SfanGoch

Nobody makes models of American buses. I've run into the same wall while looking for a GM "Fishbowl". I did run across a 1/25 resin 1965 GM PD-4104. Check out the price, though. One would have to be 100% certifiably bats**t crazy to pay 800 bucks for that.

First question: how long did you let the body dry? Second question: Dipping the body in Future............................WHAT IN THE WORLD WERE YOU THINKING?!? Dipping a part as large as a body is definitely not the recommended method for clearcoating. Too much Future will absolutely cause the acrylic paint to lift. Why didn't you airbrush the Future? It sprays right out of the container, requires no thinning and easily cleaned out of the brush with Windex. Just spray on two or three light mist coats to seal the base paint. Then, spray a wetter final coat to achieve a glossy finish. Also, don't brush Future on and acrylic painted surface. You have an airbrush; use it.

The humor.

Kudos and many thanks to Art and Dave for bringing some excitement back into the hobby. I look forward to every release. I'm definitely picking up a few of the Satellites. Ditto with the Poncho and Meteor. Now, fer sumpthin' OT........when're youse guys gonna reissue the Jupiter 2 Lighting kit? I've got three J2s and could only find one lighting set.

I do the cooking because my wife can't. Ever watch "Green Acres"? She cooks like Lisa Douglas.

It's the same. S-W packages the stuff exclusively for Hobby Lobby. It's like those bottles of Bob Smith Industries CA with the silver/purple labels. The name of whomever is selling the stuff at retail is affixed on a clear sticker over the original label.

The means to do that is currently on the FDA & DEA Controlled Substance List..

Aside from books, I avoid hoarding magazines. I prefer digital copies to avoid clutter. When I was a kid, the phrase commonly used by mothers when walking into a kid's room overstuffed with the total accumulation of useful junk like comics, toys, models, sports equipment and anything that we found in the street and thought was too cool to leave for someone else to scarf up was, :Watsamattawithyou?!? Clean up your room or you'll end up like the Collyer Brothers!!!"

Thanks for pointing that out, Walid. I don't know how I missed the resin at MCW. Price ain't bad, either.

Thanks for the link, Christopher. I will consider one, or both. They both look in decent shape. Bill, trimming the wheelwells would seem to be an easier workaround as opposed to lengthening the '58 Impala chassis. The '58 Chevy X-Frame was unique to that model year; the 59-60 frames were identical. On top of that the Chevy X-Frames had a completely different layout than Pontiac's: It'd be a real PITA to slice, dice and hack the Impala chassis and get it to look correct.

Hmm...... According to the website, the 1960 Pontiac Bonneville 2 Door HT was released on April 7, 2014. The only 4 Dr HT Bonneville is a 1959 model; no '60 Bonneville 4 Dr listed.

Model Master Gloss Clear Acryl is pretty good. It sprays on nicely, dries rock hard and polishes well.

Tom Daniel's official website.

I know that this is a copy of the AMT Promo. Here's the rub: I can't find any decent photos (Yeah, I know Google is my friend. Not this time, though. I also checked the Modelhaus Fotki album and found nothing.) of the original AMT kit to determine if it's worth purchasing. Can anyone give me the skinny on how accurate the body is? I'm thinking about the possibility of stuffing the Modelhaus body onto the Trumpeter '60 Bonneville Sports Coupe chassis. I really don't want to hack off the roofs of my Revell '59 or '60 Impalas and end up with naked chassis for either.

Here is Round 2's Model Kits Replacement Policy. Getting a concealed carry permit in NYC is easier than getting a replacement part from Round 2.

Thanks much for the information. Sign painting is a vanishing art form and it's great to see that there are people who keep it alive and viable.

After reading Mike 1017's "It's A Mad, Mad, Mad..." thread, I see that more than a few of you were checking out the cars in this flick. That reminded me of a site which saves you, the OCD-afflicted car aficionado, the trouble of going through each frame to ID a set of wheels. It's the International Movie Car Database. With this time saving reference, you can spend more of your valuable time debating about whether to paint the interior of your Duck Egg Blue Goggomobil T250 model Bozo Red or Fuscia with Smargadine accents

Tree House Studio is a Hobby Lobby house brand. Sherwin Williams packages it exclusively for the chain. This is the same as Krylon Crystal Clear Acrylic Spray. Krylon is a subsidiary of S-W; same product, different label.

I've a couple of the 72 color cases. If one wants to cover all the bases, paintwise, I think that's the way to go. I found that mixing Model Master Acryl Flat, Semi-Gloss or Gloss Clear with Vallejo paints increases their durability, ie, they stay put on the plastic (primed or not) and aren't as susceptible to scratching/peeling. For whatever reason, Vallejo paints adhere better to resin.

I also use Agama paints, manufactured in the Czech Republic and AKAN, from Russia. As far as accurately matching colors from actual samples found on military equipment, AKAN bats 1.000. This company has seven shades of RAL 7028 Dunkelgelb, all of which were identified on various parts and vehicles. That's a big deal for me, being that I build a lot of German Armor.

My second Trumpeter 1/16 King Tiger with full interior: Actually, ordered it yesterday and it should be in by next week. It's a great kit; although, it needs a lot of scratchbuilding to accurately replicate the interior.

Same here. The older Testors enamels covered in one coat. The new formulation is too thin; light on pigment, heavy on the carrier. The modeling equivalent of watered down bottom shelf booze at your local gin mill. I also have a large amount of Floquil enamel and Polly-S acrylics, circa 1974. Polly-S, and later Polly Scale, were the best acrylic paints on the market. Unlike Vallejo, they adhered to plastic and didn't scratch off after drying. Floquil paints back then contained xylene, great for painting white metal figures, not so good on styrene unless you primed the plastic first. Since RPM Corp. went on a buying binge about thirty years ago, acquiring Testors, Floquil/Polly-S, Pactra and just about every other paint manufacturer, we have less choices. Floquil/Polly-S was discontinued and replaced by the inferior Acryl and CreatFX lines. If you have the opportunity, get Revell-Germany Email Color (enamel) and/or Aqua Color (acrylic) paints. The acrylic paints can be hand brushed and don't leave brush marks. Both types are great through an airbrush.

Testors changed the formulation of the enamel paints in the late '80s-early '90s. The paints were reformulated as "Lead Free". Compared to the "old" formula, the new stuff is thinner and more translucent.