426-Hemi

-I just wanna try it on tires once to see how it works and if its worth the effort....... MAYBE try it on a junk piece of chrome and see what happens there too. BUT I'm not "sold" on it yet.....

Looks GREAT now, MINE was the same as yours KP at one time, but I'm remodeling mine now. or will be (started too then had to go in the hospital for a scheduled procedure) but, will continue when Doc says I'm back to normal routine..... Always nice to see others work shops/areas!

Thanks Joe! This has been a fun build, even if I did take a short break from it to remodel at least one bench in my shop till I knew I was headed to the hospital for the procedure on my legs. I knew once I got home, from that, I'd be on light duty so. kinda had it all planned to go as it is, which is a good thing.............. a little remodeling in the shop, surgery, and then some model building bench time..... worked out pretty good, and the modeling bit of it, allow me to do something and not hurt myself doing so! PERFECT way to heal don't ya know!?

GAWD, and here I thought I was ALONE with all the "started" WIP's I've got going....... Aparently, we both aren't suffering from it............ LOVE the Western Star! ('d love to score the big bunk from Italeri) from years ago......

I myself WILL NOT use it for a finish either, I'm a BIG and I mean BIG Testors supporter, been using it for years and do very well with it. (I have some Testors paint, like new, from 1977! AND it still works as tho it was bought, yesterday! HOWEVER, I want to try it for a tire cover, to add decals to vinyl tires...... AND maybe "protect" chrome plating, I've read where it doesn't change the chrome "shine" when added! -I am skeptical on this one.... But adding decals to tires, I hear it is the best, which is why I wanna try it, PLUS I've read where it will "seal" white gel pen ink markings on raised tire letters to not rub off....... Tried that locally, both stores, BOTH managers are numb...... or act like it! Had no idea what I was even talking about, or referring too!

Thanks Mike, I'll have a look on the first posting, I have to admit I was skimming the threads as at times, time itself..... is well..... you know LOL

-Ya can't fix stupid.......

Carl, That is great news.... he a modeler too or no? Wish him a happy happy from all of us here, modeler or not!

So while I was working on the engine, and working on the spare tire, I also got to thinking WELL I've got the frame near ready for the rear axle, so why not assemble and detail it as for when I am done with the frame, I'll have the rear ready to go right onto the suspension! SO, I did..... Now, as you all reading should know by now, I had been taking parts from a Donor frame, to make all this happen, this rear axle came from that donor frame! Thing is, even in good shape, it was still too narrow to fit right and look right, SO, I had to widen it just a bit 3/32ns per side to get the width right.... BUT the issue with that came along as I was not using the stock rims or wheel backs! Meaning, I had to make a lot of my own parts to have this all come together. The wheels in the tires and the wheel backs used left NO rear brake drums! I had to turn my own brake drums, to fit the application. Which you'll see better views of in just a bit. BUT adding all that, plus having the narrow axle issue, I had to fit the axle casing with a turned "addition" to get the width right so it went from 3/32nds inch to something to the tune of 5/64th inch to get it close.... SO, I turned one longer piece about 2 and 1/2 the needed length that way I had the same diameter addition for both sides! OR some for error..... Once I had all that assembled and ready to go, the detail adding was next! I took the rear, and added "L" angle brackets to hold the hard brake line plumbed on the rear axle, to these brackets on either side, drilled and then fitted with the pipe itself. Once glue was dry, I took and then fitted the ends of each with fittings, and ran into the rear of the brake drum housing. And then let alone to dry, for an hour or so, and once ready, slid the fittings to their proper locations in the line CA glued them, and let that to dry.... Once dry ALL got painted in-place. Brackets painted gloss black to match that one the rear axle. The lines painted steel, as per factory Mopar. And fittings painted brass, as per materials they're made from, and then from the brackets to the brake drum housing "rubber" for hoses...... That large "brass" fitting seen next to the rear axle "pumpkin" is the fitting that will have a hose running from it, to the little cross member bracket fitting on the frame that will have a hose going from one location to the other. You can reflect this detail on my truck in this build, both were the same but slightly different. NOT by a lot tho..... I think mine was on the other side of the pumpkin, but the frame bracket was in the same location..... Other side, same thing..... Over-all it looks really good! Detail is spot on to a real truck of the same type and everything is just...................... pleasing to date! I'm happy thus far with everything...... Then as you all know, I made my own belt system set up for this truck, last you seem there was no power steering pump on the belt cluster, that has been remedied..... I got to paint the "cap" to it flat black, and this whole detail assembly will be ready to go onto the engine! One step closer to getting the engine in the bay..... THEN I'll be able to begin running exhaust pipe! Thats it for now, more to come when progress happens! Enjoy!

