows to be on the box! BUT that too, I'd have to open the engine compartment on the frame, OR fit it to another frame. BUT I know something MORE would happen to it. NIICE job so far!

-I myself, use a Piriform "CCleaner". This program removes unused, unwanted, content and opens memory for the RAM, the disk space, freeing up space that your computer fills with everything you do on it as a "memory" of action, this opens a tremendous about at times (I run a scan of it once a week) Also adds to the speed of your computer done regularly, as it frees up RAM usage! Free and easy! (And no I'm not in any way connected to this company, I'm merely stating that it works, and works well!) would recommend it to anyone! https://www.piriform.com/ccleaner/download As for photo hosting, I myself use a place called "Hubgarage" its actually for real cars, BUT they have an "art" section, for those who draw, build models, you name it as long as its "art" NOTHING you'd see elsewhere, (they even say on the site "Do NOT post something you wouldn't show your Mamy"........... and unlike my experience with photobucket (only worked for me about 3/8th the time!!!) SO I switched, have had NO issues since, and theres NO LIMIT! And in "talking" its like a cleaned up garage atmosphere between the members. -A LOT of good guys over there. AGAIN I'm in NO WAY connected to this site, I'm merely stating that I've had good luck with its services..... www.hubgarage.com Hope this helps!

WELL. I got a few missing ones..... From this past Monday, went to a local AC Moore thats in the process of moving (they say) but have no "plot" location yet, but. half the store was 50% off, spent like $50 there (Wife &I) I can home with Badger Air Brush PARTS ONLY needles, nozzles, seals, spent $4.00 for the "lot" and priced over $150.00 worth, as they were not only marked half price, but BEFORE the store liquidation, they were like 40% off...... THEN hit the rest of the store, had nothing for paint, but the model section (from the last time I was there on my birthday) WAS slammed! They went for a 16 foot wall mount display, to 4 foot tall by 4 foot wide display (3 shelves)! Naturally me being me, I looked for anything "Mopar" and by God, they had one! ONLY ONE! A '06 Dodge Magnum..... Notice I say "HAD" one. LOL Yep I came home with it for $7 and some change as it too was pre-marked down to I think it was $13.98 so....... Then it got the store wide 50% off......... THEN hit the necklace area for beads for gearshift knobs, and metal rings for Venturi's in carburetors, and fittings among other uses, as well as metal wire for necklace making, found a BUNCH of that too! I myself, spent something to the tune of $20 I think, the wife spent more then I did..... BUT I too came home with more value then she, she got a lot of stuff, but mine sadly costs more then hers so....... (She does a lot of craft stuff) Dioramas and such..... THEN, I today, got high speed internet (25KBPS speed on DSL) was at 3 KBPS! and a working phone and can be doin' both at once!!!!!! Could do them both at once before, but the 'net would slow down while on the computer if the phone rang.... Had something to do with the way Fairpoint Communications system works.. NOW the phone doesn't slow down the 'net for us. 3 computer, 2 Kindles, 2 phones and 3 game consoles.......Out of it all? I use one computer!!! (I could care less about the rest of the 'net devices)

Joe, AHHHH-HUH I see now. but could you have shortened the inner fender wells to accommodate the issue? OR was it because the shape of them not fitting the firewall as made? (Excuse my ignorance I haven't EVER built one of the '56 Ford trucks! I'm merely trying to understand the model itself!) BUT then if you had, I wouldn't have seen what your doing here, SO, its a win for me if and when I get to that point on my own model that needs inner fender wells. -Just haven't decided if I'm gonna add inner fenders or not at this point! (I'm back to building my "Father & Son" set......... YAY!!!!!!!!! And yes, if you took ALL the markings off them, you CAN polish that to be shiny.... And I bet that some dang good too! (Now theres a thought!) A Dremel could really POLISH them up nice........ with a cotton wheel! -High speed, bright finish, faster the better......BE SURE to wear eye protection doing this, it will spatter you with the polishing compound!!!!!

