SfanGoch

Tell Schwarber to get off the meal card. He looks like Bartolo Colon playing Left Field.

De nargas, man. Scalemates is great for its kit and AM database. One could look up virtually any kit or modeling product in existence. Almost.

If you want to keep track online, there's My Hobby Info and Scalemate's Stash Manager. No spreadsheets or thinking required. My kinda way to do things.

At 11:09 P.M. tonight, Cubs fans are going to tie up the suicide prevention hotline. Let's Go Next stop, Kansas City!

What's the 0-60 time? I hear those Lego V8's aren't anything to write home about.

This "I haven't been well lately" business from various AM dudes is getting stale. As Doug pointed out, it's no excuse. If Jim's, or anyone else's health isn't the best anymore, don't accept payment for s*** you obviously have no intention of producing or delivering. That isn't extortion. That's known as stealing. Send the goods or refund the money. It's that simple. Nothing personal; it's just business.

Read Jeremy's last post. he did contact him. Same result.

There is absolutely no excuse for his acting like a first class stronzo. The burden of proof is on his shoulders. He needs to provide verification that he actually shipped the merchandise. Any shipment of that value would be insured, sent by registered mail and should have a tracking number provided. If it was sent registered, a signature is required upon receipt and that is proof of delivery. If he can't provide that and/or a tracking number, he's blowing smoke and is just plain old ripping you off. Everything I've ever ordered from outside the U.S. is shipped in that manner. It shouldn't be any different for items shipped from here to another country. He might believe that since you are in Canada, you probably won't pursue the matter further. Take up the matter with USPS. Just my 2cents, you might want to tail him to any other modeling sites and bust his chops for being a deadbeat. Sometimes, civility isn't the answer. Embarrass him into coming clean and rectifying his transgression. That, and the possible loss of future business because people reading your comments will feel that he's not worth risking the loss of their money, might cause him to have an epiphany and realize he screwed up royally.

Claiming that additional money is owed on a previously completed purchase can be called a few choice words; although, extortion isn't one of them. Do you have a copy of the order form submitted to make the order? Did you receive an email order confirmation from Micro Nitro which has the total due for the purchase? Since you do have a Paypal statement that indicates that you made a payment reflecting the price in any email confirmation from and to Micro Nitro and, I'm assuming, a credit card statement which would show that the same amount was charged, that is proof that you paid in full. If he claims that you didn't pay the full amount due and you owe X dollars, he's attempting to shake you down. You paid an agreed amount of money for goods at final prices which were current at the time of your order. He can't charge you more for those items after the fact by possibly claiming increased costs. That isn't your problem. By paying him and his accepting the payment, you have a legally binding contract which he is obliged to fulfill. If you get no satisfaction, contact USPS Postal Inspection Service and file a mail fraud complaint.

You can also try white cider vinegar. The main ingredient in most decal softeners is acetic acid.

Some decals are extremely thick. If you have no choice but to use them, place a fairly large amount of Micro-Sol on the decal. After about ten or so minutes, take a Q-Tip dampened with Micro-Sol and carefully roll it across the decal to force it to conform. In the case of instrument gauges, use the tip to push the decal down. You can also use a 00 brush to accomplish this. Everything I suggested here and elsewhere has been personally tested out and regularly used during my builds. I don't blow smoke up anyone's patootie.

Soak the decals with Microscale Micro-Sol. It will soften "set" decals and allow them to conform. It just takes a bit longer than if they were freshly appliied.

Agree about the twist drills. I also use them if I need a hole as large as 1/4". I meant isopropyl alcohol. Using India Pale Ale to clean a model is a capital offense in most of the U.S. and its territories. I'm not sure about the U.S. Virgin Islands, though. They consider overproof rum a breakfast drink.

You can support the curvature of the plastic glass by placing modeling clay underneath the part and packing it to completely fill the area. Hopefully, you'll use a pin vise so there won't be any heat generated and there won't be much force applied when drilling. Once you're finished, gently remove the clay and clean up with some 91% IPA.

I keep a plasma cutter handy for those extra thick sprue connections usually found on old kits of Eastern European origin that regular snips can't handle.

Tell her to go buy some shoes, a bottle of Bond No. 9 or a designer bag. That way, she'll be an accomplice in "wasting" money and she can't complain about some crummy airbrush and compressor. Works for me.

So, what's the holdup, maaaaaaaaan? Check out TCP Global . In addition to other absotively neat stuff, they carry beaucoup airbrush models and accessories at really good prices.

There's no need to get actual yellow zinc chromate primer. you can get Model Master Acryl 4851 - ANA 627 Yellow Zinc Chromate. You can also use Vallejo Model Color 70923 Japan Uniform WWII and Humbrol 81 Matt Pale Yellow are good too.

I've noticed that "drill" has been used. If you mean using a power tool, like a Dremel, therein lies the problem. That's plain overkill and you're asking for trouble, especially with clear styrene..Use a pin vise. You won't have to worry about excessive bit speeds melting or cracking the clear plastic. You also won't have to be concerned about the bit jumping, either. You have complete control of bit speed and making sure the bit stays where it's supposed to stay. Use the needle on a compass to mark the center of the hole to be drilled and the bit won't skip. I've hand-drilled through .8mm acrylic sheet and various thicknesses of clear styrene and acetate with no cracks, no melting, no burrs.

LACFD equipment is painted reddish orange. Testors Italian Red is a good match. The LA City Fire Department paints its apparatuses in......what else.....fire engine red.

Hey, we don't see bonus parts anymore; but, we do get free whoopee cushions.

If you check out the box to the left of the bike, AMT lists not only the kits containing the Triumph parts, but also the kits containing the Go-Kart parts. They're all '62 model years. It'd be nice if Round 2 re-released these eleven kits if they still have all of the molds. Then, you'd really hear the collective moans from the guys who forked over three Franklins for one of the originals.

Here you go, Ed. I could only find four out of five. S-122: S-522: S-622: S-922: Sorry about S-722. The instruction sheet isn't posted at Drastic Plastic, I don't have a copy and I couldn't locate one online. Perhaps somebody here can fill that order.

Aside from the '62 T-Bird kit, these are the other Styline kits I found with the bonus Triumph motorcycle parts: 1962 Ford Galaxie Hardtop S-122 1962 Buick Electra S-522 1962 Pontiac Hardtop S-622 1962 Chevrolet Impala Hardtop S-722 1962 Corvette Hardtop #S-922 S-722 contains the elusive frame.

There's an old, rundown candy store near my kid's school and this kit was sitting on a shelf with a few other car and plane models in decrepit, waterlogged boxes. They were all marked with equally ancient $2 price tags. I should have grabbed them when I had the chance. When I stopped by a few days later, they were all gone. The next time I saw this kit, it was in a "vintage" (read hipster-operated junk emporium) shop a couple blocks away for $75. I'll pass.