So, on Fathers day, and a little bit yesterday, and more will come after tonight..... I did get some done, but could not "handle" for pictures and so, had to wait till I could..... Our very own "Stray" had posted pictures of his "spare" wheel on a build, and his persistence, on showing me what he had done, I simply did it on this build! I wasn't originally going to "open" the "slots" in the steel rim, BUT....... He persuaded me to do and do it just for looks sake! And with that here is how mine turned out! (THANKS for the inspiration Stray!) I took this: To this: With flash ---^ Without flash ---^ I think it came out GREAT! I like how it looks even tho when all said and done, and in-place on the truck it won't be easily seen! BUT, theres more..... Me, being well, ME, I took it a STEP further! The truck, has to have a spare tire mount, in the "stock" location under the rear portion of the bed..... SO, I took the frame, and began measuring to make one...... Right now, it doesn't appear to be much, BUT ohhh yeas it is! This "pole" is mounted to a resin frame, NOT glued, its machine screwed to the frame! This will hold it in definitely, BUT I plan to also "glue" it to keep it from rotating over time, WHY? WELL thats why I say its something "more"..... The Spare tire WILL BE REMOVABLE! Once all is done and the mount detail is all added to the pole itself, I plan to go back to where it screw mounts and totally fil in the head of the screw in the top side of the frame thats fitted by means of countersinking the screw and all and will be covered and buried in the frame itself, NEVER to be seen again! I have yet to paint this as I have some angle plates to add to it to date, so is left bare machined white styrene. Tire "in-place". just setting there for now! I have to make the cross bar that will have a screw that will thread down into the mount pole that will "pin" the rim with tire to the under side of the bed, AND look as tho it can be removed with a 1/25th scale hand! NOT a screw driver! I however do have a little detail to add to this and then after that it all will get painted. Exception to painting will be the underside of the cross bar that will hold the tire by means of pressure to the rim, I do NOT want the cross bar to have black paint get onto the white rim! SO, only 3 sides of that cross bar will be painted! More to follow, stay tuned!

Thanks Jose! More to follow...... I got more done then what I could post due to the nature of drying time and glue and painting so..... I had to wait to get pictures because of handling sake.....

42.....

What pleased me on Friday was able to get around from my surgery on Thursday and get some "bench" time on a NEW bench with my Unimat, and then to follow some bench time on the bench I build my models on......... Fathers day, working on my Dads truck in my "Father & Son" build, and getting a lot of little details, done to move onto bigger parts of the same truck...... Today, SEEING ALL OF THIS the past few days!

OMG, this is so wrong.............. SHE wants to "Drive"..... -AND, your gonna use a "Joy"stick........... Yer sick, in a twisted, funny, sort of way man! I LIKE IT!

Yeah, thats a fun looking "restore" back to LIFE project! I can't wait to see what ya will do to replace the front end of the thing! -Not sure on the 'Vette drive train tho...... -Me, being me, a MOPAR NUT!

