taaron76

Hi Sean, just be patient. This was my first one too, but I did a lot of reading and lots of pic surfing. I'm having lots of fun with this one, stretching the boundaries a little. Thanks, and I'll be looking out for yours! Tim

Hi Tom, I figured you were busy. I've got another week vacation coming up on the 4th of July, so I'm trying to get as much in as possible. Can't wait to see more updates on your Nova's when you get some bench time. Tim

Thanks! It's good to be back.

Some more updates, here and there... slowly but surely. Finally got the trunk flocked and added the stock wheel that came with the Z-16 as a spare. Here is a shot of the wheels prior to shooting them with metallizer gun metal and then with some clear. ... and after.

After two weeks of vacation and a busy week, I figured three weeks was long enough to stay away from the '65. I got some more of the engine detailing done tonight, finally. I still have to run the vacuum lines, water lines and throttle cables, but there is always tomorrow. I had to make a bracket for the alternator since I used aftermarket pulleys, which was a little tricky. The hardest part was running the fuel lines to the Holley 750. I cut the fuel filter line a little short and had to do something a tad different, but I think it worked out ok. Loads more to do still... Tim

Joe - I think if you bought some round styrene that was about the diameter of the original driveshaft and cut it to length, cut the u-joints off of the old driveshaft and transplanted them on the new styrene driveshaft, you'd be set. I've been thinking of doing this with future builds when the molding lines are so bad that they are a pain to get out. You could even wrap it in BMF or shoot it with Alclad prior to gluing the u-joints. Just and idea that popped into mind. Tim

I'll use the smallest possible brush, or even use scale wires to detail it a little. Tim

Welcome back, Jim, and nice update! I'm itching to get back on mine '65 Chevelle, but vacation time is here. lol Looking forward to seeing some more updates!!! Tim

I tried Spaz Stix and didn't have any success... followed the directions to the T. Tim

A few rear suspension updated. I removed the lower control arms from the axle and mounted them with pins so that the suspension would travel. The front part of the lower control arms will be mounted to the frame with scale bolts and nuts, they just haven't arrived yet. Rear suspension is ready to be painted now. The upper control arms will be mounted and assembled the same way as the lower control arms. I also started running the fuel line... Tim Molded lower control arms. The control arms are pinned here to allow travel. Here are the rear suspension mocked up with pins, minus the upper control arms... and paint of course.

Put some overtime in getting the interior finished, minus the seat belts... waiting on parts to come it. I drilled the gauges out and glued styrene behind the holes to give the decals a nice flat surface. Borrowed this idea from Joe (mustang1989) when he was building his Charger. I also BMF's the pedals. Of course it wouldn't be right without a functional glove box, right? I wanted to add some more color to the interior, so I decided on black in a few places here and there.

Tim - take a look at this thread. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=102161#entry1429938 Tim

I matched the flocking material to flat paint and put it on kind of heavy and then flocked it. Seemed to work out ok... I did a trial run with glue on a piece of cardboard and I didn't like it, so gave the paint option a try. Tim

Jim - no problem at all, and I know you are pretty busy. I tested a few types of glue and couldn't get them to work the way I wanted them to, so I just sprayed the area with paint from the airbrush and flocked it, let it dry and dusted it off. Seemed to work ok, just not sure if I like the color of the seats which is why I might go lighter or darker... not sure yet. Tim

Finally got around to starting on the interior. The plan was a two-tone gray and to finally give flocking a shot. Overall, I think it came out pretty good and is fairly easy to use. I picked up a couple of things that will help me on my next one. The only thing I might change is the color of the seats. I might either paint them black, or a light gray than what they are. I still have loads of detailing to do like the door panels and the second half of the dash, but heres where I'm at so far. Tim

I've got two really close to me in the Fairfax/Chantilly area. Piper Hobby and Hobby Hangar. I also go to Hobby Lobby is Leesburg. Tim

