SfanGoch

Why do some folks think that hobby related forums are supposed to be a whimsical, fairytale-like wonderland where seldom is heard a discouraging word and the sky is not cloudy all day? Like in any artform, expect criticism when you choose to showcase your work. Receiving criticism is part and parcel of the deal. Nobody goes out of their way to trash someone else's work. Expecting to get showered only with empty praise, minus any critiques, if one posts pics of a WIP/finished build is somewhat narcissistic. It's also an indication that the poster who can't handle it is thin-skinned. Just because you, in the general context, think your work is perfect doesn't mean it is. Even the guys at the top of the modeling food chain get raked over the coals for mistakes, inaccuracies and plain old goofups. Would you rather have everybody lie about what they see just to make you feel good about yourself and not hurt your feelings; or, accept the criticism, recheck your work against what was pointed out and try to improve your work and skills? If it's the former, you're in for a whole lot of butt hurt. If it's the latter, you'll only get better at what you're doing.

Model Roundup's indicating it'll be available in March. You can pocket the other two bits.

This isn't what is advertised. The item description of this kit isn't accurate either. No model (especially a resin one, for that matter. Series production started in 1951. No special effects departments used resin models in the fifties.) was ever used to simulate Superman flying. That was George Reeves lying on a flat surface while being filmed against a matte/back projected background. It's been common knowledge for years. Definitely not worth the $1K-$2K estimate. At the most, this is worth $100-150.

By any chance, would it be this one:

Building goodwill with customers is important. To wit: I ordered a number of HRM items for two Corvette GS projects on the bench, through a well known online shop (No, not THAT one ), in May of last year. I received part of the order within a week and was informed that the balance was backordered. No problem. I understand. I again inquired about the backordered items in October and was informed that Harold had some health issues and that the items would be ready in a couple of weeks. O.K., I can sympathize with Harold. I broke my neck in a trucking accident in 2007 and completely understand how one's health has an impact on one's ability to perform common day to day activities. Forward to today: I decided to search this forum for any posts on HRM. I found one from August 2014 in which a guy said he ordered a Ferrari TR250 engine from Harold and received it in under two weeks. Not bad. I ordered, among other items, a set of headers and two sets of Hallibrands in May and I still can't get those eight months later. Yeah, I know, Harold's a great guy and his products are worth the wait. The same was said about Gordon Brown. Gordo runs a company called Cromwell Models. It's also a one man operation. For those of you who cross over to the dark side and build armor, you know that Gordo is well known for the high quality and accuracy of the kits, conversions and accessories he produces. Everybody raved about his stuff. Gordo also had a problem filling orders; but, people kept swearing that, for however long it took to fill an order, it was definitely worth the wait. That was until Gordo would stretch that wait out into months, then years. After literally hundreds of complaints from dissatisfied customers were posted on various forums, Gordo finally responded. He said that, among other things, health issues prevented him from fulfilling the outstanding orders but he was going to take care of that. He never really did. He still attends all the major model shows in Europe, still running into irate customers who are still waiting for their items. Needless to say that Gordo doesn't get any more good publicity for either his goods or services. Definitely not the way to foster goodwill with your clients and increase your customer base. If Harold is experiencing difficulties in catching up with backorders, wouldn't it be smart, business-wise, to get someone to help with the casting? I'm not attempting to disparage Harold. I just question his method of operation. To be honest, except for being on an organ transplant list, nothing else is worth the wait.

?!? If that is the case, wiring a model should be a lead pipe cinch. The only difference is less wires in a model.

If you look around, you can also find lighters with red and blue SMDs which flash in an alternating pattern. Those can be used to wire up a lightbar on a model squad car.

Good job! It's a fairly simple technique. Spray the base color onto the part(s) and allow to dry. Then, spray a light coat of hairspray over the painted part. Let the hairspray dry. Then, spray on the color (acrylic) you want to weather. Using a toothbrush and warm water, scrub the part until you start seeing the top layer of paint come of and expose the base paint. The warm water softens the hairspray, allowing the top layer of paint to come off.

You can also stop by your local newsstand/candy store/deli and pick up some butane lighters with built-in LED flashlights for a buck each. Take the bottom cap off, pull out the the light and use the unit as the basis to wire and light your car. The unit (less than an inch long) consists of a plastic holder containing 3 LR41 button cells, contacts and a LED. This is small enough to be almost invisible (except for switch. You can use a micro DPDT push on/push off switch when installing it in the gas tank. Only the button needs to be visible) All you'll need to do is connect whatever LEDs you plan on using and add the micro DPDT push on/push off switch. Cheap, and it works.

ICM's fantastic Typ 770K and G4 kits also have multi-piece bodies and build up nicely with no problems.