I have to say, I have built HO scale trains PROFESSIONALLY for the past 20 years, Granted, plastic is a good structural material in model building BUT brass is superior! Heres why: One, time.............. TIME a lone will warp the plastic, set it in sunlight for a week, the weight from that plastic on plastic frame WILL warp in sunlight ALONE I've WATCHED it happen hundreds of times at friends that have a display case ACROSS a room from a "sunny" window...... Two, HEAT............ ROOM temperature can ALSO "warp" plastic...... three, Strength............ Plastic WILL give! Just like masonry, will crack, plastic WILL "give in" with age! Four, handling........... "Handled" long enough see how long it "survives"....... Brass however, UNLESS direct heat is APPLIED to the surface, is NOT affected by sunlight "heat" it must be directly in contact with the surface to detriment the metal itself OR soldered joints! Sorry Harry and the others but these BIG frames, on heavy bodies, plastic will fail, I'm sorry, I've watched it and REPAIRED for a living over the span of 20 years on what will happen under those conditions what happens to plastic. Brass will corrode, if not painted but as long as its painted those SAME "elements" will not effect brass and its structural strength..... Ask anyone building a G scale garden railroad if they'll use plastic for their "bridge work" I bet its NOT something they will even consider for the VERY SAME reasons. I'm NOT arguing, I'm merely stating facts on the 2 different types of construction medium here "Brass Vs plastic"

Well as I mentioned, Engine work was up next...... I had to add a oil dipstick to the 360 in this truck, which was a fun added part (I make them, myself, paint the "tube" install, into/through a left over wire loom and done...... The "chrome" loop is just in front of the valve cover, difficult to see, BUT you can see the shadow of the wire itself, on the engine block, just behind the fuel line! Very fine black line. I will attempt to get a better picture of this next time I snap pictures its such a small detail part! Then, what took the most "patients" was the engines pullet and belt set up..... What a task! I needed to incorporate the following: Water Pump Alternator Power Steering Air Conditioning Crank and a single tension pulley What FUN that was! I took a few "glue Bomb parts, broke factory belts, and removed them, chucked the pulley in the Unimat and left 'er rip.... Spinning the pulleys back "round" again, to wrap Evergreen Styrene around them (as belts) for strength, and then flattened the outer most pulley glue bomb, to use to over lay it onto the rear ones, and make it all fit and look the part..... I *THINK* I managed to get 'er done! Blue pulley to be the crank pullet, black one to be the water pump pulley, the very highest mounted one A/C Compressor pulley, silver to the left of the AC pulley is for the Alternator, and off to the right is power steering MID-mounted silver pulley a tensioner pulley. I'm NOT 100% sure how this was to all be under the hood of my Dads truck, BUT because his was "stock" and NOT trusting on-line sources as being 100% honest to the stock location, I set it up as best I knew how and look right..... Got to remember this truck is/was after all a 1979 model Dodge! A LOT can be changed over time so..... SO, I tend to go with what little I know added to the know-how on my own truck was, and thinking how it reflect on a slightly different truck a year newer..... I do think however, I pulled it off! -It really isn't a "detail" thats going to be fully 100% seen when all said and done ANYWAY, so only needs to "look" the part 100% top end! -Which, that I know is 110% accurate! Tedious little details done, MORE to come as I'm able! Enjoy!

