bh1701

Here are some photos of my 49 Mercury Station Wagon. More information about the build can be found in my Under Glass posting. Bart

I got a kit from a model car show. It was already opened and I thought I had checked that all parts were in the box. I don't know how I missed this, but it was short the metal axles and the inner wheels. Would anyone have any of these? I don't think it matters too much what kit they are from, but my kit is the 1961 Ford Galaxie. If I need to, I know I could make the axles out of some metal rod, but would prefer to avoid that if possible. Thanks, Bart

David, That turned out really well! I was following your WIP thread, and all of the effort you put into this kit was well worth it! Bart

David, I would be happy to post some photos to the community thread. Do you have a link for it? Bart

Thanks, David There is an engine in this model. I usually don't include photos of the engine, since I usually just use whatever is in the kit and do not add any wiring or hoses like some of the forums members do. But, here are some photos of it. This doesn't look like the stock 1949 engine. I think I heard that it may be a Cadillac engine. I think the kit was once done as a Surf Woody which would explain the different engine, and the Hawaii and California license plate decals that were included. Thanks, Bart

I bought one of these at a model show and thought I had checked to be sure that all parts were in the box. Looks like I am missing the stock rear bumper. Does anyone have one of these? Hoping maybe somebody built one of the custom versions and saved their spare parts! If nobody has one, I may be able to get one from Round2 (for a price!) if they still have parts available. Thought I'd check here first! Thanks, Bart

Here is my latest completion - a 1949 Mercury Wagon. This is the Revell kit. Painted with Scalefinishes Bermuda Cream paint to duplicate a color offered on the real car. Mercury script on the hood is hand painted. Various colors of Testor's and Craft Paints used for the interior. Also used Tamiya Black Panel liner to fill in the letters on the hubcaps and on the front fenders. I decided to add the black to the lettering on the front fenders after I took some of the photos - so you won't see it on all of the photos. This was a very nice kit that went together well. Several firsts for me with this kit: First time using Scalefinishes paint. Really impressed by how well it came out. This is my 3rd attempt at airbrushing. First two times were using craft paint on other models. First time trying to paint simulated woodgrain. The dashboard, interior side panels, and lighter wood trim on the exterior were the pieces done.

Greg, Thanks for finding the Coca Cola version of the Jeep Liberty. That's the first 1/24th scale one I have seen. The price might be a little high for me. The 1/18 scale ones I have seen run from $50 to $80. Also, I need to repaint and decal whatever one I get to replicate a friend's business vehicle. I am worried that it might be hard to remove the Coca-Cola decals that are on the side rear windows. I appreciate you searching for this. I will continue to search for 1/24 scale versions since we now know that someone was making them. Maybe I will be able to find a stock version. Bart

Looking for a 2002-2007 Jeep Liberty - could be plastic model or diecast. Prefer plastic kit. 1/25th scale or larger? Does anyone know where I might find one. FYI: I have located a number of Matchbox 1/18 scale diecast cars on the Internet, but wondering if there is anything else out there? Thanks, Bart

Looks good! I can smell the onions on the sliders right now! Bart

This is something quite a bit different from my usual car and science fiction models. I scratch built this HO scale model of Dallas Union Station for a friend who has a Free-Mo module that represents the station and the surrounding tracks in the 1950's. The model measures about 19" x 38". I created images of all of the exterior walls using my Photoshop skills and had them printed on heavy weight paper at my local Fed Ex Printing shop. The images were glued to 1/16" plastic sheets that were then glued to an interior wood framework that is attached to plywood bases. It's built in 4 sections for easier storage and transportation. Some of the more creative aspects of this model are the urns that are by the front balcony. These are doll house Coke bottles painted white and flipped over. The columns are 5-inch fluted wood dowels, O-Rings, and small plastic square tiles on the top and bottom. The canopy that extends out from the side of the building uses necklaces and pins from Hobby Lobby; the canopy is removeable to protect it from damage while being transported or stored. Balusters along the top edges of the walls were 3-D plastic prints. Roof material is a gray art paper from Hobby Lobby. Roof details are from a Walthers roof detail set. Thanks for checking this out! The wood framework that supports the walls. The 4 sections that make up the station. Doll house coke bottles Coke bottles painted white and flipped over to become some urns for the front of the station. Columns are made with fluted wood dowels, O-Rings, and square pieces on top and bottom. Finished columns and urns installed. Canopy with necklaces for the chains. Roofs removed to show interior and clamps that attach sections together.

