bh1701

I picked this up from an online seller. The kit was actually a 1968 Cougar, but I wanted to modify it to look like the 1967 model. That required sanding off front and rear marker lights from the fenders, Cougar script on the rear fenders, and GT emblems on the front fenders. To get the correct Cougar emblem on the rear fenders, I used a decal set from Keith Marks. I also sanded off the trunk lid details and the XR7 logos on the sides of the roof since the decal set also included those. The pin stripes are also from the decal set. The color is Phoenician Yellow from Scale Finishes. Phoenician Yellow was for name used by Ford; Mercury called it Jamaican Yellow. The kit was missing one of the stock wheels, so I had to use the custom wheels from the kit. Since these were intended for the Drag version (with the wide rear tires), I had to trim the posts that the rear axle attached to so that the stock tires would fit correctly. Painting the chrome strips on the rear tail lights was a lot of fun! I usually take photos of my interiors before they are attached to the body so that I can capture all of the details. Trying to photograph the interior once it is in the body can be challenging - both from a focus and lighting perspective. I tried something new with these photos - I took an extra battery box and an small LED light that was left over from the lighting I did for a Star Trek shuttlecraft. I attached the LED to a thin piece of plastic and added a 90 degree bend to it. I can slide that light into the top of the interior to get some light on the interior in the finished model. I have a few sleeves made out of paper that I can slide over the LED if it looks too bright; these help to diffuse the light and reduce the intensity. Bart NOTE: Interior light was used on the first 2 photos NOTE: No interior light for the next photo. My interior lighting invention

Thanks! The windows were painted with a white base first and then the decals with the text and graphics were applied. I create my own decals and have them printed at my local Fed Ex Printing office. The printers that they use for my decals cannot print white (as most printers cannot do). Bart

Looks really nice! Especially like the interior! Bart

One of my friends is a State Farm agent and he asked me to make a model of his business vehicle - a 2007 Jeep Liberty. I started with a 1/18th scale diecast model and took it apart (which is not an easy task - I think you could drop it from 10 feet and it wouldn't be harmed!). I used Aviation Paint Stripper to get the paint off - which was really effective. It is a gel that you brush onto the model - and about 5 minutes later you use the brush to remove the paint which has bubbled into piles of goo. Krylon white paint with primer was used for the body. I created the decals using Photoshop with photos I had taken and some of the artwork that was created by the company that made the wrap used on the actual car. Thanks for checking this out! Bart The disassembled model The paint stripper I used After paint has been removed The actual vehicle

Here is my latest completion - a 1961 Ford Galaxie Club Victoria. The paint is Tamiya TS-94 Metallic Gray - which is a really dark metallic gray, which is pretty close to black. Chrome trim and scripts were done with Bare Metal foil for some, and hand painting for others. Thanks for checking this out! Bart

Once I use them, I may be able to answer your question. Until then, I am sure others on the forum may have some experience with them. Bart

Brian, Would you use an X-Acto knife with a sharp #11 blade to then cut the decal out? Bart

Thanks for the tip. Good to know! Bart

I hope my question makes sense. I have some decals from Keith Marks. The decal layer on the blue transfer paper covers the entire decal sheet. I need to be able to cut individual elements from the sheet. I want to be able to cut as closely as possible to each element. Would decal scissors be the best tool to use? If so, any recommendations on the best ones to get? ...or are there other methods you'd recommend using? Thanks, Bart

Excellent work! I especially like the scenes with the mailbox diorama. Bart

Sounds like you have quite the collection of VW Beetles! I just have the one Beetle. However, if you ask me about Mustangs, I have around 25-30 of those - plastic models, die cast models, Matchbox and Johnny Lightning, etc.! Bart