So, A little on this build. I had to come to the conclusion for a short time, I have to sit this one aside everyone! SADLY, I was really into it, BUT to proceed on the build, I need some parts, I don't have and have to order them. (I'm wanting specific tires for this one), and having said that, they're pretty big, SO, in order to continue I need those tires that I don't got. BUT this is how I came to that conclusion, the other night setting and working on it, little stuff (mostly touch-ups) I thought, about the axles and how they were going to be, and then I thought, the tires I want are the Super Swamper TSL Bogger tires, 44 inchers.... Pretty big tires, even for 1/25th scale compared to others, BUT the largest "street" 4x4 tires I have and used, are 38's then from 38's right to the BIG monster truck tires! SO, having this in mind, I need to make sure the axles height is sufficient for tire clearance, AND look right..... SO I may need to add a lift kit to the cab and bed! We'll see, BUT because I need to check this I thought, what else can I do? WELL, I thought about seeing how the frame looks all "Articulated", BUT without having the tires and rims, how was I to do that, thats when I remembered they were done on my Dads truck in my "Father & Son" build. SO I got that kit out to just mock-up the dream truck to see how the articulation worked! Never mind look..... ...Just like the real Willock Swivel-Frame truck, the frame twists at the swivel, and with that, opposite sides of the truck opposite corners, 2 different "heights" of inclination, ALL 4 tires remain touching the ground surface! A-W-E-S-O-M-E!!!!! -I used the axle/differentials from my Dads truck to try this, as you'll see, they are NOT made to fit this particular truck LOL Back view..... The rear differential fits BUT the tires for what I'm trying to achieve, aren't nearly big enough (even those on my other truck as the "Son" my truck, aren't big enough. those ones are only 40 inch tires..... These on Dads truck I think are standard street tires! SO...... Front tweaked right up there............ Again, both front tires, STILL in contact with the ground surface. -This is where you'll notice, the front axle is NOT made to fit this truck! -I have to have the tires and rims in hand to make up these for this specific truck SO, is the reason, I have to sit it aside till I have them. So, having said that, thats when I seen that my Father & Son build "Dad's" truck was able to have some more done to it since my hands are able to detail, so. we'll be carrying on that build, as this one waits! Till next time, ENJOY!

