SfanGoch

You can also try white cider vinegar. The main ingredient in most decal softeners is acetic acid.

Some decals are extremely thick. If you have no choice but to use them, place a fairly large amount of Micro-Sol on the decal. After about ten or so minutes, take a Q-Tip dampened with Micro-Sol and carefully roll it across the decal to force it to conform. In the case of instrument gauges, use the tip to push the decal down. You can also use a 00 brush to accomplish this. Everything I suggested here and elsewhere has been personally tested out and regularly used during my builds. I don't blow smoke up anyone's patootie.

Soak the decals with Microscale Micro-Sol. It will soften "set" decals and allow them to conform. It just takes a bit longer than if they were freshly appliied.

Agree about the twist drills. I also use them if I need a hole as large as 1/4". I meant isopropyl alcohol. Using India Pale Ale to clean a model is a capital offense in most of the U.S. and its territories. I'm not sure about the U.S. Virgin Islands, though. They consider overproof rum a breakfast drink.

You can support the curvature of the plastic glass by placing modeling clay underneath the part and packing it to completely fill the area. Hopefully, you'll use a pin vise so there won't be any heat generated and there won't be much force applied when drilling. Once you're finished, gently remove the clay and clean up with some 91% IPA.

I keep a plasma cutter handy for those extra thick sprue connections usually found on old kits of Eastern European origin that regular snips can't handle.

Tell her to go buy some shoes, a bottle of Bond No. 9 or a designer bag. That way, she'll be an accomplice in "wasting" money and she can't complain about some crummy airbrush and compressor. Works for me.

So, what's the holdup, maaaaaaaaan? Check out TCP Global . In addition to other absotively neat stuff, they carry beaucoup airbrush models and accessories at really good prices.

There's no need to get actual yellow zinc chromate primer. you can get Model Master Acryl 4851 - ANA 627 Yellow Zinc Chromate. You can also use Vallejo Model Color 70923 Japan Uniform WWII and Humbrol 81 Matt Pale Yellow are good too.

I've noticed that "drill" has been used. If you mean using a power tool, like a Dremel, therein lies the problem. That's plain overkill and you're asking for trouble, especially with clear styrene..Use a pin vise. You won't have to worry about excessive bit speeds melting or cracking the clear plastic. You also won't have to be concerned about the bit jumping, either. You have complete control of bit speed and making sure the bit stays where it's supposed to stay. Use the needle on a compass to mark the center of the hole to be drilled and the bit won't skip. I've hand-drilled through .8mm acrylic sheet and various thicknesses of clear styrene and acetate with no cracks, no melting, no burrs.

LACFD equipment is painted reddish orange. Testors Italian Red is a good match. The LA City Fire Department paints its apparatuses in......what else.....fire engine red.

Hey, we don't see bonus parts anymore; but, we do get free whoopee cushions.

If you check out the box to the left of the bike, AMT lists not only the kits containing the Triumph parts, but also the kits containing the Go-Kart parts. They're all '62 model years. It'd be nice if Round 2 re-released these eleven kits if they still have all of the molds. Then, you'd really hear the collective moans from the guys who forked over three Franklins for one of the originals.

Here you go, Ed. I could only find four out of five. S-122: S-522: S-622: S-922: Sorry about S-722. The instruction sheet isn't posted at Drastic Plastic, I don't have a copy and I couldn't locate one online. Perhaps somebody here can fill that order.

Aside from the '62 T-Bird kit, these are the other Styline kits I found with the bonus Triumph motorcycle parts: 1962 Ford Galaxie Hardtop S-122 1962 Buick Electra S-522 1962 Pontiac Hardtop S-622 1962 Chevrolet Impala Hardtop S-722 1962 Corvette Hardtop #S-922 S-722 contains the elusive frame.

There's an old, rundown candy store near my kid's school and this kit was sitting on a shelf with a few other car and plane models in decrepit, waterlogged boxes. They were all marked with equally ancient $2 price tags. I should have grabbed them when I had the chance. When I stopped by a few days later, they were all gone. The next time I saw this kit, it was in a "vintage" (read hipster-operated junk emporium) shop a couple blocks away for $75. I'll pass.

We only got 2 cents for soda bottles in the '60s. Fishing for change through subway gratings using a small padlock with a little Vaseline or Bazooka gum on the bottom was our racket. Best spots were at bus stops and grates near bars. We fished enough money to keep us in models, Spaldeens, candy and tops indefinitely. .

Well, around Jefferson Park, Zywiec, with spirytus rektyfikowany chasers. Na zdrowie. Hic. Time to go light a candle at the Lucas Duda shrine.

The movie is definitely fantasy. On the other hand....the Cubs winning the World Series.......a bizarre delusional disorder experienced every April since 1909 by the denizens of the Second City. A ten game losing streak followed a couple cases of Zywiec beer snaps them back into reality. * * I'm not a psychiatrist. I only portray one online and when appearing as an expert witness in Small Claims Court.

Looks good to me. Great job on this one, Randy. Now, I gotta grab me one of these.

Yeah, you can use Monokote instead of tissue since it already has a heat activated adhesive on one side. Instead of doping the tissue, you can spray Krylon Clear Acrylic, as I mentioned previously. Some guys use a 50-50 mixture of white glue and water, which is brushed over the tissue in order to stiffen it.

Expert craftsmanship never gets old. Fussee movements can still be found in some of the most expensive mechanical watches. There are train modelers who use fussee chains to operate various mechanisms in their layouts. Top Studio makes what is essentially PE fussee chain for detailing motorcycles. Unfortunately, it's 1/12 scale and reeeeeaaaaalllllly expensive.

Fussee chain is made from spring steel; so, it can be chemically blued. The fussee chain to the immediate right of the match head is .25mm thick and .63mm tall. That is just about 1/25 scale for a bike chain.

Although balsa frame and tissue, Guillow's makes some really nice kits. The B-17 is humongous! Instead of doping the tissue, you can spray a couple fine mist coats of Krylon Clear Acrylic to seal the pores and stiffen the tissue.