SfanGoch

This is an example of too much is enough, like using a stick of dynamite to remove a twist-off cap on a bottle of soda. It's a friggin' Jeep, fer chrissakes, not an A-Body muscle car. It's bad enough that the Jeep has been transformed from a cool utility vehicle (which was meant to be driven in a manner that would result in laying waste to forests and leveling mountains and not worrying about the paint job too much. Just use a whisk brush to clear off any debris.) into a sissified (my opinion) luxury ride. Now, it's "Let's jam a rocket engine into a pigeon's patootie and call it a fighter".

I'm sure the widetrack Jeep Cherokee will be an instant hit.

Sounds fishy to me.

Hopefully, FCA won't start using those ridiculous alphanumeric designations, which look like password codes, that every blasted auto manufacturer has adopted to replace real model names. Oh, quit the overused and annoying monochromatic model lineup in TV ads. The Deutsche Neue Welle look is sooooooooo 1980s.

The former is doable. FCA might not be willing to pay Warner Bros. licensing fees for the latter. Sure miss that "Meep-Meep!" horn.

This is part of the "a quirky new take on the classic ____________(fill in your own choice)" strategy which is targeted toward parentally subsidized, Smith Bros. neckbearded, toilet plunger physiqued, pipe cleaner limbed, nasally-helium-infused-kazoo-voiced, ski-caps-and-scarves-in-the-summer-skinny-chick-jeans-Dinty Moore-lumberjack-shirt wearing, celebrating-their-seventh-anniversary-as-first-semester-NYU freshmen-majoring-in-Etruscan-cat-poetry Like, Yahstafarians, aka "Millennials" looking to upgrade from that vintage (read "used and hand painted") 1954 Schwinn Phantom fixie that cost almost as much as a fully loaded Hellcat.

Good point. Where's Diver Dan when you need him?

Bill, I read an article last week in which indicated that 2019 will be the last year of the Hemi V8 and the Hellcat will be killed off in 2018. Sure, you can get the same horses out of a V4 or V6; it just ain't the same. It's like a juiced up squirrel on a treadmill making sounds like a Cox .049 engine instead of a predatory big cat on the loose roaring to let one know he's in the neighborhood.

I've never been a fan of the aerodynamic "jellybean with wheels" design. There are no individual styling characteristics anymore. Almost everything on the road today looks like a slightly modified version of the car next to it. Either a bulky, rolling toaster with a sunroof or a Silly Putty egg with four doors and a sunroof. I blame Ford coming out with the Sierra XR4, initiating the "Bulgemobile" look, and killing off creative automotive design. This 'Cuda is just another example.

As a Dodge convertible only model. Not liking this look at all.

Google© is your friend: Left and Right Hand Traffic

You can also use Magic-Sculpt two part putty. It's great for filling in those annoying sink marks that are located in inconvenient locations. It can be smoothed with your finger (with a little water), which minimizes sanding, and there is no shrinkage. You won't tear up the surrounding plastic trying to remove any excess.

Hobby?!? Fun?!? Aw, go on. Quit pullin' our legs. Hobbies are the leading cause of psychotic episodes among people looking for relaxing diversions.

Put it away and take a break from the build. Attempting to continue working while becoming frustrated only begs for more mistakes to occur.

The most realistic, detailed nuts, bolts and rivets available are the resin items produced by Masterclub. Once you use them, you'll never use Tichy or Grandt Line again. They come in sizes from .4mm to 1.8mm and can be used for any scale. Depending on the size, you get 70-190 pieces in a resealable bag. They have 49 types/sizes of rivets available which cover any need. They have nuts and bolts with/without washers, cone rivets and castle nuts. Plus, they are really inexpensive, 150 Russian rubles ($2.29 USD at the present exchange rate). You can order them from Armor35, for which I provided the link. It's a good shop to do business with and ship (really reasonable) stateside. There are some stateside and overseas online shops that carry a limited selection of Masterclub items; but, they charge $4.50 and more per bag.

Check out the 1/4 scale "3D Printed" Model T Hot Rod.

The car modeler complains about kit inaccuracies as much as the armor modeler. Considering that the cost of an armor kit is $50+, and a car kit goes for around 16-20 bucks, that Revellogram 19-Eleventythree Fleem-mobile Hardtop kit leaves a lot more in the buyer's pocket to use for AM than does a $79.99 Dragon Tunisian Tiger I for a treadhead modeler; yet, the latter will gladly spend twice the kit price in order to get the AM parts to "get it right". Go figure.

Check out what Yaroslav, of Live Resin, does for weapons and gear. It's mindblowing. It doesn't get better than that. Still can't find even cast 1/24-25 figures and accessories, let alone 3D printed stuff, one tenth as good as what is available for 1/35. Wassup wi'dat, yo?

Nope. As Norbert explained: "Reedoak will not cast, you will get directly the 3D print as they are shown above." "I'm afraid some of the details, like microphone, wires, lines, pocket details, etc...will not survive the casting process. So it was a choice not to cast and try to keep all small details that make the difference." He also mentioned in another post that the printer is a type used to make jewelry. The tech savvy guys here can figure out the model.

First of all, Vallejo markets two different lines, Model Color and Model Air, for different applications The difference is that Model Air paints are formulated for hand painting figures and small objects and are more viscous; Model Air paints are are formulated thinner, with a finer pigment, to be airbrush ready out of the bottle. You'll get less than ideal results if you attempt to hand brush Model Air and if you attempt to airbrush Model Color. Unlike Model Master Acryl, Polly Scale or if you can get them, Revell Aqua Color, neither paint has any bite when applied to styrene and will scratch off easily from unprimed styrene. A primer coat is required to ensure that the paint stays where you applied it without lifting from the surface. You can thin either with distilled water, Testors/Vallejo acrylic thinner (in the case of the vallejo thinner, DO NOT use the milky stuff in the 17 ml bottles. That's actually an extender, which is different than a thinner.) or plain old isopropyl alcohol. Applying a gloss/semi/flat sealer coat is also a good idea, preferably one of the Model Master products because the Vallejo stuff suffers from the same permanency issues as do the paints. Interestingly, Vallejo paints adhere better to unprimed resin.

Well, my friend Mikey Yugo (He was from Yugoslavia. We couldn't pronounce his last name; so, he was known as Mikey Yugo ) owned a used Turquoise 1968 AMC Ambassador with a red interior. He repainted the car that color using a paint roller. He ended up with an interesting stucco finish.

Check the links I provided in a previous post.

If you want to paint the interiors stock, you can check OldRide or Auto Color Library to get interior color options. Embossing powder is a better true-to-scale choice than flocking powder because the particles are finer. The smaller particles give the carpeting a more realistic appearance. You can also buff the flat paints with a Q-Tip to get that nice vinyl look. If you're using flat enamels, you can use a soft bristle toothbrush to "polish" the paint to obtain a semi-gloss sheen. Use a stiffer brush to scrub the shine off the sidewalls of vinyl kit tires to get a more realistic flat rubber look.