Well guys, As you all know, I have been busy..... Before Fathers Day, as well as this past Thursday, a few know I was in the hospital for a day procedure that came out OK, I'm a bit sore, but to have a stent added to either leg is a bit of a task on the person having it done so. but anyway, I'm doing good and feeling "OK" just a little sore" but handling it pretty well..... As you all know (or so I thought I've mentioned) I lost my Dad a little over a year ago, now (was a year in March) SO with that, and have had thoughts of him on my mind with the builds a few of you of/from me, this Father & Son build was directed towards this whole thing, and Fathers Day, all I wanted to do was relax, (because I had too) and work on my Dads model in this build (because I could), in honors to him, and thats just what I did! This is one of those postings, to show a little of a lot of little parts, small details that will lead to much bigger sub-assemblies in the near future! So with that, I got to thinking how the rear axle needed to go together, and got to looking at where I left off on it. THEN before getting into that looked over the frame to see where I was on that (kind of "reflecting" past work), and where to "pick up" again, so-to-speak.... So, I took the frame, and thought,A LOT had to go onto my trucks frame in this build BEFORE the axle could be placed onto it, (I WAS NOT going to attempt working around a mounted rear axle!) Very "end" of the rear brake line. This is the "hard" line that goes to the mount seen mid-frame, to a fitting, that will run forward to the brake master cylinder lower manifold.... The hard pipe itself, has a fitting on it, that carries it through the little angle iron bracket on the frame cross members! This line was made formed and placed for the picture. I had been removed, painted and let dry before gluing in place! The fitting is now brass colored, and the line is steel colored, as these had steel brake lines! Just like my model trucks frame in this build, the brake line will follow the inside of the frame rails, in the corner of the frame, where it meets the floor boards, all the way to the front. My trucks frame was built this very same way! Only difference is Dads truck was 2 scale feet longer then mine! (He had a full size bed "Sweptline" so.... mine was Step-Side short box. As you can see, I went through drilled need mounting holes, and got the copper line ran to be in place, got it all fitted, and then, removed it all to paint: Which means, this step to getting the rear axle in place is complete! NOW, I got to get the engine in place, with all the exhaust pipes in place in order to get the axle onto the rear suspension! I got a ways to go! (Thats what I get for taking the time to remodel my shop!) BUT the things I have done in it to date, has been much easier, much more user friendly, and way more comfortable to do with it set up as I have it! -SO, that alone makes the time WELL worth the effort involved! -HOPEFULLY LESS "make shift" tables in the near future (Unless they're in MY WIFE'S side of the shop, then, I don't care!) LOL Engine work coming up next! ENJOY....

-Ray with my shop remodeling, I have something VERY similar to this planned, altho, mine not from plywood. (I've got scraps of Vinyl trim pieces that are 5-quarter thick and a few of them over 12 inches wide..... -NOT sure why so big, and dang near 4 feet long, them, used upside down, puts the molded-in "wood grain" on the bottom, but a NIICE smooth surface upward facing for making these disks you have done from it, and then drilled for 1/8th and 3/32nd holds for those size shanks and I plan to glue a tub of 2 inch diameter PVC down the center, ALSO having 3 maybe 4 tiers mounted together to all ride on a Lazy Susan bearing.... Only different materials as it what I got..... NOTHING I've bought! Saved "cut-offs" from where I used to work.... I just need to locate MORE of the lazy susan bearings, they are "MIA" local to me.....I salvaged a good one from a spinning rack I once had that the rack was rusted apart but the bearing was in decent shape! (Needed cleaned up a bit and a bit of oil added to it but in good shape over-all!) GREAT idea tho, all can be done from common house-hold materials!

It is sad. I have a LHS that I support whenever I can! MOST if not ALL of my paint comes from there when I need it. and they treat me like I'm king...... -WILL support ANY and all shops for whatever product when I can, its the "little guy" we have to support whenever we can! I do take a deal when I find it, else where BUT thats not to say the local guys, don't have to eat too!

Ray, thats a GREAT point! Specially the outter rows, being slightly canted outward to allow to grab them, and allow space for the center row. I'll be doing something similar to this just to hold "bits" for Dremels and drill bits of small diameter in my new work bench so...

HAPPY FATHERS DAY guys!!!!!! I'm missing mine needless to say but I'm having a pretty good one otherwise.... No Models or supplies as gifts, but stuff for another one of my hobbies... FISHING! A few lures I didn't have! Hope all the fathers out there are having a good one too!

LOL Dale..... Then yer sayin' they'red be EVEM MORE "hair" in the paint???????

NOW that gives the '70 Charger R/T justice! NIICE work!

GAWD, I'd LOVE to find a few of those oldie car yards..... The things I could salvage in there to preserve history......