SfanGoch

A light coat or two sprayed on is sufficient to cover, seal and prevent the older decals from disintegrating. You don't want to apply a heavy coat of either clear acrylic spray or Microscale Decal Film. You'll only end up with thick decals which would be noticeable after application onto the model surface.

Another method is to scan and print a copy of the older decals onto a new sheet of clear decal paper, just in case. If the decals don't contain white in the design, you're good to go. Otherwise, you'll have clear carrier film where the white would normally be. That wouldn't be a problem if the surface to which it's to be applied is white, though.

I have a giant collection of 40+ year old Microscale decal sheets, 30 y.o. Super Scale sheets and piles of old car kit sheets. I store all of them in gallon-sized Zip-Lock bags. Aside from a couple few decal sets for assorted Hawk kits, I haven't experienced any yellowing or other physical deterioration. One method to get rid of the yellowing is to tape the affected decal sheet onto a window which faces sunlight. Leave it exposed to the sunlight for a couple of days and the yellowing will be bleached away by UV radiation. It only affects the clear parts of the film and the solid colors remain, well, remain colorfully solid. This was something I picked up years ago in a hobby mag and, strange as it seems, it works. Like Nick suggested, spray some light coats of clear coat (Krylon Clear Acrylic works well) or get some Microscale Liquid Decal Film. It brushes on and preserves old decals. Using either will require you to cut the decals off and trim the excess film around each individually, though. Small price to pay if you really need them.

The tires/wheels are 2 piece styrene split down the centerline. You can check out the instructions: TERACRUZER WITH MACE MISSILE This would look nice parked next to the Atomic Cannon.

Well, aren't all of AMT's automotive kit line, excluding more contemporary vehicles, produced from comparatively "old" toolings? Aren't all of the reissues which haven't, until their recent resurrections, seen light of day for "x" number of years produced from "old" toolings? Your honor, the answer to both of those questions is an absolute, unequivocal, indisputable "YES!" Cynical? Not at this moment. More like sarcastic. Yes, that's right. "Executive Lounge". Also known as the men's room. Why, I'm willing to bet that even RC 2 had johns with indoor plumbing located in the plant. With ashtrays next to the wash basins yet.

I understand that R2's, and other manufacturers', business is producing model kits and other hobby items. I also feel that redesigning packaging for the umpteenth time for items that are re-released on what seems like a regular rotation is a waste of resources. That's my opinion. We already know what the '58 Impala looks like, what parts will be in the box, etc. Do we really need another box with different graphics to sell the same kit? There are what, something like ten box designs for the 1957 Ford? Redirect the resources toward getting tooling inventoried, inspected and, if feasible, repaired. Personally, I'm not the the type of model kit buyer who sits on the edge of my seat waiting for the next new and exciting box art for a nineteen-fixty-eleventy-four Formerchrycheviac Bulgemobile Most Excellent Classic Supreme Hardtvertible Broughdan which has been recycled seventy six times before. It's still the same old kit I bought before and I'd buy again; so, I'm okay with any of the older box designs. Re the Meyers Manx, how do you know if they didn't, in fact, trip over the tooling when they walked in? For all you know, that's exactly how they came across it. It could've been used as a doorstop by the previous owners. Or, quite possibly, as an ashtray in the Executive Lounge.

If, by choices, you mean the sidebar comments, alright then. i didn't bother checking back to the original post.

There really isn't a tactful way to do it. You're gonna look like a piker no matter how you go about it.

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Color Version? I hate when "they" do that to pseudo-classics. Is AMT-978 the original B&W version?

Obviously, if the program was cancelled and not reinstituted, it wasn't a priority at any level back then and still isn't. I'd be hard pressed to think of something that would be more important, though. There must be another magical revenue generating angle to model kit production which we aren't privy to.

No release of this kit had the option of a wire front axle. You can check out four sets of instructions covering as many releases and they only show poseable steering

Thanks for posting the link, Brett. That answers my question.

Thanks for the explanation, Casey. I understand that R2 won't tip its hand until it's feasible to announce any reissues/releases. I should have been more specific. What I meant to write was "early '60s - mid'70s" kits. I meant 1962/63 Chevy II Nova hardtops and wagons, Buick Specials, Tempests and other like kits from the same period. I could be wrong; but, I don't believe that any of those particular molds were retooled or altered after their initial releases. I'm not a fan of custom cars and prefer to build factory stock vehicles, which is why I'd be interested in seeing reissued bone stock kits from that era.

Just a thought: Does R2 have the molds/toolings for all or most of the original AMT releases? If it does, why not reissue the so called "holy grail" kits? I'm referring to early-mid 70s GMs and Fords; and, I'm sure you guys know which ones you'd want and I believe they would sell well. I know I'd like to see Invictas, Chevy IIs, Skylarks, Bonnies and Tempests on my workbench without shelling out insane bucks. Or, would doing so provoke the hoarders, collectors and rare kit sellers into storming my house with torches and pitchforks for even thinking about that?

