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Dave, Here are a few photos of one I built many years ago. I used a Testor's color that was available at that time that I thought looked like the color on the box; I think it might have been Turquoise. I built it straight out of the box without doing any of the extra work you are doing on yours. I will be following this thread to see how yours turns out! Bart

Looks great!

Here is my latest completion/restoration. - a 1967 Ford Mustang fastback that I got back in 1967 as a pre-assembled model that was molded in yellow plastic. Some pictures of it in its original yellow are included. I removed the decals and stripped the black paint from the interior. The rear panel between the lights had a ribbed panel that was part of an Exterior Decor group, but the ribs were not accurate for the fastback. You'll see on one of the yellow pictures that the ribs dip down in the middle; this would be accurate for the hardtop and convertible as they followed the lines of the trunk lid. The ribs on the fastback should go straight across without any dip. It took a bit of work, but I managed to remove the ribs. The panel under the front bumper does not fit that well; that was true on the original model so I did not try to improve on the way that it fit. I repainted and detailed the interior, and used Tamiya's Bright Red for the exterior color. Thanks for looking! Bart The restored/renovated model (in red) What it originally looked like when I got it in 1967

You might want to consider creating these yourself and printing them on decal paper on a LaserJet printer. If you don't have one, any office supply store or FedEx Office can print them for you. I have done a number of decals for kits and they have worked out well. Since the police cars are white, that also works in your favor since most printers cannot print the color white. Any areas on the decals that would need to be white will be clear and will show the white body color through them. Get photos that are straight on of the sides, front and back of the car to avoid any skewing of the markings. The highest quality photos will also help. Size them to the correct size for the model. Use a photo editor to size them and to remove any areas that don't need to print. Also, fill your 8 x 11 decal sheet with as many decals as you can. It doesn't hurt to have multiples of each decal in case you run into any issues when applying them. It doesn't cost any more to fill the entire sheet with decals! Here is a car I printed decals for so you have an idea of what can be done. The phone numbers and website info that appears as white is actually clear on the decals and the white body color is being seen. Feel free to ask any questions you might have! Bart

Here are some of my Mustangs! I have owned 5 Mustangs during the years. Started with a 66 Hardtop, and currently have a 2007 convertible. Thanks, Bart

Looks great!

Thanks! My magnifier light helps a lot, too. Glad that my hands are still steady, too! Bart

Yes, all of the cars in the group photo were all 3-D prints, and were all painted by me. Bart

Here is my latest completion - a 3-D printed N Scale (1/160) Jaguar XKE. This replicates a car owned by my brother Bob - who is also into RC airplanes and plastic model building. You'll see that he has his own Hobby Shop on my layout. Painting the details on a black vehicle was a little challenging. I usually use the shadows from the raised details to know where they are - but on a black car, the shadows are non-existent! I also included photos of the actual 1:1 scale car, and a shot with other 3-D printed cars on my layout. Thanks for looking! Bart

Simply amazing! Great work!

Andrew, You need to use only a little bit of retarder. Tamiya's website suggests the mix ratio is 10-1 (10 Paint – 1 Retarder). However, I am not as scientific about it. I usually put a little paint in a soda or water bottle plastic cap, and then add a drop or two of retarder and mix it together. If it still seems to be too thick to work with, I'll add another drop or two. Bart

As others have mentioned, use a Retarder. I use the Tamiya one. Makes a big difference - the paint flows on much better and doesn't dry as fast. I was originally not a big fan of Tamiya acrylics - until I started using their retarder which changed my whole experience. Painting over Primer is also advised. Bart

Found this article on the 1949 (yes - 1949!) Mustang. Thought people might find it interesting! https://www.macsmotorcitygarage.com/a-whale-of-a-car-the-1949-mustang/

That's a really nice looking model. I wish someone would have made a nice plastic kit of the Mustang I. The Automodelo version is a little out of my price range! Bart

Looks great!

A very interesting model. Something you don't see every day!

Exceptional work!

Very nice!

Very nice builds! I have learned a lot from this forum that has improved my model building skills - and you will, too! Bart

Here is my latest build - a 1957 Chevy Bel Air. This is the Revell 1/25 scale Snap-Kit. Exterior color is Tamiya TS-60 Pearl Green. Interior was done with Craft Paints (I think it was Cactus Green). I had done the Chevy scripts on the hood and trunk using the foil under paint method. Got the paint removed and the chrome exposed, and then realized that the scripts should be gold. So, the gold scripts on the hood, trunk, and rear sides were all hand painted. The Chevy logo in the front grill is from a photo that I cleaned up in Photoshop and printed on my computer. Dash gauges were also printed from photos that were cleaned up in Photoshop. Thanks for checking this out! Bart

I totally agree! When I would use Testor's Silver for something, it would usually be for exterior door handles and key holes, interior trim and window handles, chrome trim around windows, and other small details. I also agree that it takes a long time to totally dry, if ever. It's just one of the tools in my arsenal and I use it where it seems appropriate. The chrome pens may end up getting used in place of Testor's silver sometimes since it seems to dry pretty well. Bart

I bought some of the Zoet chrome pens that the original poster mentioned to see how they worked. Here is my unprofessional analysis (Note: I am not a scientist or an expert on this stuff!). It is VERY shiny! It does lose its shine and smudge a bit when rubbed very aggressively with your finger. Please note that you have to rub very hard and multiple times to degrade it, so it might be able to stand up to normal handling. It is a little darker than Bare Metal Foil I was surprised to see that Testor's silver and the Chrome Pen are actually very similar. Tamiya TS-13 clear did cause it to lose its shine. It also causes Testor's silver to lose its shine. Overall, I was pleased with the results, but I would definitely use it only after clear has been applied to the model. My primary uses for it will probably be to touch up chrome parts where the sprue had been attached, fill in any gaps I might have on areas that were foiled, and to apply chrome the vent windows on 50's and 60's vehicles ( i find it very difficult to foil these areas well). I am sure I will find other places to use these, too. I was surprised at how well Testor's Silver compared to it. I think I had always put Testor's silver on before the clear coats were applied which definitely dulled it down. I may now try using Testor's after the clear coats are on to see how that looks and how that holds up to handling. Thanks, Bart Here are the photos of my results. I found that it is hard to get good pictures that duplicate what you see in person and show how shiny this stuff is.

Great work. Looks good! Bart

Thanks! The display base is an item called a Wood Canvas that I picked up at Hobby Lobby for a couple of bucks. The dimensions are roughly 13" wide x 10" deep x 1/2" thick. They also have some that are about 8" x 10". A nice ready-made base with enough room under it for the battery holder. Just needed a coat of paint and it was pretty much ready. Bart

David, The kit includes the details for the opening floor panel and the opening rear access panel. The drop down panel in the rear is done with decals provided in the kit, and the inside details for that area were mostly painted. With the rear access panel, there is no hinge provided to allow you to open and close it. So, you are supposed to either glue it in place in the open or closed position. I couldn't figure out how make a hinge for it. Luckily my kit had two of these panels; one had a slight defect in it, so Polar Lights provided a replacement in the box (really appreciate their Quality Control process to catch this!). The one that is used for the closed position uses a small magnet on the back side to hold it in place on the body. Thanks, Bart