Very clever! Great looking model! Bart

Stunning build!\

David, The Thunderbird script is just chrome paint. The black highlights you see around the letters are actual real-life shadows that my camera captured. On the dash, I did use black wash to accent the air vents, heater / AC control panel, radio and other details. When I look at my photos, the dashboard always amazes me at how well it turned out. I even surprise myself sometimes! Bart

Thanks everyone for the comments! Bob, I, too, was amazed at how well that script came out. ☺️ To be honest, I think it was a combination of a brush and a sharpened toothpick. Bart

I purchased this online recently. It is an AMT promo model of the 1967 Ford Thunderbird. The model had a couple of issues with it. The front passenger window frame was missing a section, and the plastic windows had yellowed badly. I used plastic strips and putty to repair the window frame. I tried several techniques to remove the yellowing from the windows, but none of them worked. So I created new windows using clear plastic sheets. The color is Tamiya TS-75 Champagne Gold. I was trying to get a color similar to the Sauterne Gold that was offered that year. The rocker panels are done with Bare Metal foil. I hand-painted the Thunderbird script, emblems and window frames using Zoet Chrome markers. I press the tip of the marker several times on a scrap piece of plastic to get a wet blob of the chrome paint, and then apply it using a fine paint brush. It is a nice addition to my many Thunderbird models. Thanks for looking! Bart Broken window frame Yellowed glass Repairing the broken window frame

That's absolutely amazing! Wish I had some of your skills. Adding LED lighting on my Galileo 7 shuttlecraft was pushing my skills to the limit for me! Bart

I use an old Tic-Tac container for my used #11 blades. Pop the lid, drop the blade in, and close it. Works well! I like everyone else's ideas, too! Bart

Wondering if anyone has the side mirrors from any of the MPC Fiero kits? At a minimum, I need the side mirror for the driver's door. If someone had both the driver and passenger mirrors, that would be even better! I even settle for a pair of mirrors that bear some resemblance to what was on the Fiero. Thanks, Bart

Absolutely amazing - an incredible model! Bart

Thanks for the suggestion, Alan! The body and windows are shiny and smooth to the touch, so I do not think it was caused by being around a heavy smoker. Wondering if you know of a technique to remove tobacco stains. I might want to try that, even though I don't think that it the issue with may windows. Bart

I am looking the windows for a 1967 through 1969 AMT 1/25th scale T-Bird. I bought a promo model of it through an online auction, but the windows have a very noticeable yellow tint to them. This is also true of the body that has gone from a whitish color to a very yellow now. I am assuming that this is a result of exposure to light or less than desirable storage for 50+ years. I am trying the retrobright technique to remove the yellowing on the windows. First attempt was with 3% hydrogen peroxide and 7 hours of sunlight - some improvement, but not enough. Will do this again to see if it just needs more time. Finally, if needed, I'd try a stronger solution solution like 30-40% from a beauty supply store. Figured I ask to see if anyone had a set of good, clear windows - which would save me from the retrobright process (which might not even help!). Thanks, Bart

Thanks for the ideas, Steve! The model has never been disassembled - I can tell that because the posts that hold the interior to the body are still "melted" down against the interior tub. So, I don't think clear would have been sprayed on the glass. Plus, the glass and body are absolutely smooth and slick to the touch. The funny car would be a good source for the glass, but buying the whole kit for one item isn't cost effective for me to do. I'll wait to see what ideas others might have, and will report back on my results! Bart

Gary, Thanks for the idea. A couple of questions for you: Do you let it submerge it and let it sit in the peroxide for a while, or do you just brush it/rub it onto the surface. How long do you let it come into contact with the peroxide? What could be used to seal it? Bart

Thanks, Pete! I will be disassembling it next week and was planning to check the strips that go from the front to the back to see if they had the same issue. It will be interesting to see what I find, and whether scraping it has any effect! Bart