The age of a kit really isn't an issue. I've got a pile of Hawk kits which are older than me and they build up just dandy. The key word is "kit". I buy kits on evilBay. What I won't buy are ancient, painted built-up models. The chemicals in strippers and other products used by us to remove old paint can and do react adversely with plastics, both new and more so with old, to some extent. The quality of styrene also comes into play here. I don't like the idea of paying 10-40 bucks for a crapped out, badly painted glue bomb that might break apart in the wrong places after treatment in a solvent. If I really need a part(s) for a specific kit, I'd rather buy a complete, unbuilt duplicate kit and cast the required piece(s). But, that's me. Your mileage may vary.

So was mine, an AMT 1970 Dodge Coronet Super Bee. A FUBAR'ed paint job by moi. I never buy built-up models. i have my own problems. Why would I pay for someone else's? For those questioning the veracity of brittle plastic stories, I submit for your perusal the following: Problem Plastics Checklist

I believe it. I've experienced the "brittle plastic" syndrome too. I soaked a new, painted body in Polly S "ELO paint stripper for about an hour. After scrubbing off the loose paint and rinsing the body off, I noticed that the body was covered with a flat white haze and small, spiderweb-like lines in the plastic. Like a dope, I decided to flex the lower part of the door section and it cracked off right along one of those spiderweb lines. The ELO must have reacted with the styrene, causing it to become brittle.

Troll, huh?!? Are you serious?!? How is posting an image which is relevant to the comment I made trolling? My comments were in the same vein as other humorous replies. That means everyone, including the OP, who posted a humorous, off-topic reply in that thread is guilty of being a troll, right? Did any of my "stupid" images sow discord, start an argument, upset anyone besides you or were in any way inflammatory? They were intended to add a visual reference to what I mentioned in those particular replies. But, you know what? Your site. Your rules. Zei gezunt.

My "stupid images/photos/cartoons" did. Gregg, I'm not trying to get antagonistic or combative with you; at the same time, I'm not going to walk on eggshells just because you're the guy who pulls the strings here. So, in the spirit of a friendly discussion, allow me to ask this question: Are you telling or asking me this because I violated any specific Rule of Conduct; or, is it because "stupid images/photos/cartoons" bother you? Your description is a personal, subjective opinion and doesn't necessarily reflect those of everyone else on this site. These "stupid images/photos/cartoons" don't seem to elicit negative reactions from anyone else here. I know it isn't the former because I did read the RoC; and, there's nothing which pertains to what you refer to as "stupid images/photos/cartoons". As a matter of fact, here's what you yourself wrote in "General Rules of Conduct": I believe I observe all of the above, in various combinations, whenever I post a comment. I always keep it clean, I'm always courteous, my spelling and grammar are impeccable and lastly, I do try to have fun. As previously stated, I see nothing written, or implied in any form or manner, which prohibits, proscribes or otherwise forbids the inclusion of "stupid images/photos/cartoons" within a comment. Therefore, it must be the latter. If this is the case, you are allowing your personal likes/dislikes supersede your own General Rules of Conduct and you are not following the spirit of your own rules which you expect others to abide by. With all due respect to you, as an individual and in your position as Root Admin, if I haven't violated any of this forum's RoC, which were written by you, there was no good reason to delete my post(s). What you personally like, or don't, shouldn't be a factor. I offended no one; nor, did I violate any of your site rules.

Why is there a small hole on the top of spray-can lids?

Nothing doing, man. It's things like this which lighten the load on the neural synapses and make the day more enjoyable.

It has been hypothesized by intellects greater than mine that this is directly related to the "second gunman on the grassy knoll" theory through a very unspecific, indirect and vaguely indeterminate set of non-coincidental and unconnected events.

This is worthy of discussion equal to, and even surpassing, the mystery of why suits are packed in garment bags and garments in suitcases. I'm sure Leonard Nimoy would've found the answer to this perplexing anomaly if only "In Search Of.."was renewed for one more stinkin' season.

Go to six different dealers and get six different prices for a part. Twenty bucks for a clip...............if I knowed ya many years ago, I woulda sent ya ovah t'see Moose at Grand Auto Parts in Ridgewood, NY. He woulda let ya have it for the trouble of takin' it off the car yourself because he was that kind of guy. Actually. all of the junk yards i did business with were good like that for small parts. I bought an extremely low mileage (10,459 miles. The '89 Taurus SHO it was pulled out of was totaled) 3.0 L SHO V6 and MTX-IV tranny combo for $875. Yup, Moose was my go-to guy for all of my Robocopmobile needs. That is, until the day I called the place and some strange voice was at the other end of the line. I asked to speak with Moose. He said "Moose isn't here." When will he be back? "Probably in 7 to 25." Who're you?!? "Special Agent Blah Blah, FBI. I'm afraid I didn't catch your name." That's right, you didn't. CLICK! Too bad. That Moose was a swell guy to do business with.