Not that Mendoza line. It's a baseball expression named after journeyman player Mario Mendoza. It describes the low end cut-off point (a .200 Batting Average) for offensive productivity. Good ole Mario batted below that ( between .180 and .199) four out of five years from 1975-79. The term has also been co-opted for use outside of baseball. If you started five builds at the beginning of the year and only finished one (1/5 = .200), you're at the Mendoza Line. If you started more than that and still finished only one, you're below it. Now, pick up yer glove an' hit de showers.

You familiar with the Mendoza Line?

Try finding a place to charge one in NYC. Only one location in Brooklyn. Not worth the trouble and expense. The EPA should be abolished. Immediately, if not sooner. Nothing worse than having your life regulated by diktat.

Considering That Ford SVO will probably charge $125 per lug nut for the GT-40, that's not too bad. The scrap yard where I towed the Valiant offered me $50. That's what the owner wanted for taking it off my hands.

Besides getting frog marched out the door of a dealership for even bringing it up, what do you think I could get in trade-in value for a '66 Valiant with a seized Slant 6 toward one of these babies?

Even muscle cars evolved. They went from slab-sided bricks with big engines to slick, area rule-incorporated streamlined designs with big engines. '64 GTO '68 GTO

70-100K is a little league field. The price, according to another article, will be approximately 260000 GBP (around $400000), which is in the same neighborhood as the Aventador. That's Major League mazuma.

Yup, temperature and humidity have an effect on drying times. Try to keep the painted part(s) at around 70 degrees/45-55% humidity. Colder temps and higher humidity increase drying times. Enamels aren't completely dry until all the solvents have evaporated (degassed). They might seem dry to the touch after a few hours; but, that is only the surface skin. The paint underneath isn't fully cured. Enamel paints take 3-5 days to fully cure. If you can't smell the paint anymore, it's dry. Ditto with acrylics. The paint is completely dry in about the same length of time. If you can run a fingernail across the surface without leaving a scuff, it's dry.

Geez.....I've only been a member of this board for a very short time; however, I have visited it many times over the years prior to registering. One constant is that you always fail to surprise me with your abrasive attitude. Whether or not you believe it would work is irrelevant. You're the last person I need to seek a nod of approval from and I won't lose any sleep based on what you think is possible. Before I brought up the topic, I doubt you even heard of, or knew about, fusee chain and what it's uses are. Tom was asking about alternatives to PE drive chains and I provided him with a viable option. If he feels that this might work, great. I guess Tamiya tape was the best you could bring to the table. That's O.K. Everyone has their limitations.

Hmmm......... I recall the following comment made by some guy in another post: "the envious cry out, 'it can't be done'" Maybe you know that guy, huh? Reminds me of another famous quote: I suppose it can't be done. Sorta like trying to put hair on a scale figure, right? Oh wait......Keeichi Aoki does that in 1/35. That's enough to humble any modeler. Given patience, skill and the proper materials, anything is possible. You should expand your modeling horizons. Necessity is the mother of invention, broski. Adopting/adapting techniques from other modeling genres to fit one's needs makes for a better hobbyist. Fusee drive chain for 1/35 scale bikes and motorcycles has been discussed in a number of armor modeling forums; and, guys have used it with no problem. If it can be done in 1/35, it certainly can be done in a larger scale, like 1/25. All one needs to do is get the right size for the project. That's when Google is your friend.

Try fusee drive chains. These are essentially miniature drive chains used in pocket watches. They come in different sizes.

It's not as if Round 2 decided to do this recently. The 1966 Chevelle was one of the first group of Lindberg kits R2 released since it acquired Lindberg and Hawk. The kit was reissued and available for purchase since 2013. Check the release date here: Lindberg Chevy Chevelle

Gotta agree with you on that. When I was a kid, there was a hobby shop, three stationery stores and three toy stores just in my neighborhood where I could buy models. Even the bigger candy stores had a small model section in the back behind the magazine and comic racks. Where do you go, Bruckner Hobbies on E. Tremont? Great for R/C; lousy for plastic. If you don't mind taking a ride to Queens, there's 105 Hobbies, on Jamaica Ave., in Richmond Hill. They specialize in R/C; but, the model section is car-heavy. if you don't see it, they'll order it and you'll get it within the week. considering that this is a NYC hobby shop, the prices are pretty good; definitely better than Jan's in Manhattan.

Italeri, Revell and a few other companies do, indeed, make bus kits. None of them are American-manufactured. Dave was specifically asking about a bus used by Greyhound in the '70s which would have been a General Motors-built vehicle. If you run across a GM for less than eight bills, that would help.

Old habits die hard. As far as a/c modelers dipping canopies goes, they aren't large parts and are dipped before painting the frames, if the canopy has them. Any other parts with a large surface area, like wings, fuselage, etc., would be airbrushed. William indicated that he's had to remove excess with ammonia after dipping a body. That be the problem, matey.The problem with dipping something as big as a car body is controlling the bulidup and/or runoff of excess Pledge around the wheelwells, window frames and other locations. When you airbrush paint or Pledge, you have absolute control over the amount of medium being applied. Multiple light coats are always better.