SfanGoch

I'm picking up an Aurora 864-198 for 14 bucks.

That there wooden bumper was known as the "Wheelman Model". It was offered as an OEM spare in the event you left the steel one in somebody's fence. That second plate might be from Delaware. I found this site pretty informative. If that car was used for some "business", those were some pretty stupid mugs. You're supposed to replace the original set of plates, not hang the new ones over them.

Some folks can't deal with reality. They'll get over it sooner or later. Or not. Their problem if it's the latter.

A 1921 Buick 45. This looks like a job for

Don't you think Revell would've continued producing this kit, considering its popularity and that it was selling out so quickly, if it was in possession of the molds?The kit was out of production ever since AM went out of business. Revell never had the molds and never produced any new kits. It was all final existing stock boxed up by Revell.

I wish that Eduard would consider reissuing the PE which came with the AM and Revell releases. That's what is almost never found when getting opened secondhand kits on evilBay.

Could have been used in a hit or a robbery. Murder, Inc., for example, would steal a car and plates that would be used in either from other, distant and separate neighborhoods and park it in a garage they used for such contingencies. When it came time to pull off a job, the stolen plates would be put on the stolen car, preventing the cops from making a positive I.D. When they finished the job, the car would be ditched far enough away from where the job took place to, once again, prevent it being traced it back to them and the boys would use a "clean" car to escape in.

Check out Model Car Tech. Here's a page on engine wiring.

They are acrylic lacquers. I've used the Military Colors and can't recommend them enough. Use their Gaia color thinner for best results. Check out the Gaianotes website.

You asked about eliminating static charge in a wooden spray booth, correct? I replied that a wooden spray booth wouldn't have that problem for the reasons stated, correct? You never indicated in your posts that there were plexiglass windows on the booth, correct? Therefore, you received an answer based on the information you provided. You want to eliminate a static charge from the plexiglass and car body? Simple. Lightly wipe them with a fabric softener sheet. Works the same as an anti-static cloth. No need to spray any liquid on either.

You asked a question, I provided the answer/explanation. Basic high school physics. Wood doesn't carry a static charge because it doesn't conduct electricity. If you were using a metal booth, the simple solution would be to attach a ground strap from the booth to another metallic object. Grounding is the process of removing the excess charge on an object by means of the transfer of electrons between it and another object of substantial size. When a charged object is grounded, the excess charge is balanced by the transfer of electrons between the charged object and a ground. In order to develop a static charge, there must be a free movement of electrons through the material. That state doesn't exist in wood; therefore, there is no static charge to eliminate. That's why it's used as an insulator. If you don't believe me, Google it.

Rumors of his demise are obviously premature. There isn't any report on any wire services confirming this. Actor John Agar was reported dead numerous times over a twenty year period before he cashed his chips in 2002.

There is no static charge to eliminate. Wood doesn't create static electricity because it isn't a conductor of electricity.

Being an idiot savant, I scored 100%.

It sure does. Although, that greater detail still requires that one's Mk.1 eyeballs are able to properly focus while creating the aforementioned greater details. As other posters have stated, Opti-Visors or reading glasses will allow you to see your work more clearly; and, that includes 1/25 and smaller. You won't have to sacrifice building in "smaller" scales because you don't see as well.

Metalizer Brass and a coat of clear flat tinted with flat brown works.

Excellent solution and best technique yet, Steve. I'm going to try it with Magic-Sculp since I have a lifetime supply.

I have TSM 00906, the Henschel turret production version with clear upper hull and turret options. It's great that Trumpeter released a 1/16 kit. That said, this kit is a pig in terms of interior accuracy. Trumpeter skimped on the research and it shows. A lot of work is required to get this cat into shape. There is a resource page which is dedicated to this kit: TRUMPETER TIGER 2 :: A BUILD & INFO RESOURCE! The soon to be released Jagdtiger will not be much better. Aside from an elongated lower hull, Trumpeter never bothered correcting any of the previous errors found in the KT.

I'll ask my old friend Augie. He works at the George Motchan Detention Center. I don't believe the guests are allowed to use X-Acto knives, files or sprue cutters. :)

You might as well suggest a trip to Riker's Island, fer chrissakes! There's not much difference between the two. Well, there is. You get green baloney sammiches and blue Kool-Aid at Riker's.

The only real hobby shop left in Manhattan is Jan's Hobby Shop. It's located at 1435 Lexington Avenue, between E.93rd and E.94th Streets. That said, let me inform you that the car kit selection is pretty sparse and the place is really expensive. The kits run for 30%+ over retail price. If your friend wouldn't mind taking the subway, he can go to Modelcars.com (that's the actual name of the place). You can also check it out online using that name. It is located at 38-01 23rd Avenue, Suite 407, in the neighborhood called Astoria. He can take the N or W train to the Ditmars Boulevard station, then head east to 38th Street. Take a right (going north) at 38th St. and the store is located on the corner of 38th St. and 23rd Avenue on the fourth floor. It is open Monday-Friday 10 A.M.-6 P.M. They carry a large selection of kits and the prices are pretty darned good. He might be lucky and find some great closeout deals.

Wrinkling is a normal occurrence when using decal softener. The decal will flatten out when it dries. Using a blow dryer in order to speed up the process could damage the decal and soften the paint. The model ain't going anywhere. Let the decal dry on its own through evaporation. Exercising some patience can prevent a lot of potential agita and grief.

If anyone runs into Jim peddling his goods at any upcoming shows, that'll tell you a lot about his credibility and integrity.

Hmmm....reminds me of a Crashmobile.

I once finished a balsa midget racer. It ended up as a test bed for bottle rocket propulsion.