Joe - You can still use Tamiya acrylic clear over Model Master enamel, if you choose to. Same concept for finishing would apply. That's my only beef with Tamiya is that their color selection is limited. I used MM enamel (Metallic Black) on the '65 Chevelle, but will use Tamiya acrylic clear over the top of it. For some reason, Tamiya acrylic clear just flows so good when thinned with denatured alcohol... so good that I've intentionally tried to make the paint run and it wouldn't do it. I swear by it! lol Tim

One coat is all I've ever used and it is fine. I've sprayed acrylic and lacquer over them as well with no issues. I bought my bottle of Maskol from my local hobby shop for about $7.00, so if you can't find any, let me know and I will pick up a bottle and send it to you. I see you are in Virginia and I'm in D.C., so we aren't too far from each other. Tim Here is a seller... cheap, too. http://www.megahobby.com/maskolrubbermaskingliquid28mlbottle.aspx Tim

Tamiya? Acrylic? What color is it? Tim

Maskol is about the same. It can be cut as well. Tim

I posted this in the build section with my current build, but figured I'd share in case people wanted to give it a shot. I've been using Maskol by Humbrol instead of taping up areas that might be sensitive to paint that hasn't cured all the way. I primed the engine pieces yesterday, painted them and assembled them today. Maskol really creates a great tape line without worrying about pulling up any of the paint. Here a few pics to show you what it looks like. Engine primed and the transmissions covered in Maskol with a paint brush. It takes about 10-15 minutes to dry: This is what it looks like after two coats of Chevy engine red acrylic. I peeled off the Maskol about 10 minutes after it was painted. Acrylics dry to the touch pretty fast, so that helps, but it peels off really easy and won't permanently stick : Maskol peeled off: After letting the Chevy engine red dry for another ten minutes or so (20 minutes total), I painted Maskol on the entire motor, except the transmission and painted it with Model Master Metalizer aluminum and sealer, then let it dry for 10 minutes or so and then peeled the Maskol off: A couple more pics of the separation lines using Maskol: Anyhow, if you hate trying to mask off the engine and transmission, or other similar parts while painting them, Maskol is very easy to use and very effective at creating a very nice and clean line. Tim

Thanks fellas! I'm trying to get in what I can in the next few days... I will be out of pocket for two weeks with no modeling during that time. Is there a phone number you can call to get help? lol Oh well... lots of time to plan more I guess. Tim

If your wife knows how to drive the motorhome, you are set. Car modeling on the go. lol Of course you will need a steady hand. Ha! Tim

And here is the motor update pics for the day... I didn't use the box valve covers since the ones off of a '71 Chevelle were more like the stock'65 Chevelle valve coves. It already has the holes for the two vacuum or breather lines. Lots of work left to do on the engine, but I'm at a work stoppage until the parts I ordered get here. Tim

Finally got started on the engine today and got a few thing done. I'm still waiting on a couple of parts I ordered to come in. Pulleys, carb, oil filter and a few other things for the engine. Got some paint work done today and started some of the assembly. I've been using Maskol by Humbrol instead of taping up areas that might be sensitive to paint that hasn't cured all the way. I primed the engine pieces yesterday, painted them and assembled them today. Maskol really creates a great tape line without worrying about pulling up any of the paint. Here a few pics to show you what it looks like. Engine primed and the transmissions covered in Maskol with a paint brush. It takes about 10-15 minutes to dry: This is what it looks like after two coats of Chevy engine red acrylic. I peeled off the Maskol about 10 minutes after it was painted. Acrylics dry to the touch pretty fast, so that helps, but it peels off really easy and won't permanently stick : Maskol peeled off: After letting the Chevy engine red dry for another ten minutes or so (20 minutes total), I painted Maskol on the entire motor, except the transmission and painted it with Model Master Metalizer aluminum and sealer, then let it dry for 10 minutes or so and then peeled the Maskol off: A couple more pics of the separation lines using Maskol: Anyhow, if you hate trying to mask off the engine and transmission, or other similar parts while painting them, Maskol is very easy to use and very effective at creating a very nice and clean line. Tim