SfanGoch

Excellent solution and best technique yet, Steve. I'm going to try it with Magic-Sculp since I have a lifetime supply.

I have TSM 00906, the Henschel turret production version with clear upper hull and turret options. It's great that Trumpeter released a 1/16 kit. That said, this kit is a pig in terms of interior accuracy. Trumpeter skimped on the research and it shows. A lot of work is required to get this cat into shape. There is a resource page which is dedicated to this kit: TRUMPETER TIGER 2 :: A BUILD & INFO RESOURCE! The soon to be released Jagdtiger will not be much better. Aside from an elongated lower hull, Trumpeter never bothered correcting any of the previous errors found in the KT.

I'll ask my old friend Augie. He works at the George Motchan Detention Center. I don't believe the guests are allowed to use X-Acto knives, files or sprue cutters. :)

You might as well suggest a trip to Riker's Island, fer chrissakes! There's not much difference between the two. Well, there is. You get green baloney sammiches and blue Kool-Aid at Riker's.

The only real hobby shop left in Manhattan is Jan's Hobby Shop. It's located at 1435 Lexington Avenue, between E.93rd and E.94th Streets. That said, let me inform you that the car kit selection is pretty sparse and the place is really expensive. The kits run for 30%+ over retail price. If your friend wouldn't mind taking the subway, he can go to Modelcars.com (that's the actual name of the place). You can also check it out online using that name. It is located at 38-01 23rd Avenue, Suite 407, in the neighborhood called Astoria. He can take the N or W train to the Ditmars Boulevard station, then head east to 38th Street. Take a right (going north) at 38th St. and the store is located on the corner of 38th St. and 23rd Avenue on the fourth floor. It is open Monday-Friday 10 A.M.-6 P.M. They carry a large selection of kits and the prices are pretty darned good. He might be lucky and find some great closeout deals.

Wrinkling is a normal occurrence when using decal softener. The decal will flatten out when it dries. Using a blow dryer in order to speed up the process could damage the decal and soften the paint. The model ain't going anywhere. Let the decal dry on its own through evaporation. Exercising some patience can prevent a lot of potential agita and grief.

If anyone runs into Jim peddling his goods at any upcoming shows, that'll tell you a lot about his credibility and integrity.

Hmmm....reminds me of a Crashmobile.

I once finished a balsa midget racer. It ended up as a test bed for bottle rocket propulsion.

Tell Schwarber to get off the meal card. He looks like Bartolo Colon playing Left Field.

De nargas, man. Scalemates is great for its kit and AM database. One could look up virtually any kit or modeling product in existence. Almost.

If you want to keep track online, there's My Hobby Info and Scalemate's Stash Manager. No spreadsheets or thinking required. My kinda way to do things.

At 11:09 P.M. tonight, Cubs fans are going to tie up the suicide prevention hotline. Let's Go Next stop, Kansas City!

What's the 0-60 time? I hear those Lego V8's aren't anything to write home about.

This "I haven't been well lately" business from various AM dudes is getting stale. As Doug pointed out, it's no excuse. If Jim's, or anyone else's health isn't the best anymore, don't accept payment for s*** you obviously have no intention of producing or delivering. That isn't extortion. That's known as stealing. Send the goods or refund the money. It's that simple. Nothing personal; it's just business.

Read Jeremy's last post. he did contact him. Same result.

There is absolutely no excuse for his acting like a first class stronzo. The burden of proof is on his shoulders. He needs to provide verification that he actually shipped the merchandise. Any shipment of that value would be insured, sent by registered mail and should have a tracking number provided. If it was sent registered, a signature is required upon receipt and that is proof of delivery. If he can't provide that and/or a tracking number, he's blowing smoke and is just plain old ripping you off. Everything I've ever ordered from outside the U.S. is shipped in that manner. It shouldn't be any different for items shipped from here to another country. He might believe that since you are in Canada, you probably won't pursue the matter further. Take up the matter with USPS. Just my 2cents, you might want to tail him to any other modeling sites and bust his chops for being a deadbeat. Sometimes, civility isn't the answer. Embarrass him into coming clean and rectifying his transgression. That, and the possible loss of future business because people reading your comments will feel that he's not worth risking the loss of their money, might cause him to have an epiphany and realize he screwed up royally.

Claiming that additional money is owed on a previously completed purchase can be called a few choice words; although, extortion isn't one of them. Do you have a copy of the order form submitted to make the order? Did you receive an email order confirmation from Micro Nitro which has the total due for the purchase? Since you do have a Paypal statement that indicates that you made a payment reflecting the price in any email confirmation from and to Micro Nitro and, I'm assuming, a credit card statement which would show that the same amount was charged, that is proof that you paid in full. If he claims that you didn't pay the full amount due and you owe X dollars, he's attempting to shake you down. You paid an agreed amount of money for goods at final prices which were current at the time of your order. He can't charge you more for those items after the fact by possibly claiming increased costs. That isn't your problem. By paying him and his accepting the payment, you have a legally binding contract which he is obliged to fulfill. If you get no satisfaction, contact USPS Postal Inspection Service and file a mail fraud complaint.

You can also try white cider vinegar. The main ingredient in most decal softeners is acetic acid.

Some decals are extremely thick. If you have no choice but to use them, place a fairly large amount of Micro-Sol on the decal. After about ten or so minutes, take a Q-Tip dampened with Micro-Sol and carefully roll it across the decal to force it to conform. In the case of instrument gauges, use the tip to push the decal down. You can also use a 00 brush to accomplish this. Everything I suggested here and elsewhere has been personally tested out and regularly used during my builds. I don't blow smoke up anyone's patootie.

Soak the decals with Microscale Micro-Sol. It will soften "set" decals and allow them to conform. It just takes a bit longer than if they were freshly appliied.

Agree about the twist drills. I also use them if I need a hole as large as 1/4". I meant isopropyl alcohol. Using India Pale Ale to clean a model is a capital offense in most of the U.S. and its territories. I'm not sure about the U.S. Virgin Islands, though. They consider overproof rum a breakfast drink.

You can support the curvature of the plastic glass by placing modeling clay underneath the part and packing it to completely fill the area. Hopefully, you'll use a pin vise so there won't be any heat generated and there won't be much force applied when drilling. Once you're finished, gently remove the clay and clean up with some 91% IPA.

I keep a plasma cutter handy for those extra thick sprue connections usually found on old kits of Eastern European origin that regular snips can't handle.

Tell her to go buy some shoes, a bottle of Bond No. 9 or a designer bag. That way, she'll be an accomplice in "wasting" money and she can't complain about some crummy airbrush and compressor. Works for me.