SfanGoch

70-100K is a little league field. The price, according to another article, will be approximately 260000 GBP (around $400000), which is in the same neighborhood as the Aventador. That's Major League mazuma.

Yup, temperature and humidity have an effect on drying times. Try to keep the painted part(s) at around 70 degrees/45-55% humidity. Colder temps and higher humidity increase drying times. Enamels aren't completely dry until all the solvents have evaporated (degassed). They might seem dry to the touch after a few hours; but, that is only the surface skin. The paint underneath isn't fully cured. Enamel paints take 3-5 days to fully cure. If you can't smell the paint anymore, it's dry. Ditto with acrylics. The paint is completely dry in about the same length of time. If you can run a fingernail across the surface without leaving a scuff, it's dry.

Geez.....I've only been a member of this board for a very short time; however, I have visited it many times over the years prior to registering. One constant is that you always fail to surprise me with your abrasive attitude. Whether or not you believe it would work is irrelevant. You're the last person I need to seek a nod of approval from and I won't lose any sleep based on what you think is possible. Before I brought up the topic, I doubt you even heard of, or knew about, fusee chain and what it's uses are. Tom was asking about alternatives to PE drive chains and I provided him with a viable option. If he feels that this might work, great. I guess Tamiya tape was the best you could bring to the table. That's O.K. Everyone has their limitations.

Hmmm......... I recall the following comment made by some guy in another post: "the envious cry out, 'it can't be done'" Maybe you know that guy, huh? Reminds me of another famous quote: I suppose it can't be done. Sorta like trying to put hair on a scale figure, right? Oh wait......Keeichi Aoki does that in 1/35. That's enough to humble any modeler. Given patience, skill and the proper materials, anything is possible. You should expand your modeling horizons. Necessity is the mother of invention, broski. Adopting/adapting techniques from other modeling genres to fit one's needs makes for a better hobbyist. Fusee drive chain for 1/35 scale bikes and motorcycles has been discussed in a number of armor modeling forums; and, guys have used it with no problem. If it can be done in 1/35, it certainly can be done in a larger scale, like 1/25. All one needs to do is get the right size for the project. That's when Google is your friend.

Try fusee drive chains. These are essentially miniature drive chains used in pocket watches. They come in different sizes.

It's not as if Round 2 decided to do this recently. The 1966 Chevelle was one of the first group of Lindberg kits R2 released since it acquired Lindberg and Hawk. The kit was reissued and available for purchase since 2013. Check the release date here: Lindberg Chevy Chevelle

Gotta agree with you on that. When I was a kid, there was a hobby shop, three stationery stores and three toy stores just in my neighborhood where I could buy models. Even the bigger candy stores had a small model section in the back behind the magazine and comic racks. Where do you go, Bruckner Hobbies on E. Tremont? Great for R/C; lousy for plastic. If you don't mind taking a ride to Queens, there's 105 Hobbies, on Jamaica Ave., in Richmond Hill. They specialize in R/C; but, the model section is car-heavy. if you don't see it, they'll order it and you'll get it within the week. considering that this is a NYC hobby shop, the prices are pretty good; definitely better than Jan's in Manhattan.

Italeri, Revell and a few other companies do, indeed, make bus kits. None of them are American-manufactured. Dave was specifically asking about a bus used by Greyhound in the '70s which would have been a General Motors-built vehicle. If you run across a GM for less than eight bills, that would help.

Old habits die hard. As far as a/c modelers dipping canopies goes, they aren't large parts and are dipped before painting the frames, if the canopy has them. Any other parts with a large surface area, like wings, fuselage, etc., would be airbrushed. William indicated that he's had to remove excess with ammonia after dipping a body. That be the problem, matey.The problem with dipping something as big as a car body is controlling the bulidup and/or runoff of excess Pledge around the wheelwells, window frames and other locations. When you airbrush paint or Pledge, you have absolute control over the amount of medium being applied. Multiple light coats are always better.

Nobody makes models of American buses. I've run into the same wall while looking for a GM "Fishbowl". I did run across a 1/25 resin 1965 GM PD-4104. Check out the price, though. One would have to be 100% certifiably bats**t crazy to pay 800 bucks for that.

First question: how long did you let the body dry? Second question: Dipping the body in Future............................WHAT IN THE WORLD WERE YOU THINKING?!? Dipping a part as large as a body is definitely not the recommended method for clearcoating. Too much Future will absolutely cause the acrylic paint to lift. Why didn't you airbrush the Future? It sprays right out of the container, requires no thinning and easily cleaned out of the brush with Windex. Just spray on two or three light mist coats to seal the base paint. Then, spray a wetter final coat to achieve a glossy finish. Also, don't brush Future on and acrylic painted surface. You have an airbrush; use it.

The humor.

Kudos and many thanks to Art and Dave for bringing some excitement back into the hobby. I look forward to every release. I'm definitely picking up a few of the Satellites. Ditto with the Poncho and Meteor. Now, fer sumpthin' OT........when're youse guys gonna reissue the Jupiter 2 Lighting kit? I've got three J2s and could only find one lighting set.

I do the cooking because my wife can't. Ever watch "Green Acres"? She cooks like Lisa Douglas.

It's the same. S-W packages the stuff exclusively for Hobby Lobby. It's like those bottles of Bob Smith Industries CA with the silver/purple labels. The name of whomever is selling the stuff at retail is affixed on a clear sticker over the original label.

The means to do that is currently on the FDA & DEA Controlled Substance List..

Aside from books, I avoid hoarding magazines. I prefer digital copies to avoid clutter. When I was a kid, the phrase commonly used by mothers when walking into a kid's room overstuffed with the total accumulation of useful junk like comics, toys, models, sports equipment and anything that we found in the street and thought was too cool to leave for someone else to scarf up was, :Watsamattawithyou?!? Clean up your room or you'll end up like the Collyer Brothers!!!"

Thanks for pointing that out, Walid. I don't know how I missed the resin at MCW. Price ain't bad, either.

Thanks for the link, Christopher. I will consider one, or both. They both look in decent shape. Bill, trimming the wheelwells would seem to be an easier workaround as opposed to lengthening the '58 Impala chassis. The '58 Chevy X-Frame was unique to that model year; the 59-60 frames were identical. On top of that the Chevy X-Frames had a completely different layout than Pontiac's: It'd be a real PITA to slice, dice and hack the Impala chassis and get it to look correct.

Hmm...... According to the website, the 1960 Pontiac Bonneville 2 Door HT was released on April 7, 2014. The only 4 Dr HT Bonneville is a 1959 model; no '60 Bonneville 4 Dr listed.

Model Master Gloss Clear Acryl is pretty good. It sprays on nicely, dries rock hard and polishes well.

Tom Daniel's official website.

I know that this is a copy of the AMT Promo. Here's the rub: I can't find any decent photos (Yeah, I know Google is my friend. Not this time, though. I also checked the Modelhaus Fotki album and found nothing.) of the original AMT kit to determine if it's worth purchasing. Can anyone give me the skinny on how accurate the body is? I'm thinking about the possibility of stuffing the Modelhaus body onto the Trumpeter '60 Bonneville Sports Coupe chassis. I really don't want to hack off the roofs of my Revell '59 or '60 Impalas and end up with naked chassis for either.

Here is Round 2's Model Kits Replacement Policy. Getting a concealed carry permit in NYC is easier than getting a replacement part from Round 2.

Thanks much for the information. Sign painting is a vanishing art form and it's great to see that there are people who keep it alive and viable.