bh1701

Looks good! I can smell the onions on the sliders right now! Bart

This is something quite a bit different from my usual car and science fiction models. I scratch built this HO scale model of Dallas Union Station for a friend who has a Free-Mo module that represents the station and the surrounding tracks in the 1950's. The model measures about 19" x 38". I created images of all of the exterior walls using my Photoshop skills and had them printed on heavy weight paper at my local Fed Ex Printing shop. The images were glued to 1/16" plastic sheets that were then glued to an interior wood framework that is attached to plywood bases. It's built in 4 sections for easier storage and transportation. Some of the more creative aspects of this model are the urns that are by the front balcony. These are doll house Coke bottles painted white and flipped over. The columns are 5-inch fluted wood dowels, O-Rings, and small plastic square tiles on the top and bottom. The canopy that extends out from the side of the building uses necklaces and pins from Hobby Lobby; the canopy is removeable to protect it from damage while being transported or stored. Balusters along the top edges of the walls were 3-D plastic prints. Roof material is a gray art paper from Hobby Lobby. Roof details are from a Walthers roof detail set. Thanks for checking this out! The wood framework that supports the walls. The 4 sections that make up the station. Doll house coke bottles Coke bottles painted white and flipped over to become some urns for the front of the station. Columns are made with fluted wood dowels, O-Rings, and square pieces on top and bottom. Finished columns and urns installed. Canopy with necklaces for the chains. Roofs removed to show interior and clamps that attach sections together.

Very clever! Great looking model! Bart

Stunning build!\

David, The Thunderbird script is just chrome paint. The black highlights you see around the letters are actual real-life shadows that my camera captured. On the dash, I did use black wash to accent the air vents, heater / AC control panel, radio and other details. When I look at my photos, the dashboard always amazes me at how well it turned out. I even surprise myself sometimes! Bart

Thanks everyone for the comments! Bob, I, too, was amazed at how well that script came out. ☺️ To be honest, I think it was a combination of a brush and a sharpened toothpick. Bart

I purchased this online recently. It is an AMT promo model of the 1967 Ford Thunderbird. The model had a couple of issues with it. The front passenger window frame was missing a section, and the plastic windows had yellowed badly. I used plastic strips and putty to repair the window frame. I tried several techniques to remove the yellowing from the windows, but none of them worked. So I created new windows using clear plastic sheets. The color is Tamiya TS-75 Champagne Gold. I was trying to get a color similar to the Sauterne Gold that was offered that year. The rocker panels are done with Bare Metal foil. I hand-painted the Thunderbird script, emblems and window frames using Zoet Chrome markers. I press the tip of the marker several times on a scrap piece of plastic to get a wet blob of the chrome paint, and then apply it using a fine paint brush. It is a nice addition to my many Thunderbird models. Thanks for looking! Bart Broken window frame Yellowed glass Repairing the broken window frame

That's absolutely amazing! Wish I had some of your skills. Adding LED lighting on my Galileo 7 shuttlecraft was pushing my skills to the limit for me! Bart

I use an old Tic-Tac container for my used #11 blades. Pop the lid, drop the blade in, and close it. Works well! I like everyone else's ideas, too! Bart

Wondering if anyone has the side mirrors from any of the MPC Fiero kits? At a minimum, I need the side mirror for the driver's door. If someone had both the driver and passenger mirrors, that would be even better! I even settle for a pair of mirrors that bear some resemblance to what was on the Fiero. Thanks, Bart

Absolutely amazing - an incredible model! Bart

Thanks for the suggestion, Alan! The body and windows are shiny and smooth to the touch, so I do not think it was caused by being around a heavy smoker. Wondering if you know of a technique to remove tobacco stains. I might want to try that, even though I don't think that it the issue with may windows. Bart

I am looking the windows for a 1967 through 1969 AMT 1/25th scale T-Bird. I bought a promo model of it through an online auction, but the windows have a very noticeable yellow tint to them. This is also true of the body that has gone from a whitish color to a very yellow now. I am assuming that this is a result of exposure to light or less than desirable storage for 50+ years. I am trying the retrobright technique to remove the yellowing on the windows. First attempt was with 3% hydrogen peroxide and 7 hours of sunlight - some improvement, but not enough. Will do this again to see if it just needs more time. Finally, if needed, I'd try a stronger solution solution like 30-40% from a beauty supply store. Figured I ask to see if anyone had a set of good, clear windows - which would save me from the retrobright process (which might not even help!). Thanks, Bart

Thanks for the ideas, Steve! The model has never been disassembled - I can tell that because the posts that hold the interior to the body are still "melted" down against the interior tub. So, I don't think clear would have been sprayed on the glass. Plus, the glass and body are absolutely smooth and slick to the touch. The funny car would be a good source for the glass, but buying the whole kit for one item isn't cost effective for me to do. I'll wait to see what ideas others might have, and will report back on my results! Bart

Gary, Thanks for the idea. A couple of questions for you: Do you let it submerge it and let it sit in the peroxide for a while, or do you just brush it/rub it onto the surface. How long do you let it come into contact with the peroxide? What could be used to seal it? Bart

Thanks, Pete! I will be disassembling it next week and was planning to check the strips that go from the front to the back to see if they had the same issue. It will be interesting to see what I find, and whether scraping it has any effect! Bart

I wanted to add some clarification to my post. When I said that the window has a yellowish tint to it, I did not mean to suggest that something had been applied to the window to create this effect. It appears to me that the clear plastic has been taken on a yellowish color. Not sure if this would be due to age - like how old decal sheets can turn yellow. I have never seen this before. I have other model kits that are years older than this one, and none of them exhibit this condition. Thanks, Bart

Bill, Yes, I will be taking it apart to paint the exterior and interior. My favorite paint remover is Easy Off Oven Cleaner (NOT the Low Fumes version since I don't think that works as well ). Do you think that would work, or do you have other suggestions for a cleaner/stripper to use? I think it would also probably be wise to test whatever cleaner/stripper I plan to use on a spare windshield first to be sure there is no adverse reaction. Bart

I bought a 67 Thunderbird promo in an online auction the other day. I received it today and noticed that the windows are not clear. Instead, they appear to have a yellowish tint to them. Not sure if this is just due to age ( it is almost 60 years old!) or how it was stored over the years. Also thought it could have been in the home of a smoker and that it was a tobacco film (although I get no odor of smoke from it), but the rest of the car shows no similar symptoms. I tried using a plastic cleaner on it, but that didn't help. Wondering if anyone has any ideas if this can be fixed? I will be painting the model in a champagne gold, so the yellowish/gold tint on the windows may not look that bad! Thanks, Bart

David, That color looks great! Bart

I have some stainless steel chain (actually an inexpensive necklace from Hobby Lobby) that I am using with a modeling project. Any suggestions on how to blacken it? I've got less than 3 feet of chain to blacken, so I need something that won't break the bank! Thanks, Bart

Very nicely done. The Teal color looks really sharp!

David, This popped up in my Facebook feed today. Thought I'd send it along. This is more than likely a replica Futura and not the original. I think the color you had on the dashboard in this thread should work just fine on your model. Bart

Dave, Here are a few photos of one I built many years ago. I used a Testor's color that was available at that time that I thought looked like the color on the box; I think it might have been Turquoise. I built it straight out of the box without doing any of the extra work you are doing on yours. I will be following this thread to see how yours turns out! Bart

Looks great!