SfanGoch

It's usually that way. The writers run out of ideas. New writers are brought in and they recycle old storylines. I'm a big Merrie Melodies/Loonie Tunes fan. You can see the dropoff in story quality in the cartoons produced after 1955. They were unwatchable after 1962. The best Popeye cartoons were the early Fleischer Studios shorts. That they were B/W, they had a quirky, surreal feel to them. Being a born and bred New York City rat, I appreciated the seedy waterfront images in some of those early ones. The later A.A.P., Paramount (the guys who brought you Baby Huey, Herman the Mouse and, ugh, Casper) and King Features Syndicate TV cartoons were baaaaaaad.

Tempera paints are a better choice than Micro-Mark. The Humbrol acrylics are just as good as the enamels. You're going to like working with them.

Definitely outstanding kits. The detail was unreal especially for the scale and price back then. Revellogram seriously needs to consider reissuing them. Both kits can still be had for $20-30 on evilBay.

A true connoisseur of comedy, you are. I doff me dicer to anyone what quotes Groucho Marx. Jus', not right now. Some goriller poured molasses inta it when I wuzzint lookin' it an' it's stuck but good on me nut.

You got that right! What kid would prefer intelligent, parlor room humor over Moe ripping a couple handfuls of Larry Fine's hair out of his head? Not me, brudda. Gimme some pliers and stick your tongue out, porcupine! Rocky & Bullwinkle were something else, funny in a way that made you think because of all the pop culture/current events references. I can't explain why ( I can; but, that's another topic best left for another time ); but, it seems that we kids (in the early-mid 1960s) were pretty savvy when it came to "getting" the inside jokes and pop culture references in those and other cartoons like Mr. Magoo and Loonie Tunes (especially the Bob Clampett- directed episodes). Maybe, it's because we read more, especially newspapers, and watched movies more often (no all cartoon channels back then) than kids do today ( that is, within the last 30 or so years).

Nuance.....Say......that's de woid what some guy in anudder tread used. The Three Stooges were a staple of after school television in NYC for years. Officer Joe Bolton hosted the 3 Stooges Fun House. Rocky & Bullwinkle were also favorites. Both were on WPIX Channel 11. The Stooges were taken off the air after parents' groups complained about the violence. Whatsamatta, your knucklehead house apes didn't know it was all pretend? Moe! Larry! Cheese!

A Susquehanna Hat Co. delivery truck a la Abbott & Costello.

In a nutshell, yes. However, there are oodles of other uses Novus products are good for, including polishing acrylic paint. As far as washing the parts, you're going to do that any way in order to remove mold release and skin oils so primer and paint adhere better, right? Novus 2 is perfect for polishing painted parts and Novus 1 is the "finishing" step. Not much different, and fewer steps required, than using micromesh pads to achieve the same results. I've used Novus for over 30 years and prefer to polish up paint jobs over the micromesh pads. Besides, you can polish those hard to reach crevices found on some bodywork, using Novus 2 and a Q-Tip, that are impossible to do with the micromesh without possibly removing the paint on raised edges and corners. This is just my preferred method, which works for me. Other modelers have their own. I find it easier this way. I'm a firm believer in the K.I.S.S. principle.

Nope. Testor Corporation is a subsidiary of RPM Corporation, Inc. It has been since, as previously mentioned, 1984. RPM also purchased Floquil, Polly-S/Polly Scale and Pactra. The only paint line owned by hobbico is Revell germany's Revell Color/Aqua Color.

You're right, Novus 1 isn't a polish. It's a cleaner and antistatic which leaves the surface very shiny and prevents fingerprint smudges and repels dust. We used it on flight helmet visors and plexiglass helicopter windows for those reasons and why it's it's great on models with a gloss finish. No. 3 is not for use on coated, i.e. painted, plastics. It's used to remove very heavy scratches. Novus No. 2 is great for removing fine scratches from parts after any sanding work. I also use Flitz Metal Polish (aka Blue magic in the States) for scratch removal and polishing parts prior to using Metalizer or Alclad products.

Soitenly! Three Stooges related items sell. End of story.

"Be careful or you'll put your eye out"; "You could hurt yourself doing that"; "Do you want to kill yourself in that thing?".....BAH!!!!! Enough with this "safety" already! All these here regulations take the fun out of doing stuff. "They" are turning us into human veal. Does anyone know how much gun cotton I'll need to cold crank a Chrysler Slant Six?

Drinking the fifth is more enjoyable. Hic!

Welcome Matt! Nice to see another Lawnguylanta on board. That T-Bolt is a beauty, man.

I usually let the acrylic clearcoat dry for about a week before I attempt to polish it. But, hey, that's just me. I want to make sure that it's completely dry and hardened. Other modelers might tell you that a day or two is sufficient. Experiment on a scrap body or some sheet styrene to determine what works for you. Everyone has different results based on coat thickness, dilution, temps, humidity, etc.

You could polish any type (flat, semigloss) paint to a glossy sheen. If you allow the acrylic clear to dry thoroughly, it produces a rock hard coat which will hold the shine without dulling. Just don't handle the finished model too much. Your skin oils will mar the finish. Use cotton gloves to prevent this from occurring. I've used Turtle Wax and Novus 1 and 2 to polish out acrylic clearcoats. The Novus is especially good because it provides anti-static properties to the finish,ie, it won't attract dust particles.

More. RPM acquired Testor Corp. on Jan. 20, 1984.

I was thinking more in the line of Platte River Associates. But, Ashley Madison works too.

I love this kit. Great work, Aaron. Good choice on the color. The technique you used on the pipes is convincing.

I'm liking this one, Steve. The upholstery looks dead on.

Also, check out art supply stores which have a section for architectural modeling. There's a Dick Blick Art Materials store in Tempe and it carries Plastruct products which are just as good as Evergreen.

Depends on what you're building. Are you planning to use "U" channels, rectangular tube or plain old vanilla chunks of styrene bar stock for the rails?

5/16" equals .3125". .08" equals 2/25" or 2 mm.

There's a company in Colorado that can help them with server issues.

Quick and dirty: get some thin copper wire, place the end in the jaws of box pliers, squeeze the end and trim to desired length.