WELL, well well, it sure has been awhile, on this model! (My accident well, yeah, you know all about it!) ANYWAY, I had gotten to the point on my "Dream Truck" build that I needed more parts to continue so... (I have to order the parts, when I have the spare $$$ to do so) SO, I sat it aside and just pulled out another that I had already got a good go on and in doing so, I seen this one, having ALL the details on the differentials, both front and back, and seen I had the suspension in place, followed by the brake lines were also don, SO.... I thought having a lot of the hard work already done, WHY NOT? pick back up where I left off, assembly and adding the remaining detail as I went. (SOME small details had to changed from my prior work in order to get it all to fit. SO, to re-start this build, I took the firewall and got a good look at what I had originally done, and what was remaining to be needed. Well was pretty much done besides needing some wiring holes drilled into it (almost impossible for me to get pics of!) BUT I seen that it needed brake lines coming from the master cylinder, and some other wires added, BUT, those other wires, won't be in-place till AFTER the firewall goes onto the frame, and the motor is in place! I did the brake lines on my spring arbor to get them as-seen, line (or close) to what they'd be on a real car or truck. Thing is, these have to done a special way as the area they are. the inner fender wells of the truck model make for TIGHT clearances in this area, so.. PLUS, I had to add in a triple valve to the ends of them, and mount it to the frame. I had to pre-think how this was going to go from my last truck (my truck) in this build as they BOTH have the steering shaft work in them, so I had to plan for its placement, as well how things would go, around it. Then once that as all done on the firewall, I had before me was thee engine! This happens to be a Mopar 318 LA. Thing is, my Dad changed his in real life (He changed EVERY "318" he owned), in all of my life and know about, as ALL Mopar LA 318 (NOT to be confused with the 318 "Magnum" 2 different engines!), were made with a 2 barrel carburetor. Dad, well he was him, and as I know him, and know how he like "upgrading" as he called it, things, he took a 4 barrel intake from a Mopar LA 360 and added it to the 318. The 318-340 & 360 could all take intakes from one to another AS LONG as they weren't "High-Performance" intakes as those were found on the 340. They had different "runner" set ups, that wouldn't work on the 318's without a head change. ANYWAY, I noticed a few small details not on the model 318 of mine here. One being the transmission dip-stick for the automatic Mopar 727 Torqueflite wasn't made and added. Seen here: I had made my own head-bolt "hanger" to support the top end of the dip-stick, and be able to "shape" it around the head, and exhaust manifolds..... And for what it is, and was, looks pretty good! The engine isn't "missing" anything else right now, (I have yet to address the air cleaner, BUT that will be done once its in the frame, and the engine compartment is around it. SO, that is missing, but will come! A little detail touch up once all the handing is done (motor in the frame to stay) is when that will happen. SO then, I got to looking at the frame, and you know, I had the axles done, ready to go in place, and I had a look over them to see if they were missing any of my "standard" details BEFORE they were added to the frame as the frame at this point, had ALL of its suspension in place, just waiting to have the axles added. SO..... Just a "quick" mock-up" of the frame and all to make sure the axles were the same height and the truck sat level front-to-back, and side-to-side. SO, here we have it! Mock-up, looks pretty dang good from here! SO, being it is, I've added the axles both front and back, centered the wheels in the wheel wells, with the body in place and glued the 4x4 differentials in place. Nice thing is, this build is "low" (not exactly my thing on a 4x4 of this type) BUT, thats how my Dad had it, he wanted a reliable, everyday driver, with a little power but be "pleasing" to drive and all for work, so he kept it "stock" for the most part, ALL that I know he changed in owning this truck, was the engines valve covers, air cleaner, oil and transmission dip stick "ends" ALL were "Dress-up" parts in chrome, (YEAH, he LOVED chrome!) He undercoated the whole thing underside. And added the white spoke rims (if I remember correctly, he got the truck with steel wheels (NO Hub caps) so....I think he also had planned to put dual exhaust on it, BUT that never happened, the flood took the truck before he got to add dual exhaust out the back..... This I remember talks of it by family members.... I also think/recall he added a little chrome "bling" in the interior, but nothing more then chrome knobs on the automatic gear shift lever on the column. MAYBE the turn signal lever, (I can't remember!) So. I'll be talking with my uncle, to see, if he remembers/knows or not. -He helped my Dad a lot on doing stuff like this that was those 2's "past time"... Front differential in place. (MAN, the spots!) Thats dust! And I "dusted" them BEFORE working on them, or taking these pictures! Probably doesn't help that there is a lot of "black" paint...... Shows every speck of dirt. ANYWAY, The differential has its cross hard line brake line on it, as can be seen, as well as the "hose" on either end going to the brake rotor. As well as all its fittings. I had all this DONE! So really all I have to do here is add the bell-crank, that is for the steering from the gear box, to the radius rod that actuates the steering, when the wheel is turned inside the cab. That one detail is al lthat remains here, I have yet to make this part, I'm trying to work around what is needed thats a bit more in-depth of work, as this won't take a lot to make. So with that we'll more right to the rear differential! Not to shabby here either, the part already had its hard brake line running across the axle length, so checking for any loose parts (MAYBE, if any) and that they all were detailed, so with that, all was great. I just had to find the "center" of the wheel well for mounting it. Done and in-place!!!!! All that remains now is the brake hose connecting the axle hard line to the frame hard line, and its fittings, which is made, and I got the fittings painted, I have yet to paint the wire as the hose..... Also got to looking a the spare tire..... Looks really good, BUT I have to make the wheel mount to hold it in place as of yet, Thats coming, just not right now! I'll make that once I have the frame DONE, ready for interior work for the cab. As normally, I work at the model in the following order: Engine, DETAIL, transmission, DETAIL, frame, DETAIL, suspension, DETAIL, axles, DETAIL, Wheels & Tires, DETAIL, Interior, DETAIL, body DETAIL, -Complete. With having said that, The last details to be added, would be the bumpers, (in this case) any "in the bed details" I plan to add, and then the spare tire details, (I had to get the spare done for frame placement to aid in the location/how run the exhaust. Just for pre-planning. Granted, thats why I'm not going to continue any further on the spare and its detail as it will be in place and removed several times before the model is all done! So I thought I'd show pics of the rear portion to clarify the placement and details of the rear axle and stuff. Then, moving right along..... We get to the engine compartment. I took and mounted the firewall in place AFTER the brake lines from the master cylinder were dry and paint was dry.... While it was setting I set down to make the triple valve. Got it painted, and once that was placed onto the ends of the brake lines, the whole sub-assembly was located to the frame and mounted. Then I allowed that to dry, and moved right along on the frame as then, all the brake lines coming and going from the triple valve needed made and installed. Which seen here: All that is in place! UNPAINTED but in-place. I'll go back and paint it once its dry, to keep from having to do it twice. (tight quarters) You can see how the triple valve was mounted and all the lines ran from it. Other side of the firewall (behind it) to show the triple valve rear brake line feed. This is it for now till more progress is done, I just re-picked up this model to continue its build, SO there will be a bit to do, for pictures as I continue.... BUT as time goes and things are done, more will follow, stay tuned! (I'll go till I get to a place, I can't continue either with needing something, or limitations from my hands..... BUT that, we'll see! ENJOY!

