DoctorLarry

Tamiya AS-20 Insignia White is a nice matte light gray that shows detail when used on chassis. It is one of their aircraft colors but looks good for chassis.

If you have an airbrush, use really thick paint and set the air pressure so it will just spray out and it should splatter quite well. As an alternative, Rust Oleum makes texture paint that will produce an uneven finish. Use more distance and it should look fine.

Thanks, guys. I have done custom painting since I was a teenager and so have experience with interactions (mostly lacquer-enamel or urethane-enamel). Since this is basically an ammonia-based acrylic from what I have read, it would seem the interactions would be from the ammonia and not the acrylic because the acrylic should be pretty benign over cured enamels or lacquers. I rarely use water based finishes on stuff so I could see some issues if used over acrylics but maybe not.

Thanks, Peter. I read both the post and Swannie's site. Like you, I was trying to see what the latest millennial version of the acrylic finish was so I did not inadvertently dump floor stripper on a freshly painted body. It was more about the proper version of the finish (which took 3 different store outings to find) than how to use it. But thanks for the tip!

I'm going to get one. My understanding is that if you don't de-gas the mold rubber you will get bubbles showing up anyway. I will try it out and see.

Sweet!

Is Perry's Resins still operating? They have a website but it appears to be archived. I probably missed the boat on this one but anybody know?

The Future thread posted here says that bottle label was circa 2015. The one I posted I just bought so I'll do as you say. Larry

How old is that bottle, Mark? It may have been re-branded again. LB

Thanks, Mike. I'm not really a big NASCAR guy either but I love building the vintage cars. Much more interesting than today. I love researching the builds as much as the builds themselves, particularly interesting unheard of guys.

I need to build a pot to do that in. Did you vacuum the mold rubber first?

Forgot the steering wheel and window net!

Top side is almost done. Got the harness done (real pain in the neck). seat mounted, engine detailing done. Got a driveshaft made and installed. Final details are shroud, air cleaner, headers and exhaust then ready for body fitting.

Gerald, are you pressure casting these?

Heat shrink tubing split with scissors. I have also taken an old computer power cord and stripped off the insulation. Either looks good.

Almost done. Engine wired/plumbed. I need to do exhaust, fuel line to the tank, install the seat and make the harness and window net.

Great-I will find a car to test it on.

It says to clean the floor and let it dry then spread this out with a clean sponge mop or cloth and let it dry. I'll try to find a test dummy.

Anybody use Future as a clear coat? I can't seem to find it. This is the closest I have found but don't know if it is the right stuff everyone uses. Any help?

Send me a message.

Where do you get your supplies?

You going to make the molds and do it all? That will be cool.

More work done. Mounted the radiator, finished the front shocks and framing for them, plumbed the rear end and oil cooler and plumbed the puke tank. Put some roll bar padding on and mounted the shifter. Mocked the seat up and mounted the headrest, which came from a later NASCAR kit. Put the valve stems in the wheels and painted them the correct color.

You going to cast them? Looks good!

Preliminary wiring/plumbing check list: plug wires, fuel line pump to carb, fuel line tank to pump, all brake lines, battery cables, 2 scavenge lines oil pan to dry sump pump, two lines dry sump pump to oil tank, feed line oil tank to cooler, cooler line to remote oil filter, remote oil filter to dry sump pump, dry sump pump to oil filter plate inlet. Whew! Did I miss anything?