That really catches your eye! Great work! Bart

Here is my 1968 VW Beetle. This is the Revell 1/25th scale kit. The model went together very well - I have to hand it to Revell-Germany for a well engineered kit. It is finished in Rustoleum 2x paint - the color is Spa Blue. The rear engine cover hinge was the only part I omitted. I test fit it and it felt kind of stiff. I was also afraid that the paint on edges of the body and cover might get chipped in the process of opening and closing it.. So, the cover just rests in place. Thanks, Bart

I have tackled a few Metal Earth kits - a guitar for a musician friend, and a BNSF train for a friend when he retired from BNSF. I have a few of the Star Trek kits to build, and also the Fokker tri-plane. I will work on these someday when I want a challenge and want to practice my swearing. 😊. They definitely require a lot of patience to build them. Good luck with the Arizona! Can't wait to see the finished product. Bart

Len, I recently repaired a 67 T-Bird with a broken A-Pillar. I did what I think most people do - which is to use various sizes and thicknesses of plastic strips to rebuild the pillar and roofline. I used a wider strip for the back of the pillars, and then used thin narrow strips to build out the exposed portion of them. Some body putty and some very gentle sanding were also used to fill in any small gaps that still existed Hopefully these photos will give you some idea of how I did it. I think it was a pretty "solid" repair. The window glass behind the pillars also helps to provide support. Good luck with your T-Bird. It has more damage than I started with, but you should be able to rescue it! Bart Almost there - still had a little bit of sanding and body putty to be done. The finished restoration

Thanks everyone for your ideas and suggestions. I had tried stamping some script with the eraser method before, but was not very successful with it. However, I decided to try the stamping method again with the tail lights. I used a Metallic Silver craft paint and a fresh flat eraser from a retractable pencil. The craft paint was easy to remove with a sharpened toothpick if the paint strayed too far from the ribs. Here are my results. I think it came out very well. If this method didn't work, my second choice probably would have been to try bare metal foil over the tail lights, apply Tamiya Transparent Red carefully, and then remove any red that strayed onto the ridges. I did like this approach since you could peel the foil off and try again if your results weren't that good. But, I do agree with others that the tail lights look better when you keep the original transparent red plastic in place. Bart

Brian, Do you have a photo of the gel pen you used - that shows the product name/info on it? I looked online and find several different types of Pentel Metallic pens. Thanks, Bart

I am working on a 1967 Mercury Cougar. Trying to figure out how to paint the vertical chrome strips on the tail lights. My first idea was to paint the entire piece silver/chrome, and then use Tamiya Clear Red (maybe thinned down a bit) to act as a wash with the hopes that the red would settle down into the areas between the chrome strips. What do you think of my approach? Any other ideas on how I might approach this? Thanks, Bart

Commander Data would be proud of your work! Looks great! Bart

Thanks everyone for all of the suggestions and tips! I think I have enough ideas to feel comfortable to tackle the painting of my die-cast model now! Bart

It is a 1/18 DieCast model ( Matchbox Jeep Liberty). I removed the existing paint using an Aviation Paint Stripper. Bart

Can you use Tamiya TS sprays on metal? The TS cans say "For Plastics", but their Fine Surface Primers say "For Plastic & Metal". If I prime the metal with their primer first, can the regular TS spray be used after that successfully? Thanks, Bart

I have also used Krylon paints and have been satisfied with them. Rustoleum had colors that were closer to what I needed. No clogged nozzles yet with Rustoleum; but that may eventually happen to me. Let's not turn this into a debate about paint brands; instead, let's please focus on my questions about dehydrators. Thanks, Bart

I have used Rustoleum 2x Paint w/Primer on my last two kits. The can says that it takes about 5-7 days for paint to fully dry and harden on plastic. I definitely agree - since the models are tacky to the touch for quite a few days! Would a dehydrator help speed up the drying time for this paint? If so, any recommendations for an affordable one that can be found in today's market? I've seen that 105 degrees seems to be the preferred temperature to use. How long would you generally leave the model in the dehydrator? Thanks for any advice you can offer! Bart

Great save! It looks fantastic! Bart