I've always had a soft spot for the '55 to '58 Chevy's. specially the trucks! This one is top notch man, NICELY done on ALL the body work!

NICE!!!! The tires and rims get me, what those from? (I need a set of Super Swamper 44's.) ERRRR SO. I'm looking at my choices and alternatives!

-NICE soda can aluminum work! (PLEASE, don't take this the wrong way) but, why? The kit itself doesn't come with inner fender wells? I can tell you, I'll be trying this for one of my own builds I think! we'll see! (I'll be sure to mention this build for the inspiration to my own! IF I use this idea!)

Greg, Yeah I'm not doin' to bad............. (Been thinkin' of this set too, I'm able to "build" so... which my Dads truck in this is in pieces, needing assembly, as a lot of the hard stuff was done before my accident so..... BUT I got the dream truck going right now, (May work work on both as at times its hard to go back and forth with one model as things get painted, glued has to dry, you can only jump around on one model so much till it all has to sit to dry........... SO. been thinkin' of a lot of them I got goin' on!

Thanks Dave! A lot of work but in the end, I THINK it be worth the efforts I put forth. I am however having a blast. the engine is a trick all in itself. A LOT of planning and work involved to make it happen! -The air cleaner(s) are gonna be tricky tho.... (I think for what I'm trying to do, like a lot of this model, I'm going to have to make!) As I want it all to fit UNDER the factory hood! That will be addressed once the front frame section is ready to have the engine put in it to stay, and can be then looked at to get the air cleaner(s) to fit under the stock hood!

Just to chime in here, I myself CAN'T do paypal either.............. Reason I "trade" a lot. I don't have a debt card, or a credit card for that matter and the local places that sells the "rechargeable" cards want more then the item is selling for just to "recharge" it like you would at the counter..... I find that a bit insane to go that route when your spending more for just the ability. When ya don't have a bank, you can't take ANY other forms of payment, as they won't just "cash" them, UNLESS you have a bank account with them! Postal Money orders, ARE granted full tender at ANY US Post Office........... no "account" or fee's apply UNLESS your buying one, BUT you get a lot of control when ya do.... They can cancel it if the items are not received, PLUS, they carry clout for fraud.....A LOT of it. Western Union, Money Gram doesn't offer ANY of this, and most banks, won't (local to me anyway) "cash" then due to the fraud factory of these. Postal Money Orders don't have this problem! They can check to see if its legit in the matter of 30 seconds, the rest takes a week.....

-NIICE!!!! (I been thinkin' of getting the stuff from Hart's to make a '70 Coronet R/T) This helps to show me the quality in there resin parts! -What ya plans for an engine?

