DoctorLarry

You could also probably use aluminum foil tape used for heat and air conditioning ducts. It is pretty shiny, though but it does have adhesive and cuts with scissors. I use that for all kinds of stuff.

Don MacTavish

I had the chassis photos from the same place posted earlier in the thread.

The photos, like Tim said, tell the story. The top two were from Nichels. One is a Plymouth Road Runner (unit body) and the other a Pontiac GTO (full frame). The Plymouth has reinforcements in the rocker area to strengthen the unit body and the GTO has a front clip welded to the factory frame. The last picture was from a California chassis shop (Stock Car Products, I believe) in 1973 and you can see all of the elements of a "clipped" full frame: reinforced factory Chevelle frame, Ford Galaxie based front clip and Chevy truck arm rear suspension.

Here are two vintage late 60's early 70's pictures, one Chrysler one modified GM:

Rickey Rudd 1987 T Bird if it helps:

Very clean build.

Make that an earlier model.

A later version with some specs. From the book Classic Stock Cars by Dr. John Craft.

This was a restored car and they look a lot more "finished" than the other ones, which were pretty rough looking.

I have a Petty kit here (I forgot I had one!). When I get Gerald's oil pan I will put the 429 in the Polar Lights chassis and see if I can re-create the Pearson headers. Can't be much harder than the 180 degree headers I made for my Adams Grand Am project. Then I will see if I can make a passable casting of them (probably in 2 or 3 pieces). Tim and Gerald, are you interested?

Are the Petty and Pearson Polar Lights kits the same?

Pearson Torino. Different collectors but same concept. Flat against the floor pan. Does anyone make a similar vintage NASCAR Torino kit?

I found an earlier post about him. Seems to be in and out of modeling and not too easy to find so I guess I'll have to make my own now.

Actually it was a random resin I bought off EBAY. It was warped and I straightened it out and heavily modified it. Most of them are based off a JoHan Cutlass or a 1/24 diecast, I suspect. SMH Resins 77 Cutlass is too wide and the proportions are not the same as the Salvino Cutlass or JoHan so I suspect someone mastered it from a 1/24 diecast.

Web address or contact info?

Got the car repainted. Put the striping tape on and cleared it. Decals are on and I have a few things to do yet, Exhaust, breathers, battery wiring and windows. I also need to re-paint and install the bumpers. I need some advice on windows. Do you all use kit windows or make them for resin bodies?

Maybe someone has an extra set laying around.

I wonder if you could make a mold and cast the headers in resin. Just a thought, Gerald.

Evidently SMH has not updated their web site in awhile. They refunded my money. Guess I stick with the ones I have.

SMH Resins had them. Mike's Decals sold out. Ordered 2 sets.

Went to the web site. Sold out. Hopefully the body is as popular as the decals! Tim or Gerald, do you have any more pictures of the livery on the car? Thanks!

What color is the pinstripe, Tim? Do you know?

Here's the rest of the package. Colors (courtesy of Jason's suggestion) and Slot Car Fever decals.

Folks ran the 77 Century in NASCAR in two body forms: the fastback (same roof as the Laguna and 77 Cutlass) and the "formal" V window form (Century, Cutlass, Monte Carlo). GM A bodies of the Collonade era used a lot of parts across models for cost savings. Floor pans, firewalls, roofs and sometimes door skins (77 Century and 77 Cutlass). Probably the most recognizable formal roofline car was the one Dale Earnhardt ran. I took my first casting from my Century mold and grafted a Revell Monte Carlo roof onto it. This will be the Earnhardt Number 2 formal roof car. Gerald likes this one.