Well time for a short update. A lot has been going on so I have not had the bench time I would have liked! BUT, I am still moving forwards! Just some basic left-overs, and even scraps...... I wanted the differentials to be "bigger" much heavier duty.... PLUS I wanted "chrome" cover plates.... (I may even do "pumpkin" skid plates, not sure yet) BUT making the both the front and the back more heavy duty then whats given in the kit was the seeked "look". BUT, I also wanted the cover plate to be chrome too. SO, I had to take what I had for "stock" to make this happen and begin.... What the scraps and left-overs became. See, the whole reason for this post, is this: So with this, the first thing I did was take the factory kit offered rear differential and glued the 2 halves together, left to dry. THEN I went to my parts organizer, to see what I might have had for the chrome cover plate. FOUND only one (BUT I know a kit that has another just like it, that will get the one I remove!) BUT that leaves the size..... I had to find a new mounting lip that would look the part on the model as the part I cut off. So off to my sheet styrene bin I went, and got something that had the same thickness or close to that the rear pumpkin had on it that I had to run a razor saw through in order to remove the cover. Found something to use for this, took the chrome rear plate, sat it on the scrap piece of styrene, traced it and roughed it out, by clipping with end nippers. Once happy, I lightly filed each "side" of it, to get it as close to the chrome cover as possible without overdoing it. Once done, I applied my liquid glue inside the pumpkin through the hole that I left cutting of the cast-in cover plate, to secure the inside of it a little better, and then put the plate I just made on. With extra glue, I added to really soften the edges, I went as far as "smushing" it so the liquid glue would attack the plastic enough to look like a plastic bubble. This gives a concave look from where the plate meets the actual pumpkin. Let to dry/cure, THEN you seethe sprue, and the long tube..... This is where it gets a bit more interesting! See, these factory Dodge truck kits from AMT (-now by Round2) one of the things I noticed, on my last truck frame, the rears when glued together doesn't make the axle "round" its more oblong, and or "egged" in shape at a "profil look" Sadly, this doesn't allow for it to sit right, easily into the suspension. Especially perpendicular to the frame to be "straight across" to be in the right place of the wheel openings on the bed! PLUS, like I mentioned I wanted to "beef it up" in looks all around, NOT just the pumpkin. SO that skin-colored sprue was the insert.... I was going to cut off BOTH sides of the axle...... FROM the pumpkin. This would open up a hole on each side of the pumpkin, to allow me to drill a slightly smaller (light pressfit) hole to push that shaft into and out through the other side. Did this, and then cut the tube, that you seen, to fit each side of the pumpkin. To show, you, it now looks like this: I took baking soda, and super glue to beef up the pumpkin itself, and filed it to shape it, a bit, (it will be seen better once it has a single coat of paint to enhance the looks to be seen better, I'll then choose to add more "beef" OR finish it as-is, depends on what it looks like at that time! In the picture its sitting on that plate I added for the mount lip of the chrome cover plate. Now, the interesting part. Hows it all fit on the frame? I don't think its too bad! I got A LOT to add to it yet, but its looking pretty good! NOW if you look, the pumpkin, is facing a bit, downward seen here but right side up, it be facing upwards. Know why? Because of the design the drive shaft is short here, so in order to keep extreme angles of it down, they turned the rear as needed to lesson this effect..... (Hence this is why I may go and add pumpkin skid plates) NOT sure yet, as they would be thee last detail I'd be adding. Seen at a different angle. This shows ALL that I have done so far! Granted if you look there is still a lot to be done! And for what I can see, I think most if not all my detail efforts will be able to be seen when all said and done! Thanks for looking more to come as I get things done and pictures taken!

LOL Dale, my wife told me the last trip to the Pharmacy, that I had to "lay off" the finger nail polish LOL Everyone looked like, WTH? LOL BUT not only it look good on MY model cars, but I think shes jealous as it also look good on HER nails too! (I think shes jealous that I use girlie products and have about as much as she does. BUT mine however NOT goin on my nails WHAT fingernails? LOL I'm missing one, and the rest well...... they're on a workin mans hands..... I do however LOVE the looks ya get buying them as a man, I've noticed they always seem to look at my hands........ too dang funny!!!!!!! This one your doin is gonna be AWESOME!

MY goodness............ Dale you and that danged air brush man! WOW! The engine looks KILLER, but that body, the fender flares, added to the paint job you sprayed down, DANG man, does it EVER end with you? LOL -I too am gonna be doin' a bit of "Nail polish" paint jobs... all I plan to say is I found some 2 for $1 at the local Pharmacy, Rite-Aid, Thats going on one of 3 '41 Plymouths I'm gonna be doin' up in the near future (MIGHT actually do the body on that one first BEFORE the rest. a switch from my normal, but thats a ways off..... I'm workin' on my trucks still..... -Seen the nail polish and HAD to have it....... nice color for an old street rod! That '60 Impala your doing is da BOMB man! NICE work!

Supply lines to?? Fuel? (I believe your speaking of) In order to have a restored car, they at Mopar or elsewhere offer anything but..... SO in that regard, a "new" update for the car